Subs for my sequoia

pyle? please get a better brand than that...the best subs i have ever heard are Alpine Type-R dvc at 2-ohms each I believe. Both 12", you need an amp that can push out a few hundred watts RMS at 1 ohm and you'll be golden.
 
http://www.millionbuy.com/apnswr1242d.html

2 of those

http://www.millionbuy.com/apnmrdm1005.html

1 of these

The amp is a bit more expensive but Definitely worth it, your amp is one of the most important parts of your system. Those subs are better than the kickers, and the amp is vastly superior to the other one you were looking at. When you wire them, http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html?subs=2&impedance=DVC4x2

wire them so that you have a 1 ohm impedance to get the optimal power out of the amp.
 
ya pretty much, it doesn't split up the signal at all between the left and the right sub, like if you had a 4 channel amp for your other speakers throughout your car, it would be stereo and split up the signal left and right. With a sub amp its just one 'mono' signal to both subs so they both fire simultaneously
 
i dunno its brand new and has a 100 dollor box on it. id say 400. and 50 for shipping. ill send you a pic tongiht. if youwant
 
kicker makes good stuff, ive never heard of pyle. i used to have 2 12" jl w3's with a 2 channel kicker amp that i bridged, it hit really fuckin hard
 
i have 2 10 inch infinity (350 watt rms) in my car, they sound pretty good, but they dont pound like other systems. my brother has 2 1000 watt 12 inch MTX 9500 subs in the back of his MDX with a 2000 watt amp (which people have constantly gotten over about 2400 watts to play continuously). i have to say it is the loudest thing ive ever heard in my life. the cone is able to move 4 inches on the sub (mech max) and i listened to them moving about 1.5 inches and i could barley take it. the rear windshield wiper was bouncing a good half inch to an inch off the back window.
 
ohms mean impedance....its a kinda hard concept to explain, the lower the ohms the less the impedance, it doesnt mean all that much except how you wire them. With one amp, 2 dual voice coil speakers you would want 4 ohms because you can wire them to 1 ohm of impedance, which is what the amp is rated for....ya, that doesn't make much sense but its a semi-difficult physics concept
 
I wouldn't....they seem kinda sketchy even tho they are by infinity. Really your best bet would be the alpines, or else maybe Kicker, JL's, rockfords, MTX....uhh maybe audiobahn, cant think of many other good brands off the top of my head. Pioneers maybe, not much else I'd go for.
 
ohms refers to the resistence of the component. the lower the ohms the lower the resistance and therefore the more current it can handle, however a component with lower resistance is harder to drive and therefore requires more power so its not always a good thing to have extermely low resistance speakers. when you get into extremely high end audio and use tube amps some of the speakers that are designed to work with these amps will have an impedance of 16 ohms because the tube amp you're running is putting out like 100 watts but that 100 watt setup will spank some shitty 1000 watt best buy setup. sorry for the lengthy answer but it gets complex.

as a tip when buying an amp...a tell tale sign of a really good amp is that the power will double when the resistance drops i.e. 200 watts into 8 ohms and 400 watts into 4 ohms, this shows the amp is extremely strong and will deliever a lot of current. sometimes you will see amps that are 200 into 8 ohms and 350 into 4, this amp isnt as strong but it doesnt necessarily mean its a bad thing, just keep an eye out to match your equipment well.
 
yes dude those w3's fucking pound! i had two of those running at 600 watts and they were glorious haha
 
i have a 10" alpine type R. bought it new from best buy for 150 including taxes and whatnot. had circut city build a custom box for it made to spec on the alpine site. box is carpeted, small. sub is all wired up and ready to play. but i ended up never even installing it because i was too broke to buy a decent amp for it. soooo yeah i want like 200$ for it. brand new, its just chillen on my couch in my room collecting dust. lemme know. youll need a 500wtts RMS amp to run it, and even though its a 10" it fucking POUNDS! i had 2 12 JL w3v2's previously, i sold them because my buddies 10" type R hit just as hard, and sounded cleaner than both my 12's.
 
even if it would, pleaasssseee do not go with that brand. An amp is probably the most important component of the system and you really should go with a name brand if you want quality and no problems. If you can fork over the extra 200-300 or whatever it was that alpine setup i showed you was one of the best you can find hands down.
 
i got my JL's from a store called audio craft, professionally insatlled and everything, they were working correctly. im just saying that it wasnt clean bass. at all
 
also keep in mind that it is extremely important to have your sub box(s) built to the factory specs of the subs you buy. my system was great until i got fed up with having zero trunk space, so i went from 2 subs to 1 and swapped out my custom built box for a pretty small premade one. obviously its not as loud due to the loss of one sub but the sound quality is no where near what it once was.
 
this would be my suggestion....the alpine type-r's hit HARD and sound amazing, they are my favority brand for a reason. Looking at this: http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html?subs=1&impedance=DVC4x2 you can get one 4-ohm DVE (dual voice coil) sub down to 2 ohms...you get a type-r alpine DVC 4-ohm (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14954) and power it with this amp which is 600W at 2 ohms (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14927) and the rule of thumb is you want a more powerful amp than your speakers. I know its only one sub, but one of these will hit reallly hard because of their quality and is the setup I would get (trunk space mostly) if I had the money. I can look for a 2 sub system in a little bit if you want but thats what I would recommend for now.
 
My friend had two type R's in his integra, and it doesnt hit nearly as hard as One of my type X. that thing broke my rear window. no lie
 
Ya but he is on a budget, of under 400, which is how much a type-X goes for on its own, not to mention the amp that can pump out 1000 watts RMS...a type-X is a competition level sub which is why its so powerful
 
the actual subwoofer doesnt make as much difference, the amp is the important part you could have top of the line subs with a shit amp and they will sound bad so make sure you get a really powerful amp, and get 2 subwoofers i have 2 12in and it sounds a lot cleaner than one 14in like my friend has cuz they the sound is balenced not all coming out of one speaker
 
Quit pushing this kid to buy some Alpine subs. I have one of their top of the line cd players and a amp for my AlumaPro and couldn't be happier. But I would never buy Alpine sub, I just don't like the sound it makes compared to JL's W6.
 
the amp is what makes the diff, your original amp is a POS!! the kicker subs are great, go with those just invest in a better amp.

MA Audios are amazing, easily the best sub i have ever heard, and i know car audio, they are professional grade. much better than alpine or kicker or mbs
 
Ok, well thats your opinion. Im pushing the Alpines subs because of all the ones Ive listened to and experimented with the sound the best in my opinion, which he asked for. If he would have asked for a different brand, I would have given some. I actually did farther up, i listed some off the top of my head that are all good subs. It was just an opinion.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top