Film (Analog) Photography Thread

12945508:DIPED_IN_SAUCE said:
I got into B&W last year, and got myself a minolta srt-102 with a 50mm prime and a vivitar 70-210. I want to start doing color, whats a good cheap film for this setup, and where do I buy it?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I just picked up some kodack gold 200 for 9 bucks... Good pick?
 
12949266:shredding_panda said:
How do you guys feel about this camera not sure if I should buy it because the price is so low

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Canon-Canonet-QL17-19-Rangefinder-Camera-with-Flash-Case-Orig-Instructions-/291118062363?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c7fd1b1b&_uhb=1
Click to expand...

Go for it. I have the same camera and its awesome. I paid $100 for mine though. If you buy that and it ends up working you got a killer deal.

12949310:DIPED_IN_SAUCE said:
I just picked up some kodack gold 200 for 9 bucks... Good pick?
Click to expand...

One roll for $9? Thats a rip off.
 
Just bought an XA. My fourth one (two XA's, two XA2's). Hopefully this one ends up living longer than my other ones. It's in immaculate condition. The woman I bought it from used it for a vacation or two and then chucked it in the drawer for 25 years. Still has the original box as well as the A11 flash (I already had two A16's).

I'm a happy camper.

This is such a great little camera. I could should the rest of my life with it.
 
12950393:Lachie said:
And film?
Click to expand...

tumblr_inline_mnmqafdRzV1qz4rgp.gif


Tri-X.jpg
 
12950402:Lachie said:
I'm terribly sorry
Click to expand...

12950404:Lachie said:
Terribly, terribly sorry
Click to expand...

Thou art forgiven if only because you at first were to young to film photography to understand the greatness, the perfection, the grain and the ridiculous forgiveness.

Now be cleansed and accept Tri-X as many did before you, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Garry Winogrand, Alfred Eisenstaedt, Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, Josef Koudelka, Don McCullin, Anton Corbijn, Sebastião Salgado, etc..

http://moreintelligentlife.com/content/features/bryan-appleyard/tri-x-factor?page=full
 
12950412:omnidata said:
Thou art forgiven if only because you at first were to young to film photography to understand the greatness, the perfection, the grain and the ridiculous forgiveness.

Now be cleansed and accept Tri-X as many did before you, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Garry Winogrand, Alfred Eisenstaedt, Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, Josef Koudelka, Don McCullin, Anton Corbijn, Sebastião Salgado, etc..

http://moreintelligentlife.com/content/features/bryan-appleyard/tri-x-factor?page=full
Click to expand...

Thank you Sensei
 
12950482:Balto said:
grabbed an enlarger from a friend last night, now to teach my self to print
Click to expand...

Here's a tip assuming you're using RC paper:

Instead of just choosing a contrast filter that you think looks right, print with two exposures. One with a 0 filter to control highlights and one with a 5 filter to control blacks. That way you can adjust exposure time with each filter separately and you have way more control over tonality than if you just use one filter.

Not sure if this is something that a lot of people do, but that's how I was taught to print and it is definitely better than the regular method.
 
As someone with not a whole lot of experiencing wet printing, could you elaborate? I don't understand at all what the purpose is. What will your end product be?
 
You're just using multiple exposures with different filters to control highlights and shadows separately, instead of just choosing a contrast filter. The low contrast filter (0) controls highlights, and the high contrast filter (5) controls blacks. You do two test strips, one with each filter. Look at highlights in each section of the test strip with the 0 filter and the blacks in the test strip with the 5 filter. Where ever you start to see detail in the highlights and shadows respectively, is the time you use with that filter.

Lets say in your 0 filter test strip, highlight detail starts showing up at 6 seconds, and in the 5 filter test strip, shadow detail starts showing up at 9 seconds. You would expose your print for 6 seconds with a 0 filter, then switch to a 5 filter and expose for another 9 seconds. Then you look at the print and make fine adjustments from there.

I guess its sort of like the difference between using the contrast slider in Lightroom or a Levels adjustment layer in Photoshop. It just gives you more precise control over tonality.

Also, shot a dozen rolls with my new M6 yesterday. I'm in love with it. Couple quick flatbed scans:

2efuand.jpg


2rypkd1.jpg
 
Thanks for the explanation Paul. Clear as crystal. I've never learned to use two filters for the same exposure, although I do know it's common I didn't really link one and one.

And you got an M6? Now I'm confused... I thought you were set on getting a medium format cat?
 
12950761:TijmenDal said:
Thanks for the explanation Paul. Clear as crystal. I've never learned to use two filters for the same exposure, although I do know it's common I didn't really link one and one.

And you got an M6? Now I'm confused... I thought you were set on getting a medium format cat?
Click to expand...

He got a mamiya 6, I was confused too until I saw an older post. Paul, I'd suggest saying the full name to avoid the confusion with the popular leica cam
 
12950770:Walter.1337 said:
He got a mamiya 6, I was confused too until I saw an older post. Paul, I'd suggest saying the full name to avoid the confusion with the popular leica cam
Click to expand...

It surprises me that Leica hasn't copyrighted the letter 'M' and that we don't have to pay Leicatax for every time we use it.

Probably because then Leica would be too common, to non-obscure.
 
Ok. Now I see. My chain of thought was this: 'M6, huh? I thought he was getting a medium format cam'. Then I looked at the first photo and noticed it was indeed 3:2. Didn't really see the second photo was square.

The Mamiya 6 is such a great camera. I'm pretty sure it'd be my 'ultimate' camera if only it wouldn't have been made out of plastic. I'd break it within a year I'm sure. Too bad, because the collapsable lens-system makes it so great.
 
12950515:plorr said:
Here's a tip assuming you're using RC paper:

Instead of just choosing a contrast filter that you think looks right, print with two exposures. One with a 0 filter to control highlights and one with a 5 filter to control blacks. That way you can adjust exposure time with each filter separately and you have way more control over tonality than if you just use one filter.

Not sure if this is something that a lot of people do, but that's how I was taught to print and it is definitely better than the regular method.
Click to expand...

split filtering sucks. it takes forever and you should really only do it if you absolutely have to. Most of the time if you have a good exposure and a normal tonal range there is no reason to split filter. the only reason i would ever split filter is if the print in question calls for it because normal filter and printing techniques are not achieving the required result. and that is just because it is a huge pain in the ass end of story.

as for rc paper, yuck. save yourself the trouble and just print fiber based. people say its more difficult but not really, just beware of the dry down which is only like 7 - 10% rc looks cheap and plasticish. fiber is very very beautiful when printed on well. just avoid matte as it is extremely difficult get prints that look good. i tried matte printing for a long time and the results were just not anywhere near gloss.
 
12952482:shredding_panda said:
Getting this on Friday for 30$

Minolta-AL-F.jpg
Click to expand...

I have that camera, it's light and fun. Only reason I don't use it currently is I need to fix the light leaks. Though now that I have my Yashica I much prefer Aperture priority over Shutter priority, but I'll probably break it out from time to time.
 
I have an pentax mx which is a pretty good camera. but for the printing, a #2 filter is pretty average you don't start getting contrast until 3-4
 
12950690:omnidata said:
^

People's backs aren't art. ;)
Click to expand...

How about these?

5fr8mr.jpg


2hs8coy.jpg


316ucjk.jpg


Any feedback would be appreciated. I'm not really used to shooting wide angle yet. I think I need to just man up and get closer.

12950761:TijmenDal said:
Thanks for the explanation Paul. Clear as crystal. I've never learned to use two filters for the same exposure, although I do know it's common I didn't really link one and one.

And you got an M6? Now I'm confused... I thought you were set on getting a medium format cat?
Click to expand...

Yeah I didn't get a Leica. I got a Mamiya 6.
 
12955109:Sklar said:
well my first roll was all blank, so time to start over
Click to expand...

Sucks, but it happens, I lost an entire roll that I shot on a massive 6 state roadtrip and it will be many months before I go back there again
 
any of you cool cats with an M want to buy my 50 nokton 1.5? Trying to grab a chrome v5 cron that just popped up
 
12955350:Balto said:
any of you cool cats with an M want to buy my 50 nokton 1.5? Trying to grab a chrome v5 cron that just popped up
Click to expand...

I was wondering why you threw that up for sale. that cron is a beauty
 
I decided that I am going to save some money now and get a dedicated spot meter and a dedicated incident meter rather than splurge on a combo like the L-508.

I have been looking around at spot meters and will probably get a Sekonic L488 or a Soligor Digi Spot Sensor, or really any spot meter under $100 for that matter.

Are there any incident meters that I should watch for? Any I should avoid? I really need to stay under $50 MAXIMUM. Can most incident meters also do average reflected also? That isn't much of a priority though since the L-488 does 1 and 21 degree readings.
 
I found a somewhat local (1 hr drive) film store near me, decided to check it out, and got 5 rolls of expired ektachrome for $10. twas a good day.
 
12955106:plorr said:
Any feedback would be appreciated. I'm not really used to shooting wide angle yet. I think I need to just man up and get closer.
Click to expand...

Not just get closer, but consider the geometry of your compositions in a fore/aft sense due to the spatial expansion of shooting wide angle. Instead of using spatial compression to push objects together in a geometrically 2D fashion (telephoto), you're doing just the opposite - think of it as sculpting a cube rather than subtracting into a square, if that makes sense. Everything becomes exaggerated as it nears the edge of the frame, which should lead your eye to the center (square format), so use your peripheral setting to gesture towards the "point" of the photo.

bonus points: experiment with one point perspective using wide angle. It can lead to some really stark and minimalistic results if done intelligently.
 
12956607:lIllI said:
Not just get closer, but consider the geometry of your compositions in a fore/aft sense due to the spatial expansion of shooting wide angle. Instead of using spatial compression to push objects together in a geometrically 2D fashion (telephoto), you're doing just the opposite - think of it as sculpting a cube rather than subtracting into a square, if that makes sense. Everything becomes exaggerated as it nears the edge of the frame, which should lead your eye to the center (square format), so use your peripheral setting to gesture towards the "point" of the photo.

bonus points: experiment with one point perspective using wide angle. It can lead to some really stark and minimalistic results if done intelligently.
Click to expand...

this link says exactly what you said, but with a little more detail in case anyone wants it
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/how-to-use-ultra-wide-lenses.htm
 
12956607:lIllI said:
Instead of using spatial compression to push objects together in a geometrically 2D fashion (telephoto), you're doing just the opposite - think of it as sculpting a cube rather than subtracting into a square, if that makes sense.
Click to expand...

Thank you Landis. That makes so much sense. I'm gonna be in New York tomorrow, hopefully I'll have a couple free hours to go shoot. I will definitely be keeping this in mind.
 
Been wanting to get into film and get a camera for a while now but know pretty much nothing. Just read through this thread so I have a little knowledge about some beginner cameras but any suggestions would be awesome
 
12956895:ForeverYung said:
Been wanting to get into film and get a camera for a while now but know pretty much nothing. Just read through this thread so I have a little knowledge about some beginner cameras but any suggestions would be awesome
Click to expand...

Follow the five simple steps in my omniscient guide to film photography on page 1.
 
12956909:omnidata said:
Follow the five simple steps in my omniscient guide to film photography on page 1.
Click to expand...

I checked my local thrift shop the other day to see if they would have any and had no luck
 
Lawrence always forgets 1 key step when it comes to thrift shop slr's and trix, you've gotta put a dark red filter on for maximum contrast, lots of contrast = lots of art
 
12956963:Balto said:
Lawrence always forgets 1 key step when it comes to thrift shop slr's and trix, you've gotta put a dark red filter on for maximum contrast, lots of contrast = lots of art
Click to expand...

Dark red filters must actually be bought since I've never found one at a thrift shop, also don't forget to push the everloving fuck out of that film, more grain = more art.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top