Waxing

potato_man

Active member
i wax my skis myself(and do a damn good job)

but i was wondering, how long does it take you guys to wax your skis yourself? this meaning 1 layer of wax+scraping
 
yea i usually only do one because if i am waxing em its pry because they are REALLY bad. otherwise i just take em to a friend i knwo who works in a ski shop and they do a better job and is still dont have to pay
 
hah i used to take forever

waxing, then scraping and making it all perfect.

Now i just throw some on without even scraping them and i cant tell the difference.

So about 5 minutes.

 
i can do just a regular wax in about 10 minutes if i pay attention, and try to go as fast as i can. at normal speed, it takes about 20 minutes. if you mean a full hand tune with the edges and everything, it can take up to an hour, but i just bring them into the shop i work at, and do the edges on the machines, and wax them at home.
 
just throw a really hard wax on your sticks, which is a wax for very cold temps. then you dont have to scrape it, or brush it. itll be fine and its fast enough for the park. you dont need to have to spend hours on your park skis.
 
um im sory to tell u this but they DONT ROCK if you have only waxed them twice........ also dont store them in your attic or garage keep them in the basement, that will help alot over the summer if they dont have wax setting on them

 
depends on how good of a job you want. like if your doing an urban session and will scrape a ton but beuch very little. if and riding the groomers or all mountain i will do a intense jop that includes scraping and lots of brushing. if i hit the park all day i will go half way inbetween the above two. all together it takes me 15 to and hour.
 
25 min to wax, scrape and polish a pair of skis. (although I should allow more time before scraping to allow more wax to be absorbed into the bases.)
 
i wax my board really often, almost once a week. i heard that everytime you wax your skis or board it makes the bases harder and if you keep waxing its gets harder and harder. plus i like speed for the park
 
around ten minutes per waxing. i dont try to rush it or do a perfect job though i just kinda put wax on it and scrape left overs off
 
You should not have to wax that long. You should wax the base until the top sheet over the area is hot. use your hand to tell. If you are waxing more than that you are not really doing anything, just wasting time.

It takes me about 30 to 40 minutes, that includes cleaning the base, waxing, sharpening the edge, buff ect..

All you have to do is wait for the wax to cool, if it sits for 3 hours or 1 hour it wont make a difference.
 
depends on what skis im tuning. my park skis get a quick layer of wax and a fast pass with a file. my race skis on the other hand get a machine job on the edges and then about 2-3 hours of waxing the bases. they get 2 hot scrapes to clean the bases, 2 layers of all purpose wax to keep the bases moist and then 2-3 layers of high flourocarbon race wax.

sounds pretty intense but it definately pays off in the end

 
I can do it in a half hour, but I usually spread the wax then go do something else while they cool. I hate cleaning up all the wax shavings.
 
i wax them whenver i feel inclined i guess... not too often, and i never scrape it off... i just buff it so it doesnt stick to the snow and then let the snow scrape the wax off during my first run or so
 
Just depends on what I am doing, and the wax I am using I use swix... but If I am taking a trip out west I spend alot more time and attention on what I am doing and what I want out of my skis, but if i am just fuckin around at my local mt. I just give it a once over
 
Riding in Low Humidity: Most ski and snowboard wax companies offer a product line of high fluoros, mid fluoros, low fluoros, and hydrocarbons as their base wax. Fluorinated waxes work through their interaction with the water molecules in the snow. In wet snow fluoros are exceptionally fast but in dry snow, fluoros grab and slow you down. No H2O, No Fluoro. Hydrocarbons are very fast in low humidity, however due to their basic chain structure (figure A) they tend to get ripped out of the base or break down rapidly through heat and friction.

The Purl Solution: Purl manufactures a microcrystalline base wax for low humidity conditions. Purl Microcrystalline waxes show a much finer crystal structure either as branched carbon chains (figure B) or as ring structures (figure C). The branched and ring structures give Purl waxes superior adhesion as well as more flexibility and are therefore more resistant to breakdown from heat, static, and friction. The Purl Microcrystalline wax line offers durability combined with a low coefficient of friction for absolutely unmatched performance in low humidity conditions.

Figure A

Another factor that will decrease your speed in Low Humidity is static friction. The Purl Graphite microcrystalline blend battles the effects of static friction and dry friction for the perfect solution in low humidity conditions.

 
Yea, I agree with that. It's about $8 a bar. Not too bad, but come on $ for wax. Hey, it works awesome though. For the last couple of years I was the shop tech and the wax we used there was SO SO SO crappy.
 
ok ok ok am i getting ripped off if it costs me around 12$$ a block and this gets me 2 maybe 3 waxes, and thats the cheap stuff at the shops around me..... i was so sick and tired af paying 12$$ a block, so i started melting my own from those little white candles in the mettle cups(i forgot the name)

sry for the post jack but is the candles a bad idea, i have used it in the past and it has worked descent,

but i want to know if im going to ruin the bases on my skis...

thanks for the help, and sorry for the thread jack.. but its not worth a new thread...
 
- Ski wax is mostly paraffin.

- Paraffin is a hydrocarbon, which is a long stringy molecular chain.

- Paraffin is actually recommended for a ski's first few wax jobs because the molecule is smaller than fluorocarbon and penetrates deeper into the base structure.

- Because paraffin is a long stringy molecule, it is relatively delicate and is easily broken. That is why paraffin wax doesn't last as long as fluorocarbon wax.

- The fluorocarbon wax has a more complicated molecular structure (take the long string and add branches). Therefore, fluorocarbon is more durable. So, if you rarely wax your skis, use fluorocarbon wax for a longer lasting wax job.

- Fluorocarbon wax also is more water repellant, theoretically creating less friction and faster skiing.

- Ski wax, which is a combination of hydrocarbon and fluorocarbon molecules is difficult to make because the two molecules really don't like to play together. This is why ski wax is a cost item. Frankly, I think that all the hoopla about ski wax is important if you are a competition racer or if you are really sensitive to wax differences.
 
you guys are complaining about $10 per block of wax? are you serious?

for my race gear im using world cup dibloc that can run anywhere from $50 to $80 per block. this is the cost of skiing, get over it!

 
Hey I agree. I love PurlWax. I don't mind paying. I mean it's only $8, nothing like your race was that is $80. Even at $80, if it works then it is worth it!
 
30-40 minutes.

Also, does anyone mix waxes? Sometimes i will mix hot and cold wax. I've also started dripping a bit of graphite in with it, that stuff is the shit it is so fast...
 
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