Unthreadworthy Thread

50mm f1.8 is all you need.

Canon_EF_50mm_18_II.JPG
 
Thinking abut buying a set of wireless triggers for my flash. I currently have the Canon 7d with the Canon 430ex flash and one really old flash that I will probably replace with a Yongnuo YN-568EX.. So my question is what wireless flash triggers should I get? I have mostly looked into the Vello FreeWave fusion. I would like to spend as little as possible, my max price including an extra receiver is $200. I really want to buy from b&h since I am going to order some other stuff from there anyways and I don't want to pay extra shipping..

Thanks!

 
I take it you don't need high speed sync/ttl?(that trigger doesn't have it). yongnuo rf-603's are basically identical(unless I'm missing something) and they're only $30 or so, and since the triggers and receivers are identical they can easily be used as triggers for the camera, and flash triggers, lots you can do with them.

If your 430ex already does high speed sync and has ttl why would you want the yn568 over the 560(also if you get the 560iii it has a built in receiver that works with the rf-603's, so you wouldn't need to buy an extra rf-603)
 
Thanks! Then I might order both the rf-603 trigger and a yn560 flash today or tomorrow. And high speed sync would be nice but I think I am going to use it mostly in bad lightning/night so its not a big deal.
 
Is not having to use an extra trigger the only advantage on the 560iii vs the 560ii? Because then I will just get an extra receiver and go with the 560ii.
 
Yeah I'm pretty sure it's the only advantage.

Why get the ii instead? An ii and a trigger costs more than an iii and you need to buy aaa batteries for the trigger, not to mention having to bring the extra thing with you plus the triggers themselves don't screw onto hotshoes, only slide on.
 
Well I suck at finding prices at ebay but as far as I can see the ii costs $68 and the iii costs $150. And since I am going to need triggers for my canon flash and it would be nice to be able to use the really old flash I have to I was going to buy a package with 4 flash triggers for $56. So 4 flash triggers plus the 560ii flash are going to cost $124 instead of buying the 560iii and a 3 pack with flash triggers for $200..

 
Most of the people here use a glidecam.. I wouldn't bother trying to make a glidecam, from what I have seen they usually ends up being a waste of money and time. You might want to try building a fig rig tho, they should be pretty cheap to make and I have seen people use them with good results. But of course all they do is give you a wider/ better grip so they cant compete with the glidecam.

And to Magnus yongnuo are out of stock with the 560iii flash so I think I will just get the 560ii, but that link you gave me was allot cheaper than the ebay prices I found so if I see that the iii flash comes in stock soon I will for sure order that instead.
 
Okay i talked with a guy at my local camera store and have narrowed it down to a t3i vs t4i. The t4 is 100 dollars more, but it has enhanced auto focus which would obviously be important for ski filming. Can anyone sway me?
 
you dont need autofocus for fiming. they are very similar cameras, might as well go cheaper
 
can anyone recommend me a decent nd filter? also, should i get a 77mm nd filter and a step up adapter? i want it for my 50mm (52mm filter thread)
 
Currently yes, I have the Tokina 11-16, trying to sell that though. I had just read it was better to buy a good filter and then be able to adapt to smaller filter thread sizes.
 
For something like an nd it's good to buy a larger filter that'll fit all your lenses you want to use it with, perhaps buy larger if you foresee larger lenses in the future. Although you have to factor in that your lens hoods won't work if you have to use stepupfilters.
 
It's definitely safe to buy filters big. I have a 77mm 1.2ND and 77mm faderND and i have 3 different set up rings to use lenses with smaller filters but I too have the 11-16 and so thats why i got the 77mm. It's safe to get a 77mm tho so you can use it on any lens in the future, some people get 82mm so they can use huge zoom lenses too.
 
Ok so I'll end up getting a 77mm filter i think. Any particular one that someone would recommend? Budget is preferably less than $100-150 and i think a 2 or 3 stop
 
Hoya, B+W, heliopan all good brands. The one I have is 1.2ND (4 stops) and its perfect for sunny days.
 
would anyone know why a t3i could stop reading sd cards that have been used with them before? is it a format error or something or did i hit the wrong botton.
 
Try reformatting the card to FAT32 even if it's currently in it. Also, does it read on your computer? I'm sure you tried, but if not, and a fail, could be a corrupt card.
 
will do. but with oher cards they will start doing the whole "camera has stopped recording."...thing. I know that means slow proccessing speed but it is doing it with cards that havent had a problem before
 
im filming skiing with my t3i for the first time tomorrow and have the settings at 720 and 60 fps, should i do anything with the iso or any other settings?
 
Okay, I know I already made an un-thread worthy thread looking for advice, but that was prior to finding this thread. Basically I'm just wondering what the bare bones minimum specs are of a laptop that will run CS6 and AE without issue.
 
Dual-Core Processor, 4 GB+ RAM, that's basically it.

However, After Effects is much more intensive than say something like Photoshop or Illustrator and you may have some trouble there.
 
Thanks, I've been torn as to whether I need a quad core or not, but a high speed i5 or i7 should work? And yeah, I'm looking for something with at least 8gb of ram and dedicated graphics
 
I fluently run the entire CS5.5 Master Collection on a stock HP laptop with a mid level AMD dual core that runs at about 2.8 ghz with an integrated graphics card
 
Scratch disks contribute most to speed.

Get some old Lacie D2's from ebay/craigslist (320GB) is plenty, Daisychain them together with FW800, make one big RAID disk and bam.

Speeeeeed.
 
don't get canon FD glass for modern canon (eos) cameras. The adpater has a piece of glass in it, creates a weird crop factor and makes your image softer. Stick with pretty much any other vintage lens for canon DSLRs.
 
what if i switch over to a gh2 and also what kind of vintage lens i dont know much about them other than they have the aperture ring on the outside and can be manually changed
 
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