Accessories for T2I

yes I would use it primarily for that, but who knows what i'll end up using it for...

I've never used a follow focus before, but it looks like a good combination with the glidecam
 
not really......I'd imagine you would just use a wide angle lens and open it up for the most depth of field possible instead of fine tuning the focus. You won't be operating the follow focus on the fly, and I doubt you can always keep the skier a set distance from your lens.
 
Once you balance your glidecam, you can't really touch the camera. This includes touching the follow focus. The follow focus will be great if you are making lots of artsy films that use DOF. DOF isn't used too much in skiing and not at ALL with a glidecam.
 
Ah, you beat me to it. Also, the t2i isn't hard to find if your in a big city. Go downtown and check out all the small camera stores. I'm sure you can find one.
 
well if the glidecam supposedly isnt good. how would you ever get smooth followcam shots with a hdslr while skiing? very
 
What lenses do you have in mind?

After my research the new sigma (17-50) that is being released seems like the optimal choice. It has a fixed aperture, and has optical stabilization which seems necessary for video.

The tamron equivalent is also another lens I am considering, although I don't know that much about tamron in general, meanwhile my brother loves his Sigma macro lens...
 
haha I do, but I don't wana sell it yet =/

also, I have been searching for the past like 3 hours for a legitimate t2i....all I have been finding are scam sites, import models and japanese models. I personally am just looking for a t2i body, but I found this incase anyone is looking for the kit...it looks like it is in stock here:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Canon+-+EOS+Rebel+T2i+18.0-Megapixel+Digital+SLR+Camera+-+Black/9778635.p?skuId=9778635&IcsCsid=2-39-726-25-5-43891-43892-25-726-440-25-726-1726-0-1&id=1218171770784
 
I have it preordered on adorama right now. If it pops up anywhere else, I'll cancel that and snap it up there. I just want to have a solid chance of getting one soon.
 
did you buy one? i found a place that is getting them in tomorrow. im not telling anyone where they are until i get mine! muahahaha
 
Bump. What would I get better use out of? A 28mm prime or 50mm? I am leaning towards the 28 because wide angles are sick for skiing.
 
If you were to get one I'd say the 28mm because of the 1.6x crop factor. But I'd try to get both if you can. I mean the Canon 50mm F1.8 is $100 brand new and an awesome lens for the price. Then the Canon 28mm F2.8 is under $250 brand new. So I'm sure you could find uses for both and two good lenses for under $400 is amazing.
 
Damn, that looks real nice, if i had a 7d id want that rig for sure. Half of the shittyness of a HDDSLR is not being able to carry it around like a normal camera, shoulder mount + grips = run and gun with a wide angle (high aperture and infinite focus for sure) and then a handle for easy carrying/fuck around run and gun shots. Pretty solid rig for skiing id say.
 
looks cheaper than some others, i would go with the d/focus personally but they are prob about the same.
 
image stabilizers arent necessary at all. I have a few lenses that have them and i always make sure they are off (the stabilizers make lots of noise that the camera picks up). Also, Im not sure why anyone would want a fixed aperture. That would give you only one DOF option, and im assuming its close to infinite. im not sure what the price of that lens is, but i would look into the 17-40L f4 from canon (or the 16-35 f2.8 if you have the cash) for a lens that is near the sigmas length.
also, YOU DONT HAVE TO BUY NEW LENSES or EOS MOUNT.
do some research. buy some nice old film glass. ebay has every adapter you could possibly imagine for under $10. My favorite lens on my 7d right now is a pentax 50mm from the 60's... retarded bokeh and an amazingly smooth focus ring.
ALSOanyone that has the money for a 7d, but is coping out and buying a 2ti "because its the same" needs to grow a pair and do the right thing. You all ski. why wouldnt you want a near waterproof body if you can afford it. ive had a pile of snow on top of my 7d 3 inches high and she kept chugging, no issues. also, have fun with the overheating problems you guys are going to have on your long days with the t2i.
Also, the duel processors in the 7d is going to allow for better upgrades in the future (im hearing rumors of 96 or 120P... which would be retarded) that the t2i doesnt have the capabilities for.
 
Exactly what you said,

"If you can afford it". I would've loved going with the 7D, but because of my situation, the T2i is the next best thing.
 
this is completely understandable. But if you have the money, buy the 7d. It might take you longer to complete your set up (shouldnt be that much longer), but the 7d is definitely worth the extra money in the long run (and the short run for that matter).
 
LOLOLOLOLO both have overheating problems, but most of us primarily shoot skiing, its not that big of a deal
 
ok dick.
t2is are reporting lots of overheating problems where the 7ds only overheat in fairly extreme situations. they have one processor doing the work of the 2 that the 7d has. and mainly, the 7d's magnesium body acts as a large heat-sink, which helps disperse lots of the heat. The t2is plastic body does a terrible job getting rid of the heat.
Im offering information that ive done extensive research on. Take it or leave it. My main point still stands, if you have the money for the 7d, dont make excuses on why the t2i is still a better choice.
 
I hope you know that a fixed aperture lens only means that maximum aperture is fixed. Its not just one aperture option. Cheaper zoom lenses tend to have a higher maximum aperture at the shortest focal length, and the maximum aperture gets smaller towards the longer end of the lens. A fixed aperture lens means that the maximum (lowest number) aperture is the same throughout the zoom range.
Hope this helps clear things up a little.

-Kyle
 
never realized thats what was meant by "fixed aperture." always just referred to anything that changed fstops at different focal lengths as "shitty"... was thinking about it like fixed focus.

i just dont know why anyone would wait for a sigma lens. there are so many lenses out there with the same focal range as that that would undoubtably be better choices.
 
From my experience Sigma lenses have a few great things about them:
1. Build quality: The Sigma lenses have great build quality, Very solid, not a lot of plastic on the lens, and has nice "heft".2. Price: Sigma lenses are priced cheaper than Canons and on some Sigma lenses the quality beats the canon equivalent for a cheaper price. 3. This particular lens that the OP is interested in has a new type of glass that has never been used before that is supposed to perform equal to flourite glass which is used in Canon L lenses.
The major downside of Sigma lenses is that they often have manufacturing defects. eg: focus shift.I happened to be lucky and my Sigma lens is razor sharp and has no focus shift.

-Kyle
 

Heres a link that explains focus shift: http://diglloyd.com/articles/Focus/FocusShift.htmlHeres a survey I found that shows the rate of getting a good lens vs. a manufacturing defect.http://www.lensplay.com/lenses/lens_defect_results.phpCanon lenses - 12490 with 944 defectsThe probability of getting a good lens is 92 %
The probability of getting 5 good Canon lenses in a row is 67 %Sigma lenses - 2792 with 619 defects
The probability of getting a good lens is 78 %
The probability of getting 5 good Sigma lenses in a row is 29 %Tamron lenses - 1388 with 209 defects
The probability of getting a good lens is 85 %
The probability of getting 5 good Tamron lenses in a row is 44 %Tokina lenses - 463 with 74 defects
The probability of getting a good lens is 84 %
The probability of getting 5 good Tokina lenses in a row is 42 %Nikon lenses - 2273 with 189 defects
The probability of getting a good lens is 92 %
The probability of getting 5 good Nikon lenses in a row is 65 %Pentax lenses - 1420 with 97 defects
The probability of getting a good lens is 93 %
The probability of getting 5 good Pentax lenses in a row is 70 %Minolta/Konica/Sony lenses - 633 with 61 defects
The probability of getting a good lens is 90 %
The probability of getting 5 good Minolta/Sony lenses in a row is 60 %Other lenses - 897 with 94 defects
The probability of getting a good lens is 90 %
The probability of getting 5 good Other lenses in a row is 57 %

I hope this helpsKyle
 
In case anyone is interested, I filmed this today with my t2i, glidecam, and my brother's sigma 70mm DG macro lens. I did a little color correction with Magic Bullet looks and shot it in 720 60p

Enjoy!

t2i Test Outdoors from Reed Rosenbluth on Vimeo.
 
Looked pretty good. I would probably shoot at a higher aperture when using the glidecam because you can't focus once it is balanced. That would help when you had some shots of something in focus, but they moved away to something else and it was out of focus. And how did you find balancing the camera? I heard it takes a while to get used to.
 
^Yes, I agree about the higher aperture... It was somewhat tough using that specific lens because it is kind of long (70mm) for what I was shooting. But until my 17-50mm sigma comes, I'm stuck using my brother's macro and telephoto lenses.

Balancing the glidecam took about 20 minutes to get perfect, (i have the hd 1000), It was somewhat tricky, but now that i've done it once, I feel like I could do it again a lot quicker. It really is a great device, especially because shooting handheld with a dslr is pretty tough to get smooth.
 
Lololololol Paul has a perfect point and your just retarded.
You need to gtfo of all HDSLR discussions cuz you just postwhore and have no idea what your talking about
 
You've obviously never talked to him for an extended period of time about HDSLRs. Sure, the t2i overheats faster then the 7d, but he stated they both have overheating problems. He also mentioned that they don't overheat in the cold and we just so happen to be on a skiing website. He pretty much taught me everything I know about HDSLRs and really knows his shit so don't call them out unless you know what your talking about.
 
If he "knows his shit" so much he wouldn't be making dumb comments like that for just the purpose of making a post
Let's see some edits from him that match "The Re-Up" and other amazing edits from Paul B
 
^I'm sorry, but why are you making such a big deal about this, all he said was that the 7d has overheating problems too, it's not like he was bashing paul's edits (which are great btw) or something. Just because Paul makes sick edits doesn't necessarily mean that he knows more about HDSLRs...
 
Not what I'm meaning at all but I'll drop it, sorry for straying away from the topic of the thread.
To go back to the topic of IS on lenses, I would save the cash and get one without. You have a glidecam so that allready does the stabilization. I'm not entirely sure but I think turning IS on when your using stabilization allready, it shakes more. Just like using IS while using a tripod. I assume you will be shooting wide a lot so just the glidecam alone will be perfect. No need to wait for IS.
 
I think I'm gonna buy that sigma anyways, IS or not... It looks like an awesome lens, suited almost perfectly for what I want to use it for...
 
im not saying i know more than the next person, but i am very familiar with HDSLRs and SLRs. I came straight from shooting pure photography my whole life and just started making ski edits this year. Shooting video with SLRs is not an easy task, on top of having a strong knowledge of basic filming skills, you need to know how to use your equipment to a T or you will not get quality footage.
In my opinion, its dumb to say that just because its cold out, that neither camera will overheat. Granted the cold air helps it, while ive been shooting with my 7d, and i let snow pile on the camera, i do notice that it melts the snow at a fairly fast rate (which will pose another problem for the t2i.. get those bags ready). these cameras still get hot, no matter what conditions youre shooting in. and the bottom line is, in ANY situation where overheating could be a problem, the t2i will fail CONSIDERABLY faster than the 7d.
and if youre so confident that "because were skiing" its not going to overheat, why dont you use that same logic and apply it to the waterproofing available from the 7d. my camera is probably wet more than it is dry (follow cams, weather, dropping it). im fairly sure if i had the t2i over the past 3 months, that it would have already failed me multiple times.
THIS IS MY OPINION
 
^I agree with you completely that the 7d easily outperforms the t2i. And it should, seeing that the t2i is a fraction of its price. Hell, I would have gotten a 7d if I had the money for it, but for my purposes the t2i will suffice. Even if mine breaks I could replace it and have spent only around the price of one 7d.

I agree that it is dumb to say that because it is cold out, that neither camera will overheat, i've used electronics in the cold plenty of times where they have gotten too hot. And I'm sure your right that the t2i will fail a larger percentage of the time than the 7d will, but again, for my filming purposes, and that is living in NY where I only get to film skiing around 4-5 times a year, the t2i is perfect for my needs as a filmer. That being said, this summer I will be having the opportunity to spend two weeks skiing in Argentina at SASS, and am extremely excited to film the whole thing with my new t2i!!!!!!!

And I wasn't at all trying to say that you don't know that much about HDSLRs, sorry if it sounded that wat. You probably know a lot more than me, I was just giving an example. I love your edits btw, The Re-Up is one of my favorites of the year!

 
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