Ask a mechanic.

yeah its just the oil change reminder. my mom told me to go to the dealership, but i dont want to sacrifice the time and figured it can be done by myself. thanks, duder.
 
my truck battery stopped charging which I am pretty sure was because of my alternator. I replaced it, but want to make sure the battery is still good so I don't fry my new one as well.
 
On the subject of alternators.

Is it common for them to make a whirring sound when they are on the way out?? I'm getting this odd new constant whirring coming from my engine. Popped the hood and it certainly sounds like it's coming from the alternator.

98 6 cyl toyota t100 if that makes any difference.
 
I have an 07 GMC sierra (new style) and every now and again during hard accelerations there is a tremendous thud sound coming from the transfer case or the tranny or drive train somewhere. It literally sounds like the transmission fell out. It has been making this noise since about 50000kms or 5 years ago, I now have 200000kms. Everything seems normal. had the dealer check it under warranty and said everything is fine. I have done a little research a apparently it can be caused by the slip joint in the drive shaft? not enough lube and it doesn't slide back and forth like it should?? (forgive me if I butchered that I am not a vehicle expert)
 
2002 Volvo V70, 232000km here is the story.

Accelerated faster than normal at the light (shifted into second gear around 4500RPM. Once it shifted into about 3rd my temp gauge went all the way to the red (overheating. Luckily i was a corner away from my house so i pull into the driveway. Pop the hood and there is no coolant at all, and notice a steady stream of coolant down the road. I let the car cool down for about 30 mins, filled it back up with the correct amount of coolant, and started it back up. Just below normal temp now (middle). I took it for a quick spin around the block, and as soon as the rpms went over 2000 the gauge would sky rocket again. Check the coolant, all gone again. I pulled the thermostat and was extremely hot, and the rad hose was completely dry. So i figure that the thermostat was fried. Installed a new one and did the exact same thing as the old one. Had it towed to a local garage, and they thought it sounded like a thermostat, which i told them i had already installed a new one earlier. Also, car does not have any sort of heat ever since the hard accel. off the stop light. Its sitting at the garage right now and haven't got a phone call back. Any insight on what might the problem is?

thanks so much
 
Yeah it's just your drive shaft making noise. Throw some grease on there and it'll be good. My 4th gen 4runner has the same issue
 
mine did. it lasted about 8 months doing that though. never bothered to replace it because my battery was old and the alternator kept the battery charged enough until it finally suddently died. It mostly made that noise for a couple minutes when it was still cold.
 
Yeah, generators will hum on their way out of life but sometimes it could be a simple fix like the pulley on the generator as well. The easiest way to check if its the pulley is to slide the belt off and use a screwdriver to wedge between the generator case and the internal fins of the generator then try to spin the pulley both ways, it should spin freely one way and lock the opposite way... they have a one way clutch internally in the pulley... if the pulley is shot, you can replace just a pulley for a small amount of cash.
 
It could be the waterpump or an airlock in the coolant system that is starving the engine block.

The easiest way to check the coolant pump is to pull the return line off the coolant expansion chamber ( it is always the top one, the bottom line is the feed line) and run the engine to see if any coolant is returning to the coolant tank.

To test for an air leak, run the car with the coolant cap off and see if there is flow and if there is lots of air bubbles coming out from the return line. The easiest way to bleed a coolant system is to just run the car with the cap off the coolant tank and find some bleed screws if they are equipped on the car.

The coolant tank could have over flowed while you were driving and just vented all the extra coolant out of the tank due to excessive pressure.

The best way to check a thermostat is to get an infared temp gun from canadian tire ( they have a pocket one on sale for 29 bucks right now, which is a steal of a deal) and compare the temps of the 2 rad hoses (upper and lower )and wait for the hotside hose to hit 90 degrees then very quickly after this happens the thermostat should open and you should see the coolside hose begin to heat to 90 degrees as well. This test must be done when the car is cool and has sat for a while. This is just a test to see if the thermostat is opening when it should and its ability to regulate temp of the coolant.

Another plan of attack could be to go to princess auto ( I can see that you are canadian from your avatar ) and get a coolant pressure tester kit ( which are on sale right now at princess auto until the 2nd or 3rd of april i believe) and pressure test your coolant system. use the pressure testing kit to bring the pressure on the coolant system to 1 bar of pressure and let it sit with the engine off but with the pressure kit on the coolant bottle to watch for a drop in pressure over time, if there is any drop in pressure there is a leak in the system ( internal or external).

Everything listed here is the quick and easy checks.
 
They all vary between era's and engines. I know certain VW engines are bullet proof while others are made from glass. If i had to buy a car for a friend that was german, it would most likely be a 2.5 liter VW... that engine is rock solid.
 
If it has gone for as long as you say making the noise, the shaft is most likely toast by now since it was not lubricated properly. I would price out a replacement drive shaft to be honest, they are fairly cheap for american made cars and most of the time are not too terrible to install. The worst part of the install is dropping the exhaust system of the car which can be rusty as fuck dependent of where you live.

If you plan to replace the shaft, get exhaust hardware as most likely you will destroy it when removing it.
 
My audi has mostly everything replaced in it recently. (alternator, starter, engine) and the battery has been tested to be mostly working well. BUT, I'm having issues starting up the car. It doesn't start half of the time. Like it will not make any noises for about 5 or 6 tries sometimes, then out of the blue it will turn over and start.

I've had it at the shop multiple times and they haven't been able to find anything wrong with it. One of those times apparently there was a loose connection in the starter (i believe?). Other times, I've had it towed over when it was not starting, the shop guys try and turn it on and it does for about 3 days. Then, I come to pick it up and it doesnt start for about 5 tries. But eventually does. They say that if it keeps on going then they want to change the alternator, even when it is relatively new, within a year...

Its an 04 A4 1.8t with 150k on it, so its time is coming close to an end. But it runs great when it starts, but in the past few months I have been quite scared to use it/turn it off when not at home just based on this issue, which really sucks..

-any thoughts are appreciated.

thanks
 
I have an 2004 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 with 102k on it. I get oil changes pers usual but they are the quicky lube type because i live in San Francsico and there is nowhere i can do it myself without it being a big hassle. I take it into a mecahnic i trust every 6 months for a check-up + good oil change+fising any other issues. Currently im having issues with the power locks on the passenger side, but that is w/e and ill get that fixed in a few weeks when i take it back into my mechanic...not important right now.

4 questions:

-Is there anything i should make sure my mechanic pays special attention to around this milage? Belts, bearings, high wear areas? I road trip a lot and do not want to get stranded in a remote area you know?

-Anytime i get above 5000 ft in elevation my low tire pressure sensor comes on. this was perfect during the winter as i was only above 5k when i was going skiing and wanted the extra grip on snowy roads, but now im a little worried it is killing my MPG. Does the tire pressure sensor only come on when pressure is REALLY low, or just barely below optimal pressure?

-Is there anything other than tire pressure i can do to increase my MPG? Fuel additive? chips? etc how much if any will those bump up my mpg?

-Lastly, do you do any audio instalation? Just curious for your recomendation of speakers + mp3 connection thingy.
 
I cannot believe how shitty some mechanics are out there. A no start is normally fair easy to diagnose since there is hardly anything on a stater motor circuit.

When you are having trouble starting the car, can you still put the car into the start position and have terminal power? ( do all the lights come on in the dashboard ). I need some more info before i can guide you any further.
 
Make sure if you have a timing/cam belt, it should be changed when the mileage calls for it. If that belt snapped while the engine is running, it basically destroys your cylinder heads so it is beyond important to have it changes. My suggestion is to take a look at your service record book and read through what is rec'ed at your mileage and pick and choose what seems most important. The things that will leave you stranded are normally replaced at the 50k mile mark, just make sure the " major " service has been performed ( timing belt, spark plugs, air filter). If you dont have an owners book anymore, you can look up schd. service for your truck online. One thing I would check is making sure your spare tire is not rusted to the mounting hubs, and that your spare tire tool kit is still all organized and complete.... sometimes when a tire sits on a hub for too long it gets corroded on and can be a nightmare to remove without proper tools.... every 5-6 months just take the spare tire off its mount and put it back on to prevent any future problems.

TPM systems normally dont actually measure specific pressure values, but some systems do. If your TPMS is going off at high elevations it most likely means you have a system that actually measures your pressures. The TPMS light doesnt really indicate a large drop in pressure, a drop of 5psi from a set value will set off the light since it really supposed to give a driver a large amount of warning so it would not leave you stranded.

There is no magic way to improve fuel mileage besides driving habits and not traveling with roof racks needlessly. Having too low of tire pressure can cause additional rolling resistance so that can be an issue if the tire pressures are too low, but typically it should not be too noticeable if the tire pressures are at reasonable levels. The main thing to work on is driving habits, look up some hyper mileage tips on google and it will give some pointers on how to adjust your driving habits. Running a higher octane fuel does help improve economy in regards to fuel mileage but obviously will cost you a bit more at the pump.

I do not really deal with audio related installs, I have always worked at high end car dealerships which already have top of the line audio systems installed so I have not really dealt with aftermarket audio.
 
You are the Man! thanks for the responses, friend!

The spare tire is a great idea, would have never thought about it till it was probly too late haha. Tryna take off rusted on bolts would be a nightmare with the little shitty tire iron i have in there.

 
The 4.0 V6 has a timing chain, so it doesn't need to be replaced until wellll past 100k. My 09 4runner gets shit MPG as well hahahahha. It doesn't help that a drive like an asshole but whatever.
 
is it possible that a my radiator fan, which is missing a blade, can cause some bad vibrations through the car? I know my engine mounts were done so i just replaced them. And i know the fan hit something due to them being worn out.
 
Fuck yeah it will. The fan spins retardedly fast when its on and when it is missing a fin , the balance is wayyyy off. It literally will feel like the car is falling apart sometimes.
 
The place I go do is a chain auto shop: Monro Muffler break and service..

When it doesn't start, and I turn the key, all of the electronics do come on and work fully. But when I turn the key all of the way, no noise is made. Then I'll try it a couple times and hopefully it turns on.
 
wow, your the man! The night i posted this i got the car towed to my regular mechanic's garage. Turns out it was the water pump, which was only replaced a year and a half ago. So it was still under warrenty. Picking her back up tonight! thanks again for the help, you were bang on.

Luke
 
1994 Camry overheated on a road trip. Pulled off my radiator hose to get a look at my thermostat, which was stuck closed. In the process of pulling it off, lots of antifreeze came out. I haven't cleaned any of it off of the parts since those happened three weeks ago. My car has pretty much sat since, besides going to the shop. Is that going to corrode away the the frame and various engine components?
 
To my knowledge antifreeze is not corrosive so you're fine. You should clean it up, but it shouldn't do any damage to your car.
 
ok this is really annoying me. Brand new VW Jetta (less than 5000) that I'm using for the next 3 months. Fun car to drive, but the alarm system keeps going off for fuck all reasons. so far I've figured out that if you take they key out with your foot on the brake the alarm goes off, if you park then close the windows before taking the key out the alarm goes off (doesn't if you take the key out then close the windows) and many other seemingly retarded reasons for the alarm to go off. Most involve taking the key out of the ignition after driving and some when putting it in the ignition.

It's frustrating as hell and there really is no telling what you're going to do that'll trigger the alarm. So is there a way to adjust the alarm sensitivity? Looked it up for a while with no luck. Or maybe there's something wrong?
 
2000 nissan maxima, auto transmission, 215k miles. The last few months (winter) I noticed rough idle when starting in cold temps, maybe it stalled once or twice. After reading more about what normal idle should be I'd say my idle has been high (1200-1500 rpms in P/N) for a while- didn't pay much attention as it had been like that ever since I got it off my dad 10k? miles ago.

So the car shut off while sitting at light a few weeks ago. I was able to start it, get through the intersection, it stalled again and I coasted to a spot where I could call a tow. The car would start up and turn off immediately. While waiting on the tow to show up I tried to start and gas it to see if the idle would work itself out-it did not. While giving it gas the SES light came on. My tow shows up, takes me to destination, car now starts up and drives.

The code from SES gives p0505 which relates to IACV (common problem in 5th gen maxima is coolant gets in the IACV motor, shorts it and then shorts ECM). So first I pulled ECM to check for shorted chip. Everything looks (and smells) normal. Next went (partially) through FSM diagnostic for p0505. Verified there is power to IACV, continuity between IACV and ECM, and proper resistance across IACV pins (all was around 23-24 ohms). In my mind I rule out IACV failure here.

FSM diagnostic also runs through failure related to power steering air control valve. I disconnected the hose running from the ps air control valve at the intake and did not feel any vacuum, and still no vacuum when turning the wheel. I suppose this indicates to replace the power steering air control valve. From what I have read though, it doesn't seem like this part would cause the car to shut down- but just keep triggering SES and related p0505 code.

Additionally I did the following:

-Cleaned throttle body

-Cleaned MAFS

Drove it around the block twice and everything seemed to work ok (no problems starting up since it was towed). This past weekend I tried to do idle relearn. Drove about 10 min away to Walmart to pick up some stuff, when I got back in the car it was back to the original problem. Car turns off and dies right away. On the third try it turned on. I decided I would try and drive home. Just pulling through the lot I noticed rpms wanted to just drop (below 500 rpm) to where it would shut off without me giving it gas. I drove it home but would have to make sure to keep the rpms up when I stopped or got off the accelerator. When I got back, I tried the idle relearn anyways. Maybe it worked, maybe it didn't- rpms seemed right, but right after doing the procedure I turned it off and back on. It died right away and wouldn't restart. Disconnected MAFS to see what happened. It turned on and idled.

Is the MAFS likely the issue?

Can the ps air control valve cause these problems?

Or am I overlooking the IACV still?

Please halp ;)
 
My 2000 Subaru outback 2.5 h4 with factory everything has developed a wheel wobble.

It happens between 25 and 35, and at 75. It started a few days after I switched from winter tires to summer tires (on different wheels, I switched them myself.)

gets significantly worse when accelerating uphill, or turning at speed

My dad thinks its a wheel balance issue, but the fact that it's not constant would lead me to think it's something else?

it's going into the shop this weekend, I'm just curious if I should avoid driving it till then.
 
my 99 Volvo s70 randomly dies while im driving and stalls out. it usually only happens when i have less than a half tank of gas. i took it in and the guy said my "Tank Filler neck" is rusted out. is that actually the problem or is it something else?
 
i drive a '77 jeep CJ7 with the original drive train, the straight 6 4,2l AMC with the carter bbd2 carburetor

and lately its been running very poorly when cold, i've already checked the sparkplugs, replaced the sparkplug cables and had someone clean out and overhaul the carburetor

when its cold it will stall when unattended and will also stall when i brake hard at low speeds or when i start to accelerate from stationary, or when take a corner

once its warmed up it runs ok, its an old engine so its not crystal clear but the engine seems to run properly
 
12984668:DIPED_IN_SAUCE said:
My 2000 Subaru outback 2.5 h4 with factory everything has developed a wheel wobble.

It happens between 25 and 35, and at 75. It started a few days after I switched from winter tires to summer tires (on different wheels, I switched them myself.)

gets significantly worse when accelerating uphill, or turning at speed

My dad thinks its a wheel balance issue, but the fact that it's not constant would lead me to think it's something else?

it's going into the shop this weekend, I'm just curious if I should avoid driving it till then.
Click to expand...

Does the vibration stop when you lay off the gas and coast? If so, it is most likely an axle-shaft.
 
12984867:I_Am_Mod said:
i drive a '77 jeep CJ7 with the original drive train, the straight 6 4,2l AMC with the carter bbd2 carburetor

and lately its been running very poorly when cold, i've already checked the sparkplugs, replaced the sparkplug cables and had someone clean out and overhaul the carburetor

when its cold it will stall when unattended and will also stall when i brake hard at low speeds or when i start to accelerate from stationary, or when take a corner

once its warmed up it runs ok, its an old engine so its not crystal clear but the engine seems to run properly
Click to expand...

Sounds like you need to clean the carburetor out. After long periods of time they tend to get gummed up, take it off, look up a how to tutorial and clean that bad boy. Should solve your issue, and make the jeep run better to boot.
 
12984955:speedin said:
Sounds like you need to clean the carburetor out. After long periods of time they tend to get gummed up, take it off, look up a how to tutorial and clean that bad boy. Should solve your issue, and make the jeep run better to boot.
Click to expand...

as i said above, its been checked and cleaned by a mechanic, it looked like new when i got it back, inside and outside
 
12984976:I_Am_Mod said:
as i said above, its been checked and cleaned by a mechanic, it looked like new when i got it back, inside and outside
Click to expand...

Sounds like a vacuum leak. Do you have emissions over there? Wondering if it's egr/emissions related..but it could be you've already removed all of that.

I know you said you checked the plugs..I assume that means you checked for proper gap and checked the tips to see if they're firing correctly?

Any chance it's not firing on all cylinders? You could run the engine the pull one wire at a time, if the engine starts to stumble you know that it's firing correctly. If you pull a wire and the engine doesn't make a difference you know the cylinder isn't firing

I'm also pretty sure that BBD carb is notorious for having issues, I know you said you had it checked but even after a rebuild it can still dump fuel and stall out. Honestly I would bite the bullet and spend a couple hundred on a weber...my buddy has a '83 with similar problems replaced it with a weber after replacing EGR, fuel pump, vac lines, sensors, plugs etc. all to no avail

Sorry for the long winded response, I'm just trying to throw ideas from when my buddy was chasing a very similar issue in his CJ...good luck. Got any new pics??
 
12984986:Ski_the_east01 said:
Sounds like a vacuum leak. Do you have emissions over there? Wondering if it's egr/emissions related..but it could be you've already removed all of that.

I know you said you checked the plugs..I assume that means you checked for proper gap and checked the tips to see if they're firing correctly?

Any chance it's not firing on all cylinders? You could run the engine the pull one wire at a time, if the engine starts to stumble you know that it's firing correctly. If you pull a wire and the engine doesn't make a difference you know the cylinder isn't firing

I'm also pretty sure that BBD carb is notorious for having issues, I know you said you had it checked but even after a rebuild it can still dump fuel and stall out. Honestly I would bite the bullet and spend a couple hundred on a weber...my buddy has a '83 with similar problems replaced it with a weber after replacing EGR, fuel pump, vac lines, sensors, plugs etc. all to no avail

Sorry for the long winded response, I'm just trying to throw ideas from when my buddy was chasing a very similar issue in his CJ...good luck. Got any new pics??
Click to expand...

yeah, checked the gap and theyre all firing properly, but you might be right, i'm also a bit weary about the carb, might need to look for a weber after all :/

no recent pics though, since i tore my acl i havent driven it

so i guess ill look into the vac system :)
 
12984414:VinnieF said:
ok this is really annoying me. Brand new VW Jetta (less than 5000) that I'm using for the next 3 months. Fun car to drive, but the alarm system keeps going off for fuck all reasons. so far I've figured out that if you take they key out with your foot on the brake the alarm goes off, if you park then close the windows before taking the key out the alarm goes off (doesn't if you take the key out then close the windows) and many other seemingly retarded reasons for the alarm to go off. Most involve taking the key out of the ignition after driving and some when putting it in the ignition.

It's frustrating as hell and there really is no telling what you're going to do that'll trigger the alarm. So is there a way to adjust the alarm sensitivity? Looked it up for a while with no luck. Or maybe there's something wrong?
Click to expand...

is it the factory system or an aftermarket system. I know the VW systems quite well, most alarm issues are from aftermarket alarm systems.
 
12938234:Funnel said:
1994 Camry overheated on a road trip. Pulled off my radiator hose to get a look at my thermostat, which was stuck closed. In the process of pulling it off, lots of antifreeze came out. I haven't cleaned any of it off of the parts since those happened three weeks ago. My car has pretty much sat since, besides going to the shop. Is that going to corrode away the the frame and various engine components?
Click to expand...

it is not corrosive for the most part but leaves a nasty film and smell all over things. Just spray it down with a hose but avoid your spark plugs and dist cap.
 
12984867:I_Am_Mod said:
i drive a '77 jeep CJ7 with the original drive train, the straight 6 4,2l AMC with the carter bbd2 carburetor

and lately its been running very poorly when cold, i've already checked the sparkplugs, replaced the sparkplug cables and had someone clean out and overhaul the carburetor

when its cold it will stall when unattended and will also stall when i brake hard at low speeds or when i start to accelerate from stationary, or when take a corner

once its warmed up it runs ok, its an old engine so its not crystal clear but the engine seems to run properly
Click to expand...

is the throttle plate too tight when it is cold? It would make sense since it warms and expands your car runs properly. Maybe pop off your intake pipe and manually flip your throttle plate and see how much it resists. Maybe at the same time do a throttle cable adjustment just to rule it out.

I think at the point your out, it is going to be picking small things and covering all the bases before you dive head first in. I dont have too much exp with carbs but i do know that throttle plates do have issues with carb'ed cars.
 
12984458:cornholio said:
2000 nissan maxima, auto transmission, 215k miles. The last few months (winter) I noticed rough idle when starting in cold temps, maybe it stalled once or twice. After reading more about what normal idle should be I'd say my idle has been high (1200-1500 rpms in P/N) for a while- didn't pay much attention as it had been like that ever since I got it off my dad 10k? miles ago.

So the car shut off while sitting at light a few weeks ago. I was able to start it, get through the intersection, it stalled again and I coasted to a spot where I could call a tow. The car would start up and turn off immediately. While waiting on the tow to show up I tried to start and gas it to see if the idle would work itself out-it did not. While giving it gas the SES light came on. My tow shows up, takes me to destination, car now starts up and drives.

The code from SES gives p0505 which relates to IACV (common problem in 5th gen maxima is coolant gets in the IACV motor, shorts it and then shorts ECM). So first I pulled ECM to check for shorted chip. Everything looks (and smells) normal. Next went (partially) through FSM diagnostic for p0505. Verified there is power to IACV, continuity between IACV and ECM, and proper resistance across IACV pins (all was around 23-24 ohms). In my mind I rule out IACV failure here.

FSM diagnostic also runs through failure related to power steering air control valve. I disconnected the hose running from the ps air control valve at the intake and did not feel any vacuum, and still no vacuum when turning the wheel. I suppose this indicates to replace the power steering air control valve. From what I have read though, it doesn't seem like this part would cause the car to shut down- but just keep triggering SES and related p0505 code.

Additionally I did the following:

-Cleaned throttle body

-Cleaned MAFS

Drove it around the block twice and everything seemed to work ok (no problems starting up since it was towed). This past weekend I tried to do idle relearn. Drove about 10 min away to Walmart to pick up some stuff, when I got back in the car it was back to the original problem. Car turns off and dies right away. On the third try it turned on. I decided I would try and drive home. Just pulling through the lot I noticed rpms wanted to just drop (below 500 rpm) to where it would shut off without me giving it gas. I drove it home but would have to make sure to keep the rpms up when I stopped or got off the accelerator. When I got back, I tried the idle relearn anyways. Maybe it worked, maybe it didn't- rpms seemed right, but right after doing the procedure I turned it off and back on. It died right away and wouldn't restart. Disconnected MAFS to see what happened. It turned on and idled.

Is the MAFS likely the issue?

Can the ps air control valve cause these problems?

Or am I overlooking the IACV still?

Please halp ;)
Click to expand...

The idle air control motor is hard to test without having a tester that can run it through its steps. Most IVAC have 10 different levels in their stepper motor, so I would not rule out a problem with the motor.

When you disconnect a MAF and run the engine and it seems to sort itself out a bit, that normally indicates a faulty MAF. I use that trick to verify faulty MAF's quite often, so I would replace the MAF right off the bat because cleaning them is not actually something i would suggest, they are an ultra sensitive thermistor normally and if you use anything other than a q tip and water.. it leaves a film on it that fucks with all future readings. MAF is a replace only part, unless a MAF is not made anymore/ too expensive.

I would start with the MAF replacement, and see how the car reacts. I have a feeling that the stepper motor in your IVAC is toast as well, but try the MAF first and see where it takes you.

A faulty MAF will stall a car so it is a good place to start. The power steering valve will not stall your car. If you feel up the task, buy a vacuum gauge that you can hook to the intake manifold port of your car ( normally a nipple somewhere on the manifold) and monitor your vac your car is making during idle, it could be quite helpful to have a vac number.... it can lead you in a direction of where the issues are.
 
12984668:DIPED_IN_SAUCE said:
My 2000 Subaru outback 2.5 h4 with factory everything has developed a wheel wobble.

It happens between 25 and 35, and at 75. It started a few days after I switched from winter tires to summer tires (on different wheels, I switched them myself.)

gets significantly worse when accelerating uphill, or turning at speed

My dad thinks its a wheel balance issue, but the fact that it's not constant would lead me to think it's something else?

it's going into the shop this weekend, I'm just curious if I should avoid driving it till then.
Click to expand...

Verify the wheels are actually tight. That is step number one, who ever installed them could have forgot to torque a few bolts and that could be your issue. Wheel balance issues are typically always above 70/80 kmph, low speed wobbles are from tire separation ( the tread of the tire does not have a uniform pattern anymore).
 
12985002:nick21861 said:
Can motorcycles be included in this thread?
Click to expand...

I know almost nothing about bikes, but I could always try to help. Engines always work the same way, it doesnt matter what they are in.

The only diff is 2 stroke vs 4 stroke.
 
The idle air control motor is hard to test without having a tester that can run it through its steps. Most IVAC have 10 different levels in their stepper motor, so I would not rule out a problem with the motor.
Click to expand...

the testing in the FSM consisted of checking power to iacv, continuity from IACV to ECM, resistance across the 4 pin combinations at the wiring harness to see if it shorted, and then to see if it makes noise when the ignition turns on- so i could see how there could potentially be other issues.

When you disconnect a MAF and run the engine and it seems to sort itself out a bit, that normally indicates a faulty MAF. I use that trick to verify faulty MAF's quite often, so I would replace the MAF right off the bat because cleaning them is not actually something i would suggest, they are an ultra sensitive thermistor normally and if you use anything other than a q tip and water.. it leaves a film on it that fucks with all future readings.
Click to expand...

good to know, i read MAF cleaner was the best for that so that's what i used, but i understand cleaner wont help if it's on its way out.

I would start with the MAF replacement, and see how the car reacts. I have a feeling that the stepper motor in your IVAC is toast as well, but try the MAF first and see where it takes you.

The power steering valve will not stall your car.
Click to expand...

i thought as much about the power steering valve but glad you could confirm.

my suspicion is the MAF also bc the stalling issues were happening without triggering the SES or any codes- it was trying to fix the problem with the accelerator that brought it up.

i already ordered all 3 parts, the car is pretty old so if any of the parts don't actually NEED to be replaced i'm going to go ahead and call it preventative maintenance and do it anyways. sucks to just throw money at parts for a beater but if it saves me from breaking down or getting towed it'll be worth it.

i'd like to say i'll replace them 1 by 1 and see if i can actually solve what the true problem is but once i start taking out the airbox i might just continue to the iacv to get it all in 1 shot. was thinking this order- 1. MAF (b/c car worked after old one disconnected), 2. PS valve (no vacuum felt-but may do last if that's not the source of the stall), 3. IACV

if its still not solved i may look into one of those vacuum things for further checks or reach out to a friend of a friend mechanic. thanks for your help/insight, very much appreciated
 
Truck is giving me tranny problems

runs ok when its cold. once its warm, starts to shift rough. and if i turn it on and off, O/D light flashes and tranny goes into limp mode. ( shifts 1st 2nd neutral, stuck at 50km/h)

its a 97 ford f 250 7.3l diesel

Got it scanned

p0236 Turbo Boost Sensor A Circut Performance

p0708 Transmission Range Sensor Circut High

p0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circut High

My truck has always had a voltage fluctuation. goes from 11.5 - 14v constantly. Unless above 1300rpm.

The lights dim and get brighter the battery gauge goes up and down, the idle moves SLIGHTLY. barley noticeable.

From my reading it could be something with the PCM wiring harness. Doesn't seem like the sensors are blown, they are just getting incorrect voltage. Which i think is linked to my fluctuation problem.

I dont want to start getting random shit fixed. Would rather get 4 birds stoned at once.
 
Car smells like gas ever since I got had fuel injector worked on/replaced a few days ago, I imagine that's probably related? Should I just take it back to the mechanic?
 
12996301:RedPanda said:
Car smells like gas ever since I got had fuel injector worked on/replaced a few days ago, I imagine that's probably related? Should I just take it back to the mechanic?
Click to expand...

sounds like an injector seal leak. Pretty common. injector seals are one time use seals, he might have tried to reuse one or didnt have a proper seal installing kit for your car. take it back wtih out a doubt, could start a fire in right conditions.
 
12996308:Ralph_Swaggum said:
What would you consider to be the best all around used car available today that fits the skiing/outdoors lifestyle?
Click to expand...

a small suv is most likely best all around. Subaru have some pretty bad reliability problems. I love Audi allroads but 2.7tt engine is made out of glass.

SUV for awd and ground clearance.
 
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