Waxing Skis

ski_freak86

ski_freak86

Member
This probably has been posted a thousand times over but i want to kno how to wax ur skis at home? I have Ten-Eighty Foils...last year's.
 
well you can buy wax rub on, and then wax them and then rub it down with the cork, or you can buy an iron, scraper, and an iron and get detailed directions from the people you buy it from.
 
well if you have last years folis then you need to go out and bye this special kind of wax which only works on them. join the wax cult id invite you but i havent been made a leader yet.
 
get wax. take an iron and melt the wax so it drips on your ski bases. get a plastic scraper of some sort and spread the wax around the bases until everything is covered. wait for it to dry. once it's dry take the scraper and scrape ALL the wax you can off the bottoms of your skis. make sure to take A LOT off of else you will stick. scrape it until no more wax comes off and you're good to go!
 
umm actually youre supposed to leave a thin film of wax on the ski bas then your supposed to brush it out. so hows that talking in absolutes going for yah?
 
well, after you melt the wax on, i go with my iron and press it againt the wax on the skis to make a layer. then i wait 30 minutes and scrape it off
 
Spreading wax around with a scraper like butter is not the way to wax skiis!!! You need to melt the wax on to the ski and then spread around the wax that's on the ski with the iron. DON'T LEAVE IRON IN ONE PLACE FOR TOO LONG!!
 
alright to clear up any misconceptions. you drip on the wax and smooth it all out with the iron. then let it cool and scrape it off. but not all of it you want a very thin layer of wax on it then brush it off
 
can i put a different temp wax over one thats already on there, cause i just threw what i had left on and its for colder temps but im going to a rail jam this weekend and its gonna be warm, so would it be ok if i put the higher temp wax on now eventhough my skis are freshly waxed with a different temp wax?
 
Ya dude, you can do that if im understanding you. If there freshly waxed, like youve scraped/brushed them, then you can re wax them with the warmer wax. But to tell you the truth, it wont really make a difference. When you have warm wax on a cold day, thats when you start sticking, but youll prolly be fine keeping that cold wax on.
 
If your into swix waxes, then 6 or 7 works pretty well for the park. You don't really need all the temps for your park skis.
 
Dont drip the wax on. . . . keep the skis warm for a while, then heat up the bases a little bit with the iron on a LOW setting. rub the wax on, so you have a sheet on the bottom. THEN slowly glide the iron across the ski, just making sure every peice gets melted in, you will be able to tell the diff between melted and not if your not retarded. let them dry for a while, then scrape if you want. Scraping honestly isnt that big of a deal, but you can do it and apply a few coats. I dont scrape a whole lot cause I'm core.
 
scraping is kind of a big deal and dripping wax, although more wasteful, does a much better job of getting the entire base saturated. going back to scraping, you should at least scrap your skiis after waxing or else your gonna spend a whole day scrapping that wax off via snow which creates a lot of friction and slows your shit down hardcore.
 
BAHAHHA fuck u guys are a joke ^^^^^^ hes got that shit rite,..

see atleast being an ex racer is good for one thing... LEARNING HOW TO TUNE UR SHIT!

...

u should buy a waxing iron... (no holes in the bottom) dont use ur moms or she'll be PISSEdD wen wax ends up on all the clothes...

or buy an OLD iron at a garage sale or something,...

theres different temp wax's (the temp is the SNOW temp,.. NOT the air temp outside like on the weather channel)

or theres also all condition wax's

turn the iron on,... abou halway, to 3/4 (enuff to melt the wax quickly)

hold the iron with the point down,.. (so it will drip where u want...) and

touch the bar of way to the iron (you dont need much,.. it spreads quite easy) you can also mix temps of wax to get the desired temp

drip in an S pattern down the ski,.. dont over do it,.. if there isnt enought.. u can always add more later,.. better not enuff then to much and wasteing it,.. since your going to scrape it neways

drip the wax/wax's turn ur iron down a tiny bit and start ironing like you would cloth's DON leave the iron in one spot,.. or ur base will bubble and ur ski's are RUINED!

spread the wax out throughout the entire base (it should work eary and u shouldent need very much wax atall)

once u have covered the entire base let it cool slightly

then scrape with a plastic scraper..

DONT LET IT COOL TO MUCH or it will just chip off...

and dont do it wen its to warm or it will all come off..

let it SLIGHTLY cool (luke warm) and scrape

u can pull alotta trial and error shit,.. aslong as u dont bubble ur base..

ive been doing it for over half my life.. and ive got it down... u will sketch ur first time.. but its butter dude. have a good time,. and remember SNOW temp not air temp.. (snow is generally warmer then the air) unless its like in the posatives

 
he's totally right, waxing is just a hoax for the shops and wax companies to make money...stay core, dont wax

actually, dude before this dude had some decent instructions only thing is when scrapping you can either do it right away while the wax is still hot (this is a really good way to clean your bases and you should use softer warmer wax) amd when your putting on colder harder wax or just final coats let it soak and cool for a good hour or so and then scrape and brush it.
 
was way too lazy to read all teh posts

but i'm guessing this has already been mentioned

go to a ski shop buy a cheap iron and some wax

ask how to do it there

then before you do wat they tell you to do hot scrape then

(put wax on warma and alot, then scrape before wax cools, takes out dirt and other shit)

then just normal wax and prob dont scrape and after a couple runs wax will be off bases and ready for rails again
 
easy as this

1)go buy, some old iron,scraper,all temp wax.

2)heat iron, rub wax on iron till melts, catch drips of wax on skis.

3)iron skis like shirt, spread wax around.

4)wait 5-10 mintures

5)scrape wax off with scraper, tail to tip in a forward motion

6)take a brush or scotch brite pad and buff.

have fun
 
Or you can just follow these instructions:

1. Get supplies --> wax, iron, scraper, a nylon brush, and a brass brush (you can get horse-hair too, but it only really makes a significant difference for racing).

2. It helps to have a set of tuning vices, or somewhere where you can lay your ski flat and steady on a surface.

3. Tie your binding brakes down so that they sit as if they would when your boot is in the binding (you can use elastic bands for this, but if you feel it necessary you can actually buy proper brake ties)

4. Place the ski base up on a steady surface (maybe in a set of tune vices)

5. Heat up the waxing iron to the reccomended temperature (stated either on the box or on the wax.) If the iron starts smoking when wax is applied, turn the temperature down (don't worry, it's not on fire and it will still work perfectly fine).

6. When the iron reaches the needed temperature, place it over the ski and 'press' the stick/block of wax onto the iron surface so that the hot wax drips onto your base. Move down the ski so that there is a 'line' of drips on the base that form somewhat of a roller coaster/wave pattern.

7. Once you have dripped the needed amount of wax onto your base (the needed amount is up to you, but if your wax starts dripping off the side of your ski when you iron it on, you're wasting wax), put the stick/block of wax down, and place the iron on the base of the ski. DON'T LET THE IRON SIT IN ONE PLACE ON YOUR BASE FOR ANY AMOUNT OF TIME OR IT WILL BURN YOUR BASE AND YOU WILL END UP WITH BUBBLES IN YOUR BASE!!!!!!!

8. Run the iron up and down the ski. Make an effort not to move the iron any direction other than up and down the base (not across).

9. Once the wax has completely covered the base, turn the iron off and let the skis sit (they can sit vertically up against a wall they don't have to be flat, just make sure the bases don't touch anything).

10. Let the skis sit for as long as possible, as this will give the wax more time to set into the base. As a rule, over night is usually a good amount of time.

11. Now it's scraping time. Make sure your scraper is sharp enough. There are many ways to sharpen the scraper, and if you're willing to spend the money you can actually buy like a 10 dollar scraper-sharpener. To set a standard sharpness, feel the edge of the scraper when you buy it as that is the perfect sharpness. Also, buy and use a plastic scraper, as metal ones are made only for petexing.

12. Place the ski back where it was when you waxed. For this step, it really helps if the ski is secured sturdily on a surface, with the brakes still tied --> providing an easy surface for scraping without obstructions. If you need to though, you can always scrape on the hill leaning your ski up against a wall, but it doesn't do as good a job.

13. Use the scraper to remove all the wax on the base. When finished, it should look similar to how it did before you applied the wax. On the scraper, there should be a little 'knick' on one of the corners. Use this 'knick' to remove the wax on your edges.

14. Time to brush. Use the nylon brush for this step. Take a marker, and draw an arrow on your bush. This will now be your brush direction, so that when your brush bristles bend, you dont end up going against them.

15. Take your brush and brush the ski base down. When brushing, ALWAYS run from tip to tail. Put some elbow grease into this because this step gives your base a little bit of texture, and somewhat 'polishes' what you've been working on.

16. Once you've brushed your base, you've finished. You're done. Bingo, it's over! Congratulations on properly waxing your skis.

Oh and you may be asking why I told you to buy a brass brush as well. You use brass brushes before you wax, as they help to remove any debris your bases may have picked up while skiing, as well as any old and unwanted wax. Again, with the brass brush, draw an arrow to mark the brush direction, and ALWAYS brush tip to tail. Work the brass brush just as you do the nylon in step 15, just use it before you wax your skis... say between step 4 and 5. I hope this helps you, and if you have any more questions pm me.

 
^ oh yea sry when you scrape you want to leave a really thin layer of wax on your skis and then you brush it off with the nylon. Only a really thin layer though.

Also, if you don't have time to scrape your skis off (i.e. you wake up and you gotta be at the hill in like 5 mins), you can always ski off the wax. It's not really a big deal when you do, just for like the first run or two it'll feel kinda weird. Anyway, hope that helps.
 
would it be worth it to just dish out the $40 and get them done professionally. There's some pretty gnarly gashes on them. ??????????????answer to this question

 
Just get a p-tex candle and work with that if you know how. If you don't, find a friend who knows all this or ask the shop.
 
strangely enough, when you pay 40 big ones to get em done 'professionally', they aren't actually being done any better than what you can do at home. In fact, they just put it in a machine just like all the other skis. Doing them at home urself is way better becauses its all custom to your specs. Before you do decide to only do it yourself though, make sure you know what you're doing, cuz until you actually do understand how to do everything, the shop is better.
 
well for all i know i may be doing this wrong but it works crazy good and i didnt read the other threads so it might be right to anyways i melt wax on with an iron like drip it on then i take the iron once the dripped on wax dries and i put the iron on the skis and spread the wax around evenly, then i scrape the excess then i ride pure and simple and it does absolutely nothing to my moms iron so she doesnt notice
 
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