Film (Analog) Photography Thread

12980513:chaitea said:
pardon my facebook .jpgs, i can't figure out how to get a url to embed off of flickr.

These are my four favorite photos that i have shot on film so far, the first three being on potra 400 in my pentax spotmatic spII, 50 f/1.4 and the final with a 400 speed disposable.

10012905_10152787097808572_2322140612751493417_o.jpg


10006087_10152787098378572_6030904139509801215_o.jpg


1266064_10152787097158572_173550333779379836_o.jpg


1548087_10152826876378572_3816321640450655349_o.jpg


tear 'em to shreds if it so pleases you

lame move, but I hate having the last post on a page....
 
12980898:ForeverYung said:
Wasn't looking for a fish eye, whats a good 50mm?

I have very little idea what I'm doing

Any Canon FD 50mm will do an excellent job.

Want to spend more and nurse a semi every time you fondle with your camera?

Get the Canon 50mm f/1.2 L FD Aspherical

D3S_6100-1200.jpg
 
12980912:omnidata said:
Any Canon FD 50mm will do an excellent job.

Want to spend more and nurse a semi every time you fondle with your camera?

Get the Canon 50mm f/1.2 L FD Aspherical

D3S_6100-1200.jpg

What aperture would you recommend I get?
 
12980933:ForeverYung said:
What aperture would you recommend I get?

not really sure what you're asking, but that lens has a range of f/1.2 max to f/16 minimum. you can use a range of stops in the middle. that's what that lens is.
 
12981007:chaitea said:
not really sure what you're asking, but that lens has a range of f/1.2 max to f/16 minimum. you can use a range of stops in the middle. that's what that lens is.

Yes I worded that weirdly, I'm a noob. That lens is a bit out of my price range haha, but what would you recommend for a f stop range?
 
12981171:ForeverYung said:
Yes I worded that weirdly, I'm a noob. That lens is a bit out of my price range haha, but what would you recommend for a f stop range?

A 50mm f1.8 would be fine, f1.4 slightly better, SC or SSC refers to the lens coatings. I have the 50mm 1.4 SSC on my F-1 and I quite like it for an SLR lens. If I were you I would also pick up a 28mm f2.8 for the extra few bones, its nice to have something wider. Note about KEH, always buy bargain they are extremely conservative.
http://www.keh.com/Camera/format-35...th-Lenses?s=1&bcode=CA&ccode=6&cc=3115&r=WG&f
 
12983484:Lachie said:
Anyone know anything about the Pentax IQZoom 900? Just found one in my parents storage

A typical 90s point and shoot,

plastic fantastic and auto magic,

the lens is not that wide and the aperture tragic,

the 90mm tele is moot,

because Nachtway says
 
12983484:Lachie said:
Anyone know anything about the Pentax IQZoom 900? Just found one in my parents storage

A typical 90s point and shoot,

plastic fantastic and auto magic,

the lens is not that wide and the aperture tragic,

the 90mm tele is moot,

because Nachtway says 50 and under or scoot,

street is it's forte since it's as quiet,

as a four bedroom suite in the Hyatt,

despite all what's lacking,

get some film and start cracking.
 
12980898:ForeverYung said:
I have very little idea what I'm doing

Here's what I take when I'm shooting my own AE-1.

50mm f1.8 SC (20-25$)

28mm f2.8 FD (25-30$)

100mm f2.8 SSC (50-80$)

You're also going to want a 6v battery to fit in the compartment on the front to the left of the lens. If you haven't already, i'd buy one for 4$ or whatever to test and make sure the camera even works right. You want to make sure the meter is metering before you start spending any money on lenses and film.
 
12984024:steezysteeze said:
It's Nachtwey, you game lackin' son.

That was on my phone whilst standing in the subway and being distracted by a perky 15-year old's bottom enveloped in a thight leather legging.

Hence also the double post.

Gimme some slack.
 
Hey, anyone know where I can get Velvia developed? No one local can do it and I kind of want to get this roll processed. I have heard rumors about some Walmarts being able to do it, can anyone confirm?

Thanks!
 
12984175:cydwhit said:
Hey, anyone know where I can get Velvia developed? No one local can do it and I kind of want to get this roll processed. I have heard rumors about some Walmarts being able to do it, can anyone confirm?

Thanks!

DO NOT TAKE YOUR VELVIA TO WALLY WORLD, they will cross process it and it will look like shit.
 
12984233:zbphoto said:
DO NOT TAKE YOUR VELVIA TO WALLY WORLD, they will cross process it and it will look like shit.

Haha, somebody online said if you wrote specific instructions on it it would work. I ordered a mailer from B&H anyway. Thanks though!
 
12984233:zbphoto said:
DO NOT TAKE YOUR VELVIA TO WALLY WORLD, they will cross process it and it will look like shit.

Haha, somebody online said if you wrote specific instructions on it it would work. I ordered a mailer from B&H anyway. Thanks though!
 
12984276:cydwhit said:
Haha, somebody online said if you wrote specific instructions on it it would work. I ordered a mailer from B&H anyway. Thanks though!

OH, I know what your talking about! Some Walmarts will send your film out to (I believe) Fuji but it can take weeks.
 
Purchased the 50mm f/1.8 in LTM/M39 mount yesterday. Really good condition and came with the original Wetzlar IRZOO adapter as well as the S-42 hood. Those two accesories alone almost pay for the lens itself. Only paid 120€...

It's a really great little lens. Really can't afford a Leica lens and I like the look Canon lenses gives. The other lens I have for my M2 is the Canon 35mm f/2.8 (non-Serenar), which is tiny and gives great (or good enough for me) results.

That's a tiny, cheap two-lens set with the only two focal lengths I'll ever use.
 
Scanner help:

I've pretty much narrowed down my search to either an Epson V500 or a V600. I can get the 500 refurbished from Epson for $99, the 600 refurbished for $150. I haven't found anything conclusive on whether or not the extra money for the 600 is worth it or not so I am turning to you guys. Right now I only shoot 35mm, kind of doubt I'll be doing any MF stuff in the near future. Mostly just gonna be used for web use, and some small prints probably. I'd really like to be able to save the $50 because funds are minimal and I still mainly shoot digital, but if the V600 is much better suited to my needs I'm fine with it.

Thanks
 
I second the Pakon. It's so good.

One of the biggest reasons I don't shoot 120 a whole lot (if ever...) is because I hate using my v600 to scan the negs...
 
12986852:*DUMBCAN* said:
What resolution do you get out the pakon?

2k x 3k but it can be upscaled, you also have to deal with the fact it only runs in xp and that there are 0 replacment parts or service available outside the US
 
12983998:DingoSean said:
Here's what I take when I'm shooting my own AE-1.

50mm f1.8 SC (20-25$)

28mm f2.8 FD (25-30$)

100mm f2.8 SSC (50-80$)

You're also going to want a 6v battery to fit in the compartment on the front to the left of the lens. If you haven't already, i'd buy one for 4$ or whatever to test and make sure the camera even works right. You want to make sure the meter is metering before you start spending any money on lenses and film.

I got a new battery for it, how do you check to see if it will actually work? I got the red light to turn on next to the shutter button
 
12983998:DingoSean said:
Here's what I take when I'm shooting my own AE-1.

50mm f1.8 SC (20-25$)

28mm f2.8 FD (25-30$)

100mm f2.8 SSC (50-80$)

You're also going to want a 6v battery to fit in the compartment on the front to the left of the lens. If you haven't already, i'd buy one for 4$ or whatever to test and make sure the camera even works right. You want to make sure the meter is metering before you start spending any money on lenses and film.

I got a new battery for it, how do you check to see if it will actually work? I got the red light to turn on next to the shutter button
 
12986874:Balto said:
2k x 3k but it can be upscaled, you also have to deal with the fact it only runs in xp and that there are 0 replacment parts or service available outside the US

How much of a problem would the lack of replacement parts be? Xp and the resolution I can live with, I have spare computers and I only need a scanner to put photos on here.

It's the speed and convienience that attracts me to one over a plustek, they'd cost about the same after importing.
 
12986974:*DUMBCAN* said:
How much of a problem would the lack of replacement parts be? Xp and the resolution I can live with, I have spare computers and I only need a scanner to put photos on here.

It's the speed and convienience that attracts me to one over a plustek, they'd cost about the same after importing.

Some people got bad units that needed replacing. These things did come out of commercial use in drug stores so who really knows what each particular scanner went through, probably lots of use with minimal upkeep. AAA imaging is sold out(has been for a while, thats who tij and I got them through) so the only place to get one is from a guy who sells them and mini labs in Florida, so you are going to be looking at like 450+ to get one over seas.
 
PRO TIP:

If you're an occasional smoker like me and don't own a grinder, try the following: take an empty film canister put a nickel or two in it, throw in your bud and shake that motherfucker. You get a really nice fine grind in half a minute of shaking.

I save all my film canisters for some reason (I hope they'll prove useful some day...) and I've probably amassed somewhere between 4 and 5 hundred. Now at least ONE has found a new purpose...
 
12987594:chaitea said:
Can someone explain the allure of Leicas to me? I get the viewfiender/rangefinder thing, but other than that, what's the big deal?

They are really fucking cool.

And beautifully made.

They are like a Rolex watch when when everything else is a Nixon.
 
12987613:DIPED_IN_SAUCE said:
They are really fucking cool.

And beautifully made.

They are like a Rolex watch when when everything else is a Nixon.

so i'm going to phrase this in a way that might stir the pot a bit, but essentially it's a conceptual/fashiony thing more than functionality?
 
12987665:chaitea said:
so i'm going to phrase this in a way that might stir the pot a bit, but essentially it's a conceptual/fashiony thing more than functionality?

Reliability, durability, artsability
 
12987665:chaitea said:
so i'm going to phrase this in a way that might stir the pot a bit, but essentially it's a conceptual/fashiony thing more than functionality?

Fine swiss mechanical watch VS japanese calculator watch. No 35mm camera is made anywhere close to as nice as a brass M. They are the smoothest operating cameras ever made, with 0 bull shit extras that get in the way. It is also more demanding of the photographer because you dont get to see things a ttl view lets you like actual focus or dof, so it requires pre visualization and practice to get the shot you want. They are small and discreet, the lenses are fantastic (REAL leica lenses not $400 voigtlanders), and there is a huge selection of glass you can mount or adapt.
 
12987665:chaitea said:
so i'm going to phrase this in a way that might stir the pot a bit, but essentially it's a conceptual/fashiony thing more than functionality?

Yeah NO! The lenses available for Leica are some of the best ever made, you can choose from basically any M or LTM lens made over the the last century. For documentary work a rangefinder of any kind is significantly less intrusive than an SLR or DSLR. Also, because there is no mirror they are for the most part nearly silent.

Really though, the reason I shoot with a Leica is that over time digital cameras and lenses change considerably, it is very unlikely one will have the same camera and lens in 5 years time. With a Leica though, it is actually very likely one will still have the same lens, body, and film stock (Tri-x) in 5 years or possibly 10-20 years time. Consistency is key when working on a long term project IMHO.

Regardless, Leica haters are usually just people who either can't afford them or have a boner for AF and high frame rates.

12987684:erikK said:
Reliability, durability, artsability

Reliable yes, but zinc (M6 for example) are actually semi fragile and can be dented or damaged easily is bumped or dropped. The brass bodies (m2, m3, MP) are where durability is really a factor. Most of the really old Ms still in use today are brass. That is also what people took to war as well for the most part. As well, unlike a lot of old mass produced SLR's that just run forever without issues, Leicas will require proper maintenance by a knowledgeable technician on a decent basis. A CLA every 5-10 years if not more is a good idea, its not a bad thing to have a few hundred dollars available at all times for possible maintenance or repair.
 
the cla culture is a bit silly, unless you are taking your gear to war or around the world for 10 years there isn't that much of a need. If a body has the L seal intact and is working smoothly with all times accurate, even if it has never seen service since 1954 there is no point for a cla. If the body is questionable(lots of wear, slow times, really cheap price) then it doesnt hurt to get one but it should be good for another 50+ years at that point if the person did a good job and you dont treat it like shit or like a press photographer who is getting shot at.
 
The only reason a Leica would need a CLA is because Leica used animal-fat based lube up till a decade or two ago. That lube is ok, but it does mean that if you don't use the camera every couple of months the fat will dry. Silicon based lube, what is used in pretty much every Japanese camera, doesn't have that same problem.
 
I'm seriously considering moving away from 120 format. It's just not for me. I hate lugging those big camera's around and I hate scanning on my flatbed even more.

If I sell all my 120 film (which is a fuckton, somewhere in the 100-120 rolls range, 75% of it being chromes) and my gear I could probably rake in like 750€ or so.

I shoot maybe 10-15 rolls a year at this rate, which just isn't worth it. I'd love to keep the setup, but it's hard to justify. I love medium format slide and the only reason I'd keep my film is if I'd go shoot a project on slide film. Or if I start doing portrait work.
 
12987665:chaitea said:
so i'm going to phrase this in a way that might stir the pot a bit, but essentially it's a conceptual/fashiony thing more than functionality?

Leicas are Veblen goods. But unlike most veblen goods, Leicas are actually practical workhorses. The brass M bodies are the ak-47 of the camera world: simple and reliable.

So to answer your question, they are actually amazing tools, and the obnoxious zeitgeist surrounding the brand name is more or less justified.
 
12991485:TijmenDal said:
I'm seriously considering moving away from 120 format. It's just not for me. I hate lugging those big camera's around and I hate scanning on my flatbed even more.

If I sell all my 120 film (which is a fuckton, somewhere in the 100-120 rolls range, 75% of it being chromes) and my gear I could probably rake in like 750€ or so.

I shoot maybe 10-15 rolls a year at this rate, which just isn't worth it. I'd love to keep the setup, but it's hard to justify. I love medium format slide and the only reason I'd keep my film is if I'd go shoot a project on slide film. Or if I start doing portrait work.

I really only play with my hass if I'm shooting portraits now. I really like the look of the 6x6 for landscape work, but I'd never take it out and haul it very far to do it.

That said, almost all the film I have left is black and white 120 film that I got for very cheap (probably like 60 rolls or so). I'll probably come up with some reason in the coming months to start blasting away with it. No reason to sell at this point anyway, as I'm shooting with a family heirloom not a camera that I just decided to buy on ebay..
 
As for the allure of Leica.. I understand it, absolutely, but there are so many other awesome tools out there that can shoot the same glass for cheaper. Sure, they might not be as durable or something, but as long as the glass is in good shape, you're going to get good results.

Minolta CLE or Voightlander Bessa R-series, for example - Great cameras, shoot the same glass, and if you aren't getting shot at or chucking around, will last a very long time as well.

Shit, you could even get a Zeiss Ikon over a Leica - Those things are fantastic.
 
Sean you have really bad views on what makes a camera good if you are calling a bessa great. If you can afford to shoot Leica you can afford a Leica body. If all you can afford to shoot is cosina glass then you won't be shooting Leica anyway because it's the optics that matter. The Voigtlander stuff is by in large made poorly, so is all the zeiss stuff that is made on the same line. Focus issues, build issues, it's all very cheap in price and performance and feel. The way something feels matters to many people. You might not care how a camera feels in your hand, but a pile of plastic and poor ergonomics or performance makes for a lesser shooting experience and is not worth spending your money on when you can buy a fine piece of engineering for the same price or less. People break cosina built cameras quite often, chances are you won't break an m2. I can walk down to the local camera shop and walk out with a user M for under $500, why would anyone pick a cheap plastic body over that. I don't want to have to worry about my camera failing on me, and I worry when it's made from thinner plastic then Legos. 90's Toyota pickup or bmw depending on model vs an early 2000's Kia, seems simple to me.
 
I'm merely just pointing out that there are other options besides Leica for shooting a rangefinder.

Shit, you could go with a Canon 7 with a few jupiter lenses get awesome results and be extremely happy with how it feels and works for a lot less than going all out for an M4-2 or whatever else suits your fancy.

Is a Canon 7 a Leica? No.. Is a Bessa R or an Ikon a Leica? No (although, the Ikon has a pretty fucking nice viewfinder, I have to say) is a Minolta CLE a Leica? Kinda yes? but still No... These are just other killer tools out there for shooting the plethora of M and L39 glass out there.

All of which I'd take over an M5, by the way.
 
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