Official mountain biking thread

13409657:*TURBONERD* said:
Yeah, why did you use a fisheye to take that?

Because I got 2 packages that day, a fisheye and bike parts. I was utilizing my new assets :p
 
The ground has softened up finally up here in NY, to the point where it's safe for the trails to be ridden! I'm gona try to head out today to some of my favorite riding spots. Excited!
 
So stoked. Pick up my bike today and it's awesome. Still have some suspension tuning to do, but it's going to be awesome. Did a quick 5 km jaunt around the neighbourhood, but it's freezing out today so I wasn't going too far. Hopefully it warms up (a bit) soon!
 
If anyone wants a brand new size large TLD D3, I have one for $180 + shipping. Bought the last size in stock and it turned out to be too small (always try on a helmet in a shop before you buy it, kids). I'm only asking what i bought it for plus shipping. just throwing this out there before I return it and lose $30 on return shipping.
 
13409404:.lencon said:
Anyone have sensus grips? My stock grips on my Giant reign are going to shit. Interested in sensus grips.

Also, any DH helmet recommendations that won't break the bank? 661 looks good and cheap ish

Going off this post, I still need some help. I need new grips, new pedals, and a new helmet.

Grips:

-sensus grips

-lizard skin grips

Pedals: I have no idea, want some nice DH grippy pedals tho

Helmet:

-Fox rampage helmet

-661 comp helmet

Help me out NS!
 
13410523:.lencon said:
Going off this post, I still need some help. I need new grips, new pedals, and a new helmet.

Grips:

-sensus grips

-lizard skin grips

Pedals: I have no idea, want some nice DH grippy pedals tho

Helmet:

-Fox rampage helmet

-661 comp helmet

Help me out NS!

Deity makes a really good range of pedals for any purpose. Straitline is probably the grippiest pedal you can get, but customer service and prices suck.
 
I've been riding the kona hei hei for about a year and i love it!

but I'm looking into upgrading some stuff on it...

hei_hei.jpg


any suggestions, the rear axle is through but the front is a QR so i'm thinking of changing the currant fork to the rock shox sid xx

63044_00_d.jpg


and I'm thinking about doing a tubeless conversion but I'm so lost in it so also any insight on that is appreciated...

also my shimano clips are beat to shit so ill probably get some eggbeaters,

heres the current spec list any advice would be appreciated

REAR SHOCK RockShox Monarch RL

FORK RockShox Recon Gold Solo Air 120mm Tapered QR15

CRANKARMS Shimano Deore

CHAINRINGS 24/38t

B/B Shimano Deore

PEDALS n/a

CHAIN KMC X10

FREEWHEEL Shimano HG50 11-36t 10spd

F/D Shimano Deore

R/D Shimano XT

SHIFTERS Shimano Deore

BRAKE CALIPERS Shimano M447 Hydraulic

FRONT BRAKE ROTOR Shimano 180mm

REAR BRAKE ROTOR Shimano 160mm

BRAKE LEVERS Shimano M506 Hydraulic

HEADSET FSA No.57B

HANDLEBAR Kona XC/BC Riser

STEM Kona XC/Road

SEATPOST Kona Thumb w/Offset

SEAT CLAMP Kona QR

GRIPS Kona Race Light LOG

SADDLE WTB Volt Sport SE

FRONT HUB Shimano Deore QR15

REAR HUB Shimano Deore 142x12mm

SPOKES Stainless 14g

RIMS WTB SX19

FRONT TIRE Maxxis Ikon 29x2.2"

REAR TIRE Maxxis Ikon 29x2.2"
 
What do you guys know about powder coating?

I'm thinking of getting a Giant Reign X powdercoated, single tone.

I would have the place do the stripping/degreasing, but I would take off all the bearings and shock and bolts before hand

Anybody have experience putting decals on a bike? Can I just get outdoor vinyl and stick it on when its clean? Does it have to be clear-coated afterward? How durable is powdercoating? If anyone has experience PLEASE fill me in with what you know! thanks
 
Looking at a 2013 KHS 6500 650B stock except for tires, which have been swapped for Hutchinson Toro tubeless for $2400. Can anybody offer a recommendation for or against?
 
Sorry if someone asked this before, I didn't browse the entirety of this thread.

Any experiences with going from a 26er to 650b/29ers? I am going to get a new bike this season (something I can actually pedal uphill while sorta shredding downhill) and some 29er enduros caught my eye. I have read plenty about cornering and them not being as "playful" but any personal experiences would be awesome.
 
13410756:*TURBONERD* said:
Looking at a 2013 KHS 6500 650B stock except for tires, which have been swapped for Hutchinson Toro tubeless for $2400. Can anybody offer a recommendation for or against?

What are your plans for your new bike? That KHS doesn't look bad, but I'm curious what you're looking to do with your new bike.

13410914:TrickyDick470 said:
Sorry if someone asked this before, I didn't browse the entirety of this thread.

Any experiences with going from a 26er to 650b/29ers? I am going to get a new bike this season (something I can actually pedal uphill while sorta shredding downhill) and some 29er enduros caught my eye. I have read plenty about cornering and them not being as "playful" but any personal experiences would be awesome.

The Enduro 29 is definitely a playful and exceptionally capable bike for a 29er. 155mm of travel and 29 inch tires make that bike able to handle just about any trail.

If you don't want the 29er, then why not just get a 650b Enduro?
 
13411128:division.bell said:
What are your plans for your new bike? That KHS doesn't look bad, but I'm curious what you're looking to do with your new bike.

The Enduro 29 is definitely a playful and exceptionally capable bike for a 29er. 155mm of travel and 29 inch tires make that bike able to handle just about any trail.

If you don't want the 29er, then why not just get a 650b Enduro?

I've got my racing bike (a simple but effective tubeless KHS Yuma with a Stan's tubeless setup and wider handlebars), but at this point half the things I do when I go to bike parks I'm doing at half the speed I'd do on really any full suspension bike. My line selection's definitely improved, but the Yuma isn't built to take serious hits and there's a point where the geometry makes things a little terrifying. I'm also planning on moving West after I graduate from college, where a versatile bike would make more sense. However, a true gravity bike doesn't interest me.
 
13411121:division.bell said:
What?

What's the problem with QR?

You do realize that the SID has a QR as well right?

the sid xx is a through the picture is a bit hard to tell but i would like to have both through axels instead of one through and one QR also through axels are a lot more durable...
 
13399817:Carl_the_Llama said:
Haha for sure!

Nice! I think that would probably be the kind of bike setup I would want; DJ/street for messin around, and some sort of dh/xc/all mountain for trails and dh... Not sure how my DJ is gonna hold up at the bike park aha...

Never responded but yeah I'm pretty pleased. Ended up converting the bike over to single speed for chain security on the hard tail rig. If I were to do it over again, I'd probably look for a more pedal friendly freeride bike that I can still bomb downhill stuff. The DH bike just doesn't get used as much as it did in college and most bike parks don't require a dual crown fork. It is bullet proof though which is a nice peace of mind when riding, but i pay for it on the single track.
 
13409988:stupendous-man said:
If anyone wants a brand new size large TLD D3, I have one for $180 + shipping. Bought the last size in stock and it turned out to be too small (always try on a helmet in a shop before you buy it, kids). I'm only asking what i bought it for plus shipping. just throwing this out there before I return it and lose $30 on return shipping.

I'll probably end up shipping it back like friday, so hop on this. they usually go for $250-300+
 
13411409:*TURBONERD* said:
I've got my racing bike (a simple but effective tubeless KHS Yuma with a Stan's tubeless setup and wider handlebars), but at this point half the things I do when I go to bike parks I'm doing at half the speed I'd do on really any full suspension bike. My line selection's definitely improved, but the Yuma isn't built to take serious hits and there's a point where the geometry makes things a little terrifying. I'm also planning on moving West after I graduate from college, where a versatile bike would make more sense. However, a true gravity bike doesn't interest me.

Well I'm not too familiar with KHS in general, but the 3500 doesn't look too bad on paper. I generally gravitate towards a slightly slacker headtube angle (67-68.5) combined with a seattube angle that is within 2-3 degrees max of my headtube angle for my bikes, but that's just me.

Though for a two year old bike, you should be getting a much better deal than only $400 off MSRP in my opinion.

Are you looking at anything else? Loyal to KHS? Stuck on a specific wheelsize?

13411423:kbonr said:
the sid xx is a through the picture is a bit hard to tell but i would like to have both through axels instead of one through and one QR also through axels are a lot more durable...

Your original post said you are already running a 15mm through axle QR on your oem Recon fork.

:kbonr said:
any suggestions, the rear axle is through but the front is a QR so i'm thinking of changing the currant fork to the rock shox sid xx

heres the current spec list any advice would be appreciated

FORK RockShox Recon Gold Solo Air 120mm Tapered QR15
 
13412198:division.bell said:
Your original post said you are already running a 15mm through axle QR on your oem Recon fork.

my bike is completely stock as of now... the RockShox Recon Gold Solo Air 120mm Tapered QR15 is a rick Realese not a through axel... I'm looking into upgrading to the sid XX and going tubeless, i don't really know where you confused haha

anyways you seem like you know quite a bit about bikes, could you suggest any upgrades? i know I'm going to change my front fork to the sid xx unless I find something i like better and ill run tubeless but what else should i upgrade on it?
 
13412198:division.bell said:
Well I'm not too familiar with KHS in general, but the 3500 doesn't look too bad on paper. I generally gravitate towards a slightly slacker headtube angle (67-68.5) combined with a seattube angle that is within 2-3 degrees max of my headtube angle for my bikes, but that's just me.

Though for a two year old bike, you should be getting a much better deal than only $400 off MSRP in my opinion.

Are you looking at anything else? Loyal to KHS? Stuck on a specific wheelsize?

Your original post said you are already running a 15mm through axle QR on your oem Recon fork.

I'm not looking at anything else specifically, but I'm by no means fixated on this bike and am quite open to any recommendations. I'd like to go either 650b or 29, preferably the former for greater versatility.
 
13412207:kbonr said:
anyways you seem like you know quite a bit about bikes, could you suggest any upgrades? i know I'm going to change my front fork to the sid xx unless I find something i like better and ill run tubeless but what else should i upgrade on it?

Tubeless should be your first and foremost upgrade. I dropped almost a full pound on my Enduro just with that.

What kind of riding are you doing? Like are you trying to drop weight or improve performance or what? Theres always a "bigger and better" component out there, just trying to see what you think you need or what you feel should be improved.

Cause if you're upgrading for the sake of upgrading, don't. You have decent enough components in my opinion. Your riding wont improve that much, just go ride and if you feel like something is actually holding you back, then think about upgrading.
 
13412278:JuliusJ said:
Tubeless should be your first and foremost upgrade. I dropped almost a full pound on my Enduro just with that.

brb, going to get a big bottle of stans right now...
 
13412501:B-runge said:
brb, going to get a big bottle of stans right now...

Just to clarify, it was .73 of a pound if i remember right, so yeah I did round up to "almost a full pound" haha. But seriously, you can run a lower psi and you drop weight for a relatively very cheap upgrade/swap. (Not a weight weanie, just was curious how much weight it actually would save.)
 
13412549:JuliusJ said:
Just to clarify, it was .73 of a pound if i remember right, so yeah I did round up to "almost a full pound" haha. But seriously, you can run a lower psi and you drop weight for a relatively very cheap upgrade/swap. (Not a weight weanie, just was curious how much weight it actually would save.)

After converting my Farley I think most bikes in my future will be tubeless. Of course it's an extreme example, but the 2.29lbs of rotating mass that has been shed has taken an awesome bike to a whole new level. It rips so hard over everything now, and I think I might be faster on it compared to my normal XC bike. I'm also going to start some testing running laps with lower pressures, all the way down to maybe 6psi which would be pretty tough to do tubed
 
If anyone ever wants to ride anywhere near the capital region of New York pm me, I'm always riding XC, DJ and DH (although not the last 2 in our area unfortunately).
 
13412278:JuliusJ said:
Tubeless should be your first and foremost upgrade. I dropped almost a full pound on my Enduro just with that.

What kind of riding are you doing? Like are you trying to drop weight or improve performance or what? Theres always a "bigger and better" component out there, just trying to see what you think you need or what you feel should be improved.

Cause if you're upgrading for the sake of upgrading, don't. You have decent enough components in my opinion. Your riding wont improve that much, just go ride and if you feel like something is actually holding you back, then think about upgrading.

i want to take my bike from more of a cross country bike to a more 'fun' enduro like bike... I've already looked into going tubeles and i will do that when i upgrade my front fork, but i was wondering what upgrades i can do that will make my bike more fun over drops and gnarly shit but still able to perform on the uphills

eventually i would like to build a bike with a nomad frame but for now i just want to have fun on the bike i currently have
 
Aha okay so nobody freak out here because I think everything is okay. Basically I started into the 'low' tire pressure testing tonight with the Farley and dropped the pressure from 10psi to 8psi (dead on with a Schwalbe digital gauge). I rode a pretty hard and fast 12km on my favourite city XC track.

When I got back I checked the pressure and had about 7.4pis in the front and 7.0 in the rear. With that there was a decent amount of sealant boogers coming from the rim and tire bead. They were all dirty however and I'd imagine they happened early in the ride. I'll check tire pressures in 24 hour on my recovery ride with some buddies, but I'd imagine they'll stay the same.

Basically I think it took a ride at lower pressures to get a really good seal. I'll try a ride at 6psi sometime as well and see what happens. With that I'll probably top the sealant up sometime soon with an ounce into each wheel.

I have no clue how relevant any of that might be to a bike with normal sized wheels and tires though.
 
13413190:NinetyFour said:
Aha okay so nobody freak out here because I think everything is okay. Basically I started into the 'low' tire pressure testing tonight with the Farley and dropped the pressure from 10psi to 8psi (dead on with a Schwalbe digital gauge). I rode a pretty hard and fast 12km on my favourite city XC track.

When I got back I checked the pressure and had about 7.4pis in the front and 7.0 in the rear. With that there was a decent amount of sealant boogers coming from the rim and tire bead. They were all dirty however and I'd imagine they happened early in the ride. I'll check tire pressures in 24 hour on my recovery ride with some buddies, but I'd imagine they'll stay the same.

Basically I think it took a ride at lower pressures to get a really good seal. I'll try a ride at 6psi sometime as well and see what happens. With that I'll probably top the sealant up sometime soon with an ounce into each wheel.

I have no clue how relevant any of that might be to a bike with normal sized wheels and tires though.

I don't understand why you would want to ride a bike at less than 10psi anyways. That sounds like 0% pedaling efficiency. Even for a fat bike. How did it ride?
 
13413266:ThaLorax said:
I don't understand why you would want to ride a bike at less than 10psi anyways. That sounds like 0% pedaling efficiency. Even for a fat bike. How did it ride?

Yeah pretty sure thats for when you ride snow or sand and stuff... not just trails. I wouldn't want it that low at least
 
13413266:ThaLorax said:
I don't understand why you would want to ride a bike at less than 10psi anyways. That sounds like 0% pedaling efficiency. Even for a fat bike. How did it ride?

Really well, definitely just playing around with pressure to see what I like for singletrack/XC. I'm a fairly small guy at 145lbs so I can definitely get away with a lower pressure setup. Things had been running pretty good at 10-12psi but I'm dialling it down just to see what it's like. So far so good though, I think I did more no pedal no brakes (aha not because the tires are down) than I ever have, the traction is absurd.

Rolling resistance didn't feel bad either, I took it for a cool down rip on the road and spun it out and it felt really fast. If I'm not having issues with my bead sealing then I might consider dropping down even more, the around 8psi range I'm in now though is pretty much what I ran this winter with tubes. But yeah these pressure changes I'm doing are fairly drastic considering the volume of air in these tires.

With all the hype I've gained from riding my Farley, I've definitely got it in my head that my next mountain bike will be 27.5+. It just seems like such a Goldilock sizing to me, the best of everything. Plus there's also the potential to run standard 27.5 or 29er setups. What's not to love?
 
13410914:TrickyDick470 said:
Sorry if someone asked this before, I didn't browse the entirety of this thread.

Any experiences with going from a 26er to 650b/29ers? I am going to get a new bike this season (something I can actually pedal uphill while sorta shredding downhill) and some 29er enduros caught my eye. I have read plenty about cornering and them not being as "playful" but any personal experiences would be awesome.

This year I went from an 26" to a 650b enduro. Before I bought it, I demoed 2 bikes from the local shop, one a 650b stump jumper evo and the other a 29 camber comp. I'll have to say that there wasn't a very noticeable advantage the 29er had over the 650b climbing-wise. But I could feel the 29er's disadvantage in mobility on the downhill. If you're looking for a bike to pedal uphill that will destroy the downhill the 650b enduro will not disappoint.
 
13413341:NinetyFour said:
Really well, definitely just playing around with pressure to see what I like for singletrack/XC. I'm a fairly small guy at 145lbs so I can definitely get away with a lower pressure setup. Things had been running pretty good at 10-12psi but I'm dialling it down just to see what it's like. So far so good though, I think I did more no pedal no brakes (aha not because the tires are down) than I ever have, the traction is absurd.

Rolling resistance didn't feel bad either, I took it for a cool down rip on the road and spun it out and it felt really fast. If I'm not having issues with my bead sealing then I might consider dropping down even more, the around 8psi range I'm in now though is pretty much what I ran this winter with tubes. But yeah these pressure changes I'm doing are fairly drastic considering the volume of air in these tires.

With all the hype I've gained from riding my Farley, I've definitely got it in my head that my next mountain bike will be 27.5+. It just seems like such a Goldilock sizing to me, the best of everything. Plus there's also the potential to run standard 27.5 or 29er setups. What's not to love?

Huh, I only weigh 110 and when I ride my tubeless bike around 20psi or less, I feel so damn slow on the flats and uphill. I still haven't found a tubeless tire pressure I like yet. I've never ridden a fat bike though, so it's a different story.
 
Anyone have any tips on cutting down a seat post? Need to cut like 2.5 inches off mine so I can put it lower for downhill
 
13413874:.lencon said:
Anyone have any tips on cutting down a seat post? Need to cut like 2.5 inches off mine so I can put it lower for downhill

Put it in a vice and use a hacksaw. Then debur the end using a file/grinder to round it off.
 
13413881:dmski said:
Put it in a vice and use a hacksaw. Then debur the end using a file/grinder to round it off.

Yep! With this don't clamp it super hard in the vice or you might make it out of round. It'd be preferable to use soft jaws or rag wrapped around it to so it doesn't dent it up.
 
13413345:Scotty_Boy said:
This year I went from an 26" to a 650b enduro. Before I bought it, I demoed 2 bikes from the local shop, one a 650b stump jumper evo and the other a 29 camber comp. I'll have to say that there wasn't a very noticeable advantage the 29er had over the 650b climbing-wise. But I could feel the 29er's disadvantage in mobility on the downhill. If you're looking for a bike to pedal uphill that will destroy the downhill the 650b enduro will not disappoint.

Awesome, thanks for the input (and division.bell too). I think that is what I will go with, and I'll keep my Demo for the lift accessed stuff. It's nice hearing some personal stories instead of the typical bike website reviews. +k
 
13413881:dmski said:
Put it in a vice and use a hacksaw. Then debur the end using a file/grinder to round it off.

Honestly it's the ugly end of a seat post, just hold it down with your foot and hacksaw away. Make sure its fits and boom. Doesn't need to be a pretty or straight cut, just needs to be around whatever length.

It ain't rocket science. Cutting bars you need yo be more careful though.
 
13412265:*TURBONERD* said:
I'm not looking at anything else specifically, but I'm by no means fixated on this bike and am quite open to any recommendations. I'd like to go either 650b or 29, preferably the former for greater versatility.

I wouldn't necessary cut the 29ers from your consideration for being less versatile. You'd be surprised at how nimble some of the 29" bikes have gotten these days. The 110-140mm range especially so. I know riders on Santa Cruz Tallboy LT's, Kona Process 111, Camber Evo's, Stumpjumper's and Stumpjumper Evo's, Ibis Ripley's. Those are among the go-to 29" bikes here in the greater PNW from what I've seen.

There are so many bikes out there these days, it's definitely overwhelming at times. Go hit up some local demo days and or borrow/rent/steal? some bikes to get some good ideas for comparison and what you need or want in your bike.

You have how many bikes now? What are you missing to really fill out that constantly growing stable of bikes to it's fullest? The perfect complement without overlap...

13412278:JuliusJ said:
Tubeless should be your first and foremost upgrade. I dropped almost a full pound on my Enduro just with that.

My Knolly Endorphin went from 30.08lbs to 29.28lbs converting from tubes to tubeless on Continental Trail King 26x2.4 Protections. I then dropped to 28.68lbs when switching to Specialized Butcher Control 26x2.3's setup tubeless. Tire choice can definitely save some weight as well. The other parts to drop weight cost more and don't net as large of weight reduction numbers to make it worth it some of the time.

...my bike is lighter than 28.68lbs now, but that's beside the point.

13412501:B-runge said:
brb, going to get a big bottle of stans right now...

Orange Seal yo.

13412582:NinetyFour said:
After converting my Farley I think most bikes in my future will be tubeless. Of course it's an extreme example, but the 2.29lbs of rotating mass that has been shed has taken an awesome bike to a whole new level. It rips so hard over everything now, and I think I might be faster on it compared to my normal XC bike. I'm also going to start some testing running laps with lower pressures, all the way down to maybe 6psi which would be pretty tough to do tubed

Glad to hear you are trying it at much lower pressure now! I haven't run anything lower than 6psi in front and 6.5-7psi in the rear with tubes for normal trail riding yet. Going to wait until I finally get the time to tape up my rims to go any lower.

13412655:kbonr said:
i want to take my bike from more of a cross country bike to a more 'fun' enduro like bike... I've already looked into going tubeles and i will do that when i upgrade my front fork, but i was wondering what upgrades i can do that will make my bike more fun over drops and gnarly shit but still able to perform on the uphills

The SID fork is NOT what you want for "fun' enduro like bike." The Pike is Rockshox's premier trail/all mountain/"like endurbro, yo" fork. It fucking kills and is pretty light considering the competition. The Revelation would be it's little brother more geared for hardcore XC riding, or lighter all mountain riding (enduro if you prefer that term) for those riders that are either on the lighter side, or just don't demand as much from their gear.

Do some research on what your bike can accept in regards to maximum travel of fork and evaluate what you want to do with your bike compared to the parts you are thinking of buying. What prompted the focus on the SID for your replacement fork? Your stock Recon is a better choice than the SID for the type of riding you wanted to do. Maybe putting the money you want to spend in upgrades towards a bike that's more oriented in the all mountain/"enduro" category would be money more well spent in the long run?

Just something to consider.

13413266:ThaLorax said:
I don't understand why you would want to ride a bike at less than 10psi anyways. That sounds like 0% pedaling efficiency. Even for a fat bike. How did it ride?

Fat bikes are best with tire pressures lower than 10psi. That's the point. Maximum traction and maximum flotation with ginormous tires.

Sure, there is definitely a noticeable rolling bounce if you have forceful and erratic pedal strokes. Which will happen on any given ride. But if you are cruising along on a paved trail or road at a good pace and pedaling smooth strokes, it is super smooth and a blast to ride. Really rides like no other bikes out there.

I definitely suggest to anyone that is even remotely intrigued by the idea to go to the nearest shop and just ride one. At least around the block, dirt would be better, but they are damn fun to ride anywhere you take them.

13413318:JuliusJ said:
Yeah pretty sure thats for when you ride snow or sand and stuff... not just trails. I wouldn't want it that low at least

I ride my local trails that I usually ride on my Knolly, with my Fatboy. Different feel, but I'm almost hitting the same speeds on a rigid 26x4.8 fatbike versus the 140mm 26" trail bike. That's with tire pressure ranges from 6-8psi front and rear.

Not something I want to ride everyday, but I do ride it on some local trails at least once a week.

13413874:.lencon said:
Anyone have any tips on cutting down a seat post? Need to cut like 2.5 inches off mine so I can put it lower for downhill

Cheap and clean way is to find a pipe cutter. Leaves a smooth and sharp edge, hit it with some light file work and you're good. I found a pipe cutter at Home Depot for less than $10 and have used it for 2 seatposts and 4 handlebars so far. Well worth the cheap investment and leaves a much better result than a hacksaw.
 
13413190:NinetyFour said:
Aha okay so nobody freak out here because I think everything is okay. Basically I started into the 'low' tire pressure testing tonight with the Farley and dropped the pressure from 10psi to 8psi (dead on with a Schwalbe digital gauge). I rode a pretty hard and fast 12km on my favourite city XC track.

When I got back I checked the pressure and had about 7.4pis in the front and 7.0 in the rear. With that there was a decent amount of sealant boogers coming from the rim and tire bead. They were all dirty however and I'd imagine they happened early in the ride. I'll check tire pressures in 24 hour on my recovery ride with some buddies, but I'd imagine they'll stay the same.

Basically I think it took a ride at lower pressures to get a really good seal. I'll try a ride at 6psi sometime as well and see what happens. With that I'll probably top the sealant up sometime soon with an ounce into each wheel.

I have no clue how relevant any of that might be to a bike with normal sized wheels and tires though.

13413341:NinetyFour said:
Really well, definitely just playing around with pressure to see what I like for singletrack/XC. I'm a fairly small guy at 145lbs so I can definitely get away with a lower pressure setup. Things had been running pretty good at 10-12psi but I'm dialling it down just to see what it's like. So far so good though, I think I did more no pedal no brakes (aha not because the tires are down) than I ever have, the traction is absurd.

Rolling resistance didn't feel bad either, I took it for a cool down rip on the road and spun it out and it felt really fast. If I'm not having issues with my bead sealing then I might consider dropping down even more, the around 8psi range I'm in now though is pretty much what I ran this winter with tubes. But yeah these pressure changes I'm doing are fairly drastic considering the volume of air in these tires.

With all the hype I've gained from riding my Farley, I've definitely got it in my head that my next mountain bike will be 27.5+. It just seems like such a Goldilock sizing to me, the best of everything. Plus there's also the potential to run standard 27.5 or 29er setups. What's not to love?

Fuck, I missed these somehow.

On a normal bike tire, you'll wash out in turns and or burp the tire off the rim at or below 20 for some people. I have yet to burp a tire, but I have washed out while rolling the sidewall at 19psi on my rear tire. A quick pump to 20psi and I never had the issue again. I am typically rolling 20-22psi in the rear and 23psi in the front it seems. I just inflate to the accuracy of the feel test trailside, ride and then check later.

If you lose that much pressure after a ride during your testing again, add some sealant (1oz each?) and pump them up to your rim's maximum capacity and spin and bounce those things around a while. Then let them sit overnight before deflating to your intended range.

Fatbike traction is addicting.
 
13414325:division.bell said:
I wouldn't necessary cut the 29ers from your consideration for being less versatile. You'd be surprised at how nimble some of the 29" bikes have gotten these days. The 110-140mm range especially so. I know riders on Santa Cruz Tallboy LT's, Kona Process 111, Camber Evo's, Stumpjumper's and Stumpjumper Evo's, Ibis Ripley's. Those are among the go-to 29" bikes here in the greater PNW from what I've seen.

There are so many bikes out there these days, it's definitely overwhelming at times. Go hit up some local demo days and or borrow/rent/steal? some bikes to get some good ideas for comparison and what you need or want in your bike.

You have how many bikes now? What are you missing to really fill out that constantly growing stable of bikes to it's fullest? The perfect complement without overlap...

I've only got the Yuma, then a carbon road bike and single-speed set up as a road bike. I'll definitely do some rentals, then, although I'll have to wait until fall because I doubt my employers will want me testing out new bikes while teaching children.
 
13414354:*TURBONERD* said:
I've only got the Yuma, then a carbon road bike and single-speed set up as a road bike. I'll definitely do some rentals, then, although I'll have to wait until fall because I doubt my employers will want me testing out new bikes while teaching children.

A capable and efficient trail bike would fit nicely in that stable.

Thing is, every brand is putting out at least one quality bike these days. It's hard to go wrong almost with all of the choices.

Demo, or borrow if you can. Sit on bikes in shops too to gauge the important fit questions like reach and stand over as those numbers will help selection as well.

You heading back to Oregon again this summer? There's a massive mountain bike festival 30 miles east of Seattle on June 6th at Duthie bike park if you can make it. Most manufacturers will be present with bikes to check out and demo on site. Fucking crazy day on the trails for certain, but a damn good time for anyone interested in life on two wheels.

And know that at least one major bike manufacturer has a big redesign coming soon for 2016's model year. Should be a good one. I'm saving my pennies already as I need a 29er...
 
13414496:division.bell said:
A capable and efficient trail bike would fit nicely in that stable.

Thing is, every brand is putting out at least one quality bike these days. It's hard to go wrong almost with all of the choices.

Demo, or borrow if you can. Sit on bikes in shops too to gauge the important fit questions like reach and stand over as those numbers will help selection as well.

You heading back to Oregon again this summer? There's a massive mountain bike festival 30 miles east of Seattle on June 6th at Duthie bike park if you can make it. Most manufacturers will be present with bikes to check out and demo on site. Fucking crazy day on the trails for certain, but a damn good time for anyone interested in life on two wheels.

And know that at least one major bike manufacturer has a big redesign coming soon for 2016's model year. Should be a good one. I'm saving my pennies already as I need a 29er...

Aren't there rumors that the Tallboy is getting a big redesign for next year?
 
13414543:saskskier said:
Aren't there rumors that the Tallboy is getting a big redesign for next year?

The new stumpjumpers are about to get a mega revamp I reckon.

And to all you guys worshiping Orange Seal, in my professional opinion Stans is still simply better. The Orange Seal clogs up your valves so eventually you can barely air up your tires. It's really convenient when you're at the trail head and don't have a floor pump.

Here's some riding pictures

Single speed assault on Grand Ridge back in March

eajek8.jpg


2a7tmhs.jpg


Rat Pac a few weeks ago

k0ocqb.jpg


x55urq.jpg


Tiger in the snow

1zp1fh1.jpg


abim2u.jpg


Stripped the paint off my Devinci last week, I'll post some pictures when I get the Hope brakes installed

Also going to attempt Kachess Ridge next week, best trail in the greater Seattle area I think.
 
13414496:division.bell said:
A capable and efficient trail bike would fit nicely in that stable.

Thing is, every brand is putting out at least one quality bike these days. It's hard to go wrong almost with all of the choices.

Demo, or borrow if you can. Sit on bikes in shops too to gauge the important fit questions like reach and stand over as those numbers will help selection as well.

You heading back to Oregon again this summer? There's a massive mountain bike festival 30 miles east of Seattle on June 6th at Duthie bike park if you can make it. Most manufacturers will be present with bikes to check out and demo on site. Fucking crazy day on the trails for certain, but a damn good time for anyone interested in life on two wheels.

And know that at least one major bike manufacturer has a big redesign coming soon for 2016's model year. Should be a good one. I'm saving my pennies already as I need a 29er...

I am indeed in Oregon again, but not until the end of June, unfortunately. Thanks for the tip, though. I'll find something interesting to check out when I get a tour of the local trails from my Austrian friend here in Salzburg, and maybe a day at a bike park.
 
Man I wish I had the money to get an actual mountain bike. I'm currently using an old BMX racing bike to rip around the local trails. It's good for jumps and it's super light, but it is really uncomfortable to ride for long periods of time.
 
Some riding from this season thus far in SLC, UT. Lift service season is almost here boys!

[video]https://vimeo.com/126701981[/video]

"Bountiful B"

770056.jpeg

Beautiful jumps

770055.jpeg

Drop on Bobsled

770057.jpeg

First time riding pow on the bike
 
So i have the next 2 weeks off and i was planning on skiing and biking all around the NW, but i broke my foot a few weeks ago and cannot manage to get my foot into a ski boot without nearly passing out from pain. I also cannot walk well. But in an ironic twist i am 100% pain free while riding a bike.

Im planning on heading out to Gailbraith tomorrow and wanted a ride reccomendation from folks. Im usually at Tiger mt on the weekends riding OTG etc and single diamond stuff at duthie is at the top end of my talent level. Im looking for like a 3ish hour ride that is a good mix of flowy stuff, maybe some smaller jump lines, and generally just some fun stuff that i will feel comfortable riding my 2011 Stumpy FSR on(one of the first "enduro" type trail bikes).

Any other reccomendations on trail systems i should for sure check out in Oregon, Idaho, Washington, and BC would be awesome! And if anyone ants to get in a ride with me or let me crash on a couch, i can provide Costco amounts of alcohol. Im always down to find some riding buddies and share some cold brews.
 
13423285:californiagrown said:
So i have the next 2 weeks off and i was planning on skiing and biking all around the NW, but i broke my foot a few weeks ago and cannot manage to get my foot into a ski boot without nearly passing out from pain. I also cannot walk well. But in an ironic twist i am 100% pain free while riding a bike.

Im planning on heading out to Gailbraith tomorrow and wanted a ride reccomendation from folks. Im usually at Tiger mt on the weekends riding OTG etc and single diamond stuff at duthie is at the top end of my talent level. Im looking for like a 3ish hour ride that is a good mix of flowy stuff, maybe some smaller jump lines, and generally just some fun stuff that i will feel comfortable riding my 2011 Stumpy FSR on(one of the first "enduro" type trail bikes).

Any other reccomendations on trail systems i should for sure check out in Oregon, Idaho, Washington, and BC would be awesome! And if anyone ants to get in a ride with me or let me crash on a couch, i can provide Costco amounts of alcohol. Im always down to find some riding buddies and share some cold brews.

Definitely hit up Doug Jambor and/or Nick Yerger for Galbraith info; they're Bham locals.
 
13423408:*TURBONERD* said:
Definitely hit up Doug Jambor and/or Nick Yerger for Galbraith info; they're Bham locals.

Im not the NSA. I cannot just find people based upon their name alone. I appreciate the thought behind your response though haha

have you been to galbraith? any suggestions?
 
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