Film (Analog) Photography Thread

13050662:*DUMBCAN* said:
I have five boxes of 4x5 ektachrome that are about that old... Are they still remotely usable for anything other than looking cool in the fridge?

Sell them to Lomo wannabe hipsters for several bullion.
 
13012340:TijmenDal said:
Yeah, I know they still make those, but from what I've heard they are depleted really, really quickly. Never used them myself. What's your experience? From what I've read it sounds like you can shoot 5 rolls with the battery before it dies.

Do you have the Weincell brand ones?

i have never used anything else, honestly. I think it works great. One battery lasted me my whole trip and I only use it as a travel camera, so it's worth it for me. It might get annoying if I shot film all the time.

on another note - 10 rolls from france and italy to send to the lab.
 
13051423:cydwhit said:
I have a hard time capturing the action at the right time with film, this is the best I've done yet:

View attachment 718054

You need one of these:

CanonF1NHighspeed_G.jpeg


14fps, on film. It burns through a $10 roll in 2.5 seconds.
 
i took a roll of tri x and had it pushed 3 stops for fun and #art.

KQRRkSI.jpg


jXMa76o.jpg


wRRuwC6.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/WD2vagT.jpg[img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/dADgGvj.jpg

1Bb25dT.jpg
 
That's some mad pussy art.

And I just found out that in my exuberance of the Dutch winning another world cup match I happened to have bought a Nikon F5 with the fancy digital back, damn you eBay app making payments as easy as three clicks allowing intoxicated me to spend money on things I don't need.

No regrets though, can't wait to obnoxiously mirror slap a roll of film away in three seconds.
 
13052262:Balto said:
didnt you already have an f5?

I bought one several eons ago but that had a lame shutter.

I don't really need one, but the old F has such an unreliable slow meter during concerts and the F70 just doesn't feel as nice of a camera compared to it's bigger brothers, also the F70's menu is annoying.

I will probably get a 80-200 f2.8 ED and a beige photovest next for the full 1999 photojournalist look.
 
Digitalized film camera still beats digital camera.

I just want to pretend to be a 1999 journalist using the pinnacle of electronic engineering combined with film.

let me be ;__;
 
13052706:ThurnisHaley said:
This thread has gotten me to start looking at getting into film before i go with a dslr.

even if you do get a dslr first, get a film camera as well. if you do it right you don't even need to buy different lenses so it'll be like paying the tax on a dslr lol
 
13052791:erikK said:
even if you do get a dslr first, get a film camera as well. if you do it right you don't even need to buy different lenses so it'll be like paying the tax on a dslr lol

Oh yeah I plan on buying one anyways. Probably gonna head to the local thrift shop(s) today to see if they have any cheap ones so I can get the feel. I wont be getting a dslr for a few months anyways since I dont have enough money.

Just thought this could be the first step to make me actually be serious about getting into photography instead of just talking about it.
 
13052706:ThurnisHaley said:
This thread has gotten me to start looking at getting into film before i go with a dslr.

Good idea. There's a reason a lot of photography programs still start with using film for the first semester or two. It forces you to understand the technical side of photography much more.
 
13052157:omnidata said:
I just found out that in my exuberance of the Dutch winning another world cup match I happened to have bought a Nikon F5 with the fancy digital back, damn you eBay app

I wish I was Dutch so I could celebrate that hard when they win world cup matches :'( I
 
Sorry, just bought a 14m tall statue of Henri Cartier-Bresson made entirely of old film canisters.

On an thread related note, I just remembered why I don't shoot colour, scanning it properly is a bitch.

Especially since colorperfect is being twattish and not working properly.
 
Thinking about starting to shoot film a bit in addition to digital... Would a k1000 be a good way to start? I need new lenses so being able to use lenses on both platforms would be best. I was looking at the takumar s-m-c 28mm 2.8 and the takumar s-m-c 50 1.4 (both can be adapted to work on canon eos). Yay or nay?
 
13052791:erikK said:
even if you do get a dslr first, get a film camera as well. if you do it right you don't even need to buy different lenses so it'll be like paying the tax on a dslr lol

Also.. any suggestions for what camera? I dont want to spend a ton of money. Like under 50$ because im out of work for a few weeks now.
 
13053132:omnidata said:
I actually had a complete post written up that magically disappeared upon posting.

yes, which went away due to that symbol. lol.
 
Just found an Enlarger for 10$ at the Salvation Army, and what the hell, it's been used maybe 4 times. Beseler Cadet - which is nice, since it's pretty damn compact for an Enlarger. The darkroom in my new place is not big enough to put anything that big in it, and my old Enlarger was a piece of shit anyway. Yay Prints!
 
13053311:ThurnisHaley said:
Also.. any suggestions for what camera? I dont want to spend a ton of money. Like under 50$ because im out of work for a few weeks now.

I has suggestions. There's tons of cameras available for less than $50, it's just a case of choosing what type you want.

The simplest thing to do is just walk into a thrift shop and buy the first camera that looks cool and is cheap enough. I've got some decent stuff through that, I got an awesome Vivitar tele lens for about $10. There are other ways though if you have an idea of what you want.

Like you could get an slr that'll use the same lenses as your future dslr. For Canon, get an EOS Elan 7/EOS 30. That was the second from top model in the early 2000's (the top model, the 1V, is still pretty expensive), you can get it for $10 now. It has cool things that never worked like eye controlled focus. For Nikon, god fucking knows what because I never understood their numbering. Someone help me out, Lawrence, Sean. One thing about these though - both Nikon and Canon make lenses specifically for the crop sensor (cheaper) dslrs. These lenses, which include the kit lens, won't work on the film cameras. However if you're on canon you can get the 50/1.8 for $50 and it's absolutely superb, on nikon maybe the 50/1.8D(?) is quite cheap too and will work on film systems.

Nikon has cheaper lenses because back in the late 80s canon invented EOS and any lenses pre-eos don't work with the new bodies, but all the old nikon lenses work with nikon bodies.

Rangefinders are cool too, they're more quite and compact, but they still take awesome photos. They're almost always manual focus, but the rangefinder makes focusing easy. Street photographers love them. A Yashica electro 35 will come in a little under $50, but it's a beautiful camera. It has a fixed 50mm f1.7 lens that is super sharp. A problem is that it works only in aperture priority - not a huge problem because lots of people will exclusively use this mode, but it means it does require batteries for the light meter. Common alkaline batteries don't offer a consistent enough voltage for cameras, so they can be a pain to find. Annoyingly these are absurdly expensive in the UK, upwards of £100 for a working one, I blame the lomofags. But who else would've bought my sheet film (yeah I actually sold it, got £35 for it hahaha).

If you don't have a thrift shop near you and you just want a camera get a canon ae-1. They're tons of them available on ebay, prices and condition vary but there's no correlation between them.

Return to the first page of this thread for Lawrence's and Sean's opinions. To be honest though, anything that works will do the job. Spend $10 in a thrift shop or $2000 on a leica, you can still take almost as good photos on the cheap camera.
 
13053311:ThurnisHaley said:
Also.. any suggestions for what camera? I dont want to spend a ton of money. Like under 50$ because im out of work for a few weeks now.

Follow first page guide, it's omniscient.

13053352:Walter.1337 said:
yes, which went away due to that symbol. lol.

It's peculiar and annoying, but that at least gives me something to bitch about.

13053375:DingoSean said:
Just found an Enlarger for 10$ at the Salvation Army, and what the hell, it's been used maybe 4 times. Beseler Cadet - which is nice, since it's pretty damn compact for an Enlarger. The darkroom in my new place is not big enough to put anything that big in it, and my old Enlarger was a piece of shit anyway. Yay Prints!

>Nothing getting a fourty ton Durst behemoth roughly the size of Nottinghamshire.

13053685:*DUMBCAN* said:
For Nikon, god fucking knows what because I never understood their numbering. Someone help me out, Lawrence, Sean. One thing about these though - both Nikon and Canon make lenses specifically for the crop sensor (cheaper) dslrs. These lenses, which include the kit lens, won't work on the film cameras. However if you're on canon you can get the 50/1.8 for $50 and it's absolutely superb, on nikon maybe the 50/1.8D(?) is quite cheap too and will work on film systems.

Nikon has cheaper lenses because back in the late 80s canon invented EOS and any lenses pre-eos don't work with the new bodies, but all the old nikon lenses work with nikon bodies.

Nikon numbering is retarded, by so is that of most brand.

I'll make a sexy pointless chart one day but really for Nikon the basics are quite easy:

F1, F2, F3 = MF sex

F4, F5, F6 = AF pro slr sex.

F80 & F100 = semi chub, semi pro AF sler

The rest will work, but you will long for any of the above.

Ai and older lenses = MF

AF (D) lenses = AF screw-drive (not present on budget dslrs will be mf only then.)

AF (G) lenses = AF in lens (af does work on most screw-drive film body's)
 
Alright thanks. Ill check into all of those and see which one I like the best but to be honest it sounds like any working ome im decent condition is going to do great.

Unrelated..

I saw a thread that someone made in here where they found some old glass but it was scratched to hell. But it still produced some quality photos/video. I honestly dont remember.
 
I know just enough about film to become severely frustrated by my confusion as I read through this thread.

That being said, I think I'm going to finally bite the bullet now that I have an income again and buy myself a film camera. My dad has a Canon EOS 650 that I put a few rolls through before I bought a T3i but I'd rather have my own camera.

I'm going to pay a visit to a local thrift shop or two today after work.

Any tips on things to look for as far as quality and condition go? I don't want to end up with a camera that's only good to take photos of and not with.
 
13053877:CheddarJack said:
Any tips on things to look for as far as quality and condition go? I don't want to end up with a camera that's only good to take photos of and not with.

The basics:

If it looks good, has a UV-filter, strap, eveready case, the JC11 gold pass sticker, protective film on the bottom then it's a camera someone cared for, if it has plastic strap lug protectors someone was extremely careful. Also advanced bodies have a likelier chance of being in proper good nick then pro-bodies and pure am bodies that were casually thrown around by pro's and teens.

Dust and goob should be ignored, camera's are sometimes left in the attic for dozens of years and accumulate all kinds of grossness that can be wiped off.

Rubber and foam deteriorate over time, chances are it will have leaky seals, some cameras hardly need seals some do, if you need them get new foam or just tape up the edges of the film door with gaffer tape.

Do not be impressed by the size of third party 60-80's zooms.

If it's a fully manual camera, cycle through all the shutter speeds with the door open so you can see that bugger move, just make sure everything works.

If it has electronic exposure, chances are the shutter will be locked if the battery is dead. (Some cameras will function normally, others will work at 1 or 2 speeds (mostly 1/60)) If you are anal bring batteries, 90% of the time: LR44 and PX625 alkaline replacements.(Most cameras take from 1-3 batteries) If it doesn't work with battery the caps are dead, not worth your time, resoldering a new cap is possible but takes too much effort. Also the film lever might have been ruined by noobs exerting an extreme amount of force to 'get it working'.

Go through all the shutter speeds and make sure the exposure meter is working.

If it is all auto, take batteries with you or go for a massive discount or just take the gamble.

AA, AAA, 2CR5, CR123, CR2 are the most common one's. (Most camera's with (exception of 2CR5) take 2-4 batteries)

Go through all shutter speeds and continuous.

Screw loose laying filters on the lenses you are buying, pretend they came with it. (Only common brands worth doing this for: B&W, Heliopan, Leica, Rodenstock)
 
Thriftshop finds today.

Kodak 1A that probably doesn't work, and won't open up, but for 10$, why not.

Another Canon AE1, but it came with an 85 f1.8 FD on it, so I'll call that a fuckin steal for 40$.

and one of these, which I got for 49 whole cents (as in 50% off of 99 cents), but I have NO idea about it other than it looks pretty damn solid with the fixed 35.

nikon%2Bone%2Btouch.JPG
 
13053311:ThurnisHaley said:
Also.. any suggestions for what camera? I dont want to spend a ton of money. Like under 50$ because im out of work for a few weeks now.

I'd hunt around and go for any of these...

Olympus OM 1, 10 or 20

Nikon FM2/FM2N

Canon AE1

Canonet QL17

Maybe an olympus trip for shits and gigs

Sticking with Canon/Nikon might be a good move since if you do go SLR you can always fits those lenses on if they're the right era
 
13058251:DingoSean said:
Thriftshop finds today.

Kodak 1A that probably doesn't work, and won't open up, but for 10$, why not.

Another Canon AE1, but it came with an 85 f1.8 FD on it, so I'll call that a fuckin steal for 40$.

and one of these, which I got for 49 whole cents (as in 50% off of 99 cents), but I have NO idea about it other than it looks pretty damn solid with the fixed 35.

nikon%2Bone%2Btouch.JPG

That 3rd one is actually pretty cool. Do you know if it works yet?

13058474:CoolSkierDude420 said:
I'd hunt around and go for any of these...

Olympus OM 1, 10 or 20

Nikon FM2/FM2N

Canon AE1

Canonet QL17

Maybe an olympus trip for shits and gigs

Sticking with Canon/Nikon might be a good move since if you do go SLR you can always fits those lenses on if they're the right era

Yep thanks. So far ive just been looking around at everything but If I bought one for 10$ and didnt like it I guess I really wouldnt care.
 
Just scored a tokina 28 f/2.8 m42 mount on ebay for $20. I couldn't really find any info about it online but I like tokinas so I figured I may as well.

Also fucking work. I was about to win a super multi coated takumar 50 f1.4. I was winning with two minutes left and then it went for 10 over my max bid while I was working. Damn... I found another one but does roughly 100 shipped for a pretty much mint s-m-c 50 1.4 seem like a decent deal? According to the listing, it always had a filter on it, there is no fungus/oil/haze/dust/etc. I figured its as much as the canon 50 1.8 and is a better lens overall
 
Just scored a Sigma 35-70 f2.8 FD from my brother-in-law, FOR FREE! I've borrowed it before and it's super fun to use on my AE-1. Super stoked that he gave it to me.
 
13058474:CoolSkierDude420 said:
I'd hunt around and go for any of these...

Olympus OM 1, 10 or 20

Nikon FM2/FM2N

Canon AE1

Canonet QL17

Maybe an olympus trip for shits and gigs

Sticking with Canon/Nikon might be a good move since if you do go SLR you can always fits those lenses on if they're the right era

where can you get a nikon fm2 for under 50?
 
13060336:nutz. said:
where can you get a nikon fm2 for under 50?

i've never seen an fm2 that cheap. i have seen some fm's for around 50 though. you can get an fg for well under 50 and they're very similar to an fm, might be worth looking into. (i went through the same thing on the first couple pages of this thread)
 
13058474:CoolSkierDude420 said:
I'd hunt around and go for any of these...

Olympus OM 1, 10 or 20

Nikon FM2/FM2N

Canon AE1

Canonet QL17

Maybe an olympus trip for shits and gigs

Sticking with Canon/Nikon might be a good move since if you do go SLR you can always fits those lenses on if they're the right era

OM1s are usually like $70 to $90 and the 10 and 20 aren't really worth looking out for (unless they are like $10 at a thrift shop). But if you find an OM10, there is a good chance that there is a 50mm f1.8 on it which is a great lens.

AE1s can also run for a little more if you're seeking out one.

One of the most underrated cameras out there is the Pentax ME/ME Super. Pentax glass is great (see tijmendal's thread). The ME body is all metal, super small, and has a HUGE viewfinder.

While I am not very familiar with them, Minoltas are pretty underrated. I have heard good things about the glass and the bodies are cheapish too. My camera shop sells Minolta primes in a disorganized bin for $7 alongside crummy old tele zooms.
 
13060500:JakeSmith said:
OM1s are usually like $70 to $90 and the 10 and 20 aren't really worth looking out for (unless they are like $10 at a thrift shop). But if you find an OM10, there is a good chance that there is a 50mm f1.8 on it which is a great lens.

AE1s can also run for a little more if you're seeking out one.

One of the most underrated cameras out there is the Pentax ME/ME Super. Pentax glass is great (see tijmendal's thread). The ME body is all metal, super small, and has a HUGE viewfinder.

While I am not very familiar with them, Minoltas are pretty underrated. I have heard good things about the glass and the bodies are cheapish too. My camera shop sells Minolta primes in a disorganized bin for $7 alongside crummy old tele zooms.

I would just add that in my opinion OM1s are definitely worth it. The OM system is awesome, the 50mm especially. I have two bodies, two 50s, a 35 2.8 and a 135 2.8 and that's what I take as my travel camera.

However I'm biased. haha.
 
13060374:TijmenDal said:
I thought you didn't like the Jobo? Also: how does it foit more 120 than 35?

no? i said i dont use it much, that doesnt mean I dont like it. Jobo reels are 35-220 so you put 2 120s on a single reel
 
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