Official: Atomic & Salomon Shift 13 MNC Binding Thread

13972906:Kevski said:
Yeah me too - was going to pop in here with the exact same question. Just got mine back from mounting in the shop and was playing around with it. Couldn’t pull the lever all the way up with the boot in but could lock it easily with the boot out.

Dalbello Lupo ax120 boots as a reference.
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Turns out I was just being a chump. Jamming a finger in the lever I could get it to where it needed to be without too much sweat.
 
Fyi ive used Hawx, Lupo, ZeroG and Vulcan in Shift without problem for toe lock and being able to pull up. Hope whatever happened it gets

resolved
 
fair warning, the shop i work at has seen now 4 of these bindings come in not being able to get the toe piece into walk mode. Diagnosis at this point is that the binding is getting frozen up even at very low temps (-5 to -1). If you do have this binding make sure you bring them indoors at night at let them get cold before you start switching from apline to tour mode.
 
13973529:Bread. said:
fair warning, the shop i work at has seen now 4 of these bindings come in not being able to get the toe piece into walk mode. Diagnosis at this point is that the binding is getting frozen up even at very low temps (-5 to -1). If you do have this binding make sure you bring them indoors at night at let them get cold before you start switching from apline to tour mode.
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Would dousing the mechanism with wd40 be frowned upon? Used to have to spray it in the locks of my old truck so they wouldn’t freeze up, it repels water and is a decent lubricant.
 
13973533:Rum_Ham said:
Would dousing the mechanism with wd40 be frowned upon? Used to have to spray it in the locks of my old truck so they wouldn’t freeze up, it repels water and is a decent lubricant.
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we have been lubing them up pretty good and that seems to help a bit don't know how well wd would perform though. Maybe something a bit thicker would be better. Ultimately the best solution we have found at this point has been just to keep them warm. We haven't had any seriously cold conditions in a while so need to wait and see how they cope in -10 and below.
 
13973629:Bread. said:
we have been lubing them up pretty good and that seems to help a bit don't know how well wd would perform though. Maybe something a bit thicker would be better. Ultimately the best solution we have found at this point has been just to keep them warm. We haven't had any seriously cold conditions in a while so need to wait and see how they cope in -10 and below.
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It works really well at getting water out, wd does stand for water dispersant. Staying power isn’t great though
 
One more question on the AFD: I noticed a bit of vertical wiggle (which I swear was brought up in here but I couldn't find the post) and brought it up at the shop. I was passed along a message from the tech saying there should be around a credit card's gap between the plate and the rubber gripwalk sole when in downhill mode. Is this to account for the ski flexing or something? Is this how everyone else has been setting/riding them? I would have thought it would be best to just touch the sole.
 
13973926:Kevski said:
One more question on the AFD: I noticed a bit of vertical wiggle (which I swear was brought up in here but I couldn't find the post) and brought it up at the shop. I was passed along a message from the tech saying there should be around a credit card's gap between the plate and the rubber gripwalk sole when in downhill mode. Is this to account for the ski flexing or something? Is this how everyone else has been setting/riding them? I would have thought it would be best to just touch the sole.
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I've heard a piece of paper should juuuust be able to be slid out between the afd and boot. So a really small space between
 
13973956:Profahoben_212 said:
I've heard a piece of paper should juuuust be able to be slid out between the afd and boot. So a really small space between
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Sweet, thanks man. I've realized that when I just step into the bindings it's good since my weight is on it, but if I lean back as if to pop the boot goes up a good couple mm. Did some further digging and found this article from Salomon which looks to me as illustrating this "problem" as the ideal condition. When pushed back my boot creates the same gap as in the picture - significantly more than the paper thickness you mentioned or even the card that the tech told me.

Article here:https://issuu.com/salomonnz/docs/salomon_tm_alp_wtr2019_300dpi

I'm a bit confused and don't want to fuck up my knees by riding in the wrong setting (which seems like it could be either at my current level of understanding). Should I be adjusting the plate up or leaving it be?
 
13973926:Kevski said:
One more question on the AFD: I noticed a bit of vertical wiggle (which I swear was brought up in here but I couldn't find the post) and brought it up at the shop. I was passed along a message from the tech saying there should be around a credit card's gap between the plate and the rubber gripwalk sole when in downhill mode. Is this to account for the ski flexing or something? Is this how everyone else has been setting/riding them? I would have thought it would be best to just touch the sole.
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Credit card is too thick, try a piece of thick paper. You should be able to get a piece of paper in there with a little bit of friction, this is to ensure that you don't have to much down pressure on your toe slider, with the little gap it helps the toe deploy better and safer.
 
13974630:Bread. said:
Credit card is too thick, try a piece of thick paper.
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Not "thick". The bindings' mounting manual that comes in the box has an area you're supposed to cut out and use (after folding in two) to measure the AFD.
 
Thanks guys! I’ll use a pamphlet-thick piece of paper. Just reread that online manual and it says aim for .5mm so definitely nice and thin.
 
yup to all above. just demo-ed tons of boots with a shop and adjusted each to my shift binding. they used a piece of plastic around the thickness of a cheap tupperware for adjusting AFD height.

i have 100 mm brakes that i mounted on some icelantic nomad 105s. the 100mm is too small, it gets caught on the ski and doesn't deploy most of the time. I'm not tripping about it but would be interested in a swap or something.

seems that the 100mm brake is working on most wider skis in this range so just an fyi with the nomads or similar skis with fat tips/tails
 
For AFD's I've almost always used a business card, or one of the salomon AFD dooblydoos that are about as thick, and that's always done the trick. Adjusted countless bindings in this fashion.
 
13975574:postal_slime said:
yup to all above. just demo-ed tons of boots with a shop and adjusted each to my shift binding. they used a piece of plastic around the thickness of a cheap tupperware for adjusting AFD height.

i have 100 mm brakes that i mounted on some icelantic nomad 105s. the 100mm is too small, it gets caught on the ski and doesn't deploy most of the time. I'm not tripping about it but would be interested in a swap or something.

seems that the 100mm brake is working on most wider skis in this range so just an fyi with the nomads or similar skis with fat tips/tails
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Ah, word.

Might be worth throwing a ruler on those Nomads. The 105 Lite that I reviewed in a 191 was actually 112 mm at the waist haha. Pretty sure some Icelantics get wider as they get longer, but they don't state that anywhere.
 
When setting the toe height on the shifts, you need to pull up on the boot to really check. If this wasn't done, or if it wasn't pulled up all the way, you might end up with a gap and some wiggle. it happened to me when I mounted my own.
 
13975574:postal_slime said:
i have 100 mm brakes that i mounted on some icelantic nomad 105s. the 100mm is too small, it gets caught on the ski and doesn't deploy most of the time. I'm not tripping about it but would be interested in a swap or something.

seems that the 100mm brake is working on most wider skis in this range so just an fyi with the nomads or similar skis with fat tips/tails
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Having the same issue on my K108s. Swapped out from 110 to 100 at the shop based on some people’s accounts but it catches like half the time. Might just shave off a mm or two off the inside plastic to get it more reliable.
 
13975904:Kevski said:
Having the same issue on my K108s. Swapped out from 110 to 100 at the shop based on some people’s accounts but it catches like half the time. Might just shave off a mm or two off the inside plastic to get it more reliable.
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That’s interesting you say that. I’m running my shifts with a 110 brakes on a 116 ski and they clear very nicely.
 
13976096:Kbob94 said:
That’s interesting you say that. I’m running my shifts with a 110 brakes on a 116 ski and they clear very nicely.
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Yeah I wonder if it has something to do with different boot sizes/bsl pushing the brake location back to a wider part of the ski? Or if there are minor inconsistencies in the brake plastic?

Either way I seem to be in the minority with brakes that actually don’t run much bigger than advertised.
 
13976392:Kevski said:
Yeah I wonder if it has something to do with different boot sizes/bsl pushing the brake location back to a wider part of the ski? Or if there are minor inconsistencies in the brake plastic?

Either way I seem to be in the minority with brakes that actually don’t run much bigger than advertised.
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Yeah that could definitely be the case. I run a 28.5 boot so my bsl is 326 so not small. I think unfortunately you might have gotten a inconsistent pair or something. It is first year run of these so I’m not surprised if there’s little things like that.
 
I finally had my first day skiing the Shifts, and I'm really amazed by their on piste performances. I'm glad everything I've read was actually true, and I can't wait to test them going uphill.
 
Hey Matt,

Thanks for all your great input here.

If I feel much better balance in an alpine sole with the binding toes even with the heel (0 delta,) Do you know how much I would need to shim the Shifts to get the same feel with an Ultra Xtd?

It seems like about 8mm to me. But since I need to cut some screws down to fit, which is somewhat onerous, I'd love to hear your thoughts before I do that.
 
13978587:Turnfarmer said:
Hey Matt,

Thanks for all your great input here.

If I feel much better balance in an alpine sole with the binding toes even with the heel (0 delta,) Do you know how much I would need to shim the Shifts to get the same feel with an Ultra Xtd?

It seems like about 8mm to me. But since I need to cut some screws down to fit, which is somewhat onerous, I'd love to hear your thoughts before I do that.
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What are your alpine boots that you are comparing to the XTDs?

I haven't honestly experimented with shimming toes on Shifts yet, so I would just be guessing if I answered you. But the ramp angle of the Ultra XTD is determined when the boot sits on a table, not in a binding (unlike GripWalk). So, if you did shim the toe up (which makes sense hypothetically), you just need to be careful that you don't cause a problem at the heel of the binding. This is the part I am unsure about...
 
13978803:Jamartini said:
any rumors when they are going to be back in stock on the salomon site?
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If you are referring to employee shop purchases, just speak with your rep and/or call customer service.
 
First day on em in the resort was a success. Didn’t eject while skiing but didn’t fall or send anything big. Also new skis so my attention was mostly elsewhere.

Two issues:

- AFD plates dropped throughout the day to the point that my boots clicked up and down while I turned. Probably ~2mm.

- Went for a silly nosepress waiting at the top of the lift first run and double ejected at DIN of 8. Is this to be expected? Kinda scared to try any nollies or butters seeing how easily it released.
 
13980395:Kevski said:
First day on em in the resort was a success. Didn’t eject while skiing but didn’t fall or send anything big. Also new skis so my attention was mostly elsewhere.

Two issues:

- AFD plates dropped throughout the day to the point that my boots clicked up and down while I turned. Probably ~2mm.

- Went for a silly nosepress waiting at the top of the lift first run and double ejected at DIN of 8. Is this to be expected? Kinda scared to try any nollies or butters seeing how easily it released.
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I have that heel I ssue with any binding that’s not pivots, you just gotta crank the dins a lil more at your own risk.

**This post was edited on Jan 16th 2019 at 11:24:07am
 
13978856:onenerdykid said:
If you are referring to employee shop purchases, just speak with your rep and/or call customer service.
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"out of stock until next season" - customer service

guess no more pro deals for a bit lol
 
Had my first day touring on them for a bit today. No issues to speak of - just seamless fun. Pin levers seemed easier to lock in than when I tested them at home, and no issues with brakes releasing. Awesome finally having pins on the uphill, and like I've already experienced on the downhill I don't even think about them any differently than a normal alpine binding.

Adjusted the DIN half a point and seems to be closer to the sweet spot - still ejected in a situation I wanted to and no longer prereleasing when I don't. And the AFD seems to be staying put since I adjusted it per Cody Townsend's comment in that TGR thread.

Stoked!
 
13988466:Kevski said:
And the AFD seems to be staying put since I adjusted it per Cody Townsend's comment in that TGR thread.
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What exactly is the suggestion Cody made? Sorry haven’t sorted through everything over there quite yet.
 
13988497:postal_slime said:
What exactly is the suggestion Cody made? Sorry haven’t sorted through everything over there quite yet.
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I can’t recall exactly but it was essentially to back the afd up then raise it all the way to the boot and make sure to finish with the screw turning in the raising direction. That there is some sort of memory in the mechanism that sounded like it doesn’t respond well to micro adjustments backwards at the end.

Probably worth a skim through the thread though before making adjustments yourself. Lots of people talking about this issue and how to fix it.
 
13988972:Kevski said:
I can’t recall exactly but it was essentially to back the afd up then raise it all the way to the boot and make sure to finish with the screw turning in the raising direction. That there is some sort of memory in the mechanism that sounded like it doesn’t respond well to micro adjustments backwards at the end.

Probably worth a skim through the thread though before making adjustments yourself. Lots of people talking about this issue and how to fix it.
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I have a similar suggestion in the NS review of the SHIFT. Search for it in the front page.
 
13967973:BrawnTrends said:
That's what I was afraid of. Ordered them with the 110s, and my skis are 108. Hopefully they won't be too wide for it to be annoying on the uphill.
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And mystery3,

I have 100mm brakes available to sell. My nomad 105s are a bit wider at the waist than listed and considering the mount position, don’t fit well enough. Bought the 110s and changing them out in an hour or so.
 
13993340:postal_slime said:
Anyone have a “How to” on changing out the shift brakes? Seems simple enough but any advice is appriciated.
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1. Using the forward pressure screw, screw the heel forward, and slide it off the track. The brake is attached to the heel piece by 2 little prongs that pop down into the heel piece.

2. Wiggle/pop the brake assembly off the heel piece and snap on the new brake.

3. Slide the entire heel piece onto the heel tray and reset your forward pressure accordingly.
 
13993339:postal_slime said:
And mystery3,

I have 100mm brakes available to sell. My nomad 105s are a bit wider at the waist than listed and considering the mount position, don’t fit well enough. Bought the 110s and changing them out in an hour or so.
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Yeah.... I remember when I reviewed that ski, the 191 cm version was like 112 underfoot? Pretty sure there's something real funky going on with Icelantic's stated dimensions.
 
As I see more people here has written about I'm also struggling with not being able to lock the toe piece in walk mode, anyone found a solution or gotten a new pair on warranty yet or still just need to keep them inside over night to avoid them icing up?

Also really weird thing happen today when touring, the brake suddenly fell off. Had to screw the entire heel part out to re attach the brakes. Anyone else had this happen? Really cant understand how that was even possible if they were mounted correctly, but also cant see how they could have been mounted incorrectly without me noticing with about a week of skiing on them already..

**This post was edited on Feb 3rd 2019 at 5:22:57pm
 
13994811:Mar-O said:
As I see more people here has written about I'm also struggling with not being able to lock the toe piece in walk mode, anyone found a solution or gotten a new pair on warranty yet or still just need to keep them inside over night to avoid them icing up?

Also really weird thing happen today when touring, the brake fell off when. Had to screw the entire heel part out to re attach the brakes. Anyone else had this happen? Really cant understand how that was even possible if they were mounted correctly, but also cant see how they could have been mounted incorrectly without me noticing with about a week of skiing on them already..
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For the first part I just make sure to get the ice off any time I transition. If they’re clear of ice they lock with a good pull. If they’re not clear I even have issues getting the pins to open up to get my boot in. Like LeeLau has mentioned the binding is sensitive to ice and snow buildup. Best to just keep it as clear as possible.

The brake issue sounds like no fun. Haven’t heard of that happening before!
 
13994811:Mar-O said:
As I see more people here has written about I'm also struggling with not being able to lock the toe piece in walk mode, anyone found a solution or gotten a new pair on warranty yet or still just need to keep them inside over night to avoid them icing up?

Also really weird thing happen today when touring, the brake suddenly fell off. Had to screw the entire heel part out to re attach the brakes. Anyone else had this happen? Really cant understand how that was even possible if they were mounted correctly, but also cant see how they could have been mounted incorrectly without me noticing with about a week of skiing on them already..

**This post was edited on Feb 3rd 2019 at 5:22:57pm
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If you took the screws out make sure to have thrown some glue back in!

On a side note I purchased these bindings and seeing all this stuff kinda makes me worried; despite only one use mine worked great though!
 
13994915:f100prerunner said:
If you took the screws out make sure to have thrown some glue back in!

On a side note I purchased these bindings and seeing all this stuff kinda makes me worried; despite only one use mine worked great though!
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Didn't take any screws out, just screwed on the length adjuster until I was able to slide the heel part off the tracks, if that made any more sense. Luckikly I was just able to turn that screw around with my keys, but for next time I have for sure learned that it's probably a good idea to bring some basic tools..
 
So having some issues with my Lange freetour boots. Have adjusted the toe height to its max and have replaced my toe and heels so they are literally brand new, never warn. and yet i am still getting tons of play in the toe, i reckon coming up 1cm of movement which obviously means i pre release constantly.

First picture is my Lange boots pulled up to show how much gap between the toe and AFD, and the 2nd picture is my dalbello scorpion 130s (full din sole not been raised or routered) with minimal wear. As you can see my dalbellos sit with no play like they should.

Ive also attached a video of how much play there is in the toe.
 
13996164:JibbaTheHutt said:
So having some issues with my Lange freetour boots. Have adjusted the toe height to its max and have replaced my toe and heels so they are literally brand new, never warn. and yet i am still getting tons of play in the toe, i reckon coming up 1cm of movement which obviously means i pre release constantly.

First picture is my Lange boots pulled up to show how much gap between the toe and AFD, and the 2nd picture is my dalbello scorpion 130s (full din sole not been raised or routered) with minimal wear. As you can see my dalbellos sit with no play like they should.

Ive also attached a video of how much play there is in the toe.
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Is that with the toe pins in touring mode? I.e, with the toe pins in the inserts of your freetours?
 
13996190:BrawnTrends said:
That doesn't look adjusted to the max to me. Mine go higher than that.
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fully adjusted, also as i said my dalbello race boots fit perfectly (maybe even too tight) with afd adjusted to that point. so strange that a WTR sole has that amount of space.
 
13996190:BrawnTrends said:
That doesn't look adjusted to the max to me. Mine go higher than that.
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ahahah scratch that, the afd was just jammed so it could go any higher, a bit of brute force and ignorance lossened the screw up and now it appears to be holding at the proper position!
 
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