What do you guys want in ski gear that doesn't exist?

probably already been said but, a jacket that's actually waterproof enough to handle a full wet snow day like we get on the west coast w/o having to go with the trash bag strategy
 
I want a backpack with an empties pocket. Something plastic that seals, you can zip out of the bag to clean, so you won't get the last drops of beer in your bag.
 
14138765:bquick222 said:
So many people saying they want goggles that don't fog. Am I the only one that doesn't have this issue? The only time mine fog up is when I walk in the lodge.
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14138812:Mortbrokemyskis said:
I ski 100 plus days a year normally (not this year) and I’ve had my goggles fog once ever because I left them in my boot bag overnight with my wet gloves and face mask which is fully on me. What are these people doing with their goggles
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My goggles rarely fog. Quite a few reasons they have in the past.

1) If my Under Armour face mask nose section is under the frame. This allows hot air to be blown up into my goggles and create condensation. Interestingly, it doesn't do this if I wear a buff instead...

2) Cold pow days. Snow is dumping. Humidity is near 100%. Temps near zero or below. Combine that with snow dropping onto the top of my goggle vents blocking airflow. Hot and sweaty skin radiating heat and moisture. This all is a recipe for disaster for fogging.

3) Also affects #2 but many goggles are low profile and don't stick out from a helmet, so the vents that are necessary for ventilation to prevent fogging are mostly blocked.

4) Skied in the rain and this allowed water in between a break in the dual pane seal, and I got fog in between lenses which sucks.

5) If you make the mistake of redirecting hot air into your goggles when it's 0F outside, it instantly frosts over. If this happens during a run, you have either the choice to ski without goggles or sacrifice the antifog application and scrape off the frost from your inner lens. This can ruin its antifog properties.

6) Forgot to let them dry overnight and tried skiing with wet goggles.
 
It's a failure point in the boot. Take a look at my post history, I think the end of my season edit from last year has got a pic of my boots. At a certain point that hinge flexes and breaks rather than holding tight and locked out. I've gone through 5 pairs the last 2 seasons, finally bought some normal boots this year with no touring stuff and had Cast install pin holes in the toe. Best decision ever.

14138852:brogoldenhair said:
Explain further? can't tell if you're serious
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14138816:The.Fish said:
Un-crackable edges. As I get further into engineering in college, the more I cry because I realize it won't happen
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B-dog edgless was the first step. Nylon/carbon combo would be good I think. Just know they'll never be that sharp. Or some metal that has good thermal shock, but it's prlly too expensive.
 
14138931:elm. said:
B-dog edgless was the first step. Nylon/carbon combo would be good I think. Just know they'll never be that sharp. Or some metal that has good thermal shock, but it's prlly too expensive.
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Would UHMW edges be good? They'd slide amazing on rails but I'm not sure they would be able to hold an edge...
 
Realistic things: snow pants with a reinforced crotch and heels as those things get worn through so fast

goggles with interchangeable lenses that you can do quickly / easily but don’t cost a bomb

less realistic: would be sweet if you get goggles that had a sat Nav type feature with the piste map. So you could select on your phone that you want to go to a certain chair / the nearest black run / the park and your goggles would have arrows showing you where to go. Obvs this is more useful when going on a trip to a resort you’re less familiar with
 
14139026:FruitBootPro said:
Would UHMW edges be good? They'd slide amazing on rails but I'm not sure they would be able to hold an edge...
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That's probably what the b-dog is already made of. UHMW is base material. I think a higher modulus plastic could mimic steel edges. It'd be hard to sharpen, though
 
How about skis where you can change the flex of with a push of a button. Perhaps running a magnetic field through the material to cause the ski to stiffen/soften up? just a thought but its beyond my pay grade
 
14139074:Julius_Steezer said:
less realistic: would be sweet if you get goggles that had a sat Nav type feature with the piste map. So you could select on your phone that you want to go to a certain chair / the nearest black run / the park and your goggles would have arrows showing you where to go. Obvs this is more useful when going on a trip to a resort you’re less familiar with
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Also would be nice if they showed the speed needed to clear a jump perfectly but this is pretty unrealistic because speed changes so easily
 
14138714:Mortbrokemyskis said:
More long skis in general. It’s hard to find a 190 park ski that I want to ride I feel like most skis could use atleast another size. I am 6’5 and 200pounds though so I’m definitely bigger than most but a man can dream.
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Bruh you’re big but you’re not “I need a 210 ski” big.

granted it would look badass but I’m 5’11” and 180-185 is perfect for me. Can’t imagine going a whole foot bigger
 
14139403:AlmostCooler said:
Bruh you’re big but you’re not “I need a 210 ski” big.

granted it would look badass but I’m 5’11” and 180-185 is perfect for me. Can’t imagine going a whole foot bigger
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I'm 6'4, 210. I'm slender. I like to jump off of big things into cascade cement and also occasionally like to land switch into pow, so I don't want to mount my skis too far back from center. I rode 189 Hellebents for years (which are like 194ish true) and always wished they were just a bit longer.

It's a small market, but there's a market for tall guys who want to get sendy and also ski switch.

Or maybe I'm just looking at the wrong skis and the answer already exists out there. Any ideas gents?
 
14139416:DolanReloaded said:
A legitimately good padded hat.

obv a helmet will always be better but in soft conditions helmets arent really necessary.
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Lets start the debate Dolan, because these exist... and THEY WANT TO KILL YOU

christmas-tree-gettyimages-1072744106.jpg
 
14139403:AlmostCooler said:
Bruh you’re big but you’re not “I need a 210 ski” big.

granted it would look badass but I’m 5’11” and 180-185 is perfect for me. Can’t imagine going a whole foot bigger
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I didn’t say I need 210 just replied to a guy who said that. But you’re riding the longest length that most under 100 skis come in and you’re not even 6 feet. I’m a half foot taller than you I need longer skis than that. Also I grew up racing (193 gs skis) so I like long skis with lots of edge. But I also like a lot of rocker front and rear so I would love a 210 for some more effective edge and I’ve never skied on a ski and thought it was too long or hard to control.
 
14138872:Turd__Authority said:
My goggles rarely fog. Quite a few reasons they have in the past.

1) If my Under Armour face mask nose section is under the frame. This allows hot air to be blown up into my goggles and create condensation. Interestingly, it doesn't do this if I wear a buff instead...

2) Cold pow days. Snow is dumping. Humidity is near 100%. Temps near zero or below. Combine that with snow dropping onto the top of my goggle vents blocking airflow. Hot and sweaty skin radiating heat and moisture. This all is a recipe for disaster for fogging.

3) Also affects #2 but many goggles are low profile and don't stick out from a helmet, so the vents that are necessary for ventilation to prevent fogging are mostly blocked.

4) Skied in the rain and this allowed water in between a break in the dual pane seal, and I got fog in between lenses which sucks.

5) If you make the mistake of redirecting hot air into your goggles when it's 0F outside, it instantly frosts over. If this happens during a run, you have either the choice to ski without goggles or sacrifice the antifog application and scrape off the frost from your inner lens. This can ruin its antifog properties.

6) Forgot to let them dry overnight and tried skiing with wet goggles.
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Aight but #1 is super easy to fix that shouldn’t be an unsolvable problem unless you’re a super Jerry.

#2 I’ve never had problems when I’m skiing. If I lost my ski and I’m digging in pow for it for a while then yeah they fog but I’ve never had it happen while actually skiing there’s enough airflow when skiing I find to make it not fog.

#3 picking goggles and helmets that don’t work together isn’t an issue with goggles it’s an issue with your setup.

#4 I’ve skied in the rain a lot and never gotten water between my lenses. But tbh I usually use single lens bike goggles or glasses in rain.

#5 again this is more user error than goggle error.

#6 is also a user issue.

Not saying that it’s not an issue at all but goggles seem to work pretty well if you don’t do weird things with them and direct air around properly. To me it’s like saying your gloves suck because you didn’t dry them out and your hands are cold cause your gloves are wet. It’s not really a product issue it’s an issue with how you use the product.

**This post was edited on May 11th 2020 at 9:53:33pm
 
14139436:Mortbrokemyskis said:
I didn’t say I need 210 just replied to a guy who said that. But you’re riding the longest length that most under 100 skis come in and you’re not even 6 feet. I’m a half foot taller than you I need longer skis than that. Also I grew up racing (193 gs skis) so I like long skis with lots of edge. But I also like a lot of rocker front and rear so I would love a 210 for some more effective edge and I’ve never skied on a ski and thought it was too long or hard to control.
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If i was 6-5 i still wouldnt go taller than my height which is 195 cm
 
I rode a 196cm for most of 18/19 season and loved it. Down Skis makes a 206cm directional charger that's like 106mm underfoot and I want it so bad tbh

14139449:DolanReloaded said:
If i was 6-5 i still wouldnt go taller than my height which is 195 cm
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I'm 6'4 200, never felt like I needed more ski than my 194 d senders but they weren't center mounted. Doesn't faction make a candide 204?
 
14139413:Holte said:
I'm 6'4, 210. I'm slender. I like to jump off of big things into cascade cement and also occasionally like to land switch into pow, so I don't want to mount my skis too far back from center. I rode 189 Hellebents for years (which are like 194ish true) and always wished they were just a bit longer.

It's a small market, but there's a market for tall guys who want to get sendy and also ski switch.

Or maybe I'm just looking at the wrong skis and the answer already exists out there. Any ideas gents?
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Maybe try 194 4frnt Devastators? Heard those are burly asf. Just a thought idk.
 
14139564:amccahill93 said:
I rode a 196cm for most of 18/19 season and loved it. Down Skis makes a 206cm directional charger that's like 106mm underfoot and I want it so bad tbh
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Yo remember that Whitedot Ragnarok ski that someone recommended in another thread? Like literally the burliest ski in existence? Lol maybe try that too

**This post was edited on May 12th 2020 at 1:15:16pm
 
14139267:Dubey said:
How about skis where you can change the flex of with a push of a button. Perhaps running a magnetic field through the material to cause the ski to stiffen/soften up? just a thought but its beyond my pay grade
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Like Batman's cape?
 
14139564:amccahill93 said:
I rode a 196cm for most of 18/19 season and loved it. Down Skis makes a 206cm directional charger that's like 106mm underfoot and I want it so bad tbh
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964299.png

964300.png

The bottom one also has two sheets of metal.And they have a fair Price
 
14139449:DolanReloaded said:
If i was 6-5 i still wouldnt go taller than my height which is 195 cm
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5’10” and I ride 193 Mindbender 108 and 116s every day. Strengthen those chicken legs and ride a real ski.
 
A "din" setting for your boot that when hit allows the back of your boot to release, helping to prevent ACL injuries when landing back seat. Lange did something like this in the past, but it hasn't gained any type of traction despite the rigidity of modern boots being a major cause of ACL injuries.
 
14140691:BagOTricks said:
A "din" setting for your boot that when hit allows the back of your boot to release, helping to prevent ACL injuries when landing back seat. Lange did something like this in the past, but it hasn't gained any type of traction despite the rigidity of modern boots being a major cause of ACL injuries.
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Good idea, but I don't thing I would ever want to get launched out of my ski boots if I land a little too backseat. Your day would basically be over since your socks/liners would get all wet.
 
14138860:commencaldh said:
probably already been said but, a jacket that's actually waterproof enough to handle a full wet snow day like we get on the west coast w/o having to go with the trash bag strategy
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Money

14138931:elm. said:
B-dog edgless was the first step. Nylon/carbon combo would be good I think. Just know they'll never be that sharp. Or some metal that has good thermal shock, but it's prlly too expensive.
Click to expand...

woudnt carbon crack more then alluminum? atleast alluminum can bend a little bit

I want a facemask which doesnt get wet/freeze, and gloves which will actually stay over or under my jacket. A cheap simple helmet with a twist to tighten that doesnt come off with the ears would be nice too.

Transition lenses which change fast and are actually good in both low and high light be soooooo nice. Imagine going from a sunny side of the mountain to a shady part and being able to see just as well.
 
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