The answer to "what binding"

yeah from what ive read they sound like some pretty sturdy bindings. i think im gonna have to get some different brakes though since the ones with the bindings are 120mm. Question though, will 100mm brakes work for 100mm waist skis or do i need to get something wider?
 
so, i got a great deal on some coreupt born to drop skis (99bucks) they're a stiff charging freeride ski and i want to use it that way too, i want to be able to confidently rip straightlines and ski it hard and fast in crud, so my first idea was to go for marker jesters (i have 2 pair of skis with jesters and am very happy about it)but i have also been thinking about getting a touring setup for a long time now, and since the BTD's aren't too heavy they might be good for it ...

so my question to you guys, will a 125mm underfoot with big rocker in tip, camber underfoot and small rocker in the tail perform well in a touring rig ?

and since i want to be able to confidently put these babies through some hard work, what touring bindings do you recommend that will not explode on me ? (seriously, i want something bombproof, i've had too many bad experiences with bindings, i want something i can trust)

Or do you guys think it would be wiser to keep these dedicated to freeride and mount em with jesters and save some money while keeping an eye out for real touring skis with dynafit bindings and boots ?

cheers!

 
well the touring part is up to you, how heavy are they? the more rocker you have the less ski you have on the ground to grip the snow, so it would probably be helpful to measure your effective base with your weight on it.

as far as binding goes, you want something light but still bomber. very hard to find but from what i have seen, and more importantly played with. the solly guardian/atomic traccker looks like it will be the leader in the a/t market for a while. it provides that sturdy regular binding feeling, but still has touring capabilities.

there is also the mfd all time, i wouldnt recommend this if you really want to tour long distance, and I would not use it at all do to the added weight. this is probably going to be your most bomber choice.

Another question to ask is how much are you going to tour? and when you do what type of skiing are you looking for? when i toured(twice, so not to much experience) I didnt want to straight line to much since i wanted to get as many turns in as possible since It was quite a long hike I wanted to make sure I got my times worth. are you going to like it? how much will you get out?

if you are going for a regular in bounds binding I always recommend the pivot 18 since of the toe and it is what i use, the jester pro is also a good binder and you said you had good experience with marker bindings.
 
Just bought some new Armada JJ 185's. In looking for bindings, I found some new 2009 Dynastar PX 14's from a well known on-line outlet e-tailer for $129 (which seems like a good price). I ordered them this morning.

Is there any reason I shouldn't buy these 2009 Dynastar PX14 bindings (that are brand new in every other respect)?

For reference, I'm 6', 180 pounds, Type III skier. I would prefer the FKS 140's, but can't see paying more than double for them.

What an awesome thread this is! Wish I found it sooner.
 
^^^^ Never mind. Found some brand new 2012 FKS' on eBay for $239, and sprung for those. No future regrets on why I didn't get the bindings I really wanted...
 
I didn't want to make a new thread and cluster up the Gear Talk Forum, any ways my question is how far could i bend a pair of FKS breaks if they are at 80 now and need to fit around a 110 waist ski?
 
Probably. For a bend that big you'll want to disassemble the binding completely as per the sticky at the top of this forum, then bend them in a vice as you'll want to move the L in the brake (bend them straight then re-bend at a different point) rather than just splay them. Also bear in mind that the brake legs will be quite short.

My local shop bent some 115mm FKS brakes to fit 132mm Hellbents without disassembling but that's only a ~10mm bend on each side which left them pretty duck-footed whereas you're looking at 15mm a side.

If they're new-age FKS, just hit up Rossignol for new brakes as you'll be pulling the heel apart either way.
 
I'm looking for a binding to go with Candid Yard 2012.I'm skiing in Norway/French Alps, I go pretty much anywhere, and like to throw 180 or 3's on 15/20 feet jumps and straight airs on 50 feet jumps (max so far). I do not do rails. I hit all kind of slopes. So i'd say 50/25/25 park/slopes/off-piste

I'm 27 years old, weight 80kg (176 lbs) for 1.85m (6").

Here are the bindings suggestions on the online shop :

PX12 JIB 2012

FKS 140 L (ORANGE FLUO) [2012]

NX12 JIB BLACK 2012



Thank you for your advice :)

YARD [2012] + FKS 140 L (ORANGE FLUO) [2012]

YARD [2012] + FKS 140 L (ORANGE FLUO) [2012]

YARD [2012] + FKS 140 L (ORANGE FLUO) [2012]

 
how hard would it be to bend look pivot xxl brakes (115mm) to fit a 125mm ski?and what should i get ? 14 Din pivot for 170euro or 18 din pivot for 200 euro ? i ride at din 10-11....
 
I ski my p18's at 11 and have no issues. So I would recommend those the metal toe is worth the extra money.
 
still weighing my options for a pow binding, my current allround quiver is a pair of coreupt TJ schiller park skis and a pair of Line EP pro fatties, both mounted with marker jestersnow i was thinking of either getting another pair of jesters(or any other binding) for my coreupt Born to drop (charging pow ski, 125mm underfoot just like the EPP) or, what recently came to my mind was to install quiver killers on all 3 pair ...

i travel a lot with my skis so being able to remove bindings or take 3 pair with just 1 binding would be a huge advantage ....

so my question is: are QK's as good as they say they are and are they suited for what i'm planning to do with them? which is travel entire season from place to place with 3 pair of skis and 1 or maybe 2 pair of bindings ? and also, how easy is it to swap bindings on a pair of QK mounted skis? doesn't the threadlocker make it a pain in the ass to swap ?
 
how's the durability on 11/12 marker dukes ?they're priced the same as jesters and i was thinking of getting these ....

i want to charge hard on this ski, not just freeriding, but stomping and making it suffer, so i want something bombproof (wont be doing much switch either) are the dukes ok for this ?

cause i'm really scared of breaking it (had bad experiences with bindings in the past and now i want something bombproof)

real life respect and some +k for people who can inform me !

(the reason i was thinking about this is because i was gonna get jesters but the jesters are priced the same as the dukes and the idea of tour skiing had been in my head for quite a while now)
 
When it comes to AT bindings, I'd rank them as follows:

MFD Alltime + STH/FKS > Guardian/Tracker > Dukes > Baron > FT

But that's just my take on it. Personally I can't see any compelling reason except perhaps pricepoint to go for a Duke over a Guardian. The stand height on the Duke just erks me a bit, it's like skiing on oldschool lifters.
 
yeah, well, any of the 'better' options like MFD, guardian or tracker are easily gonna be double the $$ of the dukes ...

+ i was going to go for jesters (16 or 18, only 10$ difference and 18 looks bombproof) then i saw that the dukes were priced the same, so i thought i should maybe go for a touring rig, simply because i can ... :)
 
You'll sacrifice a fair-bit of on-piste performance with the huge increase in stand height on the Duke, in my opinion. My other opinion, with regards to the Jester Pro, is that a little bar between the toe-wings does not an 18-DIN binding make...
 
The duke is a tried a true binding for someone who wants to ski on piste and venture in to the backcountry. The guardian did look and feel better IMO. Rozboon: have you skied on the guardian yet? If not why do you talk so highly of this binding.
 
A friend of mine got a pair early through various channels, he's very hard on gear and after about 90 days on them he's had nothing but praise for them. I've also physically held and checked out a pair and as you say they just look and feel better. Yet to ski them though.
 
Double post, my bad....

If you go through the full-size Royal line (Griffon, Jester, Jester Pro) and look at what changes as they step up each level, you'll see what I mean...

Griffon: Plastic housings, plastic toe wings, plastic "A-frame" on the heel, plastic track, mobile AFD, 12/13 DIN Spring

Jester: Plastic housing, metal toe wings, metal "A-frame", plastic track, mobile AFD, 16 DIN Spring

Jester Pro: Plastic housing, metal toe wings + little bar between them, metal "A-frame", plastic track, fixed AFD, 18 DIN spring

As far as I'm aware the 18-DIN toe is fundamentally the same as the 12-DIN Toe, and again in my opinion there's just too much plastic involved for a binding that's expected to take the sort of punishment it will get from a rider who needs more than ~14 DIN. I broke 3 pairs of Jesters, and it was never the metal bits that failed, always the plastic.
 
k, now it's clear :)yeah i'm also not sure if the bar on the pro makes that big of a difference :/

anyways i'm very happy with my jesters, so i think i'll stick with em ....
 
This is my first year getting in the park and I don't know if I should mount my bindings at true center or a little bit back. I still plan to do some all mountain stuff, not only park. Any advice?
 
skis?

are your skis already mounted? if they are I wouldnt remount them, if you are buying new skis that are symmetrical then I would center them.

If you are buying skis that are no symmetrical, I would mount at core center, which is usually the recommended mounting point.

center mounted skis will not make your park skiing skills that much better.
 
then I would mount them at center, that is where the ski is designed to be mounted at by the manufacturer, it should ski fine outside the park except that it is a very soft ski.
 
I've been thinking about bindings lately and the name of this one completely escapes me. What binding is it that the rear detatches from the ski for backcountry hiking. you know, the one that takes up like almost the entire ski??? knaaaw mean?
 
Will a 12 DIN binding suit me?- I'm 6' 1", 165 lbs.

-I ski completely park

-I'm a level 3 skier

-I don't hit really big jumps, probably 40 feet is as big as it gets.

-I hit a lot of rails

-I have 186 Filthy Riches

-28.5 boots

thank you to whoever helps me.

 
Not all 12 DIN bindings are created equal. There are some that would probably be OK for you - Salomon STH12 and Look PX12 (aka Axial2 120 I think) spring to mind. A Marker M12 Free however, would not suit you, in my opinion. A Griffon should be OK.

I'm loosely assuming you're skiing on a DIN around 8 or 9.

Personally, if I were you, I would go up to a 14 DIN which means you get into bindings like the Pivot/FKS 14 and the STH 14 Driver/Atomic FFG 14 Team which have more solid components and more metal in their construction.
 
Thank you very much. I wsa leaning more towards a 14 din because I probably will be getting bigger, and it's not like I need to go into the top limit. Thanks again for the help, I will look into those bindings!
 
couldnt have said it better myself.

I really like the px 12, except for the shitty plastic brake system. I broke 3 brakes off this year luckily I have a ton of rosi brakes in my basement.

 
hello ns, I just got my pair of 164 el reys and really dont have a clue what bindings to put on them. Im 5' 11" and 145 pounds, also pretty new to park. is there anything i could get for like $150 or less?
 
bindings are not something to cheap out on.

That being said, without knowing your ski level and bsl it is hard to pinpoint an actual din range, but I would say a binding like the look px12 or the marker jester should fit well since, they go up to 12 din and pretty low also.
 
I think you mean the Griffon there ;)

PX12 is the go-to budget binding in my opinion. Tough, reliable, decent performance. The brakes are the weak link but they're cheap and easy to replace. They're $109 on evo at the moment.

If you really want to go budget, and you won't be using the skis for too long, you could do a LOT worse than the Look PX Team, DIN is only 3-10 but it's the same design as the PX12 and for $77 from evo they're pretty sharp for a super-low-budget binding.
 
IF you don't mind second-hand bindings, the FKS155 is definitely worth a look for you.

Otherwise, I'd probably lean towards the STH14 Driver/Atomic FFG14 Team (same binding) in your position.

The toe on the 14 DIN turntable bindings is pretty good though, despite being plastic.
 
Given that he asked the question well over a year ago, I would say he would have worked something out by now...
 
Okay so i am in a situation here. i just got moment night trains in may and have yet to purchase bindings. ive been told to look at rossignol fks's, and thus years new model of marker bindings. and thgats basically it. any advice for me? im a pretty aggressive skier as well.
 
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