Waxing
- Thread starter ill_Bill
- Start date
Valind
Active member
Valind
Active member
Instructions for using Whacks Wax:
For Temperatures Below 40
degrees F: Wax normally using Whacks
For Temperatures Above 40
degrees F: Rub-on Whacks, Iron-on high-fluoro wax.
Waxing
Preparation and Supplies
Every snowboarder should
wax their board. Not only does waxing improve your board's speed and
control, but it also helps to keep the base from drying out. Even just
waxing once or twice a season can have a big impact on your riding.
You could just get
your shop to do it for you, but you don't get the same loving care as if you do
it yourself.
Before you wax, here's the
stuff you're definitely going to need:
[*]an iron
[*]a bar of Whacks
[*]a scraper
[*]a flat table
[/list]
Now here's the stuff you
really should have:
[*]a waxing iron (it has better temperature settings, the
temperature won't change while waxing, and it's made for waxing your
snowboard!!)
[*]Whacks Wax
[*]a scraper (try to buy a snowboard one, they are
usually bigger, so you take less strokes)
[*]tuning vices (makes everything a lot easier)
[*]a wax brush (or at least a scotch-brite pad) to
structure your base afterwards
[/list]
1. Set up your
board on the table/tuning vices. Preheat the iron.
2. Apply wax to
the base.
There’s two ways you can do this:
Drip method: touch part of
the wax to the iron, and let the drops of wax fall on your board. if you
space the drops about 1 inch apart from each other, you should have plenty of
wax on the board without using way too much
Crayon method: touch a
part of the wax to the iron, and once it melts, rub it onto the base.
Once you feel it getting hard to rub, melt it on the iron again
3. Iron the wax
onto the board. Just put the iron on the base of your board, and move it
around, re-melting and spreading the wax all over the base. If the wax
starts to smoke (at any point), turn the iron temperature down. It’s a
good idea to put your hand on the top sheet, and if you feel it start to get
warm, you should move the iron to a different place. Once it's all melted
and spread out:
4.
Wait. For at least
30 minutes, unless it’s dumping and you have no time to wait.
5. Scrape. With your scraper, make long
tip-to-tail motions until basically all of the visible wax is off the
board. There’s going to be lots of wax shavings, so do it in a place
that's easy to clean up.
6.
Structure. Using a wax brush (or a scotch-brite pad thingy, if you're lazy or
cheap) make tip to tail strokes. These little groves into the wax will
help your board go extra fast.
7. Go out and
ride. Your board is now waxed! Go to the hill and have some fun!
For Temperatures Below 40
degrees F: Wax normally using Whacks
For Temperatures Above 40
degrees F: Rub-on Whacks, Iron-on high-fluoro wax.
Waxing
Preparation and Supplies
Every snowboarder should
wax their board. Not only does waxing improve your board's speed and
control, but it also helps to keep the base from drying out. Even just
waxing once or twice a season can have a big impact on your riding.
You could just get
your shop to do it for you, but you don't get the same loving care as if you do
it yourself.
Before you wax, here's the
stuff you're definitely going to need:
[*]an iron
[*]a bar of Whacks
[*]a scraper
[*]a flat table
[/list]
Now here's the stuff you
really should have:
[*]a waxing iron (it has better temperature settings, the
temperature won't change while waxing, and it's made for waxing your
snowboard!!)
[*]Whacks Wax
[*]a scraper (try to buy a snowboard one, they are
usually bigger, so you take less strokes)
[*]tuning vices (makes everything a lot easier)
[*]a wax brush (or at least a scotch-brite pad) to
structure your base afterwards
[/list]
1. Set up your
board on the table/tuning vices. Preheat the iron.
2. Apply wax to
the base.
There’s two ways you can do this:
Drip method: touch part of
the wax to the iron, and let the drops of wax fall on your board. if you
space the drops about 1 inch apart from each other, you should have plenty of
wax on the board without using way too much
Crayon method: touch a
part of the wax to the iron, and once it melts, rub it onto the base.
Once you feel it getting hard to rub, melt it on the iron again
3. Iron the wax
onto the board. Just put the iron on the base of your board, and move it
around, re-melting and spreading the wax all over the base. If the wax
starts to smoke (at any point), turn the iron temperature down. It’s a
good idea to put your hand on the top sheet, and if you feel it start to get
warm, you should move the iron to a different place. Once it's all melted
and spread out:
4.
Wait. For at least
30 minutes, unless it’s dumping and you have no time to wait.
5. Scrape. With your scraper, make long
tip-to-tail motions until basically all of the visible wax is off the
board. There’s going to be lots of wax shavings, so do it in a place
that's easy to clean up.
6.
Structure. Using a wax brush (or a scotch-brite pad thingy, if you're lazy or
cheap) make tip to tail strokes. These little groves into the wax will
help your board go extra fast.
7. Go out and
ride. Your board is now waxed! Go to the hill and have some fun!
Pipe_Munky
Active member
it will also protect you from everything on the hill since you wont be able to move
396222687862
New member
haha yeah, is this kid retarded?
skitoggrob
Active member
yeah hes right, dont scrape off every bit of wax! its better to keep a lil extra on there so there is some extra protection and you wont move as much wax!
skitoggrob
Active member
www.swix.com
i think they have some really good tutorials
and SVST has some good tips
sun valley ski tuning
i think they have some really good tutorials
and SVST has some good tips
sun valley ski tuning
pick the right hot wax for the tempreture. Melt it on in drips with an iron. Smooth the drips out until the whole base is covered. Dont stay in 1 place to long with the iron or u can melt ur base. Wait 30 minutes then scrape with a plastic scraper. Usually tip to tail but for park it doesent really matter. Then take a brush and brush working from 1 end to the other. If you want a real nice finish then you can take a scotch bright pad to it when ur done. You really only need to get into details with the brush and scotch bright if you are worried about speed. After a couple runs it wont really matter.
don't agree - it does nothing but slow you down.
The only reason I won't scrape wax off is if i'm lazy - it comes off after a few runs anyway.
As for trying to protect your skis? No. Having wax on there won't do shit for protection
Trying to protect your skis from rail damage by leaving wax on them really isn't a logical statement, because it won't do anything.
The only reason I won't scrape wax off is if i'm lazy - it comes off after a few runs anyway.
As for trying to protect your skis? No. Having wax on there won't do shit for protection
Trying to protect your skis from rail damage by leaving wax on them really isn't a logical statement, because it won't do anything.
yes. a thin layer of wax isent gonna protect ur skis from damage by rails. and like u said after a couple runs it will be gone anyways. People have talked about leaving on wax during the summer. It cant hurt but my skis are always fine without it. After destroying my skis on rails and rocks something like that just seems useless.
a summer wax and keeping the skis out of the sun is definitely a good idea - coat your edges too, it stops the pores of the base from drying out, the base oxidising and also can stop your edges from getting surface rust (although that comes off after a few runs anyway)..so if you give a shit about your skis, then a storage wax is certainly a good idea and then a fresh wax before you take them out the next season.