Unthreadworthy Thread

It'll be even quicker. There are few comparisons floating around on YouTube with a normal 7200 HDD then a SSD next to it. The results are silly, even with 3+ year old hardware.
 
While we're on the subject of computers... If all my programs crash all the time for no apparent reason, and my hard drive isn't dying cause it would have been dead by now, would faulty ram be to blame? This is on a mac, 10.6.8, core 2 duo, 4gig ram. Smart status or whatever for the drive is verified, diagnostics show it's not failing (of course, real life says otherwise).

I recently made this computer dual boot with ubuntu and I don't have shit crashing on there all day, but I have to use it more to find out. The issue has existed before this dual boot thing.

Also I'm taking an art class, I'll get to learn about color theory at some point. Probably helpful for photos.
 
15 seconds to boot up? I don't need nearly that fast. I'd be fine if it took 5 minutes to boot up. I have a backup USB drive for everything, but Iv'e heard that using one drive for everything is really slow. Would getting a second one only speed up rendering and importing speeds, or would it help for the actual editing. That's all I care about since I can just leave it going overnight. I heard people say that having multiple drives seperately for everything (like 1 for media, 1 for exports/previews, 1 for a scratch drive, and then one for an os?), but how much would that actually speed stuff up? Do I really need a seperate drive for each different thing?

What would allow me to edit quicker? Right now I have a quad core amd phenom with 12gb of ram, 500gb 7200rpm HDD and a crappy amd graphics card. I'll hold off on the ssd for now since I don't care about boot times, but should I get a new gpu also? I was thinking of getting a gtx 650 ti or 660 for gaming, but that would also work with the CUDA acceleration with mercury playback engine, right?

I'd upgrade the cpu to an i7, but I don't need it to be that fast and I'd rather spend that money on better camera gear.
 
nahhh ha sorry i meant for a drive to wake up from sleep, i remember I had some old HDs that if left unattended and powered down, itd take so damn long for them to boot up.

That being said, my mbp probably does boot in 10-15 seconds.
 
So does anyone know? Is it worth it to have seperate hard drives for exports and scratch disks and everything?

And is the CUDA/Mercury Playback Engine acceleration worth it with the NVIDIA cards?
 
Scratch disks are lovely, I have a little army of LaCie D2's daisy chained to my FW800 port in Raid 0.

Speeds things up by a lot.

Also saves wear on my SSD's in my MacBook.
 
I mean, you should have a separate drive for all of your media anyway, running it off of your boot drive is never wise, that baby crashes everything is gone.

As for nvidia cards and cuda accell, it makes a HUGE different, if youre going to use adobe, do everything yuo can to have a nvidia card.
 
Looking through some photos this caught my eye, anybody know why this guy had what appears to be a sock on his flash? does it increase battery life? decrease charge time? or is it just a weird thing haha

sockki.jpg
 
I suppose, in theory, that could keep stuff warmer so the recycle time doesn't approach infinity. But in reality that will still get cold pretty fast. Can't think of any other reasons. Maybe it's just to protect it from snow or impact? I have no idea.
 
Self developing, anyone have any tips/tricks/links to get started/what to get/ etc?
 
What you need:

- Lighttight developing tanks

- Measuring cups

- Developer

- Fix

- Thermometer

- A TOTALLY dark place (preferably a shower. Put on the hot water first to filter all the dust out of the air)

- Film clips/paperclips to let your film dry

Optional is some wetting agent; not necessary, but better if you want to use the negatives in years to come.

Use this for your times:

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
 
The complete darkness is mostly just for loading the film into the tanks i assume?
 
So recharge time doesn't approach infinity? I wasn't aware there was a direct equation between temperature and recharge time that would slow it down that much, or do you mean the batteries having such a low power output at cold temps that they can't charge the capacitor(I'm assuming)?
 
Okay, so I'm trying to save for a sigma 70-200 f/2.8 os but I can get a used canon 70-200 f/4 non IS for 550 (which I have the money for now). I could then use the 500 I would have spent on the lens to put towards other stuff I could benefit from (decent tripod, more triggers & strobes) before eventually selling the f/4 to upgrade for close or on par to the same price I payed for it. Thoughts greatly appreciated.
 
Oh I'm with you there, but I also want it for other situations besides ski/surf. Although, picking up a Rokinon 85mm f/1.4 for concerts/event/portraits would do just as good or better in some cases as a 2.8 IS would, minus af of course. Is 550 a pretty good deal though or should I try for 500?
 
I'd take the canon, I'm more than happy with mine, it's perfect outdoors, and I'd hate it to be twice the weight. It's not gonna cut it indoors, but with a t2i I don't know if a 2.8 70-200 would either.
 
Yeah I figure for any indoor situations I'd rather be using a prime anyways. Is $550 a pretty good price though? Or should I try lower.

Also, with a bit of work in post t2i's aren't that bad in low light, I shot this at ISO6400:

8453742361_b15796c545.jpg


Not the best but not bad at all really
 
For a 70-200 f4 non is? It's not the best, try get it for 500, I got mine for 465 over here in Scotland and shits always more expensive here. And I really need to work on post processing noise, I think the way I'm currently doing it just blurs it to soften the noise. How do you do it?
 
Shit I'll definitely ask lower then. Or was the price you listed in pounds?

And what I'll usually do (assuming you use photoshop/lightroom) is in the sharpening section of camera raw, holding the alt key while using the masking slider, I make sure all sharpening is only applied to the subject & things before it. After the sharpening is where I want it, I play around with the noise reduction sliders until it looks all good and then maybe after apply a bit more sharpening. Then I'll open it where I'll filters>Noise>despeckle that bitch then maybe use the lasso tool to only select the subject & things before it and apply a lens blur smart sharpen to it. If it's really bad noise I'll use the noise sliders in camera raw until there's no noise at all, not paying attention to softness, then I'll save that as a .tiff. I'll then take the original unedited (in regards to noise) image and cut out all of the extremely noisy spots, usually only leaving subjects & other important to be sharp elements and line it up over-top of the noise reduced one. Only had to do that heavy duty technique once though. Camera raw 7 is really good at noise reduction, If you don't have it already and don't mind getting it through foul means I recommend it very highly for the noise reduction alone.
 
I got a good deal here (in America) for $440 on ebay somehow. I was watching these lenses for a few months, and this popped up. I wouldnt try and wait for something under $450, but pay no more than $500
 
Yeah I'll try, not really that hopeful though. It seems as though people here in Nova Scotia think the only place people buy gear are at overpriced places like Henry's & future shop so when they sell used gear for a few hundred less they think they're a saint or something.

Thanks for the help guys
 
Looking for an edit of Zac's. I think it was at Whistler Black Park and it was set to DL Incognito - Universal Love. Was posted in some thread for a recycled song contest I think... Would be stoked if someone could find it for me because I sure as hell can't...
 
someone tell me there t2i magic lantern settings for video ive been messing around with it but dont know if ive got it dialed in yet
 
For video I just use magic zoom and focus peaks if that's what you mean. The other stuff are great tools but not nearly as usable I find. I'm just in love with focus peaks, especially with vintage lenses.
 
thanks but i meant like what audio gain is the best for the rode videomic and what bit rate to shoot at on a 32 class 10 that wont have movie has stopped recording and all of those things
 
I've been shooting with my flycam a lot lately and I've rememberd how big of a pain it is to carry. With the camera on it, I can barely fit it in my backpack, but its a super tight fit and I have to unzip everything and squeeze it out every time I want to get a shot. How do you guys carry your glidecam/other stabilizers? Just like free hand? I feel sketched out on carrying it just in my hands on the lift since I could really easily drop it.Are there any backpacks/bags that fit glidecam/flycam/other stabilizars well that anyone has found? Another Idea I had was to get some way to attach/detach the camera strap more easily, so I could put that around my neck and be sure I won't drop it or anything.

TL;DR how do you guys carry your glidecams? As in on the lift/when not filming.
 
If a glidecam falls and the camera strap is attached to your neck that's like 3/4kg pulling down on the tripod mount, can't imagine it going well if there's a good distance to fall, and couldn't you just strap it onto the outside of your bag?
 
I've got a somewhat homemade glidecam that I made so you can take the head off of, separate the rod into 2 pieces, and remove the base plate from so it fits in my bag. Not all that necessary though, but quite useful if I don't know if I'll be doing follow cams or not.
 
I'm looking at getting a mic and have about $200-300 to spend. Has any one used both the sennheiser mke 400 mic and rode video mic pro, how did they compare and is the mke 400 noticeably smaller?

Are their any other small mics i should consider in this price range?
 
Everyone is ejaculating over the RØDE , too be honest they are pretty comparable, the RØDE does have a bit more natural sound, the Sennheiser sounds a bit thin.
 
Sorry, another stabilizer question.I've seen videos about balancing glidecams (or flycams or weildys or whatever), but each of them seemed to have different 'drop times', how long it takes for it to go from 90 degrees to straight up/down. Is there a 'right' way to do this? How long should it take? I've just kind of messed with it and found what I like, but there might be a better way to do it.

I think I might be doing something wrong with this because it's really susceptible to the wind or pretty much anything. If my left hand (that i use to turn it) slips or accidentally bumps it a little it will completely go off axis. Is it supposed to do this? I feel like it should be able to just stay in place more. Maybe I should add some more weights to it? I could try putting on a battery grip or an external mic maybe, and then adding to the bottom as well.

As far as stability goes right now its fine. I can quickly jolt it side to side and have it stay in the same position (indicating that its balanced on the top I think), and when I'm doing most follow cams or just walking around with it it stays stable. But when there's any sort of wind or anything pushing against it it drifts around and goes wherever, so I have to guide it and bring it back with my hand, which feels unnatural, or is that just what you have to do?

 
Stop being such a fairy and letting the wind blow your glidecam. Hold it like a man. I think around a 2 second drop time is average
 
Haha I correct it myself and stop it from being blown around, but it just seems like its drifting too much. Could just be that I'm not used to it though. Ah 2 second drop time. I'll try for that. Thx +k
 
Hello! A few questions...(sorry if these are dumb/readily answered I'm new to this whole game)

1. As a beginner what is a good/inexpensive lens for me to be using shooting biking/skiing.

2. When using a DSLR to followcam how do you keep the shot in focus without maintaining the same distance from the subject? Prime lens?

3. Can I get a decent mic for under $100?

Thanks in advance for any help!!!
 
Get the Canon 50mm f1.8, for a hundred bucks it's the by far the best deal in camera land. Doesn't matter what you plan to do, just get it.
 
2. Set it to a wide aperture like F8 and use a wider focal length lens, everything will be in focus. If you're shooting with say a 50mm lens then it will be a lot harder since you can't focus it.

3. I have an atr6550 mic and it works great. The rode mics are probably better but I've never used one so idk. It was $50 on amazon
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top