Official Ski/Binding Maintenance Thread

Mounting question... Hardware for the entire Salomon Driver family is the same for the 12,14,16 besides the extra heel screw on the 16 right? Need to order a hardware kit on BindingFreedom and the STH 12 Driver isn't listed, and I've never owned 14's or 16's. Thanks!
 
Just got new boots. Anyone want to coach me through forward pressure adjustment on px bindings so that I can fit them to my new boot size?
 
Hey so I got some fks 185 and they have a 4mm raiser on them. So if I want to mount them without the raiser I'm sure I would have to get shorter hard wear right? Can I just pick those up at my shop or do I need to order them from somewhere?
 
Because i dont want to get sued. Google it, Its not hard. Keywords half yellow half black, pretty sure. but google

Or go to shop and have stoned tech do it.
 
Haha I know what the gauge is supposed to say. Hell Ive done it with bindings with screws before. I just dont know what to do with the damn tabs haha. But ill do some googlin.
 
Don't have my new ones yet but I own a pair of STH12 Drivers. Just don't know if they use the same hardware as the STH12's with the Z toe, or if they share the same hardware with the STH14,16 Drivers :S

Will check the hardware on my bindings though and do some googling to see what the Z bindings are using and what the higher din drivers are using. Imagining that I'll need the driver hardware.
 
What kind of glue are you guys using to fix cracked edges? I've tried epoxy but it just doesn't seem strong enough, I need to replace it after every ski day.
 
slow curing epoxy is probably your best bet but in reality there isn't that much you can do to fix it decently ... Are they just cracked or also (partially) ripped out ?

And where is the problem area? underfoot ?
 
Depends what you mean by cracked edges... if you mean it in the conventional sense, i.e. a hairline crack in the metal edge, then gluing it isn't going to do anything as the edge bends and it will just pull apart as it slightly expands when bent.

If you mean sidewall cracks, or sections of edge coming out, then a good epoxy is the way to go... but if you're not mixing it right or letting it cure properly then that's half your problem.
 
I'm sure my shop has the breaks for them. I think they are a look dealer. If not, I've got a pair of STH 14 Drivers I can throw on them.
 
when you got your bindings did they come with two sets of screws? my fks' came with risers and another set of longer screws. I dont use risers but if you only have the screws for the risers, you will need to get a shorter set of screws or you'll end up with 8 holes in the base of your skis. go to your local shop (if they carry rossi) and they should be able to get you the proper screws.
 
Yeah sidewall cracks, between the edge and the wood horizontally. I want to glue it off so no water will go in to the ski. Maybe i'll just have to find some stronger epoxy then.

thanks.
 
if it's for sealing purposes, don't look for 'stronger' epoxy, get a more flexible and waterproof epoxy, ie. slow curing (=flexible) marine grade (=waterproof) epoxy...
 
Ok thanks i talked to a guy at my local shop and he said the raisers wont really make a huge difference and it will help to flatten the ramp angle
 
Err, wut? Unless I'm very much mistaken the risers are the same height at the front and the rear, hence no effect on ramp angle. They just get you up off the ski a bit, can't remember the exact logic behind it off the top of my head. But for park/freeride skiing, lower is better.
 
Yeah i know he gave me some other raisers that are alittle bit shorter on the heal. Raisers give you more leverage over your edge. Its only 3-4mm so i dont think i will even be able to notice them.
 
so short heels and taller toe pieces? that sounds terrible for park. what dude said above, the closer your boots are to the ski, the better performance you'll have in the park
 
It's 1mm I really don't think it will make a huge difference. You can get more of a difference from worn down boot soles or snow between you bindings and boots
 
Some turntables come with risers, some don't. Mount with no risers to be close to the ski with some ramp. Mount both risers to be higher off the ski with some ramp. Mount just the toe risers to have less ramp. Ramp is a good thing, in my opinion.
 
just has to do with ramp angle on the pivots. I personally have mine mounted with risers since I want to be able to control ramp able with my boots not my bindings. so level is good.

plus a little higher stack height isnt a bad thing on all skis, it will allow easier edge to edge on a fatter ski.
 
Not sure if this is the right thread, but I just wanted to know if this is even serious, and what I could do to fix it.

Sorry if the picture quality sucks:

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you could try p-texing it your self but if your base is exposed then take it to a shop and have them base weld it. the gun does a much better job.
 
Can't really tell from the pic but is that just a real good coreshot by the edge of the ski or is the sidewall snapping off? If it's the former, you just need a good base repair, the latter you need some real good epoxy work done and you can expect the ski will massively shit itself in the next dozen or so days riding.
 
It's really hard to tell from the photo exactly how bad it is... if it goes to the core, that's kinda bad.

Patching is where you actually cut a square/strip of base material out of the ski and replace it with a new piece of ptex which you then epoxy into place then knock flush with a file. Done properly it's just like a die-cut base like you see on many skis these days. It's a job for a tech who knows his shit though, as you're literally chiselling bits off your ski.
 
Some shops, depending on techs, will grind the screws shorter instead of sourcing different hardware. Sturtevant's in Bellevue did this for me a few years ago when I didn't want to mount a pair of Axial2's with the included riser. They didn't charge me for the extra work and I had no problems with the mount, or the hardware even after several remounts on other pairs of skis.

 
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