Your Best Photography
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Stuuuuuuuuuu
Member
I've been trying some wildlife photography during this virus situation. Pretty stoked on this one
Jackie_Treehorn
New member
A couple from the desert
AndrewGravesSV
Active member
DSC00713 by AndrewGraves, on Flickr
DSC00664 by AndrewGraves, on Flickr
DSC00722 by AndrewGraves, on Flickr
DSC00386 by AndrewGraves, on Flickr4 faves from backpacking in Idaho
Stuuuuuuuuuu
Member
Just moved to Kelowna and there’s a ton of deer in the woods behind my place
gravel
Active member
14171943:Stuuuuuuuuuu said:
nice stuff, you should think about your compositions; notice how each photo the deer's head is the dead center of the frame and there is a bunch of negative space above and to the side.
similar advice when framing photos, not a requirement for every shot, of course, but in general - always think about exactly the information/the story you want to capture with a picture and shoot only as much of those elements as you need to explain the image but nothing too much more that will turn it into dead/negative space. organize those elements in whatever way you can that the image is visually balanced.
patagonialuke
Active member
I continue to have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to landscapes. Would welcome any critique / feedback on this one. I like it for the most part when it's fully blown up, but don't find it all that inspiring shrunk down. Was also debating whether the flare helped, in terms of kinda mirroring the shadow line, or just looks distracting.
Hectoriverson
New member
patagonialuke
Active member
14171992:corona said:
sweet, thanks. And no, that flare was natural (shot a few w/ and w/o a hood, but didn't like the composition of the ones w/ the hood and w/o the flare). Might try to dial it back a bit in post. Really appreciate the feedback.
Stuuuuuuuuuu
Member
14171965:gravel said:
Thanks for the tips
gravel
Active member
14171976:patagonialuke said:
for big landscapes like this, think about balance and movement, which have a lot of overlap.
balance, is it composed in a way that the elements of the image complement each other spacially? are you including exactly the elements you want to describe the scene but not too much that it loses its focus? is there negative space that unbalances the photo? or maybe for some photos you want to intentionally unbalance the photo to emphasize one part.
movement, where is the viewer's eye going to snap first? what is the path that the eye might travel after they first look at it? can you work with different shapes and lines in your scene to create a "flow" to the image, giving it some movement, bringing it to life?
for this photo, maybe too much focus on the washed out sun glare part of the valley. the brightness of the roof in the foreground is a little distracting to the eye. there is good movement with the line of the shadow, but that movement doesn't really lead anywhere.
good stuff though. keep getting after it.
patagonialuke
Active member
14176917:gravel said:
Thanks so much, really appreciate it.
Stuuuuuuuuuu
Member
pretty stoked on the dark/light thing going on in this one. It was right at sunrise so the light was hitting above the cloud line but not below
swisssteeze
Member
14168519:ThaLorax said:
It sure is! A place i want to visit again for sure. The red is from light pollution (most likely from
cortina d'ampezzo). Though i must admit, that image was my first try working with an astro specific software and i might have overdone it a tad.
I slept in my tent right below that hut, that is precisely were the shot was taken.
swisssteeze
Member
Took a starsniff in 2017, i have a chronic addiction now.
People have been getting more critical of this cind of photography as it is easy to fake perfect compositions.
The position of the milky way in my images is not just combined in PS in a pleasing way. In all my astro images i take multiple sky and ground shots for stacking and combine them correctly using a reference frame i take at the start of my sessions.
Our galaxys core and rho ophiuchis jewels are my absolute favourite area in the night sky.
Details on the first image:
Tracked 50mm full frame
light frames: 75x 5min f4 iso400
dark frames: 50x 5min f4 iso400
flat frames : 50x
bias frames: 50x
Stacking in DSS
Removal of light pollution, star reduction and stretching in Pixinsight
Removal of chromatic abberation in Photoshop
Noise reduction with Topaz denoise AI
Total time spent on this one piece of work wise has most likely broken the day mark. Enjoy peeps
People have been getting more critical of this cind of photography as it is easy to fake perfect compositions.
The position of the milky way in my images is not just combined in PS in a pleasing way. In all my astro images i take multiple sky and ground shots for stacking and combine them correctly using a reference frame i take at the start of my sessions.
Our galaxys core and rho ophiuchis jewels are my absolute favourite area in the night sky.
Details on the first image:
Tracked 50mm full frame
light frames: 75x 5min f4 iso400
dark frames: 50x 5min f4 iso400
flat frames : 50x
bias frames: 50x
Stacking in DSS
Removal of light pollution, star reduction and stretching in Pixinsight
Removal of chromatic abberation in Photoshop
Noise reduction with Topaz denoise AI
Total time spent on this one piece of work wise has most likely broken the day mark. Enjoy peeps
swisssteeze
Member
14190031:corona said:
Thanks a lot!
The M31 image is actually my first try with a new lens and tracker i just got:
Body: Nikon d850
lens: Tamron 150-600mm g2 (@600mm f6.3)
Tracker: iOptron skyguider pro, with an extended counterweight bar and 2 weights on there.
All of that on my flimsy old tripod, really need a new one.
Exposure time was 1min each with a total of 30 exposure. You want to go to the point where the core of stars are just about to be overexposed but are not quite yet. Starcolour is what gives deepspace images that extra touch.
If you happen to own or are going to buy a startracker get the longest exposures times you can. No amount of stacked images can beat exposure lenght. Many nebulas and details just get lost in the noise, which they also did in this M31 shot.
Most videos and forums will tell you to "SHOOT WIDE OPEN". That does get you more light but also uses the most outer edges of the glass elements in your lens. In all cases (some very expensive exeptions) that will lead to chromatic aberration (purple/blue halos around stars) and your stars getting angel wings. To keep things looking even and realisitc stopping down you lens by one or two stops usually does the trick. At longer focal lenghts ( around 200mm above) those problems become less noticable. But at something like 14mm, lawd jesus those stars put their halloween costumes on.
Stuuuuuuuuuu
Member
Not my photo but my buddy took this of me. We were both pretty stoked on how it came out
swisssteeze
Member
The northern hemisphere sadly only sees the milky way core for a few months during summer. That is why i decided to modify a camera to capture more of the h-alpha emission nebula this winter. This is Cygns (top), Sadr Region (butterfly looking thingy) and the veil nebula (hiding in a cloud mid left). Ima freeze my ass off this winter
SuspiciousFish
Active member
One of my favorite shots back when I would hike around Park City with my 7D:
**This post was edited on Nov 30th 2020 at 11:52:36pm
**This post was edited on Nov 30th 2020 at 11:52:36pm
Money.mitch
Member
Adult swim vibes
swisssteeze
Member
First use of the 135mm