I actually took the old dual booster style strap off of a pair of the older Atomic Nuke boots (whatever they were) and slapped them on my Cochise 130's. Such a better strap than the standard velcro junk that's far more fiddly to use.
Thoughts on Atomic Hawx Ultra 130
- Thread starter 1KSheehan
- Start date
BrawnTrends
Active member
13837925:onenerdykid said:
So why having rivets and not easy-to-remove screws on that velcro strap? I'd love to change the strap on my Hawx Ultra 110 for a BS (or the Atomic counterpart), but I'm not super handy with a power drill.
scottydonald
New member
13837925:onenerdykid said:
Interesting....
After our PM convo I am leaning towards getting these boots in a. couple of weeks over the Rester Sport but not wanting o sacrifice the strap.
Might remove the current one from my Rester Pros... can't seem to find a link to the replacement strap online - can you help???
onenerdykid
Active member
13837933:BrawnTrends said:
I also wish that we could assemble all of our boots with screwed hardware, but ultimately it comes down to cost and weighing that cost with how many people actually upgrade their straps. The reality on the mid-level boots is that we currently don't get enough requests to warrant the higher labor costs associated with screwed hardware. On the 130 level boots, we use screws.
But, to drill out the rivets is actually quite easy. There are lots of tutorials and videos on Youtube that will walk you through it.
onenerdykid
Active member
13837935:scottydonald said:
We don't have them on the online store, you will need to get in touch with an authorized Atomic retailer who will order them for you. But, we hope to have more accessories and spare parts on the webstore as time goes on.
BrawnTrends
Active member
Fair enough... So, in your unbiased opinion, is it better to get a regular booster strap or the Atomic one? Knowing that if I go through my shop, I won't pay retail price for the Atomic.
onenerdykid
Active member
13837984:BrawnTrends said:
Honestly, even when I was a shop rat, I was never a huge fan of the Booster. It's definitely not bad, I just never found it beneficial over a non-elastic buckle strap.
The benefit of our Dual Strap (that's its official name) is that it is 55mm tall and sits independently on both the cuff and the tongue of the liner. You can get the cuff super tight and the liner perfectly flush with your shin. A Booster strap is much skinnier and doesn't easily fit on both the cuff and your liner tongue. Again, it's not a bad product, but I think what we've come up with creates a better fit on your leg.
BrawnTrends
Active member
13838240:onenerdykid said:
That sounds like a very interesting product for sure. I suffer from the skinny ankle/calve problem and it sounds like I could get the liner super snug and yet preserve some flexibility over the cuff for when I need it. I'll order it.
Found it on a website for $28.99, I'm guessing it will be around 30 euros over here in Europe?
scottydonald
New member
well purchased a pair...
now trying to get the Redster Booster strap for it... 4 days and still waiting to hear back if I can get it in the UK....
now trying to get the Redster Booster strap for it... 4 days and still waiting to hear back if I can get it in the UK....
I bought a pair of new old stock 2016-17 120s. First day out yesterday. Lots of good, and one major bad.
First the good. Light, comfortable, acceptable on the warmth front.
Now the bad.
Just as tough (and painful) as my old Langes to get on and off.
But much worse, compared to my trusty 10 year old Lange Freeride 120 boots, these Hawx are almost upright. With my Langes, I can carve my Line Prophet 100s on a dime, just by thinking about turning. With the Hawx...ummm...no. Not even close. And the Hawx are 10x stiffer than my Langes which further inhibits me getting over the fronts of my skis (I am 6', 190 pounds, and have been squatting maximum weight on the 5x5 program 3x a week for about 6 months now).
I tried to adjust the forward lean to 17 degrees last night. Nope. No go. I am taking them into the retailer right now to see if they can help me.
I hope this wasn't a mistake.
PS - many thanks to onenerdykid for all your selfless and very valuable contributions in this thread and elsewhere at this site.
**This post was edited on Nov 18th 2017 at 1:27:37pm
**This post was edited on Nov 18th 2017 at 1:30:14pm
First the good. Light, comfortable, acceptable on the warmth front.
Now the bad.
Just as tough (and painful) as my old Langes to get on and off.
But much worse, compared to my trusty 10 year old Lange Freeride 120 boots, these Hawx are almost upright. With my Langes, I can carve my Line Prophet 100s on a dime, just by thinking about turning. With the Hawx...ummm...no. Not even close. And the Hawx are 10x stiffer than my Langes which further inhibits me getting over the fronts of my skis (I am 6', 190 pounds, and have been squatting maximum weight on the 5x5 program 3x a week for about 6 months now).
I tried to adjust the forward lean to 17 degrees last night. Nope. No go. I am taking them into the retailer right now to see if they can help me.
I hope this wasn't a mistake.
PS - many thanks to onenerdykid for all your selfless and very valuable contributions in this thread and elsewhere at this site.
**This post was edited on Nov 18th 2017 at 1:27:37pm
**This post was edited on Nov 18th 2017 at 1:30:14pm
BrawnTrends
Active member
13857409:mtnbkr123 said:
That's a 120 flex boots for ya...
onenerdykid
Active member
13857409:mtnbkr123 said:
Hey mtnbkr123, the easiest way to change the forward lean to 17° requires a helper. You stand in the boot, buckled to a normal tightness (not crazy tight), helper loosens the screws in the back of the Power Shift (but not fully removed, just loose), he pulls the Power Shift off the cuff, you flex forward to the 17° position, helper places the Power Shift in place and tightens the screws.
If you want/need more forward lean, you can add a spoiler to the back of the liner to push you forward as needed. Your boot-fitter should have some options here (foam pads, plastic spoilers with velcro on the back of them, etc.)
Hope that helps and gets you the geometry you are looking for!
13857409:mtnbkr123 said:
If you were in a previous 120 flex ski boot I'm going to assume you can ski. I know weight isnt a huge factor here as well because I am 5'11" 160lbs and the 120's were honestly a little soft for me. I have them set to 15 degrees forward lean and I had them set at 13 before. I also don't have too much trouble taking them on or off. I'm just saying this to help clarify that you didn't make a mistake. Hopefully you find out whats going on with your boots so you can fully enjoy them like I have.
Thanks guys. Brought them in and after 2 guys wrestled with them Into submission, they got them set at 17 degrees.
I suspect I am going to have an even major adjustment going from my Line Prophet 100s (which are now my early season ski) to my new Kore 105s. Ultra light boots AND skis. May have been a big mistake. Guess I will find out how much I get knocked around when I unveil those 105s for the first time. Whatever. All first world problems.
Looking forward to a stellar year after 5 or so not so stellar years (which followed 5 years of epic pow chasing).
Am currently obsessing over boot warmer choices for me and my daughter (Sidas footbed warmers vs Lenz socks, and possibly a heated boot bag, although with respect to the latter, not sure if that is a bad idea for heat moulded shells and liners)...
Thanks again.
I suspect I am going to have an even major adjustment going from my Line Prophet 100s (which are now my early season ski) to my new Kore 105s. Ultra light boots AND skis. May have been a big mistake. Guess I will find out how much I get knocked around when I unveil those 105s for the first time. Whatever. All first world problems.
Looking forward to a stellar year after 5 or so not so stellar years (which followed 5 years of epic pow chasing).
Am currently obsessing over boot warmer choices for me and my daughter (Sidas footbed warmers vs Lenz socks, and possibly a heated boot bag, although with respect to the latter, not sure if that is a bad idea for heat moulded shells and liners)...
Thanks again.
onenerdykid
Active member
13857948:mtnbkr123 said:
If you need more warmz, definitely go for the heated socks, so much nicer than archaic Hotronic/Sidas style heaters with cables and cut liners. Heated boot bags can be a problem for ANY boot that has been stretched (traditional pressing or Memory Fit etc). If the bag gets above 50°C/120°F, it can lead to shrinking the plastic back. Be careful with that one.
13857969:onenerdykid said:
Thanks. I was leaning towards the socks (so long as they aren't too bulky), mostly because MEC (the Canadian version of REI) has them, which means that I can return them with no BS if they do not perform as expected.
I will blow off the heated bags and save myself $250 x 2. I lnstead, I will simply throw hand warmers in the boots for the ride out and use the hand warmers in our mitts once we arrive at the hill.
Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.
AttainArray
Member
Just got my hands on the Atomic Hawx Ultra 110. I wanted a slightly softer boot for hitting the park. I think they could be slightly too flexy... I have gone through the thread and haven't seem to find a direct answer on this.
Am I right in saying that by adjusting the forward lean from 15 degrees to 13 degrees this will adjust the boot flex from a 110 flex to a 120 flex?
Am I right in saying that by adjusting the forward lean from 15 degrees to 13 degrees this will adjust the boot flex from a 110 flex to a 120 flex?
Greg_K
Member
No, flex and forward lean are two different things but the area you adjust flex on the Ultra 110/120/130 is on the area that you have loosen to adjust forward lean.
On the back spine of the 110 or 120 boot you will see a single screw holding in that small plate to adjust forward lean. In the 130, 2 screws are already mounted in the back plate. To increase the stiffness of the boot by approximately 10, get a shop to add the second screw to that plate. On my old Salomon Ghost FS90 it was similar-the shop removes the liner and drills new hole in the second screw area, puts in the 2nd screw and puts liner back in.
Had a person on another site complain of the 130 felling soft and those back screws were loose on his boot and checked mine the other day and mine could be tightened more as well giving it a stiffer flex. So check the tightness of the single screw for now and then add the 2nd screw to increase it higher.
On the back spine of the 110 or 120 boot you will see a single screw holding in that small plate to adjust forward lean. In the 130, 2 screws are already mounted in the back plate. To increase the stiffness of the boot by approximately 10, get a shop to add the second screw to that plate. On my old Salomon Ghost FS90 it was similar-the shop removes the liner and drills new hole in the second screw area, puts in the 2nd screw and puts liner back in.
Had a person on another site complain of the 130 felling soft and those back screws were loose on his boot and checked mine the other day and mine could be tightened more as well giving it a stiffer flex. So check the tightness of the single screw for now and then add the 2nd screw to increase it higher.
Alistair.
Member
13858325:AttainArray said:
I believe you're wrong in saying that, I'll let myself be corrected by onenerdykid if I'm wrong but I just got the Hawx Ultra 120's and was told they could be stiffened to a 130 by drilling the back in the spare hole and adding the spare bolt. (obviously would get a boot technician to do it) I assume it'd be the same to make the 110's to 120.
Greg_K
Member
Read my post after and it corrects him and agrees with you that by adding the additional screw in the back of the 110(2 screws 120 flex) or 120(130 flex with 2 screws) you go up about 10 on the stiffness scale. The 130 has the 2 screws already installed but would drop to about 120 if you removed one screw.
onenerdykid
Active member
Yep- adding the second screw will roughly stiffen the boot by 10 points, and pulling the top screw from the 130 will soften it by the same. Never remove both screws from the Power Shift piece.
onenerdykid
Active member
13858725:Alistair. said:
When stepping out, try to open the throat of the boot more, specifically at the overlap, rather than pulling on the tongue.
Splaying open the overlap will usually prevent it from biting your instep.
I was out today and wanted to report back.
My 120s are now awesome, after having moved them to 17 degrees. It became readily apparent that that is where I have always been in my boots. No more flex issues either - I can crank forward as much as I want now.
As a bonus, these boots are the most comfortable boots I have ever owned. I had them on today for 8 hours, without even unbuckling them at lunch.
Awesome. Awesome. Awesome.
So happy now that they are at 17 degrees.
My 120s are now awesome, after having moved them to 17 degrees. It became readily apparent that that is where I have always been in my boots. No more flex issues either - I can crank forward as much as I want now.
As a bonus, these boots are the most comfortable boots I have ever owned. I had them on today for 8 hours, without even unbuckling them at lunch.
Awesome. Awesome. Awesome.
So happy now that they are at 17 degrees.
onenerdykid
Active member
13858853:mtnbkr123 said:
Sweet! This is why I am a huge fan of adjustable forward lean- there isn't one setting that works for everyone. There's absolutely no such thing as a "modern skiing stance". What there is is a forward lean that works for you, and that's why we try to make our boots as adjustable as possible to fit each skier's needs.
With that said, for those who want it, the 13° flip chip option should hopefully be ready in January, and I am pushing to get it done faster (fingers crossed).
BrawnTrends
Active member
13859027:onenerdykid said:
What's that?
onenerdykid
Active member
13859042:BrawnTrends said:
Whoops - thought I was posting in the Ultra XTD thread *face palm*
Normal Ultra has all three positions: 13°, 15°, 17°
Ultra XTD only has two positions: 15° and 17°, a 13° option is made with an aftermarket part.
onenerdykid
Active member
13859232:chicken said:
They didn't work for you? I've heard from lots of people that they are the bee's knees...
13733099:onenerdykid said:In size 26, it is very easy to get the shell to expand to 102mm in the forefoot (which is what we claim). Bear in mind that 98mm is on size 26, on size 27 it is 100mm, on 28 is 102, etc. etc. So it also depends on the length of your foot/what size shell you are looking at. If you are a size 29, it will be 104 out of the box
Hawx Ultra has a low-medium instep height, and more generous than X-Max/Ghost. But it's still a low volume (98mm) last. If you have a super meaty instep, you definitely want to boot-fitter before pulling the trigger.
onenerdykid: Do you think I can enlarge Ultra 130 lengthwise for 2-3 mm during memory fit molding (I have size 26)? i.e. putting toe cap inside my socks? I know I can make them wider, but it seems I need a couple mm in length - not sure if memory fit molding will be enough, or my bootfitter would need to do some extra stretching in toe box. He was concerned about stretching the toe box lengthwise because of very short BSL - he worries it might be interfering with bindings interface. Any hints?
onenerdykid
Active member
13874195:alexeygt said:
You'll probably have to do a traditional toe punch to get more length.
The short BSL has nothing to do with whether or not this can be done. The short BSL only refers to the outside measurement of the shell, that's it. It tells you nothing about whether or not a toe punch can be done. The only limiting factor is the toe shape of the binding and how much length you need (but this goes for any ski boot). He should treat it like any other ski boot in this regard.
cobra_commander
Active member
13874293:chicken said:
The heating element is on top of the foot...
Hello? Is Hawx Ultra remoldable? I had very stiff feelings in heels before heat fitting, but after it my heels and ankles very loose. Will new molding process restore previous form or there is nothing to do with loose ankles now?
**This post was edited on Feb 14th 2018 at 12:50:07pm
**This post was edited on Feb 14th 2018 at 12:50:07pm
onenerdykid
Active member
13891847:Mikha197 said:
How many ski days do you have on the boot? (Have you packed out the liner too?)
If the shell is re-heated it will shrink a little back to its original mold mass, but it might not be perfect.
onenerdykid
Active member
13892502:Mikha197 said:
No- Memory Fit is only about expansion. Cooling packs only cool down the boot so its shape stays.
If you re-heat the shell, it will get a little tighter but all over- not just the heel.
If you only want your heel to get tighter, a boot-fitter can make foam pads that go around your ankles that will snug up the ankle pocket for sure. I would probably suggest that route first.
Fuckin eggshell polyammide haha. Some guy from New York came into the shop last night with a pair of hawx boots that were absolutely warped in the oven. I'm guessing the guy put it in for like 10 minutes instead of the requested 5.
Personally, I never oven cook these things. Like ever. Same with salomon boots (unless I'm throwing them on a Fischer machine... I swear I get better results from salomon boots on that thing than the vac boots)
If they need more volume, I have other boots for that. If they protest and want them anyway, then fine, but I'm not guaranteeing shit. I might heat the liner and let the latent heat go through to the shell, but otherwise, I punch these things the old-school way on the scot press if they have bunions or bony prominitions that need spacing
Personally, I never oven cook these things. Like ever. Same with salomon boots (unless I'm throwing them on a Fischer machine... I swear I get better results from salomon boots on that thing than the vac boots)
If they need more volume, I have other boots for that. If they protest and want them anyway, then fine, but I'm not guaranteeing shit. I might heat the liner and let the latent heat go through to the shell, but otherwise, I punch these things the old-school way on the scot press if they have bunions or bony prominitions that need spacing
onenerdykid
Active member
13892877:DingoSean said:
All regular Hawx Ultra lower shells use a special Polyurethane from the ether family. No PAs- that's for the XTD series.
There's definitely a few idiot fitters/shops that tell people to walk or flex in the boots during the molding process. Face palm.
13893309:onenerdykid said:
Yeah i'm working with the XTD's a lot as well (I'm in a backcountry shop) But the 130 ultras have a PA cuff, yes?
onenerdykid
Active member
13894129:DingoSean said:
Yep, the current orange/white 130s have a Grilamid (PA12) cuff. For next year, we switch the 130 cuff to a world cup PU. When we first launched Ultra, it was meant to be our lightest boot so that's why we used Grilamid in the cuff. It's only about 30g lighter than the PU cuff, which we offset by making the power strap and buckle base plates a little lighter without making them weaker. So next year's Ultra 130 is about the same exact weight but full PU.
13894586:onenerdykid said:
So is it basically going to be like the club sport then?
onenerdykid
Active member
13894807:DingoSean said:
No, from a build perspective it will simply be stiffer version of the Hawx Ultra 120.
The Club Sport doesn't use our True Flex PU in the lower shell- it's traditional PU-ether cuff & shell, is over 500g heavier per boot, narrower, thinner liner, more forward lean, etc.
The real question though.
will the cuff crack
will the cuff crack
onenerdykid
Active member
13895660:DingoSean said:The real question though.
will the cuff crack
Real answer- no. Since we've made updates to the molds (some 16/17 boots, all 17/18 boots), we have zero warranty breakages. Those same updates were put into Ultra XTD at the very beginning, and we have no breakages there either (same exact material that was used in the first 2 years of normal Ultra 130).
13895783:onenerdykid said:
Figured not. But yeah, the first prod. run 130's were def having issues with cracking. Glad that's sorted.
onenerdykid
Active member
13896627:DingoSean said:
Yep, the good news is we're holding steady at less than 1% warranty rate for those breakages. It's a fair number of boots to be sure, but very minor in the grand scheme of the total production of Ultras. The upside to it all is the learning experience and we'll build better boots because of it.
I definitely had 2 in a size run crack last season... Real glad that's sorted out.