Official Ski/Binding Maintenance Thread

13398055:SteezOnSkis12 said:
Ok so I have some skis, waxed once and now they are getting white streaks on the outsides of the bases. Does this mean I need to wax?
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Most likely, if your skis are in good condition and don't haven't taken any massive impacts -e.g. cracked edges due to rails/trees or delams- a simple coat of wax will get rid of that. It simply means your bases are thirsty. IF you have had some sort of impact, it could be the base delaminating or air/water getting in there, BUT you would know if that has happened, don't worry. If your skis are essentially still skis, it is just wax.

Hope I didn't scare ya ;), if you post a picture or two I'm sure any of us can verify it for you, but I want to emphasize that it is unlikely a delam.
 
13404623:K.Breit said:
Most likely, if your skis are in good condition and don't haven't taken any massive impacts -e.g. cracked edges due to rails/trees or delams- a simple coat of wax will get rid of that. It simply means your bases are thirsty. IF you have had some sort of impact, it could be the base delaminating or air/water getting in there, BUT you would know if that has happened, don't worry. If your skis are essentially still skis, it is just wax.

Hope I didn't scare ya ;), if you post a picture or two I'm sure any of us can verify it for you, but I want to emphasize that it is unlikely a delam.
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Haha I actually waxed em and now they are looking brand new again... thank you for the response anyway
 
is there any basic maintenance i should be doing on my bindings? i just got a new set this past season and want to keep em good for a while
 
13440197:akt416 said:
is there any basic maintenance i should be doing on my bindings? i just got a new set this past season and want to keep em good for a while
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Not really, dont wanna mess with a lot because they lube em up and stuff
 
I think I have to adjust my forward pressure on my Griffons as my boots wiggle when in the bindings, not really sure how to do this. Any tips?
 
Anyone know if 5 minute epoxy can be used for core shots along the edge? I usually use metal grip and a soldering iron, but my friend has a massive 12 inch by one inch gash next his edge on his rock skis and we don't know if it is really worth it to use so much metal grip for beater skis.
 
13486556:JakeSmith said:
Anyone know if 5 minute epoxy can be used for core shots along the edge? I usually use metal grip and a soldering iron, but my friend has a massive 12 inch by one inch gash next his edge on his rock skis and we don't know if it is really worth it to use so much metal grip for beater skis.
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Might be a little late, but I'd go for the metal grip. I'd also think it would be cheaper than buying 5 minute epoxy as that will run around 10 dollars and a few sticks of metal grip and p tex will be around the same price. Depends on how much time you want to put into it I guess, but one would give a better result I would think.
 
13479665:jackdonovan said:
I think I have to adjust my forward pressure on my Griffons as my boots wiggle when in the bindings, not really sure how to do this. Any tips?
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On griffons the forward pressure indicator is the crew to adjust the binding found on the back of the heel piece. The way to adjust to the proper pressure is; Click in your boot, adjust screw in or out until screw is flush with plastic on the end of the boot, once you unclip your boot you will see the screw be pushed back outside the plastic.

The second issue you may be having is that you wore down your toe on your boots, if this is the case you need to adjust your AFD. Best way to do this is to put a business card on your AFD, click in your boots (Without you in them), and try and remove the business card, should be difficult but possible with out ripping, if it rips or if it comes out very easy then adjust accordingly. (To adjust use the screw at the bottom of your toe piece to raise or lower.
 
13539396:freddy.allport said:
On griffons the forward pressure indicator is the crew to adjust the binding found on the back of the heel piece. The way to adjust to the proper pressure is; Click in your boot, adjust screw in or out until screw is flush with plastic on the end of the boot, once you unclip your boot you will see the screw be pushed back outside the plastic.

The second issue you may be having is that you wore down your toe on your boots, if this is the case you need to adjust your AFD. Best way to do this is to put a business card on your AFD, click in your boots (Without you in them), and try and remove the business card, should be difficult but possible with out ripping, if it rips or if it comes out very easy then adjust accordingly. (To adjust use the screw at the bottom of your toe piece to raise or lower.
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i think it is the AFD as i already adjusted my forward pressure and theres still wiggle, thanks for the help man, going to adjust the AFD now, +k
 
Hopefully someone can help me out here.

I got a pair of FKS bindnings that I would like to get some feedback on.

The last guy (which I don't trust at all) that mounted the bindnings told me they were snapped, however he still mounted them.

On one of the bindnings the "forwardpressure-tab" goes under the turntable, I guess this is wrong. The turntable is higher up than the white-tab.

Are these bindnings fixable/broken/ok?

Sorry for the bad pictures, only have my phone at the moment.

Here's an Imgur Album:http://imgur.com/a/GEVef

Thanks in advance.
 
I have recently started to hit a lot of rails and doing that pre-winter on the east coast meant my brakes sometimes got bent and torqued as I landed funky off of the rail. Now everytime I go skiing one of the pair of brakes are snapped in half and gets caught in the snow landing switch and my other ski's brakes are always digging into the ground regardless of how much I bend the back with a sawed off ski pole. So should I just drop money I don't really have to buy bindings or is there a good way to fix this.
 
13624592:Cons said:
I have recently started to hit a lot of rails and doing that pre-winter on the east coast meant my brakes sometimes got bent and torqued as I landed funky off of the rail. Now everytime I go skiing one of the pair of brakes are snapped in half and gets caught in the snow landing switch and my other ski's brakes are always digging into the ground regardless of how much I bend the back with a sawed off ski pole. So should I just drop money I don't really have to buy bindings or is there a good way to fix this.
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Get new brakes. Unless they're FKS it's not a big deal.
 
Guys, please tell me your opinion:

I have several skis and all of them have mounted FKS/Pivot 14 bindings for BSL 317mm.

In all cases installation of bindings was made in ski-service of shops (large specialized ski-shops) where I bought skis.

This winter I ski on Chetler's with Pivot 14, everything is perfect, but when I closely look on bindings I found that metal bars on the heel have little different lenght on the left and on the right sides of them.

Some my other skis also have this effect but in smaller size and some skis haven't it.

1)Why I have this issue?

2) This is normal situation or no?

3) What affect I can from this situation on my bindings/boots/skis/riding?

4) Do I need to correct this in ski-service?

See pic:

800x600px-LL-7aa3018d_DYN0289-ONECOL_D2_zps6fdo4sq8.jpg
 
I would expect them to be the same length, unless your boots are really worn on one side or something.

If they're only a millimetre or so different, no big deal. If they're considerably different, yes, I would get it corrected, as it will mean the heel is on a slight angle which will pre-load the forward pressure and reduce elastic travel, if only very very slightly.
 
I've encountered an odd issue with a pair of new skis (with bindings). I'm using the Tyrolia Attack 13s and the brakes seem to be bent and crooked. They're not bent to fit the ski, it seems like the whole thing is sort of off axis. I noticed it when I got some air, landed, and spun out. The brake was/is now dragging in the snow on both skis. but only on one side (outside brake on both skis is bent down so it drags). I'm thinking of clamping them down and twisting it to a normal shape but I have no access to either tools or a decent ski shop that could help. Any thoughts?
 
Thanks for reply, now everything is clear with these bars and I have another question:

If FKS/Pivot 14 are correctly adjusted for current boots/BSL is it normal that ski-brakes have some movement (very little lift up and down) when skier try to move boot/heel up and down (of course when foots with boots are set in bindings)?
 
13628168:Videogroove said:
Thanks for reply, now everything is clear with these bars and I have another question:

If FKS/Pivot 14 are correctly adjusted for current boots/BSL is it normal that ski-brakes have some movement (very little lift up and down) when skier try to move boot/heel up and down (of course when foots with boots are set in bindings)?
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Yes, that's relatively normal with FKS, as long as it's just a very small movement.
 
Does the forward pressure on the FKS and Pivots even effect release? I was at jay peak in Vermont last season and I was experiencing slight movement and the guys at the shop there just tightened it until my boot wouldn't let it. I assumed they knew what they were doing and went with it. It fixed the movement problem and I have yet to noticed any change in release either. Could he not just do the same?
 
Could you please explain what and how guys in shop do for treat this issue? Thx!

Also I read info from manufacturer that Pivot/FKS have 25mm vertical elasticity of the heel, may be DIN 7 for me is not enough for me and because I can see this effect.
 
13635092:MCwiseman said:
Does the forward pressure on the FKS and Pivots even effect release? I was at jay peak in Vermont last season and I was experiencing slight movement and the guys at the shop there just tightened it until my boot wouldn't let it. I assumed they knew what they were doing and went with it. It fixed the movement problem and I have yet to noticed any change in release either. Could he not just do the same?
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Ok, starting with my usual disclaimer, doing dumb stuff with forward pressure will cause your tibias to turn into macaroni and a kindergarten kid will make a shite picture frame out of them.

I've had a play with FKS180 on a bench with everything from nowhere near enough forward pressure to way too much.

If it's too loose, then when you flex forward the heel of the boot will lift, which allows the brake to start to drop. They still release fine at the toe - just it takes less force to get out because your toe lug will pop out before the toepiece fully rotates.

As you increase the forward pressure past optimal, all it does is starts to eat up the elasticity in the heel and toe. The toe piece actually starts to rock forward on the lobed cam that provides the vertical toe release. Eventually you will (theoretically) max out the forward pressure spring, and then you will have a horrible time getting them to release at the heel - but I have a feeling the forward pressure spring travel is the same or longer than the maximum adjustment on the heel. The toe will still release, but takes considerably more force than the indicator, and the binding generally behaves like shit.

All of this said, it's only at the extremes of the range that this happens. Like most bindings you'll still get a reasonable release with a pretty ham-handed forward pressure setting, you may just pre-release a bit more if they're too loose and the energy transmission will be compromised because your boot is slopping around... and if you're just a little too tight, your release force will be slightly higher than the indicator, but if you're riding FKS180's you're probably not too worried about this.

Everything is different on the 120/140, the toepiece behaves quite differently.
 
Guys, If ski-master found that screws that mount bindings to skis (heel pieces in my case) not tighten enough (they were mounted 2 years ago in shop where I bought it) and he little tight it now it is right decision?

It is usual practice in ski-service to tight screws if found that they are not tight properly?

Do I need to check toe-pieces and also little tight it if it is possible?

Thanks in advance for replies!
 
Strange thing to be checking, unless it was so bad that the binding was moving on the ski.

I would be inclined to remove the screws completely, apply new glue and carefully reinstall. When they "nip" the screws up it will break the bond between the glue, the core and the screws which may allow water to get into the core.
 
Hey everyone!! i need some help.

I have a pair of SFB's with salomon guardians on them, which was great when i did my backcountry stuff. But now i dont have time due to new job to go and find powder stashes on the resorts. I have a pair of old salomon STHs binds that i was thinking of throwing of my SFBs

My qyuestions is would i have to drill new holes?? or would it be a easy swap??

please help
 
13871790:VTwintips said:
What kind of Epoxy have you guys used for Binding Freedom inserts?

Will this be okay?
https://www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-adhesives/products/plastic-bonder-syringe

Thanks.
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I wouldn't touch jb weld. Go with west system, hardman, system three, etc. Aka a real epoxy resin, ideally with a longer cure time than five minutes if you really want to be sure they won't pull out. Classic jb weld might be fine, but I've never run inserts without a good epoxy so I'm not sure how well the screw holds on it's own. Hardman double bubble is good if you want something under $10.

13876757:tomatonater said:
Could a heat up and bend marker 90mm brakes to fit a 98mm ski, or should I just go with the 110mm?
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I'd go with 110, your ski will probably be closer to 100mm at the location of your brake.
 
Honestly, don't be concerned about your DIN it's not that important

-Eriks, Service Manager Bill

**This post was edited on Jan 12th 2018 at 1:27:02pm
 
13908233:andy9127 said:
How can you tell if you've done a good wax? Just done it for the first time but no idea if I've fucked it up
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Post pics of it and we can give feedback. Normally, If the bases dont look streaky and they are nice and smooth they're probably pretty good.
 
Already skied on them once but they didn't look too streaky after. They look quite streaky after a day's skiing on them. The wax has turned white in a lot of places. I'd attach a photo if I knew how
 
13909113:andy9127 said:
Already skied on them once but they didn't look too streaky after. They look quite streaky after a day's skiing on them. The wax has turned white in a lot of places. I'd attach a photo if I knew how
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Did you scrape em after waxing? If you did they should be fine, if not you need to go visit youtube
 
In regards to storage waxing, do you guys leave wax over your edges or scrape it off before summer storage?

I've read that most say to leave wax over the edges for storage... but i've also heard a Toko service guy say to scrape off any wax on the edges because storing the skis with wax over the edges traps air in with the steel edge and oxidizes it. What do you guys do and how do your edges look the following winter?
 
13922968:Big-Poppa said:
In regards to storage waxing, do you guys leave wax over your edges or scrape it off before summer storage?

I've read that most say to leave wax over the edges for storage... but i've also heard a Toko service guy say to scrape off any wax on the edges because storing the skis with wax over the edges traps air in with the steel edge and oxidizes it. What do you guys do and how do your edges look the following winter?
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I have some shitty swix wax my dad bought 20+ years ago I use for storage. Layer it on thick - not Kim K thick but dont dial it back too far to J Law territory, find the sweet spot in-between. As for the rest, no scrape (ruins the whole damn point of storage wax) and you can go on edges or not. I dont scrape the edges but I'm also lazy as shit so maybe its just me.
 
922366.jpeg

Is this black piece necessary for my these bindings? I was trying to set the forward pressure but the little white tab wouldn't move at all on these rossignol fks bindings. Is it fine to ski with it like this or will I die?
 
13990941:OCoffey said:
View attachment 922366

Is this black piece necessary for my these bindings? I was trying to set the forward pressure but the little white tab wouldn't move at all on these rossignol fks bindings. Is it fine to ski with it like this or will I die?
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Correct me if I'm wrong but the white tab is only an indicator. Even if the tab is misaligned your forward pressure could still be OK (or not).

____________

I need some help with FKS/Look as well.

I'm getting some new sticks and now when the bindings are off I want to make sure they're alright.

See pictures.

My biggest concern is the broken wing. Should I replace it? Is it even possible to replace?

I guess the two other cracks are only cosmetic? Also, I found out that one of the half moons is snapped in the screw hole, this needs to be changed right? Highly appreciate a somewhat quick reply since I need to mount these soon.

**This post was edited on Feb 13th 2019 at 6:50:53am
 
13999219:Hogis said:
Correct me if I'm wrong but the white tab is only an indicator. Even if the tab is misaligned your forward pressure could still be OK (or not).

____________

I need some help with FKS/Look as well.

I'm getting some new sticks and now when the bindings are off I want to make sure they're alright.

See pictures.

My biggest concern is the broken wing. Should I replace it? Is it even possible to replace?

I guess the two other cracks are only cosmetic? Also, I found out that one of the half moons is snapped in the screw hole, this needs to be changed right? Highly appreciate a somewhat quick reply since I need to mount these soon.

**This post was edited on Feb 13th 2019 at 6:50:53am
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I rode a pair with a broken wing like that for half a season with no issues.....that's just my experience though. So yours might be different.

I found a toe piece on tgr for like 20 bucks and unscrewed the wing from that when the wing eventually shattered completely. Easiest fix I've done
 
13999329:Profahoben_212 said:
I rode a pair with a broken wing like that for half a season with no issues.....that's just my experience though. So yours might be different.

I found a toe piece on tgr for like 20 bucks and unscrewed the wing from that when the wing eventually shattered completely. Easiest fix I've done
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ive broke off a wing and i was releasing all day when i spun or somthing, can you show how to get the wing off? i would just use other toes.
 
14015339:WIZBANG said:
ive broke off a wing and i was releasing all day when i spun or somthing, can you show how to get the wing off? i would just use other toes.
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There is a screw underneath the wing that let's it come off
 
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