Surfing thread? Surfing thread.

13463641:DingoSean said:
Yeah, I linked it this morning when it came up from one person on my feed, then everyone and their mom flipped out and linked it.

...guess Jaws Hysteria is going to be on everyone's mind this summer.

Can't wait for some social activist to make some petition or get upset about the dangers of surfing and banning the J-Bay stop or some stupid shit.

I just got back into surfing this summer after a way to long break, so I'm basically teaching myself all over again. I live in westerly RI so I'm basically been surfing Sam's Beach or Fenway, but curious to hear where people are surfing in gansett since I drive past on route 1 every day after work.

Also curious as to what most people use to check wave reports, I most just use swellinfo.com since it's super easy to understand
 
13463657:belden... said:
Can't wait for some social activist to make some petition or get upset about the dangers of surfing and banning the J-Bay stop or some stupid shit.

You know that shit won't gain dick for traction though...
 
13463657:belden... said:
Also curious as to what most people use to check wave reports, I most just use swellinfo.com since it's super easy to understand

I usually check swellinfo, surfline and sometimes magic seaweed. I also look at the relevant buoys (national buoy database) and wind maps plus I use the knowledge I've accumulated over years of surfing, and average it all to make a good guess. Plus I check the camera that's a bit further south of where I surf so that helps a lot with the actual local direction of the wind.

If you ask me, surfline has high standards. I've had tons of fun on "poor to fair" days, and even poor days. I slightly lean to surfline over swellinfo for winds, but they both vary in accuracy and I like to consider both. Swellinfo seems to predict slightly bigger waves than seem to end up where I surf, but i bet that sort of thing varies for each spot. Sometimes they nail it. Forecasts change so quickly. Swellinfo nailed it last wednesday and friday. I've only ever seen "good" on surfline a handful of times. I think hurricane Cristobal was one time last year. It delivered for sure.

And I was watching the finals live this morning. Like half a second before Mick saw it, you could see it swimming up behind him. Biggest oh shit moment I've had in a while. I just saw the fin and got really worried for him when he went behind that wave and you lost sight of him. Needless to say I'll be on the lookout next time I'm out.
 
Also can anyone link me to a good tech talk article or video that'll kinda summarize what board shapes/tail shapes work best or do what? I've been looking all over and all I can really get is that there's a shit ton of different specs for everything from length to tail to rail to make to fin
 
13463690:belden... said:
Also can anyone link me to a good tech talk article or video that'll kinda summarize what board shapes/tail shapes work best or do what? I've been looking all over and all I can really get is that there's a shit ton of different specs for everything from length to tail to rail to make to fin

A lot of this shit isn't noticeable unless you're fairly good (I still don't care what fins I'm on, but I care a lot about what shape I ride). Don't get caught up in fin foil and that junk.

Look more at the general shape, and how much volume it has. You want more volume and width when you're learning.
 
I think this photo speaks alot about the courage of Julian. Apparently Mick was yelling at Julian to paddle in shore but Julian just kept padding.

sharkattack8511jbay15kirstin_n.jpg


https://www.facebook.com/WSL/videos/10153043402022058/?pnref=story

So much emotion as well.
 
13463730:dodge said:
A lot of this shit isn't noticeable unless you're fairly good (I still don't care what fins I'm on, but I care a lot about what shape I ride). Don't get caught up in fin foil and that junk.

Look more at the general shape, and how much volume it has. You want more volume and width when you're learning.

I'd have to disagree. When I went from standard FCS fins to FCS Nexus fins the difference I felt was amazing. The first wave I caught you could tell the difference. I'd suggest just grabbing a pair from a mate or asking to demo a pair from a local surf shop. You'll feel the difference for sure.
 
Fins are like skis. People wonder why we obsess over 171s vs 176s when in reality the difference is like the length of your finger. But when you do something a lot you notice that stuff.

I started riding my super stubby 5'4" with more fin area and it was a good decision. I usually used the futures T1 twin and trailer. I used the twin sides and my F4 center fin from my shortboard and it's got more kick to it. It's nice. Need to try it in waves where I have time to do something other than pump and pivot, but it feels promising.

Anyway... So there's been like zero hurricanes on the east coast. There was that somewhat tropical storm in like May or whenever that was. Last summer had so many good hurricanes. Never came on land, just hooked northeast and delivered the goods.
 
13470235:DrZoidberg said:
Fins are like skis. People wonder why we obsess over 171s vs 176s when in reality the difference is like the length of your finger. But when you do something a lot you notice that stuff.

I started riding my super stubby 5'4" with more fin area and it was a good decision. I usually used the futures T1 twin and trailer. I used the twin sides and my F4 center fin from my shortboard and it's got more kick to it. It's nice. Need to try it in waves where I have time to do something other than pump and pivot, but it feels promising.

Anyway... So there's been like zero hurricanes on the east coast. There was that somewhat tropical storm in like May or whenever that was. Last summer had so many good hurricanes. Never came on land, just hooked northeast and delivered the goods.

Dude, right? Absolute quiet summer for atlantic tropical development (crazy how much I pay attention to that stuff now).

We have some decent swell building right now, I surfed for an hour this evening and drove past the beach again about 30 minutes ago; under the moonlight, it's building for sure. Swellinfo is calling for chest high tomorrow AM so I'm fucking PUMPED to get after it at sunrise. Too bad my fucking water housing stalled via UPS for a day and wont come until tomorrow afternoon :(

Quad or thruster tomorrow? Decisions, decisions.
 
13470262:1337 said:
Dude, right? Absolute quiet summer for atlantic tropical development (crazy how much I pay attention to that stuff now).

We have some decent swell building right now, I surfed for an hour this evening and drove past the beach again about 30 minutes ago; under the moonlight, it's building for sure. Swellinfo is calling for chest high tomorrow AM so I'm fucking PUMPED to get after it at sunrise. Too bad my fucking water housing stalled via UPS for a day and wont come until tomorrow afternoon :(

Quad or thruster tomorrow? Decisions, decisions.

There's something brewing for jersey for the weekend. Tomorrow too but the winds are forecast to be bad. I might just go out of desperation.

Interestingly enough I don't own any quads. If you look at the pros on the tour their quad rears are so far back and in towards the center, which probably feels a lot closer to a thruster than rail set quads, which I'd imagine flow and drive more like a twin. I like twins, but they absolutely lack the kick of a three fin. Maybe an on rail 4 fin arrangement is the perfect solution. I've had a couple sessions as of late that remind me why I like three fins though.

There's not enough waves or time in the world to try all the board and fin combos I'd like to.
 
13470286:DrZoidberg said:
There's not enough waves or time in the world to try all the board and fin combos I'd like to.

You're telling me! The struggle is so real.
 
[video]https://vimeo.com/134941369[/video]

Interesting. They turned the power up on this artificial wave and it looks fun as shit. They had that video like a few weeks ago that was pretty unimpressive. But this looks great.
 
Had the scariest/most fun session of my life the other day, 10-12 foot shorey on a wave storm. Took quite a few spills, but made a couple drops and got some good donuts so all is well. Also I went down for a little sunset whomp a couple days ago and met JOB. Pretty cool guy
 
Decent waves today. Almost did a floater then hopped onto some guys board cause he dropped in on me. I decided it'd be a better idea to just go over the top. I did so much maneuvering behind him and he had no idea I was there at all. I hate to call people out and call my waves but I'm gonna have to start, on weekends at least.
 
13472131:DrZoidberg said:
Decent waves today. Almost did a floater then hopped onto some guys board cause he dropped in on me. I decided it'd be a better idea to just go over the top. I did so much maneuvering behind him and he had no idea I was there at all. I hate to call people out and call my waves but I'm gonna have to start, on weekends at least.

Hahaha my favorite are the weekend warrior dads that longboard when everyone else is inside on a shortboard. They call their drop on every wave they are paddling into, then proceed to beef hard and the wave is fair game again.
 
i might finally get to check surfing off my bucket list. I might be going to Sayulita Mexico for a wedding in March. I am beyond stoked!
 
13472885:1337 said:
Hahaha my favorite are the weekend warrior dads that longboard when everyone else is inside on a shortboard. They call their drop on every wave they are paddling into, then proceed to beef hard and the wave is fair game again.

Supposed to be good tomorrow and wednesday, and since it's midweek I should be good. It wasn't even an inside on a shortboard day. It was just good, no reason to ride a longboard unless you like them or you're too old for anything else.

I'd say I'm a more reserved person, in or out of the water. I do think I've gotten less shy about being aggressive while getting waves, though. I hate to surf like half the people out there suck and will miss their wave or blow it on the drop. But that's often the case.

The other issue is when there's a few good people out who are jerks. They paddle all the way to the top each time so they're always in position. So I end up paddling around them. I hate doing it but they clearly aren't trying to be considerate. And I certainly didn't come to watch them surf, nor are they the only ones out who know how to surf. I let others get waves. I don't get one then immediately take a spot furthest up the peak so the next one is technically mine again.
 
Been a quiet summer in NE Massachusetts for waves. Lucked out with a prime direct hitting E swell in mid June, but other than a few bumps, the summer has been slow for surfing....not surprising. Fortunately, the water is super warm, so any swell that comes through has been nice to get out and catch a few waves without a wetsuit.

Love getting out and logging in the summer, but fall Im always happy to get out on a shorter, fishy board for long rides.

Hope we get something soon! Im constantly checking wave forecasts in search of whats good. Been hoping to get up to Nova Scotia for a surf trip, but thats far and I havent had the time.
 
Mobile and disappearing keyboard...

Woke up this morning at six to surf, saw it was thunderstorming so i decided to wait it out. Couldn't fall back asleep for a few hours but then i did, and i had the weirdest dream. In the dream i went and it was high tide, which is what I'm waiting out right now. It was breaking big but right on the beach, below sea level like teahpou or however you spell it. I knew it was a dream and i was trying to go back home to wake up so i could go to the beach in real life. But i got really worried about leaving my boards at the dream beach and walked around in circles. I couldn't wake up and i thought in the dream about why i couldn't escape the dream or the dream beach. Not sure what happened after but I'm up now and high tide is at like 11.
 
Swell of the year coming in to Hoddevik right now. Might be the first time this summer on a shortboard.
 
Yesterday was soooooo good. In the water before sunrise for 2.5 hrs of surfing at Long Sands, then went and surfed a river mouth right in Ogunquit later in the day. Nice chest high sets and I felt confident in the water. Stoked for another bump tomorrow!!
 
13477444:4frnt222 said:
how hard is surfing compared to skiing?

are ariel 360's like landing a trip on skis? give me some comparisons.

Depends. It's not like trips, but maybe dubs in the sense that like tons of twelve year olds can dub now. I feel like a lot of little kids can do airs. Some snowboarder said it well when he said you know something's hard when turning is a truck.

I had the most amazing session last tuesday. Chest high at least, barely anybody out, later in the day near sunset so there was no wind. I surfed for six hours straight.
 
13477444:4frnt222 said:
how hard is surfing compared to skiing?

are ariel 360's like landing a trip on skis? give me some comparisons.

Depends. It's not like trips, but maybe dubs in the sense that like tons of twelve year olds can dub now. I feel like a lot of little kids can do airs. Some snowboarder said it well when he said you know something's hard when turning is a truck.

I had the most amazing session last tuesday. Chest high at least, barely anybody out, later in the day near sunset so there was no wind. I surfed for six hours straight.
 
13477524:DrZoidberg said:
Depends. It's not like trips, but maybe dubs in the sense that like tons of twelve year olds can dub now. I feel like a lot of little kids can do airs. Some snowboarder said it well when he said you know something's hard when turning is a truck.

I had the most amazing session last tuesday. Chest high at least, barely anybody out, later in the day near sunset so there was no wind. I surfed for six hours straight.

Opps...

Turning is a trick, first of all, not truck.

Second of all I was going to post that Jordy Smith is out of tahiti now. Sucks. Just want to see the guy surf. He's so good.
 
13477444:4frnt222 said:
how hard is surfing compared to skiing?

are ariel 360's like landing a trip on skis? give me some comparisons.

You can't compare the two to be honest. When I surfed a super boxy bank at my local I could air reverse fairly easily. And so could most of my mates. However if I went to a little longer wave like Bells or Jbay, airs are pretty hard. But if you go to brazil then you can land an air every time. It's really dependent on how the wave is. Surfing is alot more complex than skiing. In skiing the stepper, bigger and deeper the better. If surfing you have alot of different waves.



So you can win an event without even needing to an air. Or you can win an event without even doing a turn. That's the beauty about the world title race in surfing. You need to be good at everything. That's why I don't think anyone really cares about who gets number one in slopestyle, half pipe rankings because it's really just one course over and over again.
 
right now i ride a soft top longboard on usually waist high (chest/shoulder high after a big storm) waves on long beach island in NJ. only get to surf here 2 weeks out of the year and have been riding this board for the last 5 or so. any tips on what kind of board i should get as the next step up? like length, whether i should stick with a soft top or not, etc. I want something a little more maneuverable
 
13477613:duder227 said:
right now i ride a soft top longboard on usually waist high (chest/shoulder high after a big storm) waves on long beach island in NJ. only get to surf here 2 weeks out of the year and have been riding this board for the last 5 or so. any tips on what kind of board i should get as the next step up? like length, whether i should stick with a soft top or not, etc. I want something a little more maneuverable

You have many, many options. First off, height, weight? Do you want to go shorter than you're at? Maneuverability is not only linked to length, although length is obviously a pretty large contributor. Softies suffer from having very thick rails and a thick-all-over volume distribution, which hurts turning capability.

I surf Nj all year round. So without knowing anything about you, here's my opinion. Keep the softie for when it's tiny. Get something along the lines of a lost puddle jumper or RV, the CI average joe or pod mod, or the firewire sweet potato or baked potato. You'll have to talk a bit more about your skill and stats to determine a length. These kinds of boards are very accessible to all skill levels though, with properly varying length. They catch waves easy. They're fast and short with more normal volume distributions, so they're maneuverable. They can handle most conditions. I love my 5'4"x20.5 in head high surf. I take it out in the winter often. It's super fast and it flows, but I can also surf it aggressively. These kinds of short, stubby boards have come a long way. They're highly applicable to NJ summers.They're easy and fun to surf, but can still be surfed at a high level.

The downsides of these are, obviously, the exceptional width. It's not a huge disadvantage though. People who hate on these are often of the "pro level shortboard with monster sticker on it or I'm not surfing it" variety. They're not what Mick or Kelly's riding, but none of us are Mick or Kelly. Will it surf like a 5'10"x18.25 potato chip? No. But those are useless most of the time.

You will, obviously, also not be able to surf when it's longboard only territory. But that's what the softie is for. It's like having a two ski quiver. You have pow skis for specialty use, then sort of wide park skis that can do everything. The softie handles super small stuff, while your short, wide and stubby board will do pretty much everything else. Obviously there are more ideal crafts for certain wave types, but how often is it huge, fast and barreling here? And honestly, with big fins and some confidence it's doable. for surfing two weeks a year it's a very ideal quiver.

There's many other options, and if you don't want a midlength or longboard then there's so much available too. Surfboards are harder to pick than skis.
 
What do they call left foot vs right foot forward in surfing? In contests can you score better going opposite foot forwards?

Or does it not matter just frontside or backside, left or right foot forward doesn't matter?
 
13480223:scratchskier321 said:
What do they call left foot vs right foot forward in surfing? In contests can you score better going opposite foot forwards?

Or does it not matter just frontside or backside, left or right foot forward doesn't matter?

Goofy or regular, as in skateboarding.

You're probably not gonna get scored better for going switch. Nobody really does that. Sometimes you'll see Kelly Slater do it as a novelty thing if he's winning. He's done it a few times in the asp/wsl contests. Front or backside doesn't matter either in terms or scoring. The wave kinda decides if you're going left or right, then whatever stance you are decides front of backside. So it's pretty much decided for you, unless it goes both ways.
 
Bummed to see John John get knocked out the billabong pro. But that was such a fire heat and could of been a final any other day. But I'm hoping Julian or Owen can pick up a win and the yellow jeresey.
 
Sort of off topic but where is the best place to ski in the winter then surf in the summer? Halfway between Tahoe and Santa Cruz? Maybe Mt Baker area?
 
Little update. If Felipe wins his round 5 match up with Italo then he takes the lead if Owen loses the quater final. If Own loses his quater final and Felipe loses his round 5 and Kelly takes the win then Adrian and Kelly will be tied for yellow and if Felipe loses, and it comes down to Kelly and Owen in the final Own will take the yellow Jerrsey. Shit is getting interesting. Fucking Owen chargers harder than anyone out there
 
13483330:DrZoidberg said:
If it swings north anyway.

Lol did not deliver in any sense of the word. There's still been small but fun waves. Better than last week.

Watching the tahiti finals right now. Italo is killing it actually. Too bad he's out.
 
The last 4 days have been pretty great in Nova Scotia. Surfed 7 different spots, 2 of them new ones to me. One I road tripped to on the south coast. A classic well known spot down there that I've been dying to get to. The other a new spot that I found on a hike on the east, probably surfed before but certainly seldom known STOKED. Looks like some ESE swell coming through on Friday, gonna hit up one of my favourite south east facing spots in the AM then finally exploring a new spot that I've been scoping on google earth for the longest time, can't wait!
 
13483350:36ChambersOfWu said:
Sort of off topic but where is the best place to ski in the winter then surf in the summer? Halfway between Tahoe and Santa Cruz? Maybe Mt Baker area?

I'm not sure where in the states but in Canada the Vancouver area (too bad its hella expensive) has Tofino in the summer and Whistler in the winter
 
13486984:GoodPoint said:
I'm not sure where in the states but in Canada the Vancouver area (too bad its hella expensive) has Tofino in the summer and Whistler in the winter

This is what I do. There is a number of us who live in whis and regularly make trips to Vancouver island to surf. So many free camping spots in tofino ukee area.
 
13486801:steezysteeze said:
The last 4 days have been pretty great in Nova Scotia. Surfed 7 different spots, 2 of them new ones to me. One I road tripped to on the south coast. A classic well known spot down there that I've been dying to get to. The other a new spot that I found on a hike on the east, probably surfed before but certainly seldom known STOKED. Looks like some ESE swell coming through on Friday, gonna hit up one of my favourite south east facing spots in the AM then finally exploring a new spot that I've been scoping on google earth for the longest time, can't wait!

Yo man, hit me up in the next month or two if it gets real sick there. I've been dying to get out there and would love a guide!
 
Surfed a dozen days in may, but tomorrow im packing the car and driving from NWT Canada to Norcal, google that shit. pretty stoked to get in the water, probably the last time before winter.

Sidenote it was 3 degrees here 3 days ago. winter is coming.
 
Back
Top