Unthreadworthy Thread

Don't know if this is the right place to ask but anyway..

Let's say I want to watch a movie on tv, i'm using my computer via HDMI. My laptops resolution is 1366x768 and tv has full hd res. If I download a movie that's full hd, will it look any better than normal hd?
 
If I presume that with 'normal HD' you mean 720P and with 'full hd res' you mean 1080P, then provided your laptop can handle it: yes it will look better much better.

Protip: if you choose to mirror displays, the TV will take on the resolution of your laptop screen and it will look bad. Choose extended desktop, or just output to the TV if possible, make sure that output resolution is at 1080P and you are good to go.
 
It depends on a lot of things actually, the quality of the source, the distance you sit from the tv, the tv itself, etc...

But in general 1080P > 720P if your display can handle 1080P.
 
Anybody able to identify this tripod head? presume it's just something cheap but I'm curious.

$(KGrHqEOKowE6)nT!1TIBRq3GYurIw~~60_58.JPG


Also got myself a glidecam, had some money lying around, even if I find out I suck with it I'll still be able to sell it for more than I got it, so that's a win, was about to get a wieldy based on all the positive reviews by everyone, but figured m&a hasn't been wrong once, so figured I probably should go for the glidecam.
 
glidecam designs other than glidecam are usually junk, especially the ebay chinese ones.

looks like a manfrotto QR system of sorts

 
Yeah that's the idea I get, but this seemed to be the exception, an exact copy of the glidecam other than having a carbon fibre tube and adjustable gimbal height. Still, people said it was thinner and I didn't wanna risk it.

Yeah that was my first thought, but there's a lot of cheap ebay copies, as you said, usually junk.
 
Light Craft Works MK II. That's what he'll tell you too... I have one and love it, and so does he and he loves it. I got the 77mm and then just got step down rings so I only have to buy one filter. I haven't had any vignette problems.
 
That tripod head looks a lot like a Manfrotto #3229 (Superseded by the #243RC) which is a actually a monopod head.
 
Yeah I figured out it was basically a 234rc, I'll probably just sell it with that as a title.

On another note, somebody taking a photo of exclusively the sky, asked me how to use the flash...
 
this will be my first full season filming and i was wondering if there are any essential lenses i should save up for over the summer. I have a t3i with a kit lens(18-55) and a 50mm f/1.8. Should i invest in anything else?
 
IMO keep your money(set it aside for lenses instead of wasting it on other shit) and when it comes to winter you'll discover what you need. I'm not a fan of the 50, for skiing especially, I'd much rather use the 18-55.
 
haha i kinda found that out trying to film late season rail jams, u need to be too far away, but it is great for getting crisp photos
 
Need some second opinions...

My 2tb raid is at about 1.9tbs. I need to back up my shit and then keep using my raid. I'm trying to decide between these three options:

1. Buy a new 2tb drive, take out my one of my raid drives and replace it with a new one, reformat and have an archive 2tb (probably attach it via sata on my desktop?)

2. Buy a 2tb or 4tb external drive, OWC mini stack is what im looking at and just dump my 2tb onto there. Thinking about a 4tb drive so in the future I can dump onto it again, 2tb external is $200, 4tb is $300.

3. Buy a 2tb or 4tb drive and put it in my computer via sata and dump onto it there. 2tb drive = $100 4tb drive = $180

For me, I thought #1 would be the best way to go but I think I'd rather just keep everything all put together on my raid drive and just dump the footage.

#2 seems like the "best" option, its more expensive than #3 but then I will have a drive I can hook into any computer and access. Doing option #3 basically means I can only access my archive from my desktop, which 99% of the time is what I will be doing but there is a small chance i might need to take the drive somewhere, or store is in a safer place, etc but is it worth almost double the price? I think I definitely want to get 4tb, I know they are less reliable but this will be a drive sitting on my desk, never actually in use.

thanks for the help guys
 
Evan, the only time I'd say the 4TB drive would be safe is in an external enclosure that isn't always on. For me, I have a bunch of "inactive" drives in my computer but they're always spinning. That would significantly eat down the lifespan to have it only being used once in a blue moon but always spinning if it was hooked to the computer
 
Been wondering for a while, why aren't they using lasers to focus lenses? you could focus in all situations, It'd be 100% accurate and the speed would be impossible to beat.
 
I'm wondering what lenses ski movies production use for shooting big mountain. I'm gonna need one of them soon. Is it any kind of telezoom ?
 
PBP, Level One, MSP, the big ones. I don't know exactly from where I'll be shooting, but if the skier is skiing the face of a big mountain, I will have to be pretty far. I remember this video on vimeo form I dunno which production house who simply zoomed out and you notice the cameraman is really, really far.
 
Agreed, but this tool is fantastic for teaching people like my mom to get comfortable with manual mode and see instantly what change occurs
 
src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/24331388?portrait=0" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen>

Embedded from mobile so hopefully it works....
 
That's what I was thinking about, +k for bringing it back.First shot is amazing. Might not need something that extreme but 250mm would do. Thanks you' all.
 
A huge benefit to shooting 16mm in the backcountry is the telephoto range you can get with Angenieux glass. The main reason I switched to a GH2 was because the tele reach is absurd. My Nikon 80-200 f4 is effectively a 320-800mm in crop mode. That, and the camera fits in my pocket, which is also nice for BC.
 
What's the deal with noise in etc mode? I've heard somewhere that it increases it as though you were increasing the iso by 3 stops, but doesn't seem to be the case from videos I've seen.
 
There is a slight increase in noise, but the GH2 has a relatively attractive noise pattern. Not the thick rainbow noise you see in most cameras; it's tight and monochromatic. Think film grain only uniform and less aesthetically pleasing. Besides, its so subtle that you can't really tell unless you're looking for it (or in certain extreme situations).
 
Mamiya 6 with 75mm lens for 600€. Really friggin' tempting. I've contacted the seller and hopefully I can stop by and try it out.
 
currently running os x 10.6 what should i upgrade to, i need 10.7 or 10.8 to run creative cloud programs
 
anybody here use fireproof safes? would be good for that extra reassurance for a hard drive, if a fire went down I'd literally lose everything, + there's other items that could do with not being destroyed if there was a fire. Anyone got any experience with them?
 
can anyone tell me the primary differences between the hd 1000 glidecam and hd 2000 and which would be better for me ( i have a t3i with kit lense and 50mm aswell)
 
i read this but my camera fits in both weight restrictions, and everything else is just dimensions, is the 2000 just for bigger cameras?
 
Also note you can get more than that on it. I got it balanced just above the limit, with only 3 quarters of the weights, and the post wasn't extended fully, although they may have been stating that for durability reasons or something, just to cover themselves, idk. All I know is it can take quite a bit more.
 
So I am interested in buying a Canon A1 and was wondering if anyone wants to help me with some lens research and building my lens quiver.

Telephoto zoom category:

Canon 70-150 F4.5 FD (52)-$25

CA07000007000.jpg


or

Canon 100-300 F5.6 FD (58)-$29

CA07007503999.jpg


or

Canon 80-200 F4 FD (58)-$37

CA07000007750.jpg


The 70-150 wouldn't leave any focal length gaps in my lens quiver, but wouldn't zoom as far. The 80-200 would zoom further, but would leave a 10mm gap, and the 100-300 would zoom really far, but would leave a 30mm gap and is a pretty long lens. Are there much of a quality difference in these lenses? What about how mugh ligh gets let in, etc.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

"zoom, prime, or both" category:

So I am definitely getting a Canon 35-70 F4 FD (52) as my general purpose zoom (or another similar non-canon model):

CA07000005250.jpg


However it looks to be somewhat bulky when compared to a:

Canon 50 F1.8 FD (52)-$21

CA06010400197.jpg


or a

Canon 28 F2.8 FD (52)-$29

CA06010400375.jpg


The 50 is considered a standard lens while the 28 is considered a wide angle, so which one would fit better in my quiver? Also quality is a consideration.

Since this camera is somewhat of a "classic", I would like to use Canon lenses, but if there is a better non-canon lens similar to the ones I am considering I would definitely take that into consideration. I will be purchasing on KEH.com and I do have a budget, so for telephoto, my budget is $40, for primes it is $30

Links:

Canon zoom lenses:

http://www.keh.com/search?s=1&bcode=CA&ccode=7&AB_ID=13937&r=AT

Non-canon zoom:

http://www.keh.com/search?s=1&bcode=CA&ccode=9&AB_ID=13937&r=AT

Canon Primes:

http://www.keh.com/search?s=1&bcode=CA&ccode=6&AB_ID=13937&r=AT

Non-Canon primes:

http://www.keh.com/search?s=1&bcode=CA&ccode=8&AB_ID=13937&r=AT

Thank you for any help
 
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