BrawnTrends
Active member
14052824:cobra_commander said:
Welcome to Europe
Hawx Ultra XTD
- Thread starter onenerdykid
- Start date
Welcome to Europe
onenerdykid
Active member
14052824:cobra_commander said:
It's for sure unlikely in mountain areas or more progressive shops where this boot is "at home". But, as you get into city shops or areas like the east coast or Europe where it's more system skis & hard snow, this does become more frequently seen.
Well, since I now have last years xtd120, do you know [tag=134699]@onenerdykid[/tag] if Atomic will sell this years "booster-straps" as spare part. Either the XTD og Redster strap is fine. In the podcast you mentioned a strap that is cut horizonaly to accomodate both the liner and the cuff, any chance I could get a hand on those?
onenerdykid
Active member
14053039:n3vrast said:
XTD Cam straps and Redster Dual Straps (what we talked about in the podcast) are available this fall. Shops usually don't stock spare parts, but they can order them for sure.
hemlockjibber8
Active member
Just finished the gear30 podcast on plastics and flex. Such a good series. Thanks for doing those Matt. I'd love to hear you elaborate on plastics and their effects on bootfitting. You briefly touched on it but from my experience there is so much variance in how the plastics punch, hold, grind, etc even in a single category (PU or PA). I'd love to hear more.
Also, what makes a plastic work for memory fit?
Also, what makes a plastic work for memory fit?
cobra_commander
Active member
14052924:BrawnTrends said:
I understand the brexit desire more now.
I'm in the market for a new boot and this one is top of my list at the moment. I currently ski a 28.5 Lange Freetour (not the low volume version) boot with punches to make way for my wide forefoot and bits stuck on the liner to improve my heel hold. The problem is that the boot is just too heavy for any significant touring and does not have a great range of motion, hence my need for another boot.
I believe I have a (very) wide forefoot at I think around a 110-111mm last. This doesn't make too much sense because I can fit into the lange freetour which is a 100mm last but I guess the combo of bigger shell size (104 last for 28), punching and liner moulding get me to where I need to be. I also have skinny ankles (and so struggle with getting the ankle locked in) and a really high instep which means I find it pretty hard to get some boots on and off. I think I tried a Salomon MTN and could not even get it on my foot.
I will try on the Hawx XTD (as well as the Zero G and Hoji Free) as soon as I can get the chance to with a new 2020 version but I'm sure I will find them tight. My question (I guess for [tag=134699]@onenerdykid[/tag] ) is how much can I expect to be able to get from the shell with memory fit/punching? How do I know if I should go ahead with the fitting process or admit defeat and find a bigger volume boot? The thing is, in this category, as far as I can tell, most boots are around the 98-100mm last width anyway so I should look at the boot that could be moulded and shaped the most and this seems to be the Hawx. I saw somewhere on this thread that [tag=250896]@LeeLau[/tag] managed to get the Hawx to fit his wide feet so I feel like there is hope.
[tag=134699]@onenerdykid[/tag] very interested in your feedback if you have any. Just listened to your podcasts on Blister. As an engineer in the bike industry, that was very interesting, especially the comparison with DH biking and working with athletes, nice!
**This post was edited on Sep 12th 2019 at 8:45:41am
I believe I have a (very) wide forefoot at I think around a 110-111mm last. This doesn't make too much sense because I can fit into the lange freetour which is a 100mm last but I guess the combo of bigger shell size (104 last for 28), punching and liner moulding get me to where I need to be. I also have skinny ankles (and so struggle with getting the ankle locked in) and a really high instep which means I find it pretty hard to get some boots on and off. I think I tried a Salomon MTN and could not even get it on my foot.
I will try on the Hawx XTD (as well as the Zero G and Hoji Free) as soon as I can get the chance to with a new 2020 version but I'm sure I will find them tight. My question (I guess for [tag=134699]@onenerdykid[/tag] ) is how much can I expect to be able to get from the shell with memory fit/punching? How do I know if I should go ahead with the fitting process or admit defeat and find a bigger volume boot? The thing is, in this category, as far as I can tell, most boots are around the 98-100mm last width anyway so I should look at the boot that could be moulded and shaped the most and this seems to be the Hawx. I saw somewhere on this thread that [tag=250896]@LeeLau[/tag] managed to get the Hawx to fit his wide feet so I feel like there is hope.
[tag=134699]@onenerdykid[/tag] very interested in your feedback if you have any. Just listened to your podcasts on Blister. As an engineer in the bike industry, that was very interesting, especially the comparison with DH biking and working with athletes, nice!
**This post was edited on Sep 12th 2019 at 8:45:41am
onenerdykid
Active member
14058243:stim said:
[tag=268521]@stim[/tag] Nice, glad you are digging the podcasts! Jonathan and I are planning to record another one this Tuesday. What do you do in the bike industry?
It's quite easy to get 10mm out of an Ultra XTD 130. I don't think you'll have an issue at all making that boot work for the footshape you've described.
14058825:onenerdykid said:
[tag=134699]@onenerdykid[/tag] thanks for the details. I was wondering whether I should get the shop to grind the foot bed before heat moulding the shells (assuming I find them tight across the top when try them on)? If they grind the foot bed after the shells are moulded, all the expanded bits will be in the wrong place. Any experience of this?
So far it seems like the new models won't be in Swiss shops for a few weeks so I have to wait a bit.
Thanks again for your help!
onenerdykid
Active member
14059133:stim said:
When you say footbed, are you referring to the actual footbed (insole) or the boot board that lives under the liner?
Either way, it's best to adjust the volume first then mold the shell. Otherwise, as you noted, you will mold your ankle at one height and then it will be lower than the molded shape if you drop the insole/boot board after molding.
Not to get off topic, but could you [tag=134699]@onenerdykid[/tag] clarify the flex on the new range of backland boots? Is there a difference similar (or something funky liner differences) to the XTD where the 120 is for resort use and 130 for touring?
Also, I really like the fit of the shape of the XTD range of boots but the instep is too high for me. Ive heard that salomon has a lower instep (confirmed on testing), is there any chance you share the foot molds from the XTD boots to salomon (qst or S/max)?
I`ve sold off the XTD 120 and 130 to replace them with a lower insted boot. Currently the QST120 is the best option but the walk mechanism has to low ROM forward. I`m thinking of byuing the Smax and then supply with a touring boot like the backland. But they must be powerfull enpugh to handle 4frnt Hojis/raven with shifts on.
Any thoughts on this?
Also, I really like the fit of the shape of the XTD range of boots but the instep is too high for me. Ive heard that salomon has a lower instep (confirmed on testing), is there any chance you share the foot molds from the XTD boots to salomon (qst or S/max)?
I`ve sold off the XTD 120 and 130 to replace them with a lower insted boot. Currently the QST120 is the best option but the walk mechanism has to low ROM forward. I`m thinking of byuing the Smax and then supply with a touring boot like the backland. But they must be powerfull enpugh to handle 4frnt Hojis/raven with shifts on.
Any thoughts on this?
onenerdykid
Active member
14061436:n3vrast said:
Backland Carbon is about a 110 flex (on our robot it has the same flex pattern as a Hawx Prime 110 S). These are a traditional/classic touring boot. Nothing to use for resort/alpine skiing and they are not Shift/Warden compatible (they are TLT binding only).
Bummer you had to get rid of the boots. We don't share any molds or lasts with Salomon- we're totally separate companies when it comes to boots. But I can tell you that their last in the QST is higher volume than our Ultra XTD. And the S/Max series is only about 3mm lower in the instep than Ultra/Ultra XTD. Which is lower but not crazy low. If you still have the XTD boots, perhaps play around with certain liner options? Something with a thicker tongue or foam option?
WHITEFISHNATE
Member
I tried on 5 or 6 different boots and decided to get the Hawx Ultra XTD 130. I absolutely love them so far! I am coming from a cheap Dalbello boot so these are night and day different! A couple of questions.....
Is there a trick to getting these on and off? I'm fairly flexible and not a puss, but of all the boots I tried on, these things kill me to get in and out of them. I have tried it with walk mode and ski mode and nothing seems to make a difference. I am hoping they get a little better, because I can barely get them on and off in my living room when they are room temp, I cant imagine getting them on in the parking lot!
I have a high arch and put in some redhot superfeet insoals in them and they fit perfect everywhere except the outside of my little toe, and there is some pressure on the top of my foot but it's no uncomfortable. The little toe is borderline uncomfortable. Should I just ski them like they are? I don't want to do anything that affects my heel lock.
I am not a great skier, and my biggest issue is in my form and getting my weight forward and forward pressure on the boots. I am planning on working on that this year, and hopefully going from 90's to 130's will help in that area too. My question is, should I change the angle to 17 from the 15 degrees? I read a post saying how to do that by unscrewing the walking mechanism and flipping the bracket, but what is the spoiler for? Doesn't that do the same thing?
Is there a trick to getting these on and off? I'm fairly flexible and not a puss, but of all the boots I tried on, these things kill me to get in and out of them. I have tried it with walk mode and ski mode and nothing seems to make a difference. I am hoping they get a little better, because I can barely get them on and off in my living room when they are room temp, I cant imagine getting them on in the parking lot!
I have a high arch and put in some redhot superfeet insoals in them and they fit perfect everywhere except the outside of my little toe, and there is some pressure on the top of my foot but it's no uncomfortable. The little toe is borderline uncomfortable. Should I just ski them like they are? I don't want to do anything that affects my heel lock.
I am not a great skier, and my biggest issue is in my form and getting my weight forward and forward pressure on the boots. I am planning on working on that this year, and hopefully going from 90's to 130's will help in that area too. My question is, should I change the angle to 17 from the 15 degrees? I read a post saying how to do that by unscrewing the walking mechanism and flipping the bracket, but what is the spoiler for? Doesn't that do the same thing?
onenerdykid
Active member
14067152:WHITEFISHNATE said:
Not being snarky, but Google "how to put on ski boots" or "how to put on race boots"- you will see the proper techniques for how to open a lower shell with the tongue of the liner. You can also put the liner on first and then step into the shell with the liner on your foot- but this can chew up the heel of your liner over time.
For fit- see your boot-fitter. He/She can examine the space at your toe and then see if you need a stretch or not.
Same for the forward lean. Get an ankle flexibility assessment done before you change anything and stress your Achilles.
BrawnTrends
Active member
14067152:WHITEFISHNATE said:
Oh boy, you're in for quite the ride.
WHITEFISHNATE
Member
14067305:Profahoben_212 said:
No, I was trying to get them on with the liner in to not wear down the liner.
cobra_commander
Active member
Where da XTD Magna at?
WHITEFISHNATE
Member
What do you mean?
14067320:BrawnTrends said:
BrawnTrends
Active member
14068367:WHITEFISHNATE said:
It's a world's difference in term of stiffness. Have you ever skied a boot stiffer than a 90?
WHITEFISHNATE
Member
14068382:BrawnTrends said:
No I haven't. I'm assuming more power to the ground?
BrawnTrends
Active member
The first couple runs in them are going to be interesting for sure!
WHITEFISHNATE
Member
14068475:BrawnTrends said:
New Sakanas and new boots. I'm excited
I just had these boots fitted and was amazed by how much you can get from the memory fit. My foot measured up at least 115mm at the last and I have a very high instep. I have a size 28 (102mm last) and only with the memory fit (plus double foam on the outside and top of my foot and toe caps) they already feel pretty spot on. I was convinced I would need some extra work but so far so good. Lets see after a weekend skiing. Thanks to [tag=134699]@onenerdykid[/tag] for the advice so far.
onenerdykid
Active member
14081889:stim said:
Sounds like an awesome start! Love hearing stories like this, for me it makes it all worth while. Cheers!
WHITEFISHNATE
Member
Cant wait to get on these next week! I've been wearing them around the house for about an hour a day and feel like they are pretty comfortable and supportive. I have some pressure on the top and outside of my little toe, but thats it. Should I just ski them as they came out of the box or should I get them heat molded?
ScowlFlake
New member
Hello to everybody, i just buy these boots atomic hawx ultra xtd 130 
.
could anyone explain to me where we use , for what reason and how we assembling these two ''plastic''
I am looking for instructions more than 5hours but nothing :-/
thanks in advance
.could anyone explain to me where we use , for what reason and how we assembling these two ''plastic''
I am looking for instructions more than 5hours but nothing :-/
thanks in advance
Barmski
Active member
pm sent, thank you.
topic:onenerdykid said:Hey NS, to
We've made a fun new range of boots called the Hawx Ultra XTD ("extended"). If you have any questions about them, drop your queries here and I will do my best to answer them.
Here are some general details:
Das Range:
FAQs
Who is this boot for? Literally, the skier who wants one boot for almost all types of skiing. This boot is the ONLY touring-mode boot that flexes and feels like a real alpine boot, yet has 54° of cuff mobility, lightest-in-category weight (1.42kg), and fits better than anything else.
How is this possible? By combining the best of Hawx Ultra and the best of Backland. We use all of our alpine know-how to make sure it skis the best, and we use our touring know-how to make sure it tours the best.
Does skiing performance change because of this boot’s low weight? No – our main goal in making this boot was that it skied just like normal Hawx Ultra. Progressive and powerful, no compromise.
How do I set up the boot for touring? Unlike Backland, you will need to unbuckle the cuff and loosen the power strap in addition to disengaging the Free/Lock 2.0 mechanism. Position the buckle catcher into the hook on the tooth plate, and “close” the buckle. This will open the cuff enough to provide all 54° of cuff mobility.
What kind of sole is that? All models utilize an integrated WTR rubber sole. The sole is integrated (glued on) in order to save weight, provide the best traction, and reduce stand height. WTR is a type of Touring Norm (ISO 9523) that uses hard plastic AFDs in the toe & heel in order to provide a TÜV-approved safe release and 100% power transfer to the binding. It fits all pin-style bindings (including Kingpin), all WTR bindings, and any binding that accepts an ISO 9523 sole (Warden, Marker Duke, Marker Griffon ID, etc.). It does not fit standard alpine bindings (Z-series, X-series, Lithium, Mercury, etc.) nor Grip Walk bindings.
Why not just use a “normal” full rubber sole? While full rubber soles are great, they have their drawbacks. First, in an alpine-style binding (i.e. Warden), rubber soles will compress during skiing causing a loss in power transfer from the boot to the ski. This means your “130” flex boot isn’t behaving like a 130. Secondly, we wanted to ensure the safest release from the binding possible and this means adding plastic AFDs. Jamming your full rubber sole into an STH2 16 binding is a really good way to injure yourself.
Can I heat the Platinum/Gold liner on its own? Yes – if you don’t want to do Memory Fit, you can heat the liner on a hot-air blower for 15 minutes or in a Memory Fit oven for 3-4 minutes.
How do I wash the Platinum/Gold liner? As with Backland liners, hand wash only in 30°C/86°F water and air dry only.
What tech inserts are used in the boot? All Hawx Ultra XTD models use Dynafit Certified tech inserts.
What plastics are used in the boot? All lower shells are Grilamid, one of the lightest, strongest, and best skiing plastics available. The cuffs of the 130 & 110 W are also Grilamid, while the cuffs of the 120, 100, and 90W are PU.
onenerdykid
Active member
14082735:ScowlFlake said:Hello to everybody, i just buy these boots atomic hawx ultra xtd 130
could anyone explain to me where we use , for what reason and how we assembling these two ''plastic''
I am looking for instructions more than 5hours but nothing :-/
thanks in advance
View attachment 946419
View attachment 946420
View attachment 946421
The black pieces you circled are race department spoilers that attach to the back off the cuff (you unscrew the power strap, pop out the claw nut from the cuff, attach the claw nut to the spoiler, use the longer screws to attach the power strap and the spoiler to the cuff).
They are used to increase forward lean and/or take up volume if you have skinny calf muscles.
if you are unsure what to do, you should talk with your local boot-fitter.
hemlockjibber8
Active member
I've got a bit of play developing in my walk mode. I figured I could replace the lever, etc and it would tighten up. However, my local shop that carries Atomic is not good at ordering things and I would prefer to do it myself. The part is not listed on the spare parts page. Could you direct me to where I can order it?
onenerdykid
Active member
14083279:hemlockjibber8 said:
Specific spare parts like this are not sold on the normal spare parts page, so you'll need to go through a dealer unfortunately.
Are you sure the play is in the mechanism, or maybe in the cuff pivot hardware? Just check all possible areas where play could develop before you have a part ordered.
aanev
Member
Although these boots are not 'alpine', IMHO they are very capable to get the job done. Keeping in mind that they have either WTR (previous version) or GripWalk(latest version) and checking binding compatibility, you won't be skiing WC skis with them. But if you want to carve at mach1 with all-mountain skis like Blizzard Brahma or Atomic Vantage 90, Hawx XTD will definitely be enough boot. I would recommend getting the 120 version if you plan to use it as do-it-all boot. Or ever better - buy 130's + Gold(120's) Liners.
P.S. I ski the 120's regularly on groomers paired with Atomic Vantage 90CTi 184cm and Salomon Warden 13 MNC bindings.
P.S. I ski the 120's regularly on groomers paired with Atomic Vantage 90CTi 184cm and Salomon Warden 13 MNC bindings.
I have Ultra XTD 130 18/19 with Intuition Tour Wrap liner. It’s great for touring but pretty harsh on resort. Is there any way to make boot feel plusher for resort riding? As close as it could be to plush but stiff alpine boot?
Ps my favorite boot is Dalbello KR2, but sometimes I want to travel with only one boot and make as few compromises as possible when taking only XTDs.
Ps my favorite boot is Dalbello KR2, but sometimes I want to travel with only one boot and make as few compromises as possible when taking only XTDs.
BrawnTrends
Active member
So I just received my 2020 XTD 130 liners, they are pretty amazing in the hand, they look great, super light. But once I put them in my boots with my insoles they feel reeeeallyyyy tight compared to my XTD 120 liners (which felt really comfy right out of the box). I haven't skied them yet but will they get much more comfortable if I have them heat molded? Because right now my toes are mega cramped and I don't really see myself skinning for several hours wearing them as is...
They do feel very firm though, I'm a little scared to get insane shinbang with them, but I didn't buy them for the comfort of skiing downhill, so as long as they are really good on the up I'll be happy.
They do feel very firm though, I'm a little scared to get insane shinbang with them, but I didn't buy them for the comfort of skiing downhill, so as long as they are really good on the up I'll be happy.
onenerdykid
Active member
14103064:BrawnTrends said:
Yes, you definitely want to have these liners heat molded. It would be like skiing an Intuition unmolded, and that would not be great.
BrawnTrends
Active member
Gah, yes that sounds bad. Ok I'll bring a pack of beer to my local shop and have them fitted properly. Thanks!
soupcan
Member
Just wanted to come in here and say that I’m a big fan of my ultra hawx xtd 120’s! They ski really well for how light they are and the walk mech is super easy and intuitive. I did end up throwing a power wrap liner in them cause I love how those ride inbounds and fit my foot but I don’t think the stock liner was bad for the 6 or so day I was in it and I will keep it cause it walks pretty decent in comparison to the intuition!
Ex bootfitter and is about to get new boots and due to kids I doesnt want several boots, no place packing and all money goes to the kids snowboard addiction . Do want a boot for most downhill (inbounds groomers) use but do want to be able to tour with it. Have tried every boot existing and the only one that really fits my feet is the Atomic hawx Xtd 120. And seriously it fits like nothing I experienced before, so good. Out of the box the fit (in store) is better then all my other boots even though they have gone through lots of bootfitting and modifications. But after reading for example blisters review and buyers guide they place the the XTD (even the 120) as a pure touring boot I get really hesitant.
Some one who have real life experince from other alternatives from Lange (,XT freetour) Head (Kore), Technica (cochise) etc vs the Xtd 120? Why would they work better then the XTD 120 for downhill use? just standing in a shop its really hard to say anything about flex when atomics truflex makes the boots behave much like it would when its cold and langes or Technicas feels really soft forward flex wise
I also wonder if Atomic have made changes to the 120 version to this years as the stated weight is approx 200g heavier then the version from 2018 that many review were on.
What do you say @onenerdykid
Thanks on forehand
. Do want a boot for most downhill (inbounds groomers) use but do want to be able to tour with it. Have tried every boot existing and the only one that really fits my feet is the Atomic hawx Xtd 120. And seriously it fits like nothing I experienced before, so good. Out of the box the fit (in store) is better then all my other boots even though they have gone through lots of bootfitting and modifications. But after reading for example blisters review and buyers guide they place the the XTD (even the 120) as a pure touring boot I get really hesitant.Some one who have real life experince from other alternatives from Lange (,XT freetour) Head (Kore), Technica (cochise) etc vs the Xtd 120? Why would they work better then the XTD 120 for downhill use? just standing in a shop its really hard to say anything about flex when atomics truflex makes the boots behave much like it would when its cold and langes or Technicas feels really soft forward flex wise
I also wonder if Atomic have made changes to the 120 version to this years as the stated weight is approx 200g heavier then the version from 2018 that many review were on.
What do you say @onenerdykid
Thanks on forehand
Didn’t look through the whole thread, but is there a link to buy the machine screws that secure the walk mechanism on the XTD? Closest I’ve been able to find in the states is annoyingly a size down hex and still seems to loosen even with locktite.
For anyone touring, add the hex wrench for these to your fix kit now, before you need it.
First and only problem with this boot, after at least 100+ days of big tours, including a 20 hour car to car mission last year in WA.
I’d revise my original review - fucking awesome boot.
For anyone touring, add the hex wrench for these to your fix kit now, before you need it.
First and only problem with this boot, after at least 100+ days of big tours, including a 20 hour car to car mission last year in WA.
I’d revise my original review - fucking awesome boot.
onenerdykid
Active member
14104475:Cgare said:Ex bootfitter and is about to get new boots and due to kids I doesnt want several boots, no place packing and all money goes to the kids snowboard addiction
Some one who have real life experince from other alternatives from Lange (,XT freetour) Head (Kore), Technica (cochise) etc vs the Xtd 120? Why would they work better then the XTD 120 for downhill use? just standing in a shop its really hard to say anything about flex when atomics truflex makes the boots behave much like it would when its cold and langes or Technicas feels really soft forward flex wise
I also wonder if Atomic have made changes to the 120 version to this years as the stated weight is approx 200g heavier then the version from 2018 that many review were on.
What do you say @onenerdykid
Thanks on forehand
The Ultra XTD 120 is definitely going to be more of a light alpine boot with a ski/walk function. It's a boot you can go touring with, but it's designed & optimized to ski & fit like a normal/real alpine boot.
The weight shouldn't be that much heavier than before, or at all really. Make sure you are comparing the weight of the new120 to the "old" 120 and not to the 130.
120 shell, cuff, and liner are the same for this year (19/20) but we updated the sole to GripWalk and made some big improvements to the buckles. Weight should be within 50g of the previous model year.
onenerdykid
Active member
14104605:RudyGarmisch said:
I legit appreciate that.
The 19/20 version of the boot that's in stores now has longer screws that result in a better purchase in the Flip Chip. I can send you some screws, PM me your address & phone number (our shipping form requires it).
In the meantime, toss a bit of white teflon tape (sometimes called plumber's tape) on the threads and it should never back out.
onenerdykid
Active member
14105168:severniy said:
Atomic/Salomon Warden 13 MNC or STH2 WTR. Other bindings don't adjust to the full span of what is allowable within the touring/WTR norm and you can run into some clearance issues with the toe. Heel pieces are the same between the bindings and they have 30mm of adjustment.
onenerdykid
Active member
14105211:severniy said:
I've heard yes, but have not personally confirmed this.
The problem with that binding is that WTR is not one dimension, which is how that binding adjusts. WTR & the Touring Norm have a range of possible dimensions, and they picked one, rather than allow for a range of adjustment.