Official mountain biking thread

14623241:partyandBS said:
im going to floyd hill this afternoon when i get off work
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MIght try that out this weekend, anything within 30 min of me is dry dry dirt and just closes usually, or very easy to rut out
 
14622682:Rock_Inhabitant said:
Drivers ed may be the most boring thing I’ve had to do this year. They had an acronym called OPDE, which stands for observe, predict, decide, execute. this is literally how any living creature makes a decision. like this is nothing new, why the fuck do I need to do this for 30 hours
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i need 2 sets of flats lol
 
Gonna give CX a try this fall. Found a dope '96 Cannondale Killer V in amazing condition and am currently crossifying it. Swapped out the original 550mm bars and 130mm stem for something a bit more modern, and found what seems to be the only set of 26" CX tires in existence. I will provide pics when it's all built up
 
14623659:GayWolf420 said:
What are some good climbs and fun downhill/flow trails around Winter Park?
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trestle has free uphill passes for the summer road if you sign their wavier and put the wrist band on your bike
 
Been making a bunch of different adjustments to gloves, grips, and lever position, but still getting wrist pain as soon as I’m on the back brakes hard. Should I mess around with the bar height next? It does take significantly more pressure to engage the back brakes, but this is a brand new bike ridden maybe a dozen times so the brakes shouldn’t need bleeding yet right? Not sure if I can adjust the bite point on these. Never had this issue on any other bike so just at a loss on what to do next.
 
my dh has a rooted sticker on it from the original owner who used to race for rooted/specialized. so now people see it, tell me its a sick bike, and then watch me be a total bitch boy around turns lmao. super stoked on the setup. the bike does rip and finally getting into some rowdier terrain. pretty fuckin hyped on biking lately.
 
14623986:nCrow said:
Been making a bunch of different adjustments to gloves, grips, and lever position, but still getting wrist pain as soon as I’m on the back brakes hard. Should I mess around with the bar height next? It does take significantly more pressure to engage the back brakes, but this is a brand new bike ridden maybe a dozen times so the brakes shouldn’t need bleeding yet right? Not sure if I can adjust the bite point on these. Never had this issue on any other bike so just at a loss on what to do next.
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Get stronger??
 
Could this be a legit hand/wrist strength issue? This is my first summer on a mountain bike in like 4 years, but been on plenty of bikes in the meantime although not braking like you would going downhill on a mtb trail

14624159:ski_salmon69 said:
Get stronger??
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14624175:nCrow said:
SRAM level T
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Dude that's your problem, Levels are notoriously weak brakes. Even something like the 4-pot Deores would be a step up. If you wanna spend a bit more the Formula Cura 4's are nearly as good as some of the top-tier brakes (Dominion's, RSC's, etc) but a good bit cheaper
 
Ah yup that makes sense good to know. I was like I swear it’s not me it’s the brakes that feel weird. They’re just the ones that came with this bike and I’m still learning about parts since getting back into the mtb world

14624181:treebeard said:
Dude that's your problem, Levels are notoriously weak brakes. Even something like the 4-pot Deores would be a step up. If you wanna spend a bit more the Formula Cura 4's are nearly as good as some of the top-tier brakes (Dominion's, RSC's, etc) but a good bit cheaper
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14624177:nCrow said:
Could this be a legit hand/wrist strength issue? This is my first summer on a mountain bike in like 4 years, but been on plenty of bikes in the meantime although not braking like you would going downhill on a mtb trail
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Possibly, I started doing some wrist/grip strength workouts and i did notice a difference. But braking technique is probably more important, brake hard less often rather than just dragging the brakes the whole way down
 
CX bike is ready! 1996 Cannondale Killer V500. Skinny tires wide bars lots of beer

**This post was edited on Aug 23rd 2024 at 5:29:35pm
 
14623329:GANDALF said:
who needs parts? I have a bunch of shit lying around i need to offload.
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Any DJ components? I need everything except frame, fork, rims, saddle, tires, and brakes

14623986:nCrow said:
Been making a bunch of different adjustments to gloves, grips, and lever position, but still getting wrist pain as soon as I’m on the back brakes hard. Should I mess around with the bar height next? It does take significantly more pressure to engage the back brakes, but this is a brand new bike ridden maybe a dozen times so the brakes shouldn’t need bleeding yet right? Not sure if I can adjust the bite point on these. Never had this issue on any other bike so just at a loss on what to do next.
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Could be from a lot of things. Stem length, stem height, bar rise, bar backsweep, your saddle could be in the wrong position if you notice most when seated... or it could be as simple as having shitty brakes/levers
 
14624557:BigPurpleSkiSuit said:
I really am enjoying the feeling of progression on a mountain bike and it is also very scary because I know how bad the falls can be.
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Bro especially on tech trails I was hauling ass on this trail yesterday and I just got this same thought in my head that if I would fell I was gonna be really messed up. Just gotta point it straight and let the bike eat
 
i put a narrow trail tire on the DH and ripped it in about 5 rides. what a stupid fuckin gaper. [tag=1388]@skierman[/tag] plz confirm
 
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i have maybe 10 hours on this new crankset and the threads are shot. what the fuuuuuck. the last ones i assumed were from seized pedals but maybe not. I feel like the crank metal should be harder/stronger than the pedal ones but wtf do i know
 
14625217:SendyMcSendyface said:
Jesus. What cranks/pedals are those?
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sram xo1 and deity pedals. both brand new and installed by a shop and pretty sure i wasnt being a fuckin gaper about anything but maybe? this is my second set of xo1s that are shot at the pedal insert since buying the dh.
 
14625223:BigPurpleSkiSuit said:
Rode PC for the first time, wow fun place really cool trails
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Transit Laps off of the Purple Bus Route. Park at the top of Guardsman's near the Montage and there's some good stuff. Ride into town and take the bus back up. It kicks ass.

**This post was edited on Sep 1st 2024 at 2:27:17pm
 
14625219:partyandBS said:
sram xo1 and deity pedals. both brand new and installed by a shop and pretty sure i wasnt being a fuckin gaper about anything but maybe? this is my second set of xo1s that are shot at the pedal insert since buying the dh.
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I'd be giving sram a call if you can dude, especially since it was done by a shop, that isn't normal at all.
 
Has anyone tried out a 22” BMX?

21”< tt frames are like 500 and very hard to get a complete, thinking about a fit series 22 but dunno if I should get that or a fit TRL 2XL.

22” wheels sound kinda dummy fun, but worried about shit like grinds, spins, etc… even though I mainly do dirt and bowls. 6’3 btw
 
14625524:muffMan. said:
Has anyone tried out a 22” BMX?

21”< tt frames are like 500 and very hard to get a complete, thinking about a fit series 22 but dunno if I should get that or a fit TRL 2XL.

22” wheels sound kinda dummy fun, but worried about shit like grinds, spins, etc… even though I mainly do dirt and bowls. 6’3 btw
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Go big or go home 24" is the move (I've never rode one I just think they're sick)
 
14625524:muffMan. said:
Has anyone tried out a 22” BMX?

21”< tt frames are like 500 and very hard to get a complete, thinking about a fit series 22 but dunno if I should get that or a fit TRL 2XL.

22” wheels sound kinda dummy fun, but worried about shit like grinds, spins, etc… even though I mainly do dirt and bowls. 6’3 btw
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my experience is that the geometry is made to be much less aggressive with the bigger wheel frames. so the 24” rims tend to be almost cruiser like so its a lot more effort when in a skatepark, on dirt jumps, etc. idk about the 22” rims.

also, most parts are made for the 20” so could pose as a struggle for rims and forks. i’m a similar height and go with the 20” and do a longer top tube at 21” and some higher bars at 9.5” rise
 
14625594:partyandBS said:
my experience is that the geometry is made to be much less aggressive with the bigger wheel frames. so the 24” rims tend to be almost cruiser like so its a lot more effort when in a skatepark, on dirt jumps, etc. idk about the 22” rims.

also, most parts are made for the 20” so could pose as a struggle for rims and forks. i’m a similar height and go with the 20” and do a longer top tube at 21” and some higher bars at 9.5” rise
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Yeah 24” are definitely more cruiser like, 22” are also kinda niche but on the come up. Local shop says the geo is basically a bigger 20”, and not trying to be a cruiser.

heard they are pretty sick on dirt, but also love other aspects of BMX where 20” is better most likely.

already have 21” frame plus 10” bars, GT fueler is what I’m lookin at to upgrade, maybe fit series 22.

of course I could just keep both bikes.
 
if i have a few loose spokes and take it in and say i want it trued is that a different process as retentioning it?? i busted a spoke, took it to

a shop and said i wanted the spoke replaced and trued. then the next ride i busted another spoke and some of the other ones were basically guitar strings. so i got a new hoop laced up but feel like i shouldnt have needed to.
 
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also i often think about what i would do if there was an active shooter and i was thinking if you could sneak up on them and put this over their head/neck it would suck so fuckin bad and buy people time to get away hopefully.
 
14626561:partyandBS said:
if i have a few loose spokes and take it in and say i want it trued is that a different process as retentioning it?? i busted a spoke, took it to

a shop and said i wanted the spoke replaced and trued. then the next ride i busted another spoke and some of the other ones were basically guitar strings. so i got a new hoop laced up but feel like i shouldnt have needed to.
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"I want the spoke replaced and trued" So they replaced the spoke and made sure your wheel was straight so no need to check the other spokes' tension. They did what you asked and now you're complaining they didn't do more? You're just too fucking stupid to check your own spokes for tension which you should be doing anyways.
 
I agree with skierman. If you bring me a wheel and say “replace a spoke and true” that’s what I’m going to do. If you say retension i’ma do that. Talking to mechanics is like conversational programming. You gotta be specific.

14626660:skierman said:
"I want the spoke replaced and trued" So they replaced the spoke and made sure your wheel was straight so no need to check the other spokes' tension. They did what you asked and now you're complaining they didn't do more? You're just too fucking stupid to check your own spokes for tension which you should be doing anyways.
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14626660:skierman said:
"I want the spoke replaced and trued" So they replaced the spoke and made sure your wheel was straight so no need to check the other spokes' tension. They did what you asked and now you're complaining they didn't do more? You're just too fucking stupid to check your own spokes for tension which you should be doing anyways.
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14626688:BallClapper said:
I agree with skierman. If you bring me a wheel and say “replace a spoke and true” that’s what I’m going to do. If you say retension i’ma do that. Talking to mechanics is like conversational programming. You gotta be specific.
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i mean i hear ya but i would assume when trueing the wheel they would have noticed that they could play freebird with a few of the spokes and would have mentioned it and recommended tensioning for an additional fee. similar to how you bring your car in for an oil change and they tell you your struts are shot or something. plus their homies over there and seems like something they would mention. i will say i have brought multiple rims in and asked them to be trued when really i wanted them to be tensioned but i didnt know that was what i needed to be saying. I assumed truing the wheel involved checking each nipple.

the real root cause is that i think im so fuckin sick doing 180s and 360 tail taps on my DH and enduro all over the bike park lol. my 36 or 48 spoke 20" bmx rims handle it fine but a 32" 29er seems to be a bit more frail. i think spinning/pedaling backwards for fakie is what wrecked my DH crank threads but i really don't know. i would assume it could handle it and there are way way sicker dude out there throwing down harder without the same issues so idk.

guess im just a stupid fuckin gaper
 
To counterpoint, at my shop we would have at least said something. Whenever we get a wheel on the stand for anything, we will do a quick finger check of the tension of all the spokes.
 
14626729:SendyMcSendyface said:
To counterpoint, at my shop we would have at least said something. Whenever we get a wheel on the stand for anything, we will do a quick finger check of the tension of all the spokes.
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I'm a gaper like partyandbs so I would have assumed asking for a wheel to be trued would involve checking the tension on all spokes and tensioning if needed.
 
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