Ask a mechanic.

Okay, my car is going into the shop tomorrow. It's an '02 Camry with the 4 cyl. engine. It doesn't start when warm (running temperature to anywhere that isn't room temp.). It does start when it's cold. It doesn't turn over like usual, but it turns over pretty quick. It almost feels like the way it would start after sitting outside after a long really cold night.
 
Well, I don't believe it's the fuel pump because when I attempt to start it it sounds like there's a pump. It's a slight humming sound. Like I said, it only starts when cold, which makes no sense, and runs like a dream when it's running.
 
bump. As for the last 2 people to post in this thread. Welcome to VW coils. Been complete shit for 15 years+. I cant even count how many coils i have replaced.
 
Thats the tough one. Without hearing the crank its hard to say. Next time its not starting if you are somewhat ok with doing some basic checks on the car, check for spark by pulling one of your spark plug wires and putting a screwdriver with a rubber handle on it into the wire where the spark plug would normally sit, and hold the metal part of the screw driver close to something metal on your engine and watch for some arcing when you have a friend turn over the engine.

Pull a fuel line from the "feed" side of the fuel rail and find a container to hold some gas ( empty pop can will do) and get a friend to crank that puppy over and watch for how much fuel is coming out.

Its not unheard of for car starters to get heat soaked from a hot engine bay and not want to start afterwards after being warmed up. Will the car crank? There is only a handful of reason why a car should have an "odd" sounding crank.
 
easy to check fuel pumps from the cold position. hop in your car and turn off all noise producing devices and the radio. And turn your key into the "on" position but do not crank. You should be able to hear a hum or what sounds like an old giant wooden door opening, thats your fuel pump in action. This also doesnt mean much in a sense that the pump may not be producing enough pressure to properly disperse fuel through your rail/ injectors.

 
03 a4. For the past few years I have had ignition coils die on me every few months or so. I was told by the previous owner he had them all replaced when audi did a recall but all but one of those has died on me. They're cheap enough and easy for me to replace but they've just been a nuissance. Any input as to why they die? Is there another part that I should replace tht would stop them from dying?
 
i need to get an old Jeep CJ7 through the vehicle control, i've had it adjusted by myself and my car dealer but we can't get the CO2 level in the exhaust below the maximum allowed value, it's right on the limit of what's tolerated so it's a bit of a hit/miss scenario...

i've heard stories of unplugging a sparkplug cable when going through the checkup, will this work to temporarily lower the CO2 concentration in my exhaust ? and will it damage my engine ? its going to run 10minutes max with 1/6 cylinders unplugged...
 
I have a blown rear strut, can I just keep driving with it? I can feel it a little bit when I go over certain things, and it does make a noise from time to time, but I don't notice it at all on smooth roads. Optimally, I know it should be fixed, but it's expensive, and it's hard to justify the cost.

Bottom line: is it dangerous?
 
you can shell out some extra cash for heavy duty coils. they cost 2-3 times as much as VW coils but most likely will last longer.

The way the ignition coil is contstructed is 2 sets of wire windings that will induce a large spike in voltage as they hop from one set of windings to the other. They can produce retarded voltage with very low amperage. Were talking up to 10k volts. The main thing that kills coils is internal heat on these thin windings and they go open circuit or dont hold the electric current long enough to create a large enough voltage spark to engage the spark plug.

There is really nothing you can do besides making sure you use OEM spark plugs at all times, as the coils were designed for these plugs.

VW/AUDI group produce shit spark plugs. Been countless recalls and revisions of these plugs already... the prefix on the end of the part number is already been revised up to the letter J to give you an idea.
 
It may reduce CO2 emission as its a by product of combustion but your slapping unburnt fuel down your exhaust at that point which will hike up CO, and HC emissions and fail you. And if your car cannot produce a "readiness code" that will fail it emissions wise. "readiness code" is a produce that tests every sensor related to emissions and engine management on the car. If you have a check engine light, which you will sure have from a misfire.... that is an instant fail in canada as well.

Have you tried different octane ratings of fuel? Try to find a nitrogen enriched gas and give that a shot aswell since its an inherit molecule, it will saturate your readings perhaps.... but dont quote me on that.

 
The garage for the night, overnight it makes 2-4 pools the size of quarters. I have topped it up to the correct amount every week. Just wondering where this could be possibly leaking from? Maybe a bad hose?
 
ideally, its not safe. its more of a personal judgement call on something like this. You can put yourself in danger or other in your car or innocent bystanders. I wouldnt suggest you fix it, even if you put 20 bucks a way a pay cheque to budget to fix it. Honestly replacing most rear struts is pretty easy and doable with hardly any shop equipment but i can understand why someone could feel uncomfortable doing it as if it done wrong, it can kill you.

Make 100 percent certain it is indeed your strut that is leaking and not something like a sway bar link that is clunking. Perhaps its a rear axle bushing as well. Struts/shocks now a days are boderline a lifetime part of the car now. I very rarely have to replace struts, its mostly issues with springs or other components on the suspension.

Be careful out there, if something were to brake while driving you could be rolled over in a ditch on the highway or even worse plowing into a busy sidewalk of people.
 
way to hard to say without seeing the car in person. Could be a hundred different things. Sorry i cant really offer you much more insight, id love to be able to help you out.

Good luck dude.
 
when I jack up my car and grab the front strut mounts and start to wiggle it around with my hand, the wheel moves around accordingly... same with the front wheels, if I grab them and wiggle them around, the front struts/strut mounts move around as well.

When the car isn't jacked up, obviously there isn't any play from the weight of the car sitting on the struts. This happens on both sides in the front.

Is this normal?

I own an 89 vw gti if it makes a difference.

 
not entirely what your trying to say. but when a car is jacked up, the sturt mounts go loose so its normal if they have a bit of play. The best way to check strut mounts/bearings is have your car stationary on the ground have a friend sit in the car and turn the steering wheel lock to lock while you have your hand under the fender grabbing on the spring while he is turning. If the struts/bearings are shot, they will vibrate in a jerky motion which transfers into the spring which can be felt with your hand resting on the spring.

hope that helps you.
 
How would the strut affect braking? I have braked very hard plenty of times and there was absolutely no loss of control, and the cornering and handling seems to be alright overall unless I hit bumps a certain way at a highway speed.

I know it's the strut because the damping oil (?) is coating the strut and collecting grime.

My Dad might be able to pay for a new, or maybe used strut and I can take it over to my buddies house because he has a lift and a spring compressor, so I might do that sometime in the future.

Thanks for the help though, and I hope you have feedback on this last post.
 
what if the strut completely fails. Its just a shit situation, If you can hear the strut bottoming out on its strokes, you need to replace it. If its just sweating fluid out, let it buck until you have the cash to fix it.
 
It can increase braking distance and lessen vehicle control while braking in turns.

The strut acts to maintain as even contact pressure on the ground as possible at all times. A completely blown strut will not properly dampen the forces.

Under conservative driving, you are unlikely to have an issue, but it can pose a safety issue in emergency handling situations, or if you take a turn near the car's handling limits.

I had a car that had blown rear struts, and before I replaced them I could get the back tires to leave the ground if I braked hard enough. This could not be replicated once the struts were replaced.
 
Cool thread idea.

I'm also a mechanic. I have a degree in Auto Body but once I got to the real world decided I like mechanical work a lot better. Only been in the profession for just less than a year but I've done everything from simple oil changes to diagnosing misfires, etc.

I work on a lot of GM, Ford, Honda, Nissan, and Kia/Hyundai products. Around here that is pretty much the norm for cars. I work in a small independant shop that has 2 mechanical bays and a 5 bay body shop.

My forte if you will is Kia's and Hyundai's as I own an 06 Kia Spectra. I've lowered it over 5" on coilovers and done a lot of other little things.
 
Hey dude. So I've got an '02 Mazda Protege 5. My current issue is something that messes up my RPMs. Basically whenever I'm not pushing the gas, it idles super low. Like if I'm at an intersection waiting for a light, the RPMs will be at around 300-400, sometimes lower. In Park, it idles super low as well. Or it fluctuates up and down, then settles somewhere around 400. It's loud/clunky/rumbles a lot when it idles. Occasionally, it will actually shut off at an intersection, with the battery and oil light coming on. I can always start again, just throw it in neutral and I'm good to go. However, i'd really like to make it one drive without worrying about whether its gonna die on me in stop-and-go traffic. Any insight would be appreciated :)
 
Alright, here is where I would start.

Is the check engine light on? If so, head to a parts store (I know Advanced Auto around here will do this) and ask for them to hook it to a computer to see what the code is. Make sure you write it down if there is any.

If there is any either shoot me a PM of what it is or even google "02 Mazda Pretege 5 code (whatever it is)" and see what you come up with.

Also, how many miles are on the car? How well have you maintained it?

If its an '02 and has over 100k miles on it I am already leaning towards spark plugs and wires. Bad spark plugs and wires can lead to a misfire that can make a vehicle idle lower than normal, and occasionally will go away as the RPM increases (I've seen this a few times, but there are a lot of other variables that play into this). Since you said its also loud/clunky/rumbly at idle I'm really leaning towards this as the first thing to check.

There are a few other things it could be, but this is starting with the basics. Feel free to message me the code if/when you do get it looked at. I'm more than happy to help.
 
thanks man! yeah the check engine light is on, the only reason i thought to ignore it was because the last time i was at a mechanic he said it was a faulty sensor and it wasn't a big deal. maybe that is no longer the case. the car is fairly well maintained, oil changes on time, etc.

it's got 190K kms so about 118K miles.

I'll get the engine light looked into and come back with what i found!
 
this situation cannot be figured out yet without a DTC code. Its like a total shot in the dark. It could be so many different things that can cause a low idle/misfires so when you find your dtc code, post it in the thread and we can figure it out most likely. When its something with a issue that is easy to reproduce, most of the time its very easy to fix. plugs, coilpack, wires, maf/map, o2 sensors, cat convert, etc etc all can effect the running of a car similar to how you have described.
 
not nearly as much pleasure as i get from your horrible skier sketch in your profile pictures. Do you go to art school? Such great line work.
 
(more just curious than anything else. I used to have a 1994 Mitsubishi pajero with a 4 cylinder 3.5 liter turbo diesel engine. I'm living in a developing country as well (quality of the diesel/gas is shit; mostly comes from venezuela). anyway I took it to a local mechanic down the road from me who said he would flush the engine to get more power (this is after i had a really bad oil leak and he repaired a broken head gasket). Also, the car had a turbo timer which I had turned off. the mechanic says that the turbo timer automatically turned on when he was flushing the engine and the car revved to 10,000 rpm (which i guess is very bad for a turbo diesel truck). next thing I know the engine block has multiple cracks, head blown, piston rings destroyed, etc. so my question is....could the turbo timer kicking in and revving so high on a turbo diesel cause so much damage or was it the engine flush/moronic mechanic?

 
a turbo timer will not cause a engine run away. sounds like he was fucking around and the engine ran away on him. diesels are supposed to have a valve in place of a throttle ( diesel does not have a throttle ). its to prevent the engine running away like it did to you. If he had a rag/something blocking this valve while its running, it leads to your problem. You could also have a problem with your shut off valve. all it does is cover the intake so no air is allowed into the motor to feed the run away condition.
 
hey i have a 2004 1.8t gti, the other day i was driving around my neighborhood and i stopped to talk to my neighbor when after maybe 10 minutes of idling my car started smoking so i quickly killed the engine and as i got out of the car i could see anti freeze leaking out beneath it.

when i popped the hood smoke was coming from the back right corner(facing the engine) aat the end of the block and somewhat in between it and the airbox, but lower down. I could see some fluid spraying and it was probable the antifreeze. the spraying and smoking soon stopped and when i got back in my car it started right up (after fearing it would explode haha) and the temp gauge light or whatever it is came on but the temperature level gauge was right in the middle and i was able to drive it home fine.



I popped the hood and let it cool down and opened up what i think is where the antifreeze goes, it had the same thermometer looking symbol as the light on my dash. and it looked basically empty.



So is it likely that im going to have to replace the hose or could it just be the clamp, and i bought more anti freeze so should i put it in and see what happens or what?? thanks for the help!
 
if i understand what youre saying... thats the location of the coolant temp sensor/coolant flange on your engine. Fairly common failure and very easy to fix but VW can be tricky to do a full coolant drain and refill due to airlocks in coolant system. At work, we have a tool that sucks all the coolant out of the car with an airline hookup and pulls a -30 vac which we will let sit for a few mins after to ensure there is no other large leaks ( pressure gauge will creep if there is any other leaks going on ). You can fill up your car without this tool, its just time consuming. The repair itself for that sensor/flange is very simple. Just have to pull the airbox out of the car and its 3 screws that hold the flange on. You need some hose clamp remover pliers which can be bought at most any store and a socket set. When you make a repair to this flange its important to replace the o rings for the flange ( there is 2 ) and most of the time at work we will replace the temp sensor with it because its part of the flange.

Before you get all gung ho and start buying parts, maybe snap a picture of what was leaking for me if you want me to tell you the deal. I can give you all the torque specs of the bolts and such if you need as well. Very simple repair and if you make it yourself you will save yourself 1.2 hours of labor costs.

here is some hose clamp pliers for your viewing pleasure.

CorbinClampPliers.jpg


Let me know if you have any other questions my young apprentice

well-done-my-young-apprentice.jpg
 
also, do not drive the car with no coolant or if the temp gauge starts to rise... unless you want to purchase a new engine. Get that shit fixed first. If you have no coolant left in your coolant tank, you got yourself a leak... do not ignore or it will leave you stranded. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER COOLANT THAN OEM VW COOLANT, shit will rot your hoses/heater core away.

Carry on.
 
yeah i think the consensus is its the flange, posted on vortex and got that answer also. I was given a site to buy the part off of so i think im all set now but ill probably have a friend of my stepdads install it cause he owns a shop knows about volkswagen and said hed do it all cheap
 
do it yourself man, its a good part to learn to turn wrenches on and it will give you a great feeling when you fix your own car. Its honestly 2 5mm allen key bolts that hold your airbox on, 3 10mm bolts that hold the flange on. Pop that puppy off, catch the coolant in a bucket under the engine as it falls. Spray the new seal with some silicone spray, install the flange again and you are now a grease monkey. Keep the cap off your coolant tank, poor your PINK VW COOLANT into the tank, start car with cap off, and keep adding coolant as your car heats up. If you are scared i can give you some screen shots off my OEM VW repair manual.

It will be worth it to turn your own wrenches, trust me.
 
I have a 1997 Ford Ranger and have been having problems with my heater/AC. It only blows cool air when it is on max AC and on any other setting it blows hot air and cannot be adjusted. What do you think the problem is?
 
not 100 percent sure, but atleast 99.9 percent sure it will work. Get the seals for the coolant flange, and the coolant temp sensor and the little clip that holds the sensor in. You might lose it during removal, and you dont want to have your car stranded for a little plastic clip that costs a buck.
 
i have an '03 jetta and a few months ago i had to replace the steering rack since it was unable to pump power steering fluid. i opted for a used rack since it was $800 cheaper without knowing how long it would last since it's used and could give out at any time

now when i'm moving slowly and braking i hear a creaking in the front end of the car. it doesn't seem to have to do with the brakes since i've tested that a few times and it's different from the humming and creaking that brake rotors sometimes give off, but more of a detachment or crack somewhere. when the old steering rack was shot it made those noises while turning the wheel, but this has only to do with braking and it tends to be magnified when i have the a/c on strangely enough
 
AC is tricky. It could be caused by a low refridge in the circuit, but it can be many other issues. If it at some point gets cold, you can normally eliminate the ac compressor because it is still compressing. Normally when a car comes on my hoist for a AC system fault, I use my scan tool to check for compressor OFF codes ( a number value that normally will point you in a direction of fault ) but being so far away from your truck makes it tough to make a call.

there is many things that can fuck with a AC system, and honestly its tough to work on that system yourself because you need a machine to refill the circuit and check pressures. The only thing you can really check yourself is your airbox ( the giant box behind your dash that your vents come from ) for the flap operation ( the temp in that box is control through a series of flaps inside the airbox that direct hot or cold air and mix it to a certain temp ). Put your ear up close the firewall of your car and start dicking around with your settings for air flow and air temp and listen carefully and if you can hear the flaps in operation when your fuck with the dials at the same time. That is a very basic idea of they are atleast functioning in the first place, it wont tell you if they are directing the flow properly.

Otherwise sadly you will have to shell out some cash to get it looked at. Sorry dude, i feel bad i couldnt really help you on this one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top