The Dawn Wall

Dragonslayer101

Dragonslayer101

Member
With all the media attention of Kevin Jorgenson and Tommy Caldwell things have gotten a little out of hand and a little funny. So climbers of NS, how many of you have been following this attempt? The NY times called it the hardest climb in the world, most climbers disagree with that.

Also, here is a link to an article on their attempt that I found funny:
 
I've been following this climb for years, and this current push since before it started. I think Tommy will get it done this time. Not certain if Kevin will manage to free all the pitches, but it was Tommy's climb to begin with. Very psyched to see this happening! And yes, the media has completely bastardized the coverage.
 
13290347:iFlip said:
I've been following this climb for years, and this current push since before it started. I think Tommy will get it done this time. Not certain if Kevin will manage to free all the pitches, but it was Tommy's climb to begin with. Very psyched to see this happening! And yes, the media has completely bastardized the coverage.
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Same on all points. It should be Tommy to finally free it, he's put so much into it. Pitch 15 is nucking futs.
 
topic:Dragonslayer101 said:
The NY times called it the hardest climb in the world, most climbers disagree with that.
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Not sure where your getting this information about "all climbers" but for big wall free climbing its almost objectively the hardest climb of all time.
 
13290714:bighomieflock said:
Not sure where your getting this information about "all climbers" but for big wall free climbing its almost objectively the hardest climb of all time.
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As far as big wall climbing goes I would not disagree. As a general statement of "worlds hardest climb" it is technically not true. I'm not sure of the exact rating of the crux pitch but I do know it is in the 5.14 range, while there are harder single pitch climbs that are in the 5.15 range.

Its like comparing bouldering to sport climbing. Sure, they are both climbing, but they are separate disciplines
 
13290759:Dragonslayer101 said:
As far as big wall climbing goes I would not disagree. As a general statement of "worlds hardest climb" it is technically not true. I'm not sure of the exact rating of the crux pitch but I do know it is in the 5.14 range, while there are harder single pitch climbs that are in the 5.15 range.

Its like comparing bouldering to sport climbing. Sure, they are both climbing, but they are separate disciplines
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Oh yeah I agree with you then. Don't know why you would compare bouldering or sport to big wall though. That's kinda like trying to decide between some burly Clayton Vila disaster and a gnar big mountain line.

That said, probably a good amount of 5.15s will be put up before another big wall climb of this magnitude goes down.
 
13290759:Dragonslayer101 said:
he crux pitch
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Pitches 14 and 15 are both 14d. Yikes.

13290828:bighomieflock said:
That said, probably a good amount of 5.15s will be put up before another big wall climb of this magnitude goes down.
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On a shear difficulty level, a big wall climb of this magnitude has never been done before. If it goes, most (everyone) will consider this the new benchmark.
 
Holy shit he's actually going to do it--Tommy sent pitches 19 and 20 last night to reach the Wino Tower, which means the worst is behind him. Kevin will be working on pitch 15 again today.

[video]http://vimeo.com/115583587[/video]

[video]http://vimeo.com/115711587[/video]

[video]http://vimeo.com/115734663[/video]

[video]http://vimeo.com/115807807[/video][video]http://vimeo.com/115859284[/video][video]http://vimeo.com/115807807[/video][video]http://vimeo.com/115913601[/video][video]http://vimeo.com/115807807[/video][video]http://vimeo.com/115974154[/video][video]http://vimeo.com/115807807[/video][video]http://vimeo.com/116166544[/video]
 
13290714:bighomieflock said:
Not sure where your getting this information about "all climbers" but for big wall free climbing its almost objectively the hardest climb of all time.
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This...

And all the people saying that there is no adventure and they shouldn't lay siege to the wall... nothing this hard has ever been done before. Of course its going to be done in a different style. Caldwell is pushing the limits of what can be free climbed and doing it 15 pitches up in the air.

Who the fuck cares if they are on there cellphones during their off days? What else are you going to do while you wait for your skin to regrow from climbing 5.14d.
 
13291743:iLLbiLLy said:
This...

And all the people saying that there is no adventure and they shouldn't lay siege to the wall... nothing this hard has ever been done before. Of course its going to be done in a different style. Caldwell is pushing the limits of what can be free climbed and doing it 15 pitches up in the air.

Who the fuck cares if they are on there cellphones during their off days? What else are you going to do while you wait for your skin to regrow from climbing 5.14d.
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The hate on them for the use of their phones is excessive. There is still plenty adventure in their climb, as compared to Harding's or Robbin's valley ascents in the 60's this is much shorter
 
13291762:Dragonslayer101 said:
The hate on them for the use of their phones is excessive. There is still plenty adventure in their climb, as compared to Harding's or Robbin's valley ascents in the 60's this is much shorter
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yea and they were aiding the whole way up. A lot of the hate is because people just don't simply understand how difficult this route is...

7 pitches of 5.13. 7 pitches of 5.14....

I've been climbing consistently for the last 5 year and I can hardly lead 5.11 sport. Trad... my hardest pitch was 5.9+. These guys are insane.

Mescalito-Topo_28532.jpg
 
I tried to create a scale skiers could relate to. Obviously the difficulty of these tricks could be debated... but you should get an idea of how exponentially harder things get.
 
13291826:iLLbiLLy said:
I tried to create a scale skiers could relate to. Obviously the difficulty of these tricks could be debated... but you should get an idea of how exponentially harder things get.
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and... I guess NS didn't like my formatting... fuck doing that shit again, I just wasted 20 minutes of my life.

Sorry for the trip post
 
13291912:paige. said:
For some reason I really like your writing. Thanks for the cool ass diagram.
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Not to burt your bubble, but that's Tommy Caldwell's sketch from the 2011 push.

But more importantly, they just summited!!!! The Dawn Wall offiially goes!
 
On a semi-related note, has anyone seen the trailer for Tommy C and Alex Honnolds Fitzroy ridgeline traverse? The film is going to be epic
 
Did anyone else watch the live feed?

that last pitch was super anticlimatic.

I was super hyped... then they get 4 feet from topping out and climb to the right... and that was that.

No cheering at the top... nothing. Just empty rock for 5 minutes. NBC fail.
 
13297166:Rachy said:
Did anyone else watch the live feed?

that last pitch was super anticlimatic.

I was super hyped... then they get 4 feet from topping out and climb to the right... and that was that.

No cheering at the top... nothing. Just empty rock for 5 minutes. NBC fail.
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It was like that because honestly the celebration happened after knocking off the last 5.14 pitches. 5.12b to them is moderate climbing. Its like wallisch doing a 2 pretz 2. 9/10 times they will send it even when being exhausted. 5.14 on the other hand is elite climbing. I would expect them to cheer a bit but in all honesty they knew they were done a few days ago.
 
topic:Dragonslayer101 said:
The NY times called it the hardest climb in the world, most climbers disagree with that.
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The NY Times should have been more specific in that it is "the hardest big wall free climb in the world." I would not disagree with that.
 
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