Storing skis over the summer

Maruchan

Maruchan

Member
I saw a post in a thread that sounded like a great idea and I'm curious as to whether or not I should try it. Over the summer obviously you should wax your skis to keep moisture in and prevent it from coming out but what if you waxed them and didn't scrape them? Do you think this would work, then just scrape them at the beginning of next season?
 
Wax, don't scrape. Rub wax on your edges to prevent oxidation/rust. And finally, turn the DIN all the way down on your bindings to release tension on your binding springs when they aren't being used regularly
 
Ya wax them with a really warm wax like yeelo and then don't scrape them. Leave them in a warn place over the summer and all that wax will be sucked right up!!
 
yep what everyone's been saying wax them up don't scrape, wind down your bindings and put them in a bag from the thrift shop and go about your day.
 
Temperature isn't important. You could store them in the freezer for all it matters. What IS important is that it is a dry place. Moisture is not a best friend to any sort of stored equipment.
 
EpicSki called and they want their obsessive, nonsensical precautionary bullshit maintenance measures back hahaha

Seriously though, there's been so many discussions regarding this, and every single one comes back to "Yeah that doesn't matter at all"

If you're that worried about fatigue in your bindings, just buy all-metals a la STH16, FKS18/155s etc etc
 
Depends on the skis in question. A park ski that is getting thrashed around and slammed against metal all day long is going to warrant less care then a nicer all-mountain or powder ski.
 
I do use all metal race-stock green springs. But is is so easy to turn your DIN down once a year, why wouldn't you do it?
 
Green springs, eh? I'm surprised people here even know what those are haha kudos for needing a 30 din!

But honestly, what do you think turning them down does? I'm curious. In your case especially, the lowest setting is still a comparably pretty large amount of energy in the spring itself and turning the down does literally nothing. If you have metal housings, the pressure they "notice" from the spring is none and I assure you it's wholly inconsequential. Turning them all the way down is still FAR away from 0 pressure, which ideally turning them down as a storage measure would theoretically be desired.

I mean hey if it makes you feel good then do it, but don't do it because you think it's prolonging the life of your bindings. You'll likely strip your worm screw from turning them up & down before your housing will crack from the spring pressure FWIW.

I've never personally seen even a plastic housing blow from the spring pressure and never seen an example of it happening on the internet either, so I fail to see the need to protect my all metal bindings from themselves tbh.

But hey, everybody's got a ritual. Don't let me stop you from doing yours, it's not hurting anything unless you forget to turn them back up :)

 
I turn my DIN's down because I have nothing else to do with my life and it's the only time I ever get to stick my screwdriver in a slot :(

But seriously though, It does nothing, just feels good. The only way it might help is if you were really looking to extend a bindings life beyond it's time until it hits the indemnified list.
 
You do not want to cover your edges with wax. From what ive been told the moisture inside the wax actually oxidizes and makes the edges rust over time. so just keep them dry and they wont rust. Also dont use a fluorinated wax because they dry out your base.

I dont ever do it but turning the DIN down is not to protect the house whether its metal or not. it is to loosen tension on the spring. Like shocks in a car, they wear out. you can loosen the screw so much it comes out if you really wanted to but thats to much work id say.
 
lol who told you that? if the wax covers the edge, any moisture in it will not have access to oxygen, which is essential to oxidization. the wax forms a barrier so oxygen cant react with the edges
 
Don't listen to htis. All you need to do is wax the whole ski, cover the edges and scrape them next season.

Or you could just move to an area where you can keep using them all year.
 
I know moisture isn't good but i'm pretty sure being warm helps it, its like a hotbow effect. If the wax is really cold it wound penetrate the ski, if its warm the wax is softer and can be harder to wax.
 
BTW, the only thing that temperature would affect is if they are stored without being waxed AND are exposed to large and/or frequent fluctuations in temperatures. I made that mistake once and don't plan on doing that again.
 
Hey if you have good habits and take great care of your gear, whether or not every single step is consequential is almost irrelevant. I think the important part is that the gear is obsessed over properly (thus it feels important, as it should), and general maintenance is being performed- above and beyond is never a bad thing IMO, I just didn't want someone thinking the were damaging their bindings by not turning them down.
 
i saw some thing saying store them sot here is no pressure on the rocker or camber but in a neutral position, how would the be done, vertical but not on the tips/ tails?
 
That's just being paranoid. Just keep them however you want as long as they're being exposed to constant pressure on the rocker or near things that can fall on them.
 
There's been tests done as to whether or not turning your bindings done makes a difference, 9 years of keeping 1 ski with the din set, and another turning the din down after each season, after torque testing they were both the same
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top