Surfing thread? Surfing thread.

[Rusticles]

We used to riversurf most days in the summer. We added some rocks to give ourselves a better eddy line into it. Then some flooding fucked our wave. Impossible to fix. As for building a wave from scratch. Quite difficult. There's a good video of some guys dropping a ramp in a narrow channel and tying it off with ropes. Worked sweet but needs a specific bit of water. Moving rocks is a useless endeavour. We've thought about dropping an old snow plow in a river or using those metal retaining baskets that you could fill with smaller rocks but they wouldn't wash away. Do it at low water and hope you do it right.

Building a wave is difficult. Even with hundreds of thousands at your disposal.

Yeah, I was kinda thinking it might be harder than it looks, did you pile your rocks in front of the wave or behind?

I have a couple budd's with concrete businesses and between us we have a few bobcats and big tractors, I was thinking of building a few concrete wedges and dropping them in the edge of a river where there is some decent flow.

 

[hemlockjibber8]

Yeah, I was kinda thinking it might be harder than it looks, did you pile your rocks in front of the wave or behind?

I have a couple budd's with concrete businesses and between us we have a few bobcats and big tractors, I was thinking of building a few concrete wedges and dropping them in the edge of a river where there is some decent flow.

Tried both. Look up how to make a wave. The physics is interesting. Most wave parks seem to be built by making a smooth concrete ramp that goes downhill then suddenly flattens out, this causes the water to accelerate and then jack up on the slower water in front of it. This seems to create more of a kayak style recirculating wave. I prefer a roller which I think is made from going over a rock. But it sometimes is actually the 1st wave behind the rock. I think it depends on how abrupt the rock or ramp is really. It's weird shit. Who knows.

I always thought throwing a road barrier in would work alright. just be aware of the rebar in the concrete and it's eventual protrusion from erosion.

 

[-Zimbo-]

anyone here kiteboard/kitesurf? im from ontario so surfing pretty hard here.... so i thought i would look into kiteboarding/surfing as a water sport for the summer... do any ns surf in ontario?

 

[Scotty_B]

Picked up my tax returns and turned them around for foam fins and resin. Have only surfed once but being in close proximity to the beach I figured what the hell. Currently Shaping a 6'6" Mini Simmons / Fish out of my dads shop. Pretty stoked to catch some waves this summer.

 

[steezysteeze]

Do you guys struggle with choosing a spot as much as I do? There are a decent amount of diverse spots local to me and I usually have a good idea which one will work best before I check but I can't help but check most of them before I finally settle. Yesterday I thought I had it all figured out until my drive back home I looked out to one of the point breaks visible from the road only to find a much better empty wave than the one I had just surfed. Sucks to suck, eh?

 

[Clamjunkies]

Is filipe toledo back for the oi rio pro? I was so bummed when he got injured, my money was on him for the world title.

 

[DrZoidberg]

Picked up my tax returns and turned them around for foam fins and resin. Have only surfed once but being in close proximity to the beach I figured what the hell. Currently Shaping a 6'6" Mini Simmons / Fish out of my dads shop. Pretty stoked to catch some waves this summer.

Six-six mini simms will be an oil tanker? Unless you're tall or heavy.

 

[S.J.W]

Is filipe toledo back for the oi rio pro? I was so bummed when he got injured, my money was on him for the world title.

Felipe can't win a world title. He has too many gaps in his game. Sure his air game is good, but his rail game is whack, same with surfing barrels and slabs. He has three events where he is a favourite, lowers, snapper and brasil. Everywhere else I would never have him in my fantsy.

But yeah, he's back for oi rio.

 

[Clamjunkies]

Felipe can't win a world title. He has too many gaps in his game. Sure his air game is good, but his rail game is whack, same with surfing barrels and slabs. He has three events where he is a favourite, lowers, snapper and brasil. Everywhere else I would never have him in my fantsy.

But yeah, he's back for oi rio.

He was fourth last year, so i think he would have had a chance at the world title if he didnt get injured. Especially now that wilko is in first, and no one is near him. At least he will be a very strong b pic for rio, im suprized hes not c by now.

 

[DrZoidberg]

I think Toldeo has improved his rail game significantly, or at least his fins free turns. Still waiting to see him in big, barreling teahupoo (if I even spelled that correctly) or something big and chunky like Margs was for some of the contest, or waves were you're not doing airs and quick fins free turns. At this rate he'll be skipping all those events though.

 

[S.J.W]

He was fourth last year, so i think he would have had a chance at the world title if he didnt get injured. Especially now that wilko is in first, and no one is near him. At least he will be a very strong b pic for rio, im suprized hes not c by now.

Like I said there's too many gaps in his game. Last year Felipe won three events. (more than anyone that year) But if you have a look at his other results, he has alot of round 3 losses and round 2 losses. That sort of inconsistency can't win world titles. Compare that to De souza last year who only won two events, but was constantly in the final or quarters. Felipe is a one trick wonder at the moment. You can't solely rely on three or four events to win you a world title.

 

[Clamjunkies]

Like I said there's too many gaps in his game. Last year Felipe won three events. (more than anyone that year) But if you have a look at his other results, he has alot of round 3 losses and round 2 losses. That sort of inconsistency can't win world titles. Compare that to De souza last year who only won two events, but was constantly in the final or quarters. Felipe is a one trick wonder at the moment. You can't solely rely on three or four events to win you a world title.

Im sure filipe could have done better then round 2 in franse, and a few others he was really colse on. I think he has it in him.

 

[gapersarefriends]

Like I said there's too many gaps in his game. Last year Felipe won three events. (more than anyone that year) But if you have a look at his other results, he has alot of round 3 losses and round 2 losses. That sort of inconsistency can't win world titles. Compare that to De souza last year who only won two events, but was constantly in the final or quarters. Felipe is a one trick wonder at the moment. You can't solely rely on three or four events to win you a world title.

I think he described his inconsistencies the most during the first tour notes this season when he said "this is the board i paddled out at teahupoo"

 

[S.J.W]

I think he described his inconsistencies the most during the first tour notes this season when he said "this is the board i paddled out at teahupoo"

It wasn't the board that fucked him at Teahupoo, it was his wrist or something. But the dude is having a kid, so he's either going to get freakishly good and focus. Or it will cause him some problems and fuck with his mind set. But I predict he will win his first world title in 2019. Dude needs to put on some weight.

 

[gapersarefriends]

It wasn't the board that fucked him at Teahupoo, it was his wrist or something. But the dude is having a kid, so he's either going to get freakishly good and focus. Or it will cause him some problems and fuck with his mind set. But I predict he will win his first world title in 2019. Dude needs to put on some weight.

Yeah i know it wasnt his board, just thought it was funny because he was makin fun of himself not hanging with the top guys in good surf.

In other news i can't wait to see jjf start to surf heats like he freesurfs. I'm lucky to be friends with pat o'connell and got to spend some time with jjf a while back, seriously the nicest fucking kid.

 

[Clamjunkies]

Yeah i know it wasnt his board, just thought it was funny because he was makin fun of himself not hanging with the top guys in good surf.

In other news i can't wait to see jjf start to surf heats like he freesurfs. I'm lucky to be friends with pat o'connell and got to spend some time with jjf a while back, seriously the nicest fucking kid.

every one loves john john, it would be so awesome to see him win! He has the potential he just always looses by under a point because the judges liked how the other persons wave was a tiny bit bigger even thougt they barley surfed it. John rips his waves to pieces and has a supper strong air, barrel, and carving game.

 

[gapersarefriends]

every one loves john john, it would be so awesome to see him win! He has the potential he just always looses by under a point because the judges liked how the other persons wave was a tiny bit bigger even thougt they barley surfed it. John rips his waves to pieces and has a supper strong air, barrel, and carving game.

I havent seen someone get shafted as hard as he did against caio this year since semenuk at rampage

 

[elcornholio]

I'm from the South of Boston. Want waves near there? Gotta drive a bit. Try heading to Hampton in NH, South Shore area in mass, and RI if you're up for it. North Shore also breaks occasionally, never surfed there though its kind of no-mans land. All have varying consistencies, just check some reports and wait for swell before you make the drive. Praying for surf is your best bet around here haha

I live in Duxbury and It gets pretty good in Marshfield around Green Harbor in the winter. Cold as shit tho.

 

[1337]

Yeah i know it wasnt his board, just thought it was funny because he was makin fun of himself not hanging with the top guys in good surf.

In other news i can't wait to see jjf start to surf heats like he freesurfs. I'm lucky to be friends with pat o'connell and got to spend some time with jjf a while back, seriously the nicest fucking kid.

every one loves john john, it would be so awesome to see him win! He has the potential he just always looses by under a point because the judges liked how the other persons wave was a tiny bit bigger even thougt they barley surfed it. John rips his waves to pieces and has a supper strong air, barrel, and carving game.

Yeah I'd be stoked to see JJF in gold. Haven't watch much competitive surfing so far this year though, it's been pretty wack tbh. Slater never doing well, no Fanning, mixed results for JJF.

 

[aloha.]

I live in Duxbury and It gets pretty good in Marshfield around Green Harbor in the winter. Cold as shit tho.

Hahaha no shit I'm from Scituate. Small world. I must have seen you out at some point!

 

[DrZoidberg]

Yeah I'd be stoked to see JJF in gold. Haven't watch much competitive surfing so far this year though, it's been pretty wack tbh. Slater never doing well, no Fanning, mixed results for JJF.

I feel like the ocean hates JJF. It's like a good wave never comes to him.

 

[Clamjunkies]

I feel like the ocean hates JJF. It's like a good wave never comes to him.

Yea and he surfs the waves he does get soo well! Its so fucking rigged

 

[Scotty_B]

Six-six mini simms will be an oil tanker? Unless you're tall or heavy.

yea oil tanker or whatever man, I'm 6'4" 185-200 so I think I'll be good right?

 

[DrZoidberg]

yea oil tanker or whatever man, I'm 6'4" 185-200 so I think I'll be good right?

Oh that sounds more like it. I was gonna say if you're not that big you'd probably benefit from a significant downsize, as simms carry a lot of volume and surface area.

Depends on the width too. If you ask me there's a practical limit to width as far as turning the thing is concerned. A couple people I surf with frequently ride larger simmons or simms type hybrids in the 5'10" range and they seem to work nicely for them.

 

[Scotty_B]

Oh that sounds more like it. I was gonna say if you're not that big you'd probably benefit from a significant downsize, as simms carry a lot of volume and surface area.

Depends on the width too. If you ask me there's a practical limit to width as far as turning the thing is concerned. A couple people I surf with frequently ride larger simmons or simms type hybrids in the 5'10" range and they seem to work nicely for them.

Yea when I did my research I was focused on down the line speed and didn't really think about the width of the board. In what ways does the width of a board affect turning capabilities?

 

[DrZoidberg]

Yea when I did my research I was focused on down the line speed and didn't really think about the width of the board. In what ways does the width of a board affect turning capabilities?

In a similar way to skis, a wide board is harder to roll over onto the rail. It'll still turn, but an 18.5" wide board is going to be more responsive than a 22" wide one. Obviously there's a million variables here though. I guess what I meant is that there's most likely a point where adding width won't help as much as it'll hurt your turning. It's hard to throw a number at it. I would say just don't overthink it. You can still arc a nice turn on pow skis. They don't rail a turn like a full camber 85mm waist ski, but it's probably a perfectly acceptable turn nonetheless.

Nothing is absolute... but I'd say once you get into the 23" territory you're pushing it. 23" is rare. But who knows? What's your outline look like?

 

[Scotty_B]

In a similar way to skis, a wide board is harder to roll over onto the rail. It'll still turn, but an 18.5" wide board is going to be more responsive than a 22" wide one. Obviously there's a million variables here though. I guess what I meant is that there's most likely a point where adding width won't help as much as it'll hurt your turning. It's hard to throw a number at it. I would say just don't overthink it. You can still arc a nice turn on pow skis. They don't rail a turn like a full camber 85mm waist ski, but it's probably a perfectly acceptable turn nonetheless.

Nothing is absolute... but I'd say once you get into the 23" territory you're pushing it. 23" is rare. But who knows? What's your outline look like?

Well what I did is I traced a 6'6" fish template I found online then took another mini simmons 6' template and kinda blended the outlines together. I guess you could say it's a fish up front and a mini sims out back...That's how it looks anyways. I tried for something like this;

 

[DrZoidberg]

Well what I did is I traced a 6'6" fish template I found online then took another mini simmons 6' template and kinda blended the outlines together. I guess you could say it's a fish up front and a mini sims out back...That's how it looks anyways. I tried for something like this;

Looks like it. Did you mess with the rocker and bottom contours in the program? I personally would add a bit more tail rocker since with that much surface area and volume you can totally afford a bit more. It'll increase your control and the board still won't be slow by any means, especially at that length. Boards that are very flat and wide out the tail skip across the water sometimes, or are otherwise kinda odd to manipulate.

blendingcurves.com has nice templates too, if you ever get stuck.

 

[Scotty_B]

Looks like it. Did you mess with the rocker and bottom contours in the program? I personally would add a bit more tail rocker since with that much surface area and volume you can totally afford a bit more. It'll increase your control and the board still won't be slow by any means, especially at that length. Boards that are very flat and wide out the tail skip across the water sometimes, or are otherwise kinda odd to manipulate.

blendingcurves.com has nice templates too, if you ever get stuck.

No I haven't touched the rocker at all since its my first board. I used the existing rocker from the blank below...anyways I've already routed out the fin boxes, do you that I could just sand over the top of the boxes to create that rocker you were talking about? If not then what are your thoughts on glassing? should I glass the boxes then the board or vice versa?

here's the rocker profile;

 

[DrZoidberg]

No I haven't touched the rocker at all since its my first board. I used the existing rocker from the blank below...anyways I've already routed out the fin boxes, do you that I could just sand over the top of the boxes to create that rocker you were talking about? If not then what are your thoughts on glassing? should I glass the boxes then the board or vice versa?

here's the rocker profile;

If you do that you'll need to just reroute the fin boxes so they sit at the correct depth. Otherwise they'd be too shallow, and so stick up above the foam. You can certainly stick with that rocker if you want or don't feel comfortable trying to modify it, though. It'll be fast and have that nice sliding across the water feeling.

What fin system is it? If it's a preglass like futures or fcs2 then you just want a glass patch over the boxes, which can be done the same time as the bottom lam. And of course you need to use resin to put the boxes in prior to all that, which is why it's called a preglass system.

Did you get your stuff from greenlight? That's where I get my stuff. They publish a nice guide on their site, or they did at one point. They changed the site so I'm not sure where it went.

 

[Scotty_B]

If you do that you'll need to just reroute the fin boxes so they sit at the correct depth. Otherwise they'd be too shallow, and so stick up above the foam. You can certainly stick with that rocker if you want or don't feel comfortable trying to modify it, though. It'll be fast and have that nice sliding across the water feeling.

What fin system is it? If it's a preglass like futures or fcs2 then you just want a glass patch over the boxes, which can be done the same time as the bottom lam. And of course you need to use resin to put the boxes in prior to all that, which is why it's called a preglass system.

Did you get your stuff from greenlight? That's where I get my stuff. They publish a nice guide on their site, or they did at one point. They changed the site so I'm not sure where it went.

Sweet I'll keep the rocker and work with that. I got the blank and templates from greenlight and an FCS II quad fin system from foamez. With a little research and instruction i should be able to find my way through the glassing process but I want to do a mexican blanket paintjob on the bottom...what experience do you have with painting boards? I'm thinking something like this would be fucking radddd

 

[DrZoidberg]

Sweet I'll keep the rocker and work with that. I got the blank and templates from greenlight and an FCS II quad fin system from foamez. With a little research and instruction i should be able to find my way through the glassing process but I want to do a mexican blanket paintjob on the bottom...what experience do you have with painting boards? I'm thinking something like this would be fucking radddd

That was probably done in the resin, but you can do the same with acrylic on the foam. I'd advise against trying that in resin on your first shot anyway, seeing as that's a race against time. If you read the thread in my sig, you'll see the boards where I've done resin color work. I always go nose to tail, rather than rail to rail, solely for aesthetic reasons though. I've done paint on a few as well.

Anyway, after you're done shaping you'll want to finish sand the blank to make a nice, smooth looking surface. This is important with eps, which looks ugly when you don't. Some people seal them with lightweight spackle and di water mix, or now they sell sealing compounds. You need very little of either. Don't cake it on. Let it dry, then go over it with some sort of finer gritted, worn out sandpaper or sanding screen. This will make a smooth surface that doesn't look like eps beads. Be gentle as to not alter the shape.

As far as paint goes, you also want to go on the light side with it. All you want to do is stain the foam. You don't want a super thick layer. A possible way to get that look it to just squirt lines of paint onto the blank then drag a squeege across, from rail to rail.

 

[theabortionator]

I might go out when I get back to barcelona. Ive surfed one week in the last may e 5 year that I can think of. Also have only swam a couple of times in that period. Fucked my shoulder up pretty good and just stopped going in the water. Idk, havent been near the ocean much anyway.

Probably going to try and get on a longboard or at least a funshape.

Im surr my paddling game is an epic fail and really just hoping to catch at least a couple decent waves and not drown.

If I had more friends that still surfed and either lived by the ocean or were down to id probably try and become less of a kook. Oh well.

 

[DJtearegas]

United is not liable for any damage to surfboards. Hidden on their site, not under the "fragile items" section, which was under baggage liability information, so logically that would be the place one would see such a thing, along with the other types of boards and equipment they are for some reason "not liable" for. Look here for a full list:
https://www.united.com/web/en-US/content/travel/baggage/sports.aspx

Its ridiculous. the only sporting equipment they cover is baseball equipment, kayaks and canoes, parachutes and parasails, "skating equipment", and tennis equipment. Basically shit that is unbreakable by shitty baggage handlers

So basically they broke my brand new 730 (with the pad!) board and I get nothing.

Least I got a job on Cape Cod this summer (low hours, tight) and I still have the trusty 9'6 and a catchsurf stump. Shopping for a new board but I feel guilty getting another 730$ board

 

[Clamjunkies]

My first handshape! Its a 7' 9" x supper wide like 22+ Its goin really well so far, all it needs is the finbox and hot coat, and the fin definitely needs another coat. I can't wait to ride it this summer

 

[S.J.W]

It's getting to that time of the year where the mornings it's cold enough to scare away the kooks but the water is still super warm. So you can still surf in a 2/2mm short arm steamer and there's not of people out. Best time of the year for sure.

 

[gapersarefriends]

It's getting to that time of the year where the mornings it's cold enough to scare away the kooks but the water is still super warm. So you can still surf in a 2/2mm short arm steamer and there's not of people out. Best time of the year for sure.

You mean to tell me you dont love scrapping for waves with johnny rashguard?

 

[theabortionator]

United is not liable for any damage to surfboards. Hidden on their site, not under the "fragile items" section, which was under baggage liability information, so logically that would be the place one would see such a thing, along with the other types of boards and equipment they are for some reason "not liable" for. Look here for a full list:
https://www.united.com/web/en-US/content/travel/baggage/sports.aspx

Its ridiculous. the only sporting equipment they cover is baseball equipment, kayaks and canoes, parachutes and parasails, "skating equipment", and tennis equipment. Basically shit that is unbreakable by shitty baggage handlers

So basically they broke my brand new 730 (with the pad!) board and I get nothing.

Least I got a job on Cape Cod this summer (low hours, tight) and I still have the trusty 9'6 and a catchsurf stump. Shopping for a new board but I feel guilty getting another 730$ board

Thats bullshit. Especially with the prices to ship a board. Even 5+ years ago I used to spend 100 each way to fly mine to california and that was before everyone was fucking everyone on baggage. You should have some quality guarantees if youre paying that much for something that weighs nothing.

---------

Im back in spain but there arent any waves wortb renting a board/commuting to at the moment so not going to surf. Hoping to go in south africa though

 

[S.J.W]

I swapped out my AG47 performance for an AG47 zipperless and it's so much better. It's like surfing in board shorts but warmer. Literally feels like I'm not wearing nothing at all. So good.

In other news, Dane Reynolds is suing quiksilver for 3.5 million or something

 

[S.J.W]

Wilko was fucking robbed. That alley oop was not an 8

 

[DrZoidberg]

I forgot how fun smaller surf at low tide can be. I actually hit the nose on the bottom halfway through a cutback of sorts but managed to ride out anyway since I kinda just bounced. No damage since it's one of mine.

Almost 3/2 weather here. It's cold for some reason and it looks like it'll be lake atlantic all this week anyway.

 

[.lencon]

Where's a good place to buy used, cheap, but not totally destroyed surfboards? Want to get into river surfing and when I move for college I'll have a chance to wakesurf/real surf with it as well. I live in Idaho and don't have any local used surf board shops:/

 

[S.J.W]

Supposed to be decent here on thursday, 59 degrees too and I don't have work till five. Water's cold but what's new?

Anybody use these fancy blackstix ones? From a hydrodynamics standpoint not flat fins should be better. Intended use fits the description, meaning speed generating in smaller surf and general twitchiness. I've worked some extra hours and I feel like buying something expensive and surf related... Plus I actually need fins.

I've been riding the Machado in my switchblade for the past two months which are pretty similar fin and I love them. They go great. I'd say stay away from the blackstix in anything bigger than 4 foot as they have too much drive. But anything smaller than that and I wouldn't ride any other fin.

 

[DrZoidberg]

I've been riding the Machado in my switchblade for the past two months which are pretty similar fin and I love them. They go great. I'd say stay away from the blackstix in anything bigger than 4 foot as they have too much drive. But anything smaller than that and I wouldn't ride any other fin.

I've been riding them in everything. Buoy clocked in at 5 feet and 10 seconds today and I was riding my 5'4"x20.5 with those in it. I was feeling a bit of them being too jumpy, but I think in a skinnier, more hpsb styled board would be fine. I should be shaping myself a new version of my all around performance shortie thing soon anyway so they'll run well in that. Either way, it was fun here today. should be fun tomorrow and tuesday. About time.

How heavy are you people and what volumes would/do you ride in a high performance craft? I weigh 120 pounds at most, so I can dip pretty low into the 20s on a 5'7"x19", although I'm trying to aim for like 25 or so, I think. I've never had a board with that little volume. I think there's a lower limit to practicality no matter how light you are.

 

[S.J.W]

I've been riding them in everything. Buoy clocked in at 5 feet and 10 seconds today and I was riding my 5'4"x20.5 with those in it. I was feeling a bit of them being too jumpy, but I think in a skinnier, more hpsb styled board would be fine. I should be shaping myself a new version of my all around performance shortie thing soon anyway so they'll run well in that. Either way, it was fun here today. should be fun tomorrow and tuesday. About time.

How heavy are you people and what volumes would/do you ride in a high performance craft? I weigh 120 pounds at most, so I can dip pretty low into the 20s on a 5'7"x19", although I'm trying to aim for like 25 or so, I think. I've never had a board with that little volume. I think there's a lower limit to practicality no matter how light you are.

Well depends on what board I'm riding and how big the waves ar. I've been lucky enough to work in a surf shop so I get boards for cheap. I'm 6 foot, 155 pounds and I ride a 5,9 DHD switchblade, 5,10 DHD DX1, 5,11 DX1 and a 6,1 DHD ducks nuts. All stock dimensions. Switchblade has 27 litres of foam, same with both DX1's and the Duck nuts has 26 litres of foam.

 

[ascent_studios]

Anyone recommend a really cheap (sub $200) board that is preferably and short, fish or hybrid? I'm broke and I want to surf so bad this summer. I've used my friends foam top and I've gotten pretty good at it and I want to step up my game

 

[DrZoidberg]

So the wsl is gonna buy slaters artificial wave.

 

[gapersarefriends]

Anyone recommend a really cheap (sub $200) board that is preferably and short, fish or hybrid? I'm broke and I want to surf so bad this summer. I've used my friends foam top and I've gotten pretty good at it and I want to step up my game

go to a used board shop

 

[ascent_studios]

go to a used board shop

Any you recommend for online? There isn't much at all near me

 

[DrZoidberg]

Any you recommend for online? There isn't much at all near me

Shipping a surfboard is going to run you over your budget unless you get some crazy shipping deal or the vendor has some cheap way of doing it. Can't think of any places that list used inventory online.

3rd day in a row of surf for me. Got sunburnt for the first time this year so I'll have to start using sunscreen. It seems we've exited our period of perpetual cloudiness. Saw some dolphins too. They're earlier than last year, I think anyway.