Surfing thread? Surfing thread.

13878990:strayln_Skier said:
Yeah aye. Wind is a bit southerly though. My local is in need of a south swell cos the banks are shit as.

Snapper Rocks to Kirra is FIRING. Just had a sick morning surf and going back out at low tide this afternoon
 
13878962:DrZoidberg said:
Likewise, but in east coast USA. Although it hasn't been totally flat here. We had that winter storm that made the slush wave clips and pictures which are circulating throughout surf media. Does it even get cold there? Like 5mm suit, hood, mittens, boots, ice chunks in the water cold? Or is it like "warm climate" cold?

bruh its summer in the southern hemisphere... waters 25 degrees. googled it and thats 77 degrees for you non metric users
 
13880129:NPF said:
Snapper Rocks to Kirra is FIRING. Just had a sick morning surf and going back out at low tide this afternoon

Fuck you. haha, it's pretty raw down here in Wollongong. A lot of novelty spots are working.
 
13880129:NPF said:
Snapper Rocks to Kirra is FIRING. Just had a sick morning surf and going back out at low tide this afternoon

Do you live up there or on holiday? I've just had a look of the surfcam it's definitely not pumping for snappers standard. Wait until you see it on an east swell. Though going out on lower tide is a good idea it will be churning on that bank more.

Crowded as fuck.
 
13880143:strayln_Skier said:
Do you live up there or on holiday? I've just had a look of the surfcam it's definitely not pumping for snappers standard. Wait until you see it on an east swell. Though going out on lower tide is a good idea it will be churning on that bank more.

Crowded as fuck.

truu i honestly didnt even bother with snapper or rainbow today. paddled there for like two hours yesterday and got dropped in on the only wave i managed to catch. went in and went to kirra, same size waves and got 3 good ones. there was like 10 of us out there haha. guys were getting shacked this morning at kirra on the outer break at high tide. hoping low is gonna be good. was just gonna be a holiday at first, but im probably gonna stay at least a year.
 
13880180:NPF said:
truu i honestly didnt even bother with snapper or rainbow today. paddled there for like two hours yesterday and got dropped in on the only wave i managed to catch. went in and went to kirra, same size waves and got 3 good ones. there was like 10 of us out there haha. guys were getting shacked this morning at kirra on the outer break at high tide. hoping low is gonna be good. was just gonna be a holiday at first, but im probably gonna stay at least a year.

Nice. When out snapper- get your mongrel on, sit deeper, paddle harder. I look for the double ups that break right near the rock.

Being there for a year will be great for your surfing, you kind of get into the swing of things and can negotiate the crowds well and jag a few sicks ones.
 
After a long dry spell, got to use my new 5mil this weekend... Long Island, NY had great conditions Friday through Monday.
 
I got sun fried as fuck today. One of those sessions where you just stay out until hunger, exhaustion, dead arms, sunburn tells you it's about time to go in. Well worth it though- really fun wedgy little bank.
 
13880689:strayln_Skier said:
I got sun fried as fuck today. One of those sessions where you just stay out until hunger, exhaustion, dead arms, sunburn tells you it's about time to go in. Well worth it though- really fun wedgy little bank.

me today.
 
13880396:first_rodeo said:
After a long dry spell, got to use my new 5mil this weekend... Long Island, NY had great conditions Friday through Monday.

It was... Interesting here in NJ. I didn't go saturday but it was pretty big looking. I heard the currents were extreme and most people just ate shit on huge closeouts, then paddled in cold and exhausted. Saw some clips of people getting rideable waves though. I was gonna get the leftovers on sunday but of course the winds went bad and it was like twenty degrees. And it's been fun more or less all week here but I missed it all since work and stuff.

Can't wait till it's not dark at 4:30pm.
 
Some decent swell in Santa Cruz today. I didn't go out but killed some time drinking and spectating. Hoping we get aome fucking snow in tahoe
 
Went for a drive yesterday down the south coast of NSW Australia. Forecast was only 4-5 ft but I rocked up to check this slab I thought I may try to surf but it was more like 10 foot. There was a crew surfing this reef over from it on big step up boards it was boming easily the biggest waves I've seen surfed in real life.
 
13881494:theabortionator said:
Some decent swell in Santa Cruz today. I didn't go out but killed some time drinking and spectating. Hoping we get aome fucking snow in tahoe

Santa Cruz is pretty far from the 'Dacks
 
Hey, pretty new to surfing here. I just spent a month surfing on the North coast of the Dominican Republic, a month at Playa Colorado in Nicaragua and now spending a month surfing in Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica. I'm hooked! Seriously ready to give up all my life's belongings and move to somewhere I can do this full time.

Anyway, I just bought this board in Costa Rica for $200. Wondering if I got ripped off or was this a fair price? I don't really have enough experience to gauge these things yet. Is this a decent board for an intermediate surfer. I have been surfing 7 foot plus boards the past two months and really looking for something faster and makes quicker turns.

The board is a Alves Design 6'0" x 19 1/2" x 2 3/4"

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13888291:Loco-Deer-Slayer said:
Hey, pretty new to surfing here. I just spent a month surfing on the North coast of the Dominican Republic, a month at Playa Colorado in Nicaragua and now spending a month surfing in Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica. I'm hooked! Seriously ready to give up all my life's belongings and move to somewhere I can do this full time.

Anyway, I just bought this board in Costa Rica for $200. Wondering if I got ripped off or was this a fair price? I don't really have enough experience to gauge these things yet. Is this a decent board for an intermediate surfer. I have been surfing 7 foot plus boards the past two months and really looking for something faster and makes quicker turns.

The board is a Alves Design 6'0" x 19 1/2" x 2 3/4"

View attachment 892684

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View attachment 892682

Yeah mate, keep getting into it!

That board is fine, $200 yeah nah I dunno its probably a decent price. Cheeper than a fresh stick thats for sure!
 
13888291:Loco-Deer-Slayer said:
Hey, pretty new to surfing here. I just spent a month surfing on the North coast of the Dominican Republic, a month at Playa Colorado in Nicaragua and now spending a month surfing in Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica. I'm hooked! Seriously ready to give up all my life's belongings and move to somewhere I can do this full time.

As long as it's not super rockered out you should be fine in anything that isn't completely gutless or longboard only waves. It looks like the stringer on the deck is high based on the shadows and the way the vector net bends, so just watch that area for cracks forming, especially if it's poly, which it probably is.
 
Waves have been fun in oz. Heres me running over my photographer and giving him the finger while i'm at it.

[video]https://vimeo.com/256558907[/video]
 
why i keep going to rainbow to surf when i know kirra will have half the people i will never know. i need to get a kirra tattoo or some shit as a reminder... got ran over twice at rainbow the other day. my board got pretty fucked :'( 894926.jpeg894925.jpeg
 
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Today, in Maine. Can't remember the last time I saw waves this big here.
 
It's been insane here in jersey. And daylight savings is soon too, so I should be able to start going after work again.

13901058:hotdog. said:
Anyone here based in New England and shape boards? In desperate need of a basic shaping course as I am good with my hands and think it would be super fun to get into.

I'm not that far north but I currently ride an entirely self shaped quiver. Done 7 boards thus far. It is quite fun. I'd do more if I had space to keep boards. Grain has a wooden board shaping class, although I'm not one for wooden boards. A class is nice because somebody can help you shape something you might not try on your own, or do well on your own first try. I would talk to shops or shapers up there. They might be willing to show you some stuff if you clean the dust off their shop floor if there's no proper class.
 
About to move to Vancouver Island for 8 months! threads for later because I'm sure to pick surfing up a lot more
 
13901764:hotdog. said:
Its been firing the whole coast.

Theres a couple guys in RI i've talked to but basically no one wants to deal with the hassle. I think shaping something that "would go" would be pretty easy, I just want to make something solid and interesting and not make "beginner" mistakes if I can.

Concaves and volume honestly are the only things that I'm intimidated by.

Do you hand shape? or do you have shape3d files cut?

All by hand in my garage, start to finish.

Have a look at blending curves. They've got nice templates. Small wave boards are a good place to start and a lot of people go for a glass on twin keel fish for their first. They work decent without much concave or just flat. Mini simms are common first boards too. You'll get a lot of opinions though. I like concave. It's not too difficult. Go slow, use hand tools, have proper lighting. That's the key. Worry about rocker the most. Bad rocker will ruin a board quicker than anything else. Choosing the right blank is key so you don't have to extensively modify the rocker, which is hard as a beginner. The third version of my small wave board used a new blank that wasn't available for V1 or V2, and V3 is so much better.

Volume is blown out of proportion in my opinion. Yes, it's important, but people who choose solely on volume are misguided. Volume is a product of the other parameters; foil, rocker, concave, rails etc... Two boards can be 30 liters, but one can have a razor thin tail and thicker mid section while the other can have a more even distribution. They'll surf differently, so just seeing they're both 30L tells you nothing. Achieving a good foam distribution is more important than nailing 28.1363849L rather than 29L. In fact a common noob mistake is poor foiling. I did it on my first. The tail was too thick and that hurts performance. You're gonna notice errant foiling more than an extra liter or two.
 
had a fun river surf session today up in the clark fork. got a week lined up in puerta vallarta and reserved an 8 foot longboard, if the waves are good enough i might get a shorty and try it out.
 
Been surfing my dads longboard a lot lately. so fun trying to walk around haha

Quicky pro has been pretty fun to watch! Mikey Wright what an upset
 
13903672:NPF said:
Been surfing my dads longboard a lot lately. so fun trying to walk around haha

Quicky pro has been pretty fun to watch! Mikey Wright what an upset

Mikey was just getting back at him from last year when he should of beat john john but got ripped off

**This post was edited on Mar 13th 2018 at 5:02:10am
 
13903678:strayln_Skier said:
Mikey was just getting back at him from last year when he should of beat john john but got ripped off

**This post was edited on Mar 13th 2018 at 5:02:10am

Shame the tide was all fucky for their heat, wouldve been sick
 
13904100:DrZoidberg said:
I want to see Mikey go all the way. This Michael Rodrigues kid seems pretty good too.

So bummed :( he couldnt a wave this heat, oh well at least he lost to ace/filipe and beat fucking medina
 
13904363:hotdog. said:
A super foiled out rail for example is going to look awesome and feel really good under my arm, but I dont want to get overly fine tuned and end up with a super sleak board that doesnt have the sufficient float for me ya know. Sure it may work for a smaller guy/someone else, but I want something for my oversized ass.

Super foiled rails still can support you though if you have enough volume under your chest. One of my logs is super thin and foiled, granted it is a log, but it still floats me and paddles me as well as my noserider with big fat rails because of the volume through the middle of the log
 
13904363:hotdog. said:
I'm thinking I'm going to use those templates, but I'm going to cut them out of blanks that already more or less have the rocker profile I'm looking for.

Again, getting a volume that will float me (not necessarily to an exact amount, just above a certain threshold) is what I'm concerned about.

A super foiled out rail for example is going to look awesome and feel really good under my arm, but I dont want to get overly fine tuned and end up with a super sleak board that doesnt have the sufficient float for me ya know. Sure it may work for a smaller guy/someone else, but I want something for my oversized ass.

It would be awesome if they provided thickness estimations for those outlines, because otherwise they seem great.

What area are you using for a shapers bay? I'll probably be stuck in a garage somewhere.

Garage. Tape plastic sheets from ceiling to floor to contain the mess. Put a tarp on the floor. A shaping rack is mandatory but easy to make from 10$ of 2x4s and some old carpet or something similar. I think they intentionally leave out thickness since they know it’ll vary. Study boards you like to understand their volume distribution.

And damn I was kinda hoping to see Colapinto go all the way if Mikey Wright wasn't. Ace v Julian isn't bad though.

**This post was edited on Mar 15th 2018 at 12:07:28am
 
13902110:roddy116 said:
had a fun river surf session today up in the clark fork. got a week lined up in puerta vallarta and reserved an 8 foot longboard, if the waves are good enough i might get a shorty and try it out.

Sick! Really wanna give riversurfing a good go this spring summer. Need to find some waves in the Bozeman area and beyond
 
13904712:Mr.Mitten said:
Sick! Really wanna give riversurfing a good go this spring summer. Need to find some waves in the Bozeman area and beyond

springdale can be kind of good, but sometimes its a little too flat not steep enough, and gardiner can be fun but the cfs window for the upper yellowstone is usually a pretty small time window.
 
13903678:strayln_Skier said:
Mikey was just getting back at him from last year when he should of beat john john but got ripped off

**This post was edited on Mar 13th 2018 at 5:02:10am

truuu I remember that. so stoked he beat medina too. Griffen was so fun to watch on the finals day, holy shit that kid ripped for having never surfed kirra hahaha Julian and Ace tore it up too, awesome finals. I filmed a bit most of the quarters and a bit of semis then I just wanted to watch and drink beer. ill hopefully put something together soon, gotta get the computer fixed tho!
 
13908418:NPF said:
truuu I remember that. so stoked he beat medina too. Griffen was so fun to watch on the finals day, holy shit that kid ripped for having never surfed kirra hahaha Julian and Ace tore it up too, awesome finals. I filmed a bit most of the quarters and a bit of semis then I just wanted to watch and drink beer. ill hopefully put something together soon, gotta get the computer fixed tho!

so sick
 
So did they miss a good swell at Bells/Winki or something? Seeing all these clips of like half the ct getting some nice looking waves. Should have started the event two days earlier.

Also it's more or less light enough long enough to surf after work now.
 
13909253:DrZoidberg said:
So did they miss a good swell at Bells/Winki or something? Seeing all these clips of like half the ct getting some nice looking waves. Should have started the event two days earlier.

Also it's more or less light enough long enough to surf after work now.

Ya i remember seeing someone post maybe julian or jordy saying "waves have been sick hope they stick around for the comp"
 
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