Hawx Ultra XTD

13983613:.MASSHOLE. said:
So this may not be the right thread, but OneNerdyKid, what is the target market for this boot?
https://www.wearable-technologies.c...able-atomic-unveils-smart-connected-ski-boot/
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This project will be for people who really want to accurately know more about their balance while skiing and how they can improve their balance. Sure it does fun things like g-force, turn count, run count, elevation, etc. etc. but the main point of difference will be the most accurate way to improve your balance while skiing. The sensors that are in the boot and the Movesense tracker on the back of the boot are unlike any other thing that is currently on the market.

In summary, probably not the NS crowd ;)
 
13983804:onenerdykid said:
This project will be for people who really want to accurately know more about their balance while skiing and how they can improve their balance. Sure it does fun things like g-force, turn count, run count, elevation, etc. etc. but the main point of difference will be the most accurate way to improve your balance while skiing. The sensors that are in the boot and the Movesense tracker on the back of the boot are unlike any other thing that is currently on the market.

In summary, probably not the NS crowd ;)
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How does this differ from what Carv are doing?https://getcarv.com/
 
13983808:razors-chaz said:
How does this differ from what Carv are doing?https://getcarv.com/
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Carv is an insole, so that means you can't use a custom footbed. That's a horrible idea...

We have sensors in the liner strobel sole (so you can use whatever footbed you want), sensors in the tongue, and sensors in the calf. Doing this allows us to be much more accurate with the data that is collected.
 
13983810:onenerdykid said:
Carv is an insole, so that means you can't use a custom footbed. That's a horrible idea...

We have sensors in the liner strobel sole (so you can use whatever footbed you want), sensors in the tongue, and sensors in the calf. Doing this allows us to be much more accurate with the data that is collected.
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Guess that's the difference between an aftermarket version and a version developed by a boot company and integration and expansion of the sensors to tongue and calf would probably be their end goal.

Seems they've been beaten to the punch, although there maybe still another chance partnering with another brand.

imho (not really knowing how the tech works) they would likely just be better off developing a smart sock with sensors in the same places as your liner, meaning you can use a custom footbed.

(I'm not particularly interested in the tech, just wanted to know what the difference was)
 
13983810:onenerdykid said:
Carv is an insole, so that means you can't use a custom footbed. That's a horrible idea...

We have sensors in the liner strobel sole (so you can use whatever footbed you want), sensors in the tongue, and sensors in the calf. Doing this allows us to be much more accurate with the data that is collected.
Click to expand...

I read their faq and it doesnt seem as horrible as thought. It goes between the liner and boot board so no problems with custom footbeds.

I guess it's less accurate without the tongue and calf sensors though.
 
Onenerdykid, are you able to clarify the lower shell material on the HAWX ULTRA XTD 90 W? At the top of this page, it says "All lower shells are Grilamid". However the Atomic website lists the lower shells as PU. My wife is looking at these boots and while the exact material is not super important to her we are trying to account for some of the weight difference between the W90 and W110. I suspect some of the difference is with the liner but still, wondering about shell weight if the plastic is different. She's 5'1" and 110 lbs & often touring boots that fit are super stiff.
 
13984711:killick said:
Onenerdykid, are you able to clarify the lower shell material on the HAWX ULTRA XTD 90 W? At the top of this page, it says "All lower shells are Grilamid". However the Atomic website lists the lower shells as PU. My wife is looking at these boots and while the exact material is not super important to her we are trying to account for some of the weight difference between the W90 and W110. I suspect some of the difference is with the liner but still, wondering about shell weight if the plastic is different. She's 5'1" and 110 lbs & often touring boots that fit are super stiff.
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Hey there, yeah the original thread is from two years ago, so some specs have changed and the website is always going to have to latest/most current information. So, just to be clear, the 90 W uses a PU shell & cuff and a more alpine-oriented liner with a touring flex zone in the Achilles area. OK for touring, but mainly a resort boot. If you are looking for a 80-100% touring boot, you might want to swap out the liner for something lighter and that has a bit more mobility.
 
Thanks Onenerdykid, does the PU shell increase the weight much? Or is it the liner? Wife would prefer the 110W but likely needs the 90 flex. This will be a 85% touring 15% resort boot.
 
13984979:killick said:
Thanks Onenerdykid, does the PU shell increase the weight much? Or is it the liner? Wife would prefer the 110W but likely needs the 90 flex. This will be a 85% touring 15% resort boot.
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PA is about 25% lighter than PU, and the 90 liner is about 100-120g heavier than the more touring oriented one found in the 110 boot.

I would get the 90 boot and find a lighter liner that would work for her foot shape. We do sell the 100W liner as an aftermarket part. Your Atomic dealer can order it for her.
 
13981774:chicken said:
Skied my new xtd 130. Boot performs amazing. Looking for a denser liner to protect my shins on resort days. Any reccomendation? How does this boot hold up to moderate park riding? Doesn't seem like the most durable boot.
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I'm using the Intuition Dreamliner for shorter tours (~3 hours) and resort and i love it, perfect stiffness for me, feels like my Scarpa Freedoms which is what i was going for
 
I am obviously late to the party here. So I have some 2017 Jester ID bindings on my resort setup and as others figured out, this boot does not fit in the toe. I am looking to swap these bindings out but now I am concerned about getting something that may not fit. Looking for something that will be hard charging on a ski 112 underfoot. It looks like the next best may be a Pivot 18 with a swapped AFD. Has anybody else done that and confirmed it worked? How about a STH2 16? I assume the STH2 would work as it is the same manufacturer but stranger things have happened. I appreciate any insight.
 
Pivot 18 with WTR AFD works. Have been riding an XTD 130 w/ WTR AFDs as my inbounds this season and all of last. No issue. May be hard to track down AFDs though, CAST Touring is the only place I could find them and their description is weird, talks about toe pedestals, not sure if its referencing the Pivot itself or the CAST conversion kit. Would be worth calling them
 
Onenerdykid- I just bought some hawx ultra 130s, bootfitter etc and sized down. Love the heel hold but pretty tight in the toe box.

Wondering if/when I should heat mold the shells, bootfitter says molding risks changing the heel and that I should ski them 10+ days and try a toe punch before molding. Care more about performance than comfort, but if molding the shells is all benefit /no risk I'd like to know.

Pumped to get out of these sloppy full tilts, but don't want to fck up my 800$ investment.

What's your advice?
 
13991010:Wasatch07 said:
Onenerdykid- I just bought some hawx ultra 130s, bootfitter etc and sized down. Love the heel hold but pretty tight in the toe box.

Wondering if/when I should heat mold the shells, bootfitter says molding risks changing the heel and that I should ski them 10+ days and try a toe punch before molding. Care more about performance than comfort, but if molding the shells is all benefit /no risk I'd like to know.

Pumped to get out of these sloppy full tilts, but don't want to fck up my 800$ investment.

What's your advice?
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Given how you described your preferences, I would go with spot stretching as you need it. It might take a bit longer to dial in the fit, but you will be happier with the end result. If you don't need to reshape the entire shell, then just work on what you need worked on.

13991078:RudyGarmisch said:
Nice boot.
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Thanks, glad you are digging it!
 
Sooo got a bit of a boot issue. After 3 days in some Griffon 13 IDs I have noticed that the heel of the binding is chewing on the heel lip my XTDs. The heel on the Griffon is non adjustable right? And Ive heard that others have reported the same issue on this binding, is my boot ruined, should I buy a new binding (STHs? Pivot WTR?) or should I blame Marker or Nerdy for a ruined boot?

Nerdy; is there any binding you/Amer sport can garantie that is chew free on the XTD?

**This post was edited on Jan 26th 2019 at 3:51:16pm
 
13991236:n3vrast said:
Sooo got a bit of a boot issue. After 3 days in some Griffon 13 IDs I have noticed that the heel of the binding is chewing on the heel lip my XTDs. The heel on the Griffon is non adjustable right? And Ive heard that others have reported the same issue on this binding, is my boot ruined, should I buy a new binding (STHs? Pivot WTR?) or should I blame Marker or Nerdy for a ruined boot?

Nerdy; is there any binding you/Amer sport can garantie that is chew free on the XTD?

**This post was edited on Jan 26th 2019 at 3:51:16pm
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Boot's not ruined, just keep an eye on it.

Heel designs like Marker's use a "single pivot" style heel, and we find that these aren't as nice to boot heels like ones that have a camming action, such as an STH2 or Warden- these adjust as they clamp down (rather than keep digging directly into the boot) . My first gen XTDs have probably 100 days on them and they have some small dings on the heel lip but nothing I would ever get worried about. Just keep an eye on it and it if gets worse you should think about getting STH2s or Wardens.
 
13991156:onenerdykid said:
Given how you described your preferences, I would go with spot stretching as you need it. It might take a bit longer to dial in the fit, but you will be happier with the end result. If you don't need to reshape the entire shell, then just work on what you need worked on.

Thanks, glad you are digging it!
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Thanks a ton man
 
Quick question about the XTD and Pivot Dual WTR, is it normal that I have absolutely no space between the sole and the AFD plate (which is set to WTR mode, obviously, but doesn't slide at all once the boot is clicked in)? It looks a little scary, I'm not gonna lie...

**This post was edited on Feb 2nd 2019 at 12:36:04pm
 
After only 25 days of light usage my 120s developed a crack. Quite disappointing considering the fact that it is mid-season and the warranty procedures can easily eat the remaining winter days :(
 
13997511:aanev said:
After only 25 days of light usage my 120s developed a crack. Quite disappointing considering the fact that it is mid-season and the warranty procedures can easily eat the remaining winter days :(
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Hey man, that's a bummer. Have you checked with the shop you bought them from to see if they can do anything for you? Let me know how your conversation with your shop goes. Shoot me a PM and we'll see how to keep you rolling.
 
13998098:severniy said:
@onenerdykid could you please look into it and comment if anyone who buys shift for their Hawx should perform that fix?
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So far, despite the contact, I have not seen an issue with the boot failing a release test with a Shift binding. You may not be able to fit the 0.5mm card in between the sole of the boot and the AFD of the binding, but the ultimate and only official test is a release test.

Our legal team is looking into revising the 0.5mm card test, because this was a test done when binding AFDs were fixed, not gliding. But this is still an open point.

As of right now there is no official update or stance other than testing the boot & binding in a release test. If it passes, which so far they have, then it is good to go.
 
13998112:onenerdykid said:
So far, despite the contact, I have not seen an issue with the boot failing a release test with a Shift binding. You may not be able to fit the 0.5mm card in between the sole of the boot and the AFD of the binding, but the ultimate and only official test is a release test.

Our legal team is looking into revising the 0.5mm card test, because this was a test done when binding AFDs were fixed, not gliding. But this is still an open point.

As of right now there is no official update or stance other than testing the boot & binding in a release test. If it passes, which so far they have, then it is good to go.
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how are we supposed to deal with this in canada? not easy to find someone to do a release test.
 
13998775:chicken said:
how are we supposed to deal with this in canada? not easy to find someone to do a release test.
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What do you mean? Shops in your area aren't doing release tests when mounting bindings?
 
13998794:onenerdykid said:
What do you mean? Shops in your area aren't doing release tests when mounting bindings?
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Not all Canadian shops have a DIN calibrated machine for binding mounts. The one's with rental fleets tend to have one. Smaller ones - not so much
 
13998828:LeeLau said:
Not all Canadian shops have a DIN calibrated machine for binding mounts. The one's with rental fleets tend to have one. Smaller ones - not so much
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But you definitely don't need a mega-expensive Wintersteiger binding machine. You can use something as simple as a Vermont Calibrater, which is relatively cheap and very accurate. Very mom-and-pop friendly.

I'm honestly surprised shops don't regularly perform binding release tests.
 
13998900:onenerdykid said:
But you definitely don't need a mega-expensive Wintersteiger binding machine. You can use something as simple as a Vermont Calibrater, which is relatively cheap and very accurate. Very mom-and-pop friendly.

I'm honestly surprised shops don't regularly perform binding release tests.
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Canucks are pretty ghetto to be honest + lack of lawyers
 
13998900:onenerdykid said:
But you definitely don't need a mega-expensive Wintersteiger binding machine. You can use something as simple as a Vermont Calibrater, which is relatively cheap and very accurate. Very mom-and-pop friendly.

I'm honestly surprised shops don't regularly perform binding release tests.
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doesn't the indemnification say we only have to test them if we have the machine?
 
13998920:chicken said:
doesn't the indemnification say we only have to test them if we have the machine?
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As far as I am aware, it is a "release test", which can be on a fancy machine or with a torque measuring device such as the Vermont Calibrater.
 
13998885:BrawnTrends said:
The shop I worked at in France certainly didn't have any kind of binding test machine...
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Then you were working for the wrong shop.

Don't trust a shop that doesn't release test every binding they touch. Thats a big fucking deal right there.

Also, XTD130 + Shift has passed every release test we've put them through without the toe gap. Vermont calibrater and Wintersteiger Safetronic included.
 
13998923:onenerdykid said:
As far as I am aware, it is a "release test", which can be on a fancy machine or with a torque measuring device such as the Vermont Calibrater.
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I thought in canada you must test the binding if and only if you have the caliper. In canada very few shops have these tools. Honestly with just alpine soles they were not as important as they might be in the future with all of the extra adjustments required for various boot soles.
 
13999037:chicken said:
I thought in canada you must test the binding if and only if you have the caliper. In canada very few shops have these tools. Honestly with just alpine soles they were not as important as they might be in the future with all of the extra adjustments required for various boot soles.
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One of the reasons why you want to test every boot and binding combo is simply due the fact that you might need to adjust DIN settings up or down from what the chart says to use. Even with simple alpine boots.

Bindings are not surgical instruments, and they have a certain amount of tolerance in their springs (which is allowed by the norm). The simple chart may say set everything to 6, but in reality your heel actually needs to be set at 7 (for example) and you will not know this unless a binding release test is done with your specific boot & binding combo.
 
13998957:Peach. said:
Then you were working for the wrong shop.

Don't trust a shop that doesn't release test every binding they touch. Thats a big fucking deal right there.
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Most small shops around here don't have those machines.
 
13999489:Peach. said:
I'm not sure I'd go as far as calling the Vermont Calibrator a "machine"
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I had never heard of a Vermont Calibrator, had to google it, looks like a torture kit. I've only seen/heard of proper binding release test machines, like the Winterstieger speedtronic & safetronic. But i guess they'd be a bit expensive & take up valuable space in a mom & pop ski shop, compared to a Vermont Calibrator.
 
13999665:razors-chaz said:
I had never heard of a Vermont Calibrator, had to google it, looks like a torture kit. I've only seen/heard of proper binding release test machines, like the Winterstieger speedtronic & safetronic. But i guess they'd be a bit expensive & take up valuable space in a mom & pop ski shop, compared to a Vermont Calibrator.
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Honestly, it works really well. When my old shop got a Wintersteiger release testing machine, many of the guys kept using the Vermont Calibrater because they were faster with it.
 
13999671:onenerdykid said:
Honestly, it works really well. When my old shop got a Wintersteiger release testing machine, many of the guys kept using the Vermont Calibrater because they were faster with it.
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I'm sure it does, and I can certainly imagine people being faster with it, based on my experience of a speedtronic. I had to do weekly checks on a sample of our rental skis and boots the season I lived in Mayrhofen, that machine was the bane of my life. Malfunctioned so often, even after the Wintersteiger technician came out to service it, took me twice as long as it should to complete a small sample.
 
I saw a more detailed photo of the new HAWX XTD here:

blisterreview.com (scroll down a little)

..and now I have a couple of questions:

1. Will the new power-strap have some elasticity like the after-market (or Lange) ones?

2. Will the 120 keep the same gold liner as the 18/19 model? And does it compare to the new 130 liner in therms of ski-ability?

Thanks :)
 
14000088:aanev said:
I saw a more detailed photo of the new HAWX XTD here:

blisterreview.com (scroll down a little)

..and now I have a couple of questions:

1. Will the new power-strap have some elasticity like the after-market (or Lange) ones?

2. Will the 120 keep the same gold liner as the 18/19 model? And does it compare to the new 130 liner in therms of ski-ability?

Thanks :)
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1. New power strap is not super elastic (that is a patent protected by Booster) but it is designed to be very conforming to the top of the cuff and the liner tongue so you get a super consistent pressure distribution from cuff to liner tongue to shin. It feels super good.

2. The 120 keeps the same liner from 18/19. It might ski marginally better than the brand new 130 liner, but it won't tour as nicely. I would make the same comparison between an Intuition liner that has a plastic half tongue to a normal alpine ski boot liner.
 
How is the forward lean adjusted on the hawx ultra xtd 130. That is from 15 degrees to 17. Talk about flipping something 180 degrees, i am not getting it....

**This post was edited on Feb 20th 2019 at 6:06:23pm
 
14002025:AbruptCarves said:
How is the forward lean adjusted on the hawx ultra xtd 130. That is from 15 degrees to 17. Talk about flipping something 180 degrees, i am not getting it....

**This post was edited on Feb 20th 2019 at 6:06:23pm
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Standard out of the box position is 15° and it has the option to go to 17°

You do this by:

1. Unscrewing the ski/walk mechanism from the back of the boot

2. Pull the cuff rearward and you will see a metal plate that the ski/walk mechanism attaches to. You flip this 180° to the 17° setting. The number you can read is the setting you get.

3. Put some Loctite on the screws and re-attach the ski walk mechanism.
 
Hi Nerdy

I’ve got pretty narrow (95mm) feet for a mondo size of 27. Low to average instep. It says that the boots can be heated to make them wider. Can they be heated and put in a Fischer vacuum to make them smaller? Thanks
 
14005083:Bbravingtonsim said:
Hi Nerdy

I’ve got pretty narrow (95mm) feet for a mondo size of 27. Low to average instep. It says that the boots can be heated to make them wider. Can they be heated and put in a Fischer vacuum to make them smaller? Thanks
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Or high volume intuitions?
 
14005083:Bbravingtonsim said:
Hi Nerdy

I’ve got pretty narrow (95mm) feet for a mondo size of 27. Low to average instep. It says that the boots can be heated to make them wider. Can they be heated and put in a Fischer vacuum to make them smaller? Thanks
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I've heard of shops doing this. If you have a Fischer shop in your area, you should talk with them to see if they have success with it.
 
14006175:onenerdykid said:
I've heard of shops doing this. If you have a Fischer shop in your area, you should talk with them to see if they have success with it.
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Talked to one shop that wouldn't do it because they worried Fischer would be mad, other shop has done it on a ton of boots and had really good success. So would say, come prepared to tip your fitter handsomely if you try it.

But also, always come prepared to tip your fitter handsomely.
 
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