Official Ski/Binding Maintenance Thread

If to have calipers to measure it would help. On most non kids skis the bits drill 9.5 mm into the ski, so you are looking for the screws to protrude 7-9 mm from the bottom of the binding. Too little and they might not bite and pull out. Too Much and you'll bubble your bases
 
I'm sure this has already been posted but how do I take bindings off of skis? Just unscrew them? Do I need a drill or anything? Or should I just take them somewhere to get them taken off if I don't know what I'm doing?
 
makes sure your teeth are properly sharpened and tuned, then just gnaw your ski off the binding
 
When waxing your skis, does it matter what temperature the room should be at? last time i waxed my skis it was in the 60s in think. now that it is 30, does it matter if i wax my skis in my un-insullated garage, or do i need to do it inside?
 
works better inside because it's easier to warm your skis up properly and let the wax spread out and saturate the bases, however with a bit more patience it can also be done in the cold .....
 
When I was skis I base clean them and then hit them with a heat gun to dry off the excess base cleaner/ warm up the skis. Then wax.
 
pores of the ski open up and are most absorbent when warm. Which is why high end skiers have their own hotbox in their garage. So yes, better warm them up!
 
Not a good idea dude.

Waxing at room temperature is ideal but don't sweat it too much if you have to do it outside. You'll need to set your iron a little hotter but be careful.
 
I know what I'm doing I've been a ski tech for 3 years now at one if the most reputable shops in vt, and skiing my whole life. I keep it moving fast an its on the lowest setting, it's primarily to dry the base cleaner off the ski, not to heat it up, but it happens to do that too a bit. I also was inside in the shop when the the skis are already warm 99% of the time. I appreciate your input but I feel like you think I'm blasting the skis with the heat gun and not moving it at all haha.
 
This is why I don't come on here much anymore, everyone knows everything already.... All you need to do to get the base cleaner to dry is wipe it off and hit it with a heat gun for about 10 seconds running it down the ski, obviously not cooking the base. If the iron doesn't damage the ski a heat gun on low def won't haha. Waxing skis really isn't rocket science, most of us here ski park, it's not like we are racing.

I have waxed literally hundred if not thousands of skis this way and never burned a base. So I think it is fine but you are welcome to your opinion and can wait 20 minutes for the base cleaner to dry on its own idc lol, we are a busy shop and sometimes a customer doesn't want to wait that long
 
its called a hot scrape. Using a base cleaner doesn't just clean the base, it dries the SHIT out of the base. A swix rep once told me that if you use a base cleaner, you should wax at least 5 times in a row after because it sucks all the moisture out and you need to re hydrate. Just do a hot scrape and don't use base cleaner.
 
Yeah sorry dude, you're misinformed. "Base cleaner" isn't for cleaning bases before waxing. The only time you should use it is in localised areas as base repair prep.

And a guy in a shop I worked at warped a snowboards with a heat gun once.
 
This is simply not true.... And of course the swix rep told you this he wants you to use more wax! Also.... In a busy shop do you think there is time to hot scrape 30-50 Pairs of skis in a day? No way. A hot scrape does do a pretty good job but if there is any greasy nasty shit on the bases base cleaner is necessary. Lets face it, most of us aren't World Cup skiers. We ski park.... I think lots of the people here would be lucky to even wax once every 10 days lol. And we are doing it not to get the fastest possible base but to preserve base health (ie hydrocarbon wax). If waxing skis for someone who will race competitively on them I would certainly wax them differently than I would my own equipment. Food for thought

http://www.slidewright.com/weblog/ski-snowboard/waxing-ski-snowboard/base-cleaning-hot-scrape-or-cleaner/
 
"Wax (or base cleaner for that matter) only penetrates a very small amount into the base, about 15 microns and only where random voids exist. 15 microns is a very small measurement (1% or so of base thickness~15 to 20 microns is about 0.0006 to 0.0008 inch). How can base cleaner possibly “dry out” the base if it only penetrates 15 microns? The answer quite simply is it doesn’t. Base cleaner, or at least Maplus base cleaner is basically detergent dissolved in a solvent. The solvent almost entirely evaporates and the detergent works to properly clean the base. When you take your dirty car to a car wash do you wax it first or clean it with detergent and then wax it? I’ve tried both and the later definitely seems to work better."
 
The grind @ mount snow.....and it isn't "my" shop, I just work here. When we tune skis the grinding emulsion and ground off edge material are all over the bases, making it necessary to hit them with base cleaner. The grinding emulsion is oil, which probably isn't good to wax into the skis.

Also, I should note that everything I say is my own personal opinion, not the opinion of mount snow as an entity. I think we will have to agree to disagree on this one, but I really don't think that base cleaner is as detrimental as you say. Also.... On the heat gun thing, I know people who have burned bases using wax irons, and you aren't saying those are bad are you?
 
Hey fellow NSer's The front 2 screws holding the heel piece of my binding have been yanked out from the ski. I have gotten my local ski shop to fix this three times now, but nothing seems to work. What should I do?
 
Either remount them in a different spot or get a shop to use helix coils. They are metal inserts that the binding screws bite into, that's what I would do
 
This is remounting question involving a previously mounted Marker Jester Schizo binding. So I had an old pair of suspects mounted at true center with Marker Jester Schizo's and my friend needs a park ski. I will give him the skis but I am wondering how close to center he will be able to safely mount the ski with Marker Griffon bindings (I removed my Jester's and mounted them on my new skis). I am not sure if the Schizo has a weird screw pattern due to the base plate that moves.
 
Hey guys, I ripped out part of the tail edge of one of my skis, about 10cm is pulled out. Is there any way to fix this?
 
I have an old pair of Rossignol Axial Pro 120's with the pivot heel (not the turntables these ones
3110.jpg
) and I want to know if the brakes are replaceable or are like the fks when you have to buy them with the right size brake or bend the brakes.
 
Easy to replace, I think it's 1 screw?

Just make sure the shop doesn't get them confused with PX's or Axial2's or Pivots because I think they have a specific brake. My shop accidently ordered PX brakes and they didn't fit my Pivot Jib, which is the same as the Axial Pro 120 unless I'm rather mistaken.
 
As far as forward pressure goes on a pair of Salomon STH12 Drivers goes, just wanting a double check here...

I've clicked in my ski boot and adjusted the heel piece so that the heel track screw's head wasn't flush with the back of the heelpiece. I then removed the boot, clicked it back in, and repeated this process, slowly turning in that screw until the head of it was flush with the heelpiece. That's the proper setting for those binding's forward pressure, right?

Thanks!
 
Heya peeps, quick remounting question that didn't warrant a thread.I'm looking to remount my brothers old Lizzies that have holes for a 29.5 dalbello boot at true center for marker griffons. Can i re use the front holes so long as i get griffons and will I be able to mount for a size 26 nordica boot without worrying about the old holes?
 
Yeahhh put two and two together after posting that actually, do i still need to match with griffons to avoid changing drill patterns?
 
I was just at goodwill doing my usual skiblade/gaperday/random deal shopping and I found some old fks (were they called that back then? trivia noob here only been skiing 2 years) bindings on some race skis for $25 total... I was gonna get them because i need some bindings for my new joysticks. They looked identical to the new fks other than the toepeice with didn't appear to allow as much lateral release, similar to this (not my pic):

613068.jpeg

So are these safe to use? My first conclusion was no, but just checking....
 
well they may be safe but they are really old so probably not. I can tell you that its going to be very hard finding a shop that will mount those or do a function test to see is they are in working order. If i were you i would just spend some extra cash to get a newer pair.
 
can anyone say for certain if heating fks brakes before bending them will decrease the chances of them snapping. I only have one shot at this so i want to do it right
 
just take it slow and you will be fine. i raged and bent one super fast when i couldnt get it to bend where i wanted to, needless to say it snapped.
 
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