Official: Atomic & Salomon Shift 13 MNC Binding Thread
- Thread starter onenerdykid
- Start date
Non_State_Actor
Active member
So I just checked the adjustments on both pairs of shifts I own, my wife's and mine, one Salomon one Atomic, and forward pressure and AFD were both out of spec on both sets.
Did I get a shit mounting job? The "shop" I use most has a Wintersteiger test machine, I may have the printout with the release value test. As far as I can tell these bindings are not difficult to adjust, forward pressure and AFD are basically the same as on the Attack series. Any thoughts?
I haven't had any release issues but just wanted to verify settings after hearing about others with pre-release issues. Neither set has more than a few days on them.
Did I get a shit mounting job? The "shop" I use most has a Wintersteiger test machine, I may have the printout with the release value test. As far as I can tell these bindings are not difficult to adjust, forward pressure and AFD are basically the same as on the Attack series. Any thoughts?
I haven't had any release issues but just wanted to verify settings after hearing about others with pre-release issues. Neither set has more than a few days on them.
cagedgiraffe
New member
Hey there, I recently purchased the shift binding and had my first day out with the new bindings on today. Im a heavier dude (230lbs) and a pretty aggressive skier (coming from a race background). The bindings were acting a bit weird today and making a concerning popping sounds (felt like the toe was popping out then back in) when I would hit a big compression or torque the ski too much. Never pre released or anything it was just a concerning sound that wasn't overly confidence instilling. Hoping this is just me being ignorant on the inner working of bindings and something that can be fixed. Really appreciate any and all suggestions/advice! Thanks a lot!
Non_State_Actor
Active member
14000333:cagedgiraffe said:
Check the adjustment on the AFD? I"m not a shop tech or master of all things ski boot and binding related like some here but if the AFD is way off like mine was it could cause slop, especially vertical slop and may lead to the condition your describing.
When I checked mine after clicking in the boots the adjustment looked all good, but when you pull back on the boot there was a big gap. I just followed the pictorial Ikea style instructions included with the bindings. It specifically says to pull the boot when making this adjustment.
onenerdykid
Active member
14000703:Shl said:
You will need to do a little massaging of the brake arms and possibly some grinding of the plastic on the brake arms. I have 100mm brakes on my Backland 107s and they fit perfectly after doing this.
Non_State_Actor
Active member
14000725:onenerdykid said:
Same on 4frnt Kye 110. I think they'll fit the quest 106 out of the box.
postal_slime
Member
So now have put a decent amount of days on the shifts. They’ve been pretty good all and all. The AFD doesn’t stay in place, I did the suggestions Cody Townsend made over at TGR but after a few days of skiing, sometimes even just half a day, the AFD inevitably falls. I haven’t had any released due to this though.
Today though, I pre-released several times on the same slope...a steep slope on our final exit. Made me go head over heels into the snow and my thought was avalanche. This happened again right after clicking in and making 2 turns.
The AFD was adjusted properly, not really any play. Really weird, really concerning.
Still loving them tho.
Today though, I pre-released several times on the same slope...a steep slope on our final exit. Made me go head over heels into the snow and my thought was avalanche. This happened again right after clicking in and making 2 turns.
The AFD was adjusted properly, not really any play. Really weird, really concerning.
Still loving them tho.
Non_State_Actor
Active member
14001247:postal_slime said:
How's the forward pressure? Is it staying in adjustment?
postal_slime
Member
14001253:mystery3 said:
forward pressure hasn't ever changed, still lined up. i've definitely put the shifts through the ringer prior to this with no problems so this is the first incident.
i was hesitant posting about it but looking if anyone else had random pre-release problems..
So I've taken the plunge and bought a pair of Shifts. I'm going down the Binding Freedom inserts route and doing it DIY as I like to learn how to.
My ? is at 82 kg 5'9 and a fairly aggressive intermediate skier, where do I mount? Atomic Bent Chetler 100 172cm skis. On the recommended line or a few cm away from it? any tips appreciated.
**This post was edited on Mar 1st 2019 at 12:42:46pm
My ? is at 82 kg 5'9 and a fairly aggressive intermediate skier, where do I mount? Atomic Bent Chetler 100 172cm skis. On the recommended line or a few cm away from it? any tips appreciated.
**This post was edited on Mar 1st 2019 at 12:42:46pm
Non_State_Actor
Active member
14005969:n16dun said:
What ski? You can probably just make a thread outside this one with your particular mount point question.
SofaKingSick
Active member
14005969:n16dun said:
for the type of skiing i assume you're looking to do on Shifts, i don't see any reason to not mount on the recommended line. only possibility is if the ski just has a ridiculously far back recommended point and you don't like it quite that far back. but basically if you have to ask, go recommended i say
chicken
Active member
13994811:Mar-O said:
I have seen two of these come in now. One I personally mounted and one was from another shop. I am quite confident that I did not install the brakes incorrectly. I have mounted dozens of shifts and I always make sure that the brake is fully clicked in before putting it on the track.
I contacted Salomon and they said they haven't heard of this issue and it was probably an installation error, maybe they are just unaware of something?
Also at this point I do not recommend using Salomon's toe height adjustment method (the paper one). If you go a little bit tighter it seems to solve all toe slop/afd issues.
Mar-O
Member
14006028:chicken said:
What the fuck, this happened again today, on BOTH bindings. Still can't understand how though, anyone found out what the problem might be? Pretty scary as I almost lost one of the skis as I pulled the skins off and put the skis down thinking the stopper was down.. Some photos, anyone able to see anything wrong here?
aanev
Member
14008990:Mar-O said:
Didn't spot any differences - probably the new ones clicked harder. However, I didn't inspect them thoroughly because I didn't expect the problem to disappear at that point. I guess I should remove a heel and inspect it.
**This post was edited on Mar 7th 2019 at 3:11:40am
postal_slime
Member
14008807:Mar-O said:
My best guess is that the brake isn't fully engaged on the track. If the way your bindings are set for your boots is more toward the front of the track versus the middle or the back, the brake doesn't lock in and can get kicked loose.
I mounted mine for a longer 26.5 boot then tried making a short 25.5 work. doing this I had to adjust the binding farther forward on the track and too far forward, the heel piece would be fine and adjusted properly but the brake wouldn't be fully engaged with the track.
maybe check to see where you're at on that heel track.
Mar-O
Member
14009155:postal_slime said:
Thanks for the response! That would make sense, will check tomorrow if that can be the problem, but I think they are adjusted fairly far back. Was at the shop that mounted them today but they did not know what could cause the problem. But compared my brakes to some new ones they had and my pins was a bit rounded off compared to those so hoping that's the problem. Will try to post photos of the pins tomorrow.
cydwhit
Active member
14009301:chicken said:
Yeah, I had this issue initially. What would happen is that if I clicked my brakes together at all, they would pop down, then I would stomp on them to get them to lock back down, and if there was any snow in them at all, they would pop off. Had to run the track forward and slide them back on. The solution was only ever lifting the brake and locking it by hand, never stomping on it. Do that and you shouldn't have any more issues.
Mar-O
Member
14009155:postal_slime said:
Checked today and the bindings are fairly far back, mounted at the third line so I don't think thats the problem.
14009325:cydwhit said:
Thanks, was out skinning a bit today and only lifted the stoppers up and at least the stoppers did not fall off. However with wet snow like today it was really difficult getting the stoppers to stay up as snow would almost instantly get stuck under the stopper and it was almost impossible getting that snow away with only hands and no chance with gloves on so not exactly an ideal solution. Even if this is the problem I still think there must be some kind of production error on the stoppers that fall off as I feel everyone with shift bindings would have the same problem if not.
Here are some photos of the pins on my stoppers vs a brand new one. As you can see mine are a bit rounded off and docent have the same edge out. Mine are with the white background. Hoping I can convince the store I bought them from to send me a new pair of stoppers to see if that helps.
**This post was edited on Mar 8th 2019 at 2:30:37pm
BrawnTrends
Active member
Anyone knows where I can buy brakes for the Shift online? Other than skimo.co.
Planning on switching skis and I need brakes in 90mm (or 100mm) instead of the 110 I have now.
Stores in Europe would be best, as I don't live in the US. So far I've found nothing (except skimo)
I haven't asked the shops around where I live yet, wanted to check here if anyone knew first.
**This post was edited on Mar 9th 2019 at 11:47:58am
Planning on switching skis and I need brakes in 90mm (or 100mm) instead of the 110 I have now.
Stores in Europe would be best, as I don't live in the US. So far I've found nothing (except skimo)
I haven't asked the shops around where I live yet, wanted to check here if anyone knew first.
**This post was edited on Mar 9th 2019 at 11:47:58am
onenerdykid
Active member
14020116:maxwerks said:
I doubt the parts are available... they are usually on hand to deal with warranty, not for sale. What would you do with the toe piece tho?
Hey team, anyone got experience with mounting the 120mm Shifts?
I have a pair of Nordica Bushywaynes, 127mm underfoot, and wondering if I'll get them to fit OK with minimal bending. I see people saying they 100 and 110mm brakes run pretty wide, is it the same story for the 120's?
Thanks in advance
I have a pair of Nordica Bushywaynes, 127mm underfoot, and wondering if I'll get them to fit OK with minimal bending. I see people saying they 100 and 110mm brakes run pretty wide, is it the same story for the 120's?
Thanks in advance
onenerdykid
Active member
14031036:CammyT said:
You'll probably be fine without any bending whatsoever.
BrawnTrends
Active member
Do we know why the brakes are actually much wider than their official width?
soupcan
Member
Reviving this thread instead of making a new one.
how has everyone’s experience been with the shift so far? And would you recommend it for a guy who spends about 1/3 of his time out of the resort and 2/3 of his time bombing around the resort? I am putting together a touring set up but I am not sure if I want to invest in a dedicated touring only set up so these along with the ultra hawx XTD seem like a good option.
any info helps, cheers!
how has everyone’s experience been with the shift so far? And would you recommend it for a guy who spends about 1/3 of his time out of the resort and 2/3 of his time bombing around the resort? I am putting together a touring set up but I am not sure if I want to invest in a dedicated touring only set up so these along with the ultra hawx XTD seem like a good option.
any info helps, cheers!
aanev
Member
I have two pairs. Once I dialled the settings, they have been flawless. Before that I had several pre-releases. Zero issues after I've set properly the release value. One should not forget to read the f*cking manual. Have around 40 days on them.
However, before buying you MUST check the setup manual and see whether you are within the release value boundaries for your weight, height, bsl and style.
**This post was edited on Jan 8th 2020 at 8:53:33am
However, before buying you MUST check the setup manual and see whether you are within the release value boundaries for your weight, height, bsl and style.
**This post was edited on Jan 8th 2020 at 8:53:33am
BrawnTrends
Active member
14094519:soupcan said:
The shift have become my everyday bindings and I use them more going down on slopes than going up touring (but that's because I have skis with tech inserts on the side). Never had any issue.
Monsieur_Patate
Active member
14094519:soupcan said:
I do about 50/50 resort/touring and have the shift on two pairs, a 108 and a 120. I have had 0 issues, I feel super comfortable charging with them and would definitely recommend them for someone who does short-ish tours (
BrawnTrends
Active member
They're not Pivot 18 though, don't throw at them stuff that they can't handle.
soupcan
Member
14095371:BrawnTrends said:
I am done with my park days, it will strictly be “all mountain/touring usage” obviously it doesn’t strictly depend on the binding but I think they should be able to handle cliffs in 20’ neighbourhood eh? I don’t think I would take anything bigger out of the resort and would be on my dedicated pow skis if there was snow to be had within the resort which have pivot 14’s mounted on them. In all honesty would you be concerned with them for this usage? Am I better off to go the daymakers route?
Monsieur_Patate
Active member
14095622:soupcan said:
You'll be fine.
I mean, of course, they're not Pivot 18s, because besides Pivot 18s, nothing is a Pivot 18.. These are obviously different bindings built for different purposes, it doesn't really make sense to compare the two.
The shift is absolutely fine for dropping 20' cliffs. For someone who charges so hard that he'd break anything but Pivot 18s, then sure, maybe look at CAST instead. Basically you can think of the shift as an STH, maybe not the very best (Pivot 18) but above your average alpine binding for sure, it will hold up fine for an aggressive skier.
Make sure you set them up properly though, read the manual, AFD plate and forward pressure specifically can be finicky, and if your shop sets them up for you, definitely don't trust them and double-check.
Kevski
Active member
Use them 50/50 and love em. They’re on a not super light touring setup/all mountain ripping setup, have taken on side country laps, day tours, a hut trip, and a bunch of days in the resort on soft and on firm snow. Even some spring park laps after a morning tour.
Haven’t had an issue since I dialed in my afd and DIN the first couple days. Probably 25-30 days on them now and they’ve treated me super well. Enjoy em!
Haven’t had an issue since I dialed in my afd and DIN the first couple days. Probably 25-30 days on them now and they’ve treated me super well. Enjoy em!
14066997:Mar-O said:
Sorry for resurrecting an old topic, but I had both my brakes (120mm) come off while skinning yesterday..
Both brakes released at different times while skinning and I stomped them back up, then at the top of the skin track both fell off.
Could well be due to ice and snow getting under the brake, then lifting the brake off the pins when I stomp on it to re-lift the brake but would be interested to hear if you have a solution or have heard back from Salomon?
Thanks.
Kevski
Active member
14101008:BCG said:
When you say come off you literally mean the brake detached from the rest of the binding or they didn’t stay up?
I remember reading somewhere that the method of stomping on the tab to lift up the brakes to tour mode isn’t advised (even though I’m pretty sure Salomon shows people doing that). The couple times I’ve been too lazy to clear snow/ice or take off the ski and do it by hand I’ve had issues. Stomping on that transition tab never seems to get the brakes to lock as well as pushing them up by hand - sometimes I’ve gotta really whack the ski to get ice out of that area but once I do it’s totally good.
Also I went with 100mm brakes on a 108mm ski so they don’t stick out too bad when I’m skinning.
If your brakes are literally falling off the ski though then I can’t help you. That would be less than ideal.
14101026:Kevski said:
I got to the top of the skin track, picked up my skis to remove the skins and both brakes literally fell off the skis!
On both skis the little pins that connect the brake assembly to the heel piece had come out of their holes and then the brake just slid off the front end of the heel track.
On the way up, at separate times, both brakes engaged and to raise them again I just stomped down on the brake transition tab. I suspect that there was ice and packed snow (conditions were deep, wet and heavy snow) under the transition tab and when I stomped down it lifted the brake assembly just enough for the two pins to come out.
Interested to hear if any others have had the same issue, and if the solution is just to activate the transition tab by hand, not be such a hack on the skin track that my brakes are getting knocked on, or whether I need to try a narrower brake - I’m currently using 120mm brakes on a 114mm ski as I moved the bindings over from a wider ski?
Thanks for any help.
Mar-O
Member
14101008:BCG said:
Got a new set off brakes on warranty, while the old ones sat very loose the new ones actually clicked in and stayed there before mounting the back part/brakes back onto the ski. I sold the skis and bindings before actually testing it out touring but I think the new brakes should have fixed the problem.
soupcan
Member
Have a few days on my shifts and I am pleasantly surprised at how they ski. I do have one question. The front of my bindings on both sides are about 1mm off the ski seemed odd to me, but I checked the torque and screw depth all seems fine. Additionally where there are actual screws the binding is flush with the ski it’s just right near the tip where no screws are holding the binding down. Anybody have any thoughts?
BrawnTrends
Active member
14115749:soupcan said:
Probably just the topsheet that rose a little when they drilled it (happens when you work too fast, but has no consequences). But if it concernes you, take them back to the shop and ask them (nicely) to clean it up. They should do it for free.
Turnfarmer
Member
I'd take them back to the shop just to make sure the front of the binding that slides into a washer like shim at the front is properly engaged there. It's mounted to the ski first with a screw and is not visible. If the tech didn't push the front of the binding down hard enough the toe piece can slide forward above and not engage the screwed in washer.
The problem could easily be the raised top sheet mentioned but it is worth making sure the toe piece is properly engaged.
The problem could easily be the raised top sheet mentioned but it is worth making sure the toe piece is properly engaged.