Hawx Ultra XTD

13963366:chicken said:
my 130's are on the way!

Is there any reason not to heat mold them? I like a really precise fit, so am thinking I might just wear them and punch traditionally if necessary?
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In this case, I would punch as necessary.

13963369:maxwerks said:
@onenerdykid any tips on where to find an XTD 130 in size 24.5? They seem unavailable in Europe. The only pair I located are at the Vail Ski Shop in Tokyo, at an eye watering cost :(
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Evo is the single biggest seller of XTD 130, so I would start there. But from there, it's honestly calling dealers in your area to see what inventory they have.
 
I've got super skinny ankles & small bones for someone 6 foot tall, and a normal forefoot. I've always struggled with ski boots fitting since getting the heel/ankle/lower leg to fit requires downsizing to a way small size or fat butterfly pads. Now, the pair of XTD 130s I have in front of me seem to fit great, except for the forefoot. I'll need some width up front for sure with these but I'm afraid oven heating the shells using the Memory fit process may loosen up the back of the boot. What to do? I talked with a boot fitter and he recommended not oven heating the boot, just pad my foot and use a heatgun to spot heat the problem spots instead of a traditional punch. I kind of like this idea since it may gain me a more natural fit? I've had punches that were just off in location, or feel a little weird.

Thoughts? Would an oven heat of the shells proceeded by my foot with thin socks, padded around the forefoot keep the rear of the boot unchanged? What to do? I don't want to loose any fit on the rear of the boot.
 
13963369:maxwerks said:
@onenerdykid any tips on where to find an XTD 130 in size 24.5? They seem unavailable in Europe. The only pair I located are at the Vail Ski Shop in Tokyo, at an eye watering cost :(
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Oh god. I hope it's all good. I'm trying to get some in Canada
 
13963380:onenerdykid said:
In this case, I would punch as necessary.
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I'd love to nerd out on this for a bit. I'm a boot fitter and am not a fan of heat moldable shells for a precise fit. My coworkers disagree. From my experience, it does loosen the entire boot. If there is any pressure, the shell will expand. If someone wants a tight fit, that means they want pressure. Obviously it works just great for most people out there, but maybe not as well for the top end of things. Thoughts?

Also, I find punching a heat moldable shell much less effective than a traditional shell. I find the plastic much more elastic and needs a considerable time cooling on the punch to hold. I also find the effectiveness to decrease the more the bigger the punch. Do you find that the heat moldable plastic is more elastic then traditional PU? Is punching less effective after you surpass the 5mm expansion capability of the heat molding?

My experience with heat moldable shells is on Salomon Custom shell, usually bi injected.
 
Got these boots for this season and I’m hyped!

They’re definitely a special boot in terms of weight, touring capability and downhill performance. Tecnica has nailed it with the new zero g but it doesn’t have the same alpine boot characteristics as well as salomons competing boot.

After my first day touring on them I did find one drawback! The forward lean isn’t enough when touring. The back movement is plenty with the walk mode enabled. But I find my range of motion being stopped in the front when touring. Generally alpine touring boots seem to get around this by enabling the boot to pivot forward, but the hawx only allow forward movement by un buckling. Was the decision for this to keep its “alpine boot” qualities? I think the boot is still a killer in its category, but I’m generally curious cuz this would be a huge advantage in terms of touring! It’s also something that the tecnica zero g boot does for example (and also the Salomon mtn labs?).
 
13963517:killick said:
I've got super skinny ankles & small bones for someone 6 foot tall, and a normal forefoot. I've always struggled with ski boots fitting since getting the heel/ankle/lower leg to fit requires downsizing to a way small size or fat butterfly pads. Now, the pair of XTD 130s I have in front of me seem to fit great, except for the forefoot. I'll need some width up front for sure with these but I'm afraid oven heating the shells using the Memory fit process may loosen up the back of the boot. What to do? I talked with a boot fitter and he recommended not oven heating the boot, just pad my foot and use a heatgun to spot heat the problem spots instead of a traditional punch. I kind of like this idea since it may gain me a more natural fit? I've had punches that were just off in location, or feel a little weird.

Thoughts? Would an oven heat of the shells proceeded by my foot with thin socks, padded around the forefoot keep the rear of the boot unchanged? What to do? I don't want to loose any fit on the rear of the boot.
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There's nothing wrong with doing traditional spot stretching. If the boot-fitter has legit tools the plastic can be punched. If you want to pad the liner and push the plastic out that way, that will work too, it just won't move as much as with a press.
 
13963579:hemlockjibber8 said:
I'd love to nerd out on this for a bit. I'm a boot fitter and am not a fan of heat moldable shells for a precise fit. My coworkers disagree. From my experience, it does loosen the entire boot. If there is any pressure, the shell will expand. If someone wants a tight fit, that means they want pressure. Obviously it works just great for most people out there, but maybe not as well for the top end of things. Thoughts?

Also, I find punching a heat moldable shell much less effective than a traditional shell. I find the plastic much more elastic and needs a considerable time cooling on the punch to hold. I also find the effectiveness to decrease the more the bigger the punch. Do you find that the heat moldable plastic is more elastic then traditional PU? Is punching less effective after you surpass the 5mm expansion capability of the heat molding?

My experience with heat moldable shells is on Salomon Custom shell, usually bi injected.
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Boot-fitting is all about producing results that work for your customer. Traditional spot stretches work perfectly for when you have that one spot that is bothering the foot. For that instance, just spot stretch. Memory Fit is awesome for when you are trying to stretch an area of the boot that is larger than your boot fitting tools allow, like side of foot up all the way up to the instep. There is no press attachment that can do this. So, just pick the solution that works for your customer's needs and you'll always be successful.

Not all moldable plastic is the same, so you can't make a blanket statement like that. The plastic that we use in Hawx Ultra, that we call True Flex PU, is the most moldable plastic that I have found and it has less shrinkage than any other plastic. That means when you shape it, it stays in that shape far better than anything else. Many brands are jumping on the moldable plastic bandwagon, but from what I have seen, ours works the best at moving and retaining the shape.
 
13963588:SHampson said:
Got these boots for this season and I’m hyped!

They’re definitely a special boot in terms of weight, touring capability and downhill performance. Tecnica has nailed it with the new zero g but it doesn’t have the same alpine boot characteristics as well as salomons competing boot.

After my first day touring on them I did find one drawback! The forward lean isn’t enough when touring. The back movement is plenty with the walk mode enabled. But I find my range of motion being stopped in the front when touring. Generally alpine touring boots seem to get around this by enabling the boot to pivot forward, but the hawx only allow forward movement by un buckling. Was the decision for this to keep its “alpine boot” qualities? I think the boot is still a killer in its category, but I’m generally curious cuz this would be a huge advantage in terms of touring! It’s also something that the tecnica zero g boot does for example (and also the Salomon mtn labs?).
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Glad you are stoked on the boots! As with all overlap touring boots, you will always need to loosen the cuff buckles. That's just the nature of the beast. If you want your touring boot to ski and feel like an overlap alpine boot, you need an overlap construction. For the boots you have, you need to undue the buckle and then place the end (catcher) of the buckle into the silver loop at the end of the toothplate. This will maximize the cuff's forward mobility.
 
13963252:onenerdykid said:
Real FIS-regulation GS skis? No/maybe. Commercial 130 race boots can barely power those skis, so I'd be skeptical of any non-World Cup boot being up for the job. Another problem you will run into here is that no race binding (DIN 16+) can accept a WTR or touring sole. They are 5355 only.

Commercial GS skis (like the Redster G9)? Either boot is definitely powerful enough to ski a commercial race ski, that's for sure not a problem. The problem you will again run into is the boot/binding compatibility. These skis rarely come with an MNC or WTR compatible binding....
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XTD 130''s in size 24 on their from Switzerland, yay! My GS skis are FIS u16 in 183. Will see how the XTD's cope, using the Sidas liner from my 150 flex Atomic slalom boots.
 
13963605:onenerdykid said:
If you want your touring boot to ski and feel like an overlap alpine boot, you need an overlap construction.
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I figured that was the reasoning. I’m wondering if you could get a little bit of forward movement in the boot in walk mode (without unbuckling) WITH overlap construction. Like have the overlap be a tad smaller so it allows a small amount of forward movement. I feel like just having a small amount would add that extra 5-10 degrees forward on top of the boot unbuckling that would make a huge difference for touring! Not saying I’m not stoked on the boots as they are, but just giving feedback for what could make them even better in my mind.
 
13963827:SHampson said:
I figured that was the reasoning. I’m wondering if you could get a little bit of forward movement in the boot in walk mode (without unbuckling) WITH overlap construction. Like have the overlap be a tad smaller so it allows a small amount of forward movement. I feel like just having a small amount would add that extra 5-10 degrees forward on top of the boot unbuckling that would make a huge difference for touring! Not saying I’m not stoked on the boots as they are, but just giving feedback for what could make them even better in my mind.
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There's always ways we can improve things, so be on the look out ;)
 
13889028:onenerdykid said:
Sorry if that came off snarky... I really don't know what we will be able to offer for XTD spare parts in the future. It's all undergoing analysis right now.
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Hello! I've been eyeing these boots for a bit now as my current season upgrade and I'm curious if there's been any movement on what Atomic would be able to provide in the future.

I'm mainly worried that by buying WTR boots now, I'd be locked out of demoing within a year or so if future bindings aren't WTR. Is this even a legitimate concern? I plan on running Shift bindings on my skis (Atomic Access).
 
13965044:menace101 said:
Hello! I've been eyeing these boots for a bit now as my current season upgrade and I'm curious if there's been any movement on what Atomic would be able to provide in the future.

I'm mainly worried that by buying WTR boots now, I'd be locked out of demoing within a year or so if future bindings aren't WTR. Is this even a legitimate concern? I plan on running Shift bindings on my skis (Atomic Access).
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If you buy the boots now, they will still fit future WTR and MNC bindings, such as the Shift, Warden, or STH2. The only bindings they will not work with are system bindings, like what comes on a carving ski. That is the same as now, so your options in the future will still be good, especially for bindings directly associated with the target group- freeride/freeride touring.
 
13965055:onenerdykid said:
If you buy the boots now, they will still fit future WTR and MNC bindings, such as the Shift, Warden, or STH2. The only bindings they will not work with are system bindings, like what comes on a carving ski. That is the same as now, so your options in the future will still be good, especially for bindings directly associated with the target group- freeride/freeride touring.
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Thank you for the clarification! In a previous post, you mentioned that the soles can be replaced when worn out with a regluing. Will it eventually be possible to replace the WTR with the GripWalk sole?

I'm not sure I'll care to, but it's nice to know if options are available.
 
13965056:menace101 said:
Will it eventually be possible to replace the WTR with the GripWalk sole?
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Unfortunately it will not be possible to do that because it's not the same shell shape. You will have to replace the sole with what comes standard on the boot.
 
13965058:BrawnTrends said:
https://www.snowinn.com/magasin-ski/atomic-hawx-ultra-xtd-130/136556492/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=5476740&country=fr&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhpiH9tj03gIVCZ3VCh3rpA0WEAkYASABEgLXT_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Many thanks!! I just purchased them in my sizette 24 in Switzerland for an even better price.
 
13965291:maxwerks said:
Many thanks!! I just purchased them in my sizette 24 in Switzerland for an even better price.
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Do you mind sharing where you bought it in Switzerland for a good price? I'm in Switzerland, so hoping to take advantage..
 
What would be the best compatible alpine bindings for these boots? I find all these standards somewhat confusing.

Salomon/Atomic Warden or STH2 are WTR compatible and should work, right?

**This post was edited on Dec 17th 2018 at 3:27:09am
 
13974085:Jagt said:
What would be the best compatible alpine bindings for these boots? I find all these standards somewhat confusing.

Salomon/Atomic Warden or STH2 are WTR compatible should work, right?
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Yes - these bindings adjust in the proper way to ensure the boot fits in the binding correctly.
 
Just a quick PSA based on personal experience. I've been in the 120 as my daily driver touring boot for two seasons now. Two tours ago I noticed that there was some play in one of my boots. Couldn't tell if it was the boot or the binding, and was already comitted to a line, so I didn't have a chance to check it out. Yesterday I had the same issue, looked at them at home, and noticed that the bolts that hold the top of the walk mode lever on had loosened. So maybe check those occasionaly.

Had over 100 days in the boot before they came loose, and still love the boot, just worth checking those bolts, cause it would really, really suck to loose that walk mode lever as you're about to ski something steep...
 
I have the 130s and it's happened twice, my friend has the women's 90 and it happened as well. Seems to be a fairly common issue, had a few people complain of it at the shop I work at.
 
Hi all,

I have bought the 2018/19 hawx ultra xtd 120 and have been skiing them for the last couple of weeks in the French Alps. First impressions are good but I'm still tweaking things. I am skinny and light (around 50KG or 110lbs) and so far I'm finding the 120s quite stiff. My previous boots have generally been stiff and old school because I like the narrow fit of Raichle (F one and Flexon with a stiff tongue) and you can get them cheap second hand. I'm able to close the xtd's top 2 buckles to a tight setting and I've actually found that I can ski with the boots in walk mode to reduce the stiffness. Now I'm sure people reading this might think I'm crazy but the walk mode only really frees up when the buckles and power strap are undone.

I was toying with the idea of the 100 flex but decided to go for the 120 in the knowledge that a bootfitter can always make a stiff boot softer but not really the other way round.

I'm trying to use the boot as a quiver killer for all conditions and for the odd side-country tour to get to some nice terrain.
 
@onenerdykid Now I need to memory fit these beauties to my ugly wide feet. The instructions appear simple enough to DIY it, or would you advise against? And is the process reversible to tighten the fit at the end of the season?
 
13979181:mountain34 said:
Hi all,

I have bought the 2018/19 hawx ultra xtd 120 and have been skiing them for the last couple of weeks in the French Alps. First impressions are good but I'm still tweaking things. I am skinny and light (around 50KG or 110lbs) and so far I'm finding the 120s quite stiff. My previous boots have generally been stiff and old school because I like the narrow fit of Raichle (F one and Flexon with a stiff tongue) and you can get them cheap second hand. I'm able to close the xtd's top 2 buckles to a tight setting and I've actually found that I can ski with the boots in walk mode to reduce the stiffness. Now I'm sure people reading this might think I'm crazy but the walk mode only really frees up when the buckles and power strap are undone.

I was toying with the idea of the 100 flex but decided to go for the 120 in the knowledge that a bootfitter can always make a stiff boot softer but not really the other way round.

I'm trying to use the boot as a quiver killer for all conditions and for the odd side-country tour to get to some nice terrain.
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As you buckle the cuff tight, you end up making the boot stiffer. Instead of skiing with the boot in walk mode (which is highly not recommended), try to have your boot fitter make special pads to reduce the volume around your calves. This will reduce the volume around your leg, allow you to buckle the boot but not over-tighten it, thus keeping the flex pattern more manageable.

13979240:maxwerks said:
@onenerdykid Now I need to memory fit these beauties to my ugly wide feet. The instructions appear simple enough to DIY it, or would you advise against? And is the process reversible to tighten the fit at the end of the season?
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I would definitely suggest taking them in to a boot-fitter who is trained in doing this. Your boots are your most important part of your equipment, don't risk messing up the fit. I've seen way to many DIY Memory Fits go sideways, and it's all on you. At least if the shop fucks them up, you get new boots. But, a good shop that is trained in this, will know exactly what to do and how to do it given your foot and leg shape.
 
The memory fit process is easy enough that a 20 year old kid who makes minimum wage can do it. I'm sure you can figure it out by yourself. How are you going to heat them up though?
 
So after a year in my 130XTDs I decided to upgrade the liner to an intuition pro tour. I Think that after the heat molding of the outer shell it fit around the "top ancle area" (between the leg and the foot), loosened. When I ski now it feels like Im just standing on the soles combined with some pressure around the leg from the booster strap :/ I have tried the 120XTD before and requested to buy this liner from the store last year, but it was not available as previously mentioned, therefore I opted for an intiotion liner instead. I have done this to a previous salomon 110 XT boot boot with some success when using an intuition liner one size larger than the shell size. When ordering one size larger for the XTD (27 liner in 26 boot) it seems VERY tight in the toe area. Will this be fixed with heat molding, or is the obvious question to return the liner to a 26 instead.

Was the salomon boot just too big for its stated size, or is the XTD a bit short?

I generally have had this issue with multiple boots compined with pain on the outside of me feets. Usually I buckle the super tight when I want to ski hard, but then its torture after 1-2 minutes. Nerdy, if the liner change does not work, is the any tips&tricks you know that can reduuse the volume in the ancle area?
 
13979704:chicken said:
The memory fit process is easy enough that a 20 year old kid who makes minimum wage can do it. I'm sure you can figure it out by yourself. How are you going to heat them up though?
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I have a precision convection oven (gaggenau) that easily fits two boots. Heating should be easy.
 
13979428:onenerdykid said:
I would definitely suggest taking them in to a boot-fitter who is trained in doing this. Your boots are your most important part of your equipment, don't risk messing up the fit. I've seen way to many DIY Memory Fits go sideways, and it's all on you. At least if the shop fucks them up, you get new boots. But, a good shop that is trained in this, will know exactly what to do and how to do it given your foot and leg shape.
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In had my slalom boots memory fitted by my bootfitter and the process was very straightforward. After heating the boots with liners in the oven, he instructed me to put on the boots and wait for them to cool down. Can you be more specific on the risks of a DIY memory fit? Is it a one time process or can it be repeated until proper fit is achieved?
 
13979956:n3vrast said:
So after a year in my 130XTDs I decided to upgrade the liner to an intuition pro tour. I Think that after the heat molding of the outer shell it fit around the "top ancle area" (between the leg and the foot), loosened. When I ski now it feels like Im just standing on the soles combined with some pressure around the leg from the booster strap :/ I have tried the 120XTD before and requested to buy this liner from the store last year, but it was not available as previously mentioned, therefore I opted for an intiotion liner instead. I have done this to a previous salomon 110 XT boot boot with some success when using an intuition liner one size larger than the shell size. When ordering one size larger for the XTD (27 liner in 26 boot) it seems VERY tight in the toe area. Will this be fixed with heat molding, or is the obvious question to return the liner to a 26 instead.

Was the salomon boot just too big for its stated size, or is the XTD a bit short?

I generally have had this issue with multiple boots compined with pain on the outside of me feets. Usually I buckle the super tight when I want to ski hard, but then its torture after 1-2 minutes. Nerdy, if the liner change does not work, is the any tips&tricks you know that can reduuse the volume in the ancle area?
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One of the things I have come to learn is that not every liner fits into every boot. The last of the Intution liner is not in anyway lasted for our shell, so there are going to be some inconsistencies regarding how well the liner fits into the shell, even after heat molding. In my experience with testing Intuition liners in the Ultra XTD, you don't want to upsize the liner. Our boot runs true to size so upping the liner size will just cause fit issues, in my opinion.

If you want a tighter ankle area, your boot-fitter should be able to custom shape foam pads around your ankle to reduce volume. They will be individually made for your needs, so that should work well for you.
 
13979958:maxwerks said:
In had my slalom boots memory fitted by my bootfitter and the process was very straightforward. After heating the boots with liners in the oven, he instructed me to put on the boots and wait for them to cool down. Can you be more specific on the risks of a DIY memory fit? Is it a one time process or can it be repeated until proper fit is achieved?
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Memory Fit is a straight forward process, but there are specific tools and specific procedures to doing it right. I just think if you're not an experienced boot-fitter, then you shouldn't be fitting boots. After seeing so many people destroy their boots by trying to save some money by fitting them at home, it's just not worth the hassle. Melted boots, warped soles, too loose of a fit, etc. It's just best to have it done by someone who is experienced with it and can see your foot's needs. Maybe you don't even need Memory Fit, you just need spot stretching or grinding.
 
Matt, do you guys offer any sort of bushing replacement kit? Have you had any issues with bushing play developing? Mine just got a bit of wiggle (after an obscene number of long days over three seasons) and a quick web search resulted in nothing...
 
13979956:n3vrast said:
So after a year in my 130XTDs I decided to upgrade the liner to an intuition pro tour. I Think that after the heat molding of the outer shell it fit around the "top ancle area" (between the leg and the foot), loosened. When I ski now it feels like Im just standing on the soles combined with some pressure around the leg from the booster strap :/ I have tried the 120XTD before and requested to buy this liner from the store last year, but it was not available as previously mentioned, therefore I opted for an intiotion liner instead. I have done this to a previous salomon 110 XT boot boot with some success when using an intuition liner one size larger than the shell size. When ordering one size larger for the XTD (27 liner in 26 boot) it seems VERY tight in the toe area. Will this be fixed with heat molding, or is the obvious question to return the liner to a 26 instead.

Was the salomon boot just too big for its stated size, or is the XTD a bit short?

I generally have had this issue with multiple boots compined with pain on the outside of me feets. Usually I buckle the super tight when I want to ski hard, but then its torture after 1-2 minutes. Nerdy, if the liner change does not work, is the any tips&tricks you know that can reduuse the volume in the ancle area?
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This is exactly why I do not recommend heat molding shells to people who want tight ankles. The pressure needed to make a tight ankle is more than enough to push the shell out during molding, therefore eliminating the desired fit. I have found this on my own boots and remolded them with a strap cinching the ankle tight. It worked to a degree. The same as if you mold the boots with the buckles done tight, it will tighten the boots (more-so, it will mold them with the shell flattened, feeling tighter on top).

The atomic shell is much shorter than a salomon xmax shell, and a bit shorter than a mtn lab. It is also low volume so you may struggle putting in a larger liner.

I would go with C shaped ankle pinch pads, as Matt said.
 
13980761:cydwhit said:
Matt, do you guys offer any sort of bushing replacement kit? Have you had any issues with bushing play developing? Mine just got a bit of wiggle (after an obscene number of long days over three seasons) and a quick web search resulted in nothing...
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Yes the Frictionless Pivots are sold as spare parts. One set includes all parts & hardware for a pair of boots.

13980812:hemlockjibber8 said:
The atomic shell is much shorter than a salomon xmax shell, and a bit shorter than a mtn lab. It is also low volume so you may struggle putting in a larger liner.
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Just some clarification: the last length of the Ultra XTD is actually not shorter at all, but longer than both of those boots. Salomon's instep height is much lower than ours, and this is holds your foot further in the back giving the IMPRESSION that the last is longer. A lower instep holds the foot back in the heel pocket, but is obviously lower over the instep, which causes its own issues. We tried to find the right balance of low enough to hold the foot in the back of the shell but high enough to not be an issue for most narrow feet.
 
Really keen on the idea of these boots and have been blasting round dealers and boot fitters trying to find a pair to try on with zero success.

I have a pretty high instep (instep 29cm v foot length of 27cm on one foot and 25 on the other... weird feet)

Generally ski in 28-28.5 boots.

Will memory fitting give much instep growth? Looking at ordering a pair of 28/28.5s online but maybe the smaller size with a memory fit might work.
 
Skied my new xtd 130. Boot performs amazing. Looking for a denser liner to protect my shins on resort days. Any reccomendation? How does this boot hold up to moderate park riding? Doesn't seem like the most durable boot.
 
I used an Intuition Power Wrap with tjis boot for resort. Stiffens it up

13981774:chicken said:
Skied my new xtd 130. Boot performs amazing. Looking for a denser liner to protect my shins on resort days. Any reccomendation? How does this boot hold up to moderate park riding? Doesn't seem like the most durable boot.
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13980892:onenerdykid said:
Yes the Frictionless Pivots are sold as spare parts. One set includes all parts & hardware for a pair of boots.
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Thanks! Went in to my dealer and I've got a set in the mail.

Quick update, maybe I'll throw together a more in-depth one on Blister:

-3rd season in the 120, several hundred days on them I'd guess?

-Finally blew up the pivot bushings, probably because my bootfitter and I took drastic measures in the oven this last round

-One run yesterday the walk mode wouldn't stay in ski mode, turned out to be because of ice, only time I've ever had this issue, and it was easily fixed in the field with a ski strap.

-Otherwise zero issues over the life of the boot

-After a heat mold, check the screws that hold the walk mode flip chip, they have a tendancy to loosen.

Otherwise I absolutly love this boot on the up and down. Can't wait to see what this year's updates bring!
 
13982010:hemlockjibber8 said:
A friend of mine snapped his walk mode mechanism in half yesterday. The metal arm part. Solid skier, doesn't send stuff, probably 178lb.
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Were the screws that hold the mechanism to the cuff still tight on the boot? If a screw becomes loose, the forces acting on the mechanism can be overloaded. FYI - this goes for all ski walk mechanisms, so always check the screws to make sure they are properly tightened no matter what brand of boot you have.
 
13982731:onenerdykid said:
Were the screws that hold the mechanism to the cuff still tight on the boot? If a screw becomes loose, the forces acting on the mechanism can be overloaded. FYI - this goes for all ski walk mechanisms, so always check the screws to make sure they are properly tightened no matter what brand of boot you have.
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I had the screws for the walk mechanism back out on me this weekend as well. Lost one and replaced it at the hardware store. Not a big deal...

Almost all my Lange boots have had the screws which attach the upper back out as well. I wish boot manufacturers would spend the extra money and add some loctite.
 
13974093:onenerdykid said:
Yes - these bindings adjust in the proper way to ensure the boot fits in the binding correctly.
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Trying to adjust some STH2's for these boots now, and even at the highest toe setting I can't squeeze a business card between the boot and the AFD. Everything looks correctly mounted. What am I missing?
 
looking at picking up a set of these end of the season, and need to go try them on forsure. wondering how they would stand up to days of park skiing as a one boot for all option
 
Joining the 130 XTD ranks later this week after giving up my Fischer Ranger 130’s today for the second warranty issue.
 
13982908:link80 said:
I had the screws for the walk mechanism back out on me this weekend as well. Lost one and replaced it at the hardware store. Not a big deal...

Almost all my Lange boots have had the screws which attach the upper back out as well. I wish boot manufacturers would spend the extra money and add some loctite.
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We have threadlock on all of the screws, but it is a good idea to add more threadlock whenever you loosen a screw or put a new one in.

13982951:Jagt said:
Trying to adjust some STH2's for these boots now, and even at the highest toe setting I can't squeeze a business card between the boot and the AFD. Everything looks correctly mounted. What am I missing?
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The toe height adjustment screw will feel like it has stopped, but you can keep turning it more. You can definitely get more than the needed 0.5mm when you keep going.
 
13983251:onenerdykid said:
The toe height adjustment screw will feel like it has stopped, but you can keep turning it more. You can definitely get more than the needed 0.5mm when you keep going.
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Yeah, I brute forced the screws and it's somewhat ok now distance wise. So I take this is normal?
 
13979963:onenerdykid said:
Memory Fit is a straight forward process, but there are specific tools and specific procedures to doing it right. I just think if you're not an experienced boot-fitter, then you shouldn't be fitting boots. After seeing so many people destroy their boots by trying to save some money by fitting them at home, it's just not worth the hassle. Melted boots, warped soles, too loose of a fit, etc. It's just best to have it done by someone who is experienced with it and can see your foot's needs. Maybe you don't even need Memory Fit, you just need spot stretching or grinding.
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I can appreciate this, but I've been to a lot of boot fitters, as in upward of 10-12, over the last 10 years. I have not encountered a single one who does much for research or on-going education into boot shapes, boot materials, boot technologies, etc., beyond what an enthusiast skier does. From what I see, most boot fitters are average enthusiast skiers who happen to have access to more tools. If you have the tools, you likely have just as much capability as most "boot fitters".
 
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