Ask a mechanic.

well, find the fuel rail feed line and pull the line off and have a friend crank the car, it should be pushing out some decent volume of fuel. Catch all the gas in a empty pop can or something while youre doing this.

Intake restriction is hard, check air filter is a good starting point. Take off the tube that leads into the throttle plate and see if you can move the throttle plate freely with your hand. Check to see if the throttle cable is stretch by feeling how much slack is in the cable at rest, there should not be that much slack at all.

You could also have a plugged cat convertor, run the car and clog the exhaust with your hand with a few rags under it and see if it creates a fair amount of back pressure.

Next step after these is to find a vacuum gauge and hook that puppy up to your intake and start getting some readings.
 
thanks for the tips man, I ended up changing my passenger side axle myself and it was relatively painless. Forgot to bend a tab over one of the hub lockwashers though and had to take it back apart after I was all done and cleaned up.

Now I do have a fuckin problem though.

Got a pedidle(headlight out passenger side), changed bulb, still no lowbeam. checked all fuses, nothing bad. Pull the driver side headlight fuse out and they both come on lowbeam dim as shit. Buddy is telling me I've got some kind of short. Dude who owned the truck before me had aftermarket lights and fireman lights along with a block heater that is still on the truck. I'm fearing I've got a short somewhere and I really don't feel like searching high and low for it. Any tips??
 
oh-you-dog.jpg
 
i drive a bmw e36 320i convertible, and when going about 5 mph with the windows down/roof off i hear this vibration sound. Sounds like metal vibrating on metal. Any clue what it might be, and how to fix it?
 
Perfect.

I have a 2004 VW GTI VR6 with 150,XXX. Recently I've noticed a weird whining when I decelerate in third gear. I've heard it could be a multitude of things. Thoughts? BTW this car has never been beat on in its entire life.
 
got another one for you tronned...

Still having an issue with my driver side door controls on a 2003 CTS. driver window, driver lock are inoperable. lock won't lock from key fob nor from driver unlock switch. all window switches other then the driver switch are operational.

-Checked all associated fuses first, all good.

-Swapped 100% working driver control switch cluster, same problems so I assume my switches are OK.

-Checked on-board diagnostics center, nothing showing electrical issue.

-Pulled my door panel to check if there were any loose connections, didn't appear to be anything out of the ordinary.

The crazy thing is it's affecting things like my radio turning off when the driver door is open, the switches won't illuminate when dark.

I'm not a skilled electrician so I'm thinking about taking it in...just wanted to give you one last try.
 
too hard to guess at what the noise could be without hearing it. Maybe a brake disc backsplash plate?
 
first things first in this situation is to pull a sample of fluid. Its a 17mm hex allen key on the bottom of your transmission case, pull it out and have a clear container that you have cleaned before hand under and catch like 300ml of fluid in that container. Look for any metal flakes or metallic hue to the fluid, if you have some floaties you most likely have some bearing wear issues.

Keep in mind, your car is higher mileage so it will have a slight metallic hue to the fluid no matter what..... Im saying what youre looking for will look like you poured a bit of metallic paint into a cup and it shines when you hold it up to a flashlight.

If you have this metallic fluid, you will need a transmission rebuild soon, which is fairly costly as its 15-20 hours labour with what i would guess to be 500-700 bucks in parts.

If your fluid is a nice color with no metal floaties in it, its most likely a chipped 3 gearset.

Check out my picture profile if you want to see what the guts of your transmission look like when the case has been split.
 
Any experience changing the bank 1 sensor 1 pre cat O2 sensor on a 2003 audi a4 3.0 quattro? I haven't been able to find a decent write up anywhere on the internet.
 
i cant really recall on that engine. I would assume its not bad, get a good o2 sensor wrench and some good rust breaking spray and it should be easy.

mst6775.jpg


o2 sensors are easy mode, just gotta make enough room to get at them.

do you have o2 sensor related faults or cat convert faults?
 
keep in mind, the radio could be a separate issue so dont get too hung up on the radio.

Its very easy to check all the switches but if you dont know the theory behind it, its very difficult to pick up and be able to bang out a diagnosis.

im 99 percent sure its a broken door wiring harness.

see if this video can help you understand some more in electical diagnosis.

 
the abs is my '98 lexus gs300 was acting weird so the mechanic i went to just disabled it so i just no longer have abs. this is no big deal now but i have heard that the car wont pass inspection in New Hampshire because the abs is not functional. is this true? will any mechanic pass it? how much does it cost to fix?
 
it wont pass inspection if the abs is not working. the cost of repair will vary depending on the issue it is having. Could be 200 bucks for a wheel speed sensor, it could be 2000 for an abs module.
 
since you say it occurs at 5mph, why not have a friend walk next to the car and see if they can pinpoint where the sound is coming from.
 
This varies state to state. Some states don't give two shits if your ABS is functioning or not so long as your brakes function properly themselves. Some states do care.

By the book, NH inspections don't indicate that they check the status of ABS.

http://65.82.88.69/Gordon-Darby_New_Hampshire/newhampshire.htm#Geninfo

That said, it depends heavily on the shops themselves. some shitty shops will try to use the inspection as a way of holding you hostage to repairs or overly marked up parts.

I've had a shop try to tell me I needed new wipers or else I would fail. Thankfully, I had kept the receipt for the wipers which were relatively new, in the glovebox and was able to politely tell them to go fuck themselves and that they needed to recheck the wipers as they are in good condition. They wanted close to $30 for a wiper that in all likelihood cost them $2 or less.

PS - If you are buying auto parts at an auto parts store and don't need the parts the same day, Rock Auto absolutely KILLS it with prices pretty much across the board.
 
if a safety system is not working as intended... ie. abs. It wont pass safety inspection.

atleast for us here.

 
So I brought my car to the dealer today, no warning lights. Mysteriously while they were working on it they called me and said two engine lights were on. The trac control and engine. Now I know that replacing my stock airbox with a custom made RAM air might cause the computer to think something is wrong, but the TC? Sounds fishy. They were replacing my front bushings and strut towers as well as front brakes and rotors. I feel like they may have fucked something up and just used the "it was on when we got it" excuse. Any thoughts? It was certainly not on at any time before I brought it in...
 
1990 civic

runs alright 1 - 4 gear under light throttle. squeeks under heavier throttle, with little power gain.

5th gear can only got up to 120km/h. if i press pass hmm %10 throttle in 5th for an extended period ( 5 mins ish ) ( or if i have been heavy on throttle 1 - 4 ) car begins to backfire/misfire ( not sure ) and if i stay on the throttle it repeats every second or so. sounds like a hollow sound almost.

i have to downshift to 4th, if i give medium throttle same bog.

in neutral rpms drop down to 300, engine shakes pretty violently. eventually after sitting in neutral and tapping the gas, rpms will get back to 600 and its driveable.

after it cools down for half hour, drives normal again idles at 800.

my thoughts : MAP sensor ( manifold absolute pressure )

clogged cat converter? ( my 02 sensor, TPS sensor are the only CEL codes ive ever had and i replaced them.)

new plugs wires, aftermarket distributer and valve/spark gaskets
 
When honing a cylinder, (4 wheeler, 200cc bored to 250) can there be any vertical scratches, residue from a melted piston? Im too poor to buy a new cylinder or have this one bored again. I just want it to run enough to drive it on a trip in two weeks. Hone away for hours?
 
should never have used a big bore kit!

that really weakens the engine, would have been better off doing cams, high comp piston, port and polish. much more reliable and safer.
 
i bought it with a fresh kit, then left it at a buddy's house until he could bring it out to ND for me, then his idiot little brothers decided they could ride it, and blew it up.

i'm not a fan of boring, i'd rather go the route you mentioned, but again, i have no chingching at the moment... might have to use the CREDIT CARD FREE MONEYYYYY

and taco dog... 10/10 hahaha
 
depends on the engine but generally it is a pretty easy job if you have some basic tools and mechanical knowledge.

there are some good videos on you tube about it, could probably even find one for your make and model.
 
This is the best way to learn, head gaskets usually aren't a terribly difficult job. If you're not confident you could take a picture every time you take something off, and stab your bolts into cardboard in consecutive groups, as you take them off, for easy reassembly
 
I have a question that may be stupid but since I am not mechanically inclined I will ask somebody that is! I have an automatic 09 impreza and when I accelerate quicker than normal I hear a weird groaning noise. I believe it starts in 3rd gear but it only lasts for a gear because when it shifts up or down the noise stops. The groan is deeper than what my car sounds like in other gears. Any ideas?
 
I have a question that may be stupid but since I am not mechanically inclined I will ask somebody that is! I have an automatic 09 impreza and when I accelerate quicker than normal I hear a weird groaning noise. I believe it starts in 3rd gear but it only lasts for a gear because when it shifts up or down the noise stops. The groan is deeper than what my car sounds like in other gears. Any ideas?
 
Since I know you're interested, if not I will cme over there and do disgusting things, I ended up buying a whole new top end, found a good deal on ebay, .2 bored over not baaaaaad
 
yeah, that sounds like it could be either of those things. If you cant tell if the exhaust is plugged hook a vac gauge to the intake and get some vac readings, that should nail it down for you.
 
its hard to tell without knowing the fault code, but there wheel speed sensor that could have got fucked up in their install process. Do you have a fault code number/description?
 
im not sure on atv's but any imperfection on the cylinder walls of any 4 stroke engine will cause hot spots and possibly detonation.
 
Take your wheels in to get balanced. Often a shaking at a specific speed is because one or more of your wheels is missing a couple weights. Try that first, and if it still shakes, you may have bent/damaged something a little more major.
 
My "check engine light" is on. I've checked all the fluids and everything is normal, and the engine seems to be running fine.
 
Check engine signifies that a sensor detected something irregular. First step is having the code read so that you know why the fault occurred. Many auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free.

It could be something as benign as a loose gas cap, right down to something more serious such as a sensor failing. Getting the code scanned to determine the cause is step number one though.
 
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