Official: Atomic & Salomon Shift 13 MNC Binding Thread

[RustsCached]

Thanks.

On all sites says this "Walking profile: shoe that meets the ISO 9523 standard, 2008 (DIN Touring), it is compatible with AT, Tech and Skitrab TR2 mounting systems.".

Does the ISO norm have been updated sience 2008 or is the same? If not, that means its compatible right? Then why an well known store like sport conrad will provide such an information... Really dont know if to order them and risk a bit or not...

Thanks for the reply!

 

[onenerdykid]

Thanks.

On all sites says this "Walking profile: shoe that meets the ISO 9523 standard, 2008 (DIN Touring), it is compatible with AT, Tech and Skitrab TR2 mounting systems.".

Does the ISO norm have been updated sience 2008 or is the same? If not, that means its compatible right? Then why an well known store like sport conrad will provide such an information... Really dont know if to order them and risk a bit or not...

Thanks for the reply!

In the past, La Sportiva had issues with some of their soles having too much rocker and this caused problems with a lot of pin bindings. But, Sport Conrad is not famous for their product knowledge nor are they a super-specialist- they just sell a ton of stuff online because they have buying power and are usually one of the cheapest options.

I don't have a boot in front of me to confirm this, but if they say the sole is ISO 9523 then it should work with Shift.

 

[cydwhit]

In the past, La Sportiva had issues with some of their soles having too much rocker and this caused problems with a lot of pin bindings. But, Sport Conrad is not famous for their product knowledge nor are they a super-specialist- they just sell a ton of stuff online because they have buying power and are usually one of the cheapest options.

I don't have a boot in front of me to confirm this, but if they say the sole is ISO 9523 then it should work with Shift.

I do have that boot in front of me, and I did tour with the Syncrho and Shift a few days last year, and they work great together. Bad beta from the shop,

Synchro and Shift is a baller combo!

 

[chicken]

Just ordered my shift. Getting an XTD 130 to go with it. What ski should I put on? Backland 107 is too ugly, QST 106 is too dorky. Maybe sick day 104? Never toured before.

 

[Non_State_Actor]

Just ordered my shift. Getting an XTD 130 to go with it. What ski should I put on? Backland 107 is too ugly, QST 106 is too dorky. Maybe sick day 104? Never toured before.

Corvus Freebird. Blister's new buyer's guide is pretty stoked on it. The have a great section on touring skis, 50/50 skis tons of categories.

 

[RustsCached]

Thanks a lot guys!

Bogdan Vlad

 

[onenerdykid]

Just ordered my shift. Getting an XTD 130 to go with it. What ski should I put on? Backland 107 is too ugly, QST 106 is too dorky. Maybe sick day 104? Never toured before.

My touring set up for the year: XTD 130, Shift, Bentchetler 100. I was back & forth between the Bent 100 and Backland 107, but ended up going with the 100 because it just skis so fricken amazing.

 

[BrawnTrends]

Just ordered my shift. Getting an XTD 130 to go with it. What ski should I put on? Backland 107 is too ugly, QST 106 is too dorky. Maybe sick day 104? Never toured before.

Personally I'll have them on last season's CT 3.0. But I was also thinking about the Tracer 108 that looks really cool this year (and is probably better at touring).

 

[cydwhit]

My touring set up for the year: XTD 130, Shift, Bentchetler 100. I was back & forth between the Bent 100 and Backland 107, but ended up going with the 100 because it just skis so fricken amazing.

Mmmmm. Sounds so good. But you know what would be the most baller touring setup? Shift and a Bentchetler 110.

Sorry, the Blog changed my life and I've just never let go of that dream.

 

[patagonialuke]

Mmmmm. Sounds so good. But you know what would be the most baller touring setup? Shift and a Bentchetler 110.

Sorry, the Blog changed my life and I've just never let go of that dream.

+1 for this request.

 

[Rum_Ham]

Just ordered my shift. Getting an XTD 130 to go with it. What ski should I put on? Backland 107 is too ugly, QST 106 is too dorky. Maybe sick day 104? Never toured before.

Wildcat 108

 

[onenerdykid]

Mmmmm. Sounds so good. But you know what would be the most baller touring setup? Shift and a Bentchetler 110.

Sorry, the Blog changed my life and I've just never let go of that dream.

I can't say you're wrong

 

[BrawnTrends]

+1 for this request.

+2. omg Bentchetler 110. I'm drooling just thinking about it.

 

[chicken]

I ended up getting a sick day 114 in a 190. Was hoping for a 180 but they were sold out. I'm pretty much going to be resort skiing and day trips. Was this a bad idea?

I usually would buy a 190 pow ski, but I also usually ski them with 130 flex "race" boots and pivot 18's.

 

[patagonialuke]

I ended up getting a sick day 114 in a 190. Was hoping for a 180 but they were sold out. I'm pretty much going to be resort skiing and day trips. Was this a bad idea?

I usually would buy a 190 pow ski, but I also usually ski them with 130 flex "race" boots and pivot 18's.

If you usually ski a 190 then I think the 190 SD 114 is a good choice. It's a super fun ski and still light enough for day tours.

Are you questioning whether or not the Shift is a good combo with a ski that big? If so, I wouldn't worry about it. The Shift feels just as powerful as any alpine binding I've used. I think your boots would be much more of a factor. What boots are you using for touring?

 

[chicken]

I think your boots would be much more of a factor. What boots are you using for touring?

I am hoping to use the Hawx XTD 130.

Is there a better boot? My choices are Atomic, Salomon, Head, K2

 

[patagonialuke]

I am hoping to use the Hawx XTD 130.

Is there a better boot? My choices are Atomic, Salomon, Head, K2

Fit is obviously paramount, but I don't think you'd have any trouble driving the 190 SD 114 with the XTD 130. It's a really good, strong AT boot.

Of the brands you listed, the XTD 130 would be my top pick. The Head Kore 1 is nowhere near a 130 flex, I've heard less than glowing things about the K2 Pinnacle series, and I know a few people that found the 18/19 Salomon S/Lab MTN lacking in rearward support.

So if the XTD 130 fits your foot, I think it'd be a great option. S/Lab MTN would be my second choice if it fits better.

 

[chicken]

Fit is obviously paramount, but I don't think you'd have any trouble driving the 190 SD 114 with the XTD 130. It's a really good, strong AT boot.

Of the brands you listed, the XTD 130 would be my top pick. The Head Kore 1 is nowhere near a 130 flex, I've heard less than glowing things about the K2 Pinnacle series, and I know a few people that found the 18/19 Salomon S/Lab MTN lacking in rearward support.

So if the XTD 130 fits your foot, I think it'd be a great option. S/Lab MTN would be my second choice if it fits better.

I have lots of free time to work on my boots. So anything will work as long as it's not already too big haha.

 

[1337]

Getting my Shifts next week and mounting them on my Magnum Opus' for Japan. DROOLLLLLLL

 

[Gjermund]

So Im looking on every video of the shift binding and see that it holds (of course, its commercial editing) up well in heavy landings and stuff. Most of the clips I have seen of the binding in action is in powder. But I havent seen any real skiing on hardpack or park. My deep question is, how will it handle doing butters (not just in the pow)? High pressure on the front part and sideways movement, din 13 and so on...

 

[cydwhit]

So Im looking on every video of the shift binding and see that it holds (of course, its commercial editing) up well in heavy landings and stuff. Most of the clips I have seen of the binding in action is in powder. But I havent seen any real skiing on hardpack or park. My deep question is, how will it handle doing butters (not just in the pow)? High pressure on the front part and sideways movement, din 13 and so on...

I mean, the reason you haven't seen any park skiing on this binding is because it's really not a park binding. It's a touring binding that works well inbounds. So it won't be as durable as a heavier binding.

And while I don't run my DIN at 13 on the Shift, I haven't had any issues while skiing them hard in hard conditions, including the occasional park lap. No pre-releases on butters, no broken plastic, no problems.

 

[PacificRimJob]

So Im looking on every video of the shift binding and see that it holds (of course, its commercial editing) up well in heavy landings and stuff. Most of the clips I have seen of the binding in action is in powder. But I havent seen any real skiing on hardpack or park. My deep question is, how will it handle doing butters (not just in the pow)? High pressure on the front part and sideways movement, din 13 and so on...

At 13 din it's gonna plateau out the tension, but I'm sure it's fine...

It's gonna ski fine on hardpack and crud, but I wouldn't make it my jib binding. It's not made to be as durable as a pivot 18, here.

 

[FreddoBumps]

Is there a mounting template that can had, by chance?

 

[f100prerunner]

Is there a mounting template that can had, by chance?

There’s one in the shift thread on tgr forums

 

[TheWeaz]

Well I’ve put about 5 days touring on my shifts so far. Not enough to tell durability but enough to make some first impressions.

So far absolutely no issues with the toes. Even had a solid ejection on a botched pre season backy.

Only issue that has arrisen is that the whole brake assembly and climbing bail kinda just sucks. It seems like they spent all the r&d time on the toe and just came up with a brake set up that was marginally adequate.

Ive had the brake deploy while touring a lot. It seems that any slight bump to the arms while in tour mode will drop the brakes. In addition if feels like the plastic walk mode lever is going to break every time I transfer to ski mode. In contrast some of the other shifts I have mounted this season have had smoother brake levers so maybe its just mine is messed up.

The single climbing bail is my last point. It would have been incredibly easy for salomon to make two, they just didn’t. And theres no access to the climbing ail pivot so its not easy to add your own second one. I know the claimed maximum efficiency is at 10 degrees, but everyone else who doesn’t have these is setting 7 degree or 13 degree skin tracks which means if you aren’t breaking trail you are at the wrong angle.

 

[cydwhit]

Well I’ve put about 5 days touring on my shifts so far. Not enough to tell durability but enough to make some first impressions.

So far absolutely no issues with the toes. Even had a solid ejection on a botched pre season backy.

Only issue that has arrisen is that the whole brake assembly and climbing bail kinda just sucks. It seems like they spent all the r&d time on the toe and just came up with a brake set up that was marginally adequate.

Ive had the brake deploy while touring a lot. It seems that any slight bump to the arms while in tour mode will drop the brakes. In addition if feels like the plastic walk mode lever is going to break every time I transfer to ski mode. In contrast some of the other shifts I have mounted this season have had smoother brake levers so maybe its just mine is messed up.

The single climbing bail is my last point. It would have been incredibly easy for salomon to make two, they just didn’t. And theres no access to the climbing ail pivot so its not easy to add your own second one. I know the claimed maximum efficiency is at 10 degrees, but everyone else who doesn’t have these is setting 7 degree or 13 degree skin tracks which means if you aren’t breaking trail you are at the wrong angle.

Yeah, mostly agree with this. My brake lever works great, maybe you have a defective pair? I have found that the whole brake mechanism works better if you manually lift the arms of the brake as you lock the lever, instead of putting it in the right place and then stepping on it with your heel.

On the release front, huge fan. I'm running mine at 10, so far they've come off once, when I wanted them to, and have stayed on through a couple of dumb front flips where I would have lost tech bindings, but not alpine bindings. Ski performance wise I have no complaints.

On the riser front, I sort of agree. I'd really like a higher riser option. I'm fine with just one riser, just make that one riser a 13° option haha. So far though I haven't really minded it. I have boots with a high ROM, so I don't notice it as a real problem. For days on Teton Pass, or Galena Pass, or the Targhee backcountry, I think I'll be fine with the one riser. However, for big days in Grand Teton National Park, I think I'd want more, just since there's more of a tendancy to get steep, terrible skin tracks out there.

 

[chicken]

Yeah, mostly agree with this. My brake lever works great, maybe you have a defective pair? I have found that the whole brake mechanism works better if you manually lift the arms of the brake as you lock the lever, instead of putting it in the right place and then stepping on it with your heel.

On the release front, huge fan. I'm running mine at 10, so far they've come off once, when I wanted them to, and have stayed on through a couple of dumb front flips where I would have lost tech bindings, but not alpine bindings. Ski performance wise I have no complaints.

On the riser front, I sort of agree. I'd really like a higher riser option. I'm fine with just one riser, just make that one riser a 13° option haha. So far though I haven't really minded it. I have boots with a high ROM, so I don't notice it as a real problem. For days on Teton Pass, or Galena Pass, or the Targhee backcountry, I think I'll be fine with the one riser. However, for big days in Grand Teton National Park, I think I'd want more, just since there's more of a tendancy to get steep, terrible skin tracks out there.

I'm just looking at my shift now and I think it would be super easy to mod to a higher riser. If you had like three bolts and a plate you could even adjust the height by turning the screws.

 

[TheWeaz]

I agree it would be very easy to modify the single rider to be taller. Its harder to make it so you have the 10 degree and then also a taller one.

As for my brake holder, it does seem to be harder to release than others I’ve used. I do like the trick about pulling up on the brake arms instead of stepping onto the lever.

 

[Monsieur_Patate]

Hey guys, question about the DIN settings. So a lady friend of mine got a pair of shifts, but she is pretty lightweight at 107lbs for a 281mm BSL. She is a type 2 skier I'd say. Online calculator gives a 4-5 DIN setting as ideal for her (she is right at the weight limit between 2 categories, so 4 or 5 depending if I pick the lower or higher weight category).

The issue is that the shift's lower DIN is 6. So while I understand that this is not ideal, is she facing significant risks by going with a setting of 6 instead of the recommended 4-5 for her profile?

While my understanding of DINs is that it's a standardized norm and should be the same regardless of model and manufacturer, I've heard that some bindings release more than others at similar DIN settings, so wondering if that applies to the shifts.

Thanks!

 

[TheWeaz]

Your main problem is a shop won’t mount a binding out of din range for her.

Basically she’ll need to sign as a type 3 or even 3+ For the shop to mount.

and yes it is not safe technically, the shift tests out pretty much perfect. At least the 5-10 pairs I’ve tested do.

 

[maxwerks]

If you usually ski a 190 then I think the 190 SD 114 is a good choice. It's a super fun ski and still light enough for day tours.

Are you questioning whether or not the Shift is a good combo with a ski that big? If so, I wouldn't worry about it. The Shift feels just as powerful as any alpine binding I've used. I think your boots would be much more of a factor. What boots are you using for touring?

Just purchased shifts with Head Kore 93. Still looking for a boot that can day tour but and matches the Shift uncompromised inbounds performance. My top choice at this point would be Fischer Ranger Free 130 (1560g, ROM 55 deg). Unfortunately it is unavailable in my size 24. Available in my size: Rossignol Alltrack Elite LT 130 (1660g, ROM 50 deg) and Lange XT Promodel 140 (1900g, ROM 43 deg) . I worry that Hawx XTD 130 is too optimised for touring, while XTD 120 might be too soft. The Lange appears to restrictive for happy touring. I mentioned in another thread I would really like the boots to be powerful enough to also drive my GS race skis. Rossignol tech support confirmed the Alltrack is a true 130 flex and capable with their Hero Master ski

 

[onenerdykid]

Just purchased shifts with Head Kore 93. Still looking for a boot that can day tour but and matches the Shift uncompromised inbounds performance. My top choice at this point would be Fischer Ranger Free 130 (1560g, ROM 55 deg). Unfortunately it is unavailable in my size 24. Available in my size: Rossignol Alltrack Elite LT 130 (1660g, ROM 50 deg) and Lange XT Promodel 140 (1900g, ROM 43 deg) . I worry that Hawx XTD 130 is too optimised for touring, while XTD 120 might be too soft. The Lange appears to restrictive for happy touring. I mentioned in another thread I would really like the boots to be powerful enough to also drive my GS race skis. Rossignol tech support confirmed the Alltrack is a true 130 flex and capable with their Hero Master ski

RE: Hawx Ultra XTD 130- you can always get a more "alpine" oriented liner, like a ZipFit or foam injection, etc. for those resort only days. One boot, two liners.

 

[KM_2]

First day on tour layup kartel 108s + shifts inbounds on Saturday. Coming from pivot 18s, I forgot I was on a touring binding after a lap...sooo stoked to take this plush ride into the bc. Yall hit it out of the park with this one

 

[BrawnTrends]

First day on tour layup kartel 108s + shifts inbounds on Saturday. Coming from pivot 18s, I forgot I was on a touring binding after a lap...sooo stoked to take this plush ride into the bc. Yall hit it out of the park with this one

Brake width?

 

[KM_2]

Brake width?

100, they fit perfectly

 

[BrawnTrends]

100, they fit perfectly

That's what I was afraid of. Ordered them with the 110s, and my skis are 108. Hopefully they won't be too wide for it to be annoying on the uphill.

 

[menace101]

Can someone explain the dual lock positions for the front toe piece when in hike mode? In the review on NS, it says it's approximately a toe release of a DIN 7 equivalent.

As far as my very limited knowledge in tech bindings go, I thought you hiked with the toe fully locked? So what's the use case of this intermediate lock?

 

[LeeLau]

It allows for limited release if you're in as slide on the uphill...note "limited"

Can someone explain the dual lock positions for the front toe piece when in hike mode? In the review on NS, it says it's approximately a toe release of a DIN 7 equivalent.

As far as my very limited knowledge in tech bindings go, I thought you hiked with the toe fully locked? So what's the use case of this intermediate lock?

 

[LeeLau]

If you bump the brakes while skinning.uphill they tend to deploy. That'll happen more with your wider brakes. Annoying but not fatal

That's what I was afraid of. Ordered them with the 110s, and my skis are 108. Hopefully they won't be too wide for it to be annoying on the uphill.

 

[cydwhit]

If you bump the brakes while skinning.uphill they tend to deploy. That'll happen more with your wider brakes. Annoying but not fatal

This was happening to me and then I realized I'm supposed to be touring with the heel down, like your boot would be locked into it skiing. Since I have been doing that, I haven't had any brake issues.

 

[BrawnTrends]

This was happening to me and then I realized I'm supposed to be touring with the heel down, like your boot would be locked into it skiing. Since I have been doing that, I haven't had any brake issues.

Alright I'll try that if I have issues.

 

[nevertoold]

anyone source a set of 100mm crampons for the shift , can't seem to get them anywhere

 

[WorstSkierOTM]

Thoughts on throwing shifts on a new pair of kartel 108s for all mountain shredding, some mild park laps, side country laps and jibbing?

Not a fan of frame bindings due to weight / awkward uphill / flex etc

Is it asking one binding to do too much?

 

[.MASSHOLE.]

Thoughts on throwing shifts on a new pair of kartel 108s for all mountain shredding, some mild park laps, side country laps and jibbing?

Not a fan of frame bindings due to weight / awkward uphill / flex etc

Is it asking one binding to do too much?

You could definitely.

If you're not too concerned with weight, don't want to get new boots, don't plan on touring too far, and have FKS 18s then look into CAST as another option.

I imagine the Shift can hold up to all of it pretty well but if you're primarily doing the first 2 over side-country, I can't see the downside of going with a metal binding over the Shift.

Either way, you've got two options which is never a bad thing.

**This post was edited on Dec 7th 2018 at 10:27:09am

 

[WorstSkierOTM]

You could definitely.

If you're not too concerned with weight, don't want to get new boots, don't plan on touring too far, and have FKS 18s then look into CAST as another option.

I imagine the Shift can hold up to all of it pretty well but if you're primarily doing the first 2 over side-country, I can't see the downside of going with a metal binding over the Shift.

Either way, you've got two options which is never a bad thing.

**This post was edited on Dec 7th 2018 at 10:27:09am

Thanks dude, i’d Never heard of cast before. I don’t already own FKS18s so it would be a pretty big cost to install the whole setup but it looks like a sweet product.

 

[GOB]

Hi onenerdy,

Hoping you can help me out - I appreciate all the info and responses you have given before.

I have a pair of shifts mounted up and I'm skiing them with Hawx XTD's. I am loving the downhill performance, but have an issue now that has become really frustrating:

When I transition to uphill mode, I can't get the toepiece lever to stay up and locked. This seems to happen on one of the bindings worse than the other.

Super frustrating because i keep kicking off a ski while skinning.

How far up should I be able to pull the lever to lock the toe? It seems like I should be able to go further but it doesn't go straight up. I pull the lever up as high it will go, but inevitably while walking a little bit later it will pop down on its own. And then a little later I will release from the ski.

I did check the pin holes on my boots to make sure they are clear of snow or ice, and they are. No snow under the boot either.

Could this be related to an incorrect toe height setting?

Thanks so much for the help, this has been really frustrating as I want to love the binding I'm losin' my mind here.

**This post was edited on Dec 12th 2018 at 9:09:33pm

 

[onenerdykid]

Hi onenerdy,

Hoping you can help me out - I appreciate all the info and responses you have given before.

I have a pair of shifts mounted up and I'm skiing them with Hawx XTD's. I am loving the downhill performance, but have an issue now that has become really frustrating:

When I transition to uphill mode, I can't get the toepiece lever to stay up and locked. This seems to happen on one of the bindings worse than the other.

Super frustrating because i keep kicking off a ski while skinning.

How far up should I be able to pull the lever to lock the toe? It seems like I should be able to go further but it doesn't go straight up. I pull the lever up as high it will go, but inevitably while walking a little bit later it will pop down on its own. And then a little later I will release from the ski.

I did check the pin holes on my boots to make sure they are clear of snow or ice, and they are. No snow under the boot either.

Could this be related to an incorrect toe height setting?

Thanks so much for the help, this has been really frustrating as I want to love the binding I'm losin' my mind here.

**This post was edited on Dec 12th 2018 at 9:09:33pm

Something sounds odd for sure... your best bet is to take it into an Atomic/Salomon dealer and have them look at it. They will be able to see if something is wrong/broken and can get you fixed up.

 

[GOB]

Something sounds odd for sure... your best bet is to take it into an Atomic/Salomon dealer and have them look at it. They will be able to see if something is wrong/broken and can get you fixed up.

Thanks for the reply!

Did some more experimenting this morning.

1. Issue is not related to the toe height at all, the boot is way above the sliding afd when in walk mode.

2. with no boot in the binding, pulling the toe lever into walk mode lock (vertical) is very easy.

3. I was able to get the toe to lock in walk mode with the boot in the pins after *really* pulling hard on the lever to bring it up. I had to loop my finger into the hole in the toe lever to get enough force. No way I could do it with a pole in the field.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm pretty sure the tech fittings on the hawx are dynafit certified ones, so that shouldn't be the issue.

 

[cydwhit]

Thanks for the reply!

Did some more experimenting this morning.

1. Issue is not related to the toe height at all, the boot is way above the sliding afd when in walk mode.

2. with no boot in the binding, pulling the toe lever into walk mode lock (vertical) is very easy.

3. I was able to get the toe to lock in walk mode with the boot in the pins after *really* pulling hard on the lever to bring it up. I had to loop my finger into the hole in the toe lever to get enough force. No way I could do it with a pole in the field.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm pretty sure the tech fittings on the hawx are dynafit certified ones, so that shouldn't be the issue.

In my Hawx Ultra XTD they work perfectly. But when I use them with my inbounds Hawx with CAST inserts it definitly takes more force to pull that lever up. Not as much as you're talking about, but a little more.

But no matter what boot I'm using it takes more force than I could ever exert with a pole, I always have to reach down and manually lock the toe. But that's common to every tech binding I've ever used.

Sorry, wish I was some help, that's a weird issue.

 

[Kevski]

Thanks for the reply!

Did some more experimenting this morning.

1. Issue is not related to the toe height at all, the boot is way above the sliding afd when in walk mode.

2. with no boot in the binding, pulling the toe lever into walk mode lock (vertical) is very easy.

3. I was able to get the toe to lock in walk mode with the boot in the pins after *really* pulling hard on the lever to bring it up. I had to loop my finger into the hole in the toe lever to get enough force. No way I could do it with a pole in the field.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm pretty sure the tech fittings on the hawx are dynafit certified ones, so that shouldn't be the issue.

Yeah me too - was going to pop in here with the exact same question. Just got mine back from mounting in the shop and was playing around with it. Couldn’t pull the lever all the way up with the boot in but could lock it easily with the boot out.

Dalbello Lupo ax120 boots as a reference.