Slow Mo Guys
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Superduploman
Member
High fps
Correct shutter speed
Appropriate ISO (depending on light)
Propper lighting
specialized editing software (apple's compressor or Twixtor for 'fake' slomo)
Steady camera helps
A camera that doesn't have a tilting sensor
The time effects in basic editing softwares like vegas or final cut usually does a terrible job at rendering slomo, so use something like compressor (at least for apple), then you can bring it into twixtor for better results. Twixtor doesn't create real slomo (converting fx. 120fps to 24fps), it blends frames together so if the subject of a shot moves a lot between frames then you'll get a weird warped kind of a look
Correct shutter speed
Appropriate ISO (depending on light)
Propper lighting
specialized editing software (apple's compressor or Twixtor for 'fake' slomo)
Steady camera helps
A camera that doesn't have a tilting sensor
The time effects in basic editing softwares like vegas or final cut usually does a terrible job at rendering slomo, so use something like compressor (at least for apple), then you can bring it into twixtor for better results. Twixtor doesn't create real slomo (converting fx. 120fps to 24fps), it blends frames together so if the subject of a shot moves a lot between frames then you'll get a weird warped kind of a look
The best slowmo definitely comes from cameras with higher fps. Twixtor looks horrible unless you're one of the few kids out there who have mastered it.
Everyone mentions that you need your shutter speeds to be perfect and iso, lighting, etc... That's true with just about every shot...slow or not. The biggest over looked part of slowmo is focus. If you're locked in perfect for the exact moment of the action you want it makes all the difference in the world.
Everyone mentions that you need your shutter speeds to be perfect and iso, lighting, etc... That's true with just about every shot...slow or not. The biggest over looked part of slowmo is focus. If you're locked in perfect for the exact moment of the action you want it makes all the difference in the world.
Superduploman
Member
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nm3U7ICKw_0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QozunkXFDyc (please ignore the massive lens flare overkills)
This is the best i've done I think. T2i and slomo rendered in Compressor. I'd just like to get rid of the flickering in the first edit and the occassional ghost frames in the second one. I'd also love to know how to do a speed ramp if somebody here knows how?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QozunkXFDyc (please ignore the massive lens flare overkills)
This is the best i've done I think. T2i and slomo rendered in Compressor. I'd just like to get rid of the flickering in the first edit and the occassional ghost frames in the second one. I'd also love to know how to do a speed ramp if somebody here knows how?
on the one called teaser, I have a few tips. Sumar won't load for me.
First is stabilize it. Even a ballhead with a panoramic base would help. Also, don't shoot into the lights. It creates backlight on your subject (the rider), and it messes with your exposure. the light will be washed out, and the rest of the scene will be too dark. On the second shot, you had it from the other side and it looked much better. having real audio would be great, especially ramped, so if you can get a mic or something, that could take it next level. As far as ramping, there are a lot of tutorials on youtube, I think gamers like to do it for some stuff, so you should be able to find something there (personally I don't know/haven't done it, but I may look into it now).
Try filming during the day, use a decently high shutter speed, stop down and be sure you are in focus, use something to stabilize it, and a mic if you can, then upload that.
First is stabilize it. Even a ballhead with a panoramic base would help. Also, don't shoot into the lights. It creates backlight on your subject (the rider), and it messes with your exposure. the light will be washed out, and the rest of the scene will be too dark. On the second shot, you had it from the other side and it looked much better. having real audio would be great, especially ramped, so if you can get a mic or something, that could take it next level. As far as ramping, there are a lot of tutorials on youtube, I think gamers like to do it for some stuff, so you should be able to find something there (personally I don't know/haven't done it, but I may look into it now).
Try filming during the day, use a decently high shutter speed, stop down and be sure you are in focus, use something to stabilize it, and a mic if you can, then upload that.
Superduploman
Member
You want a program that converts higher frame rates to 24/5fps. I've never used AE but considering how extremely advanced it is, there should be a tutorial on how to do it in AE.
Apple's Compressor is my favourite choice, it's basically a program that imports footage from your SD card to your computer using some crazy smooth settings, I even use it for importing 24fps 1080p from my SD to my laptop just because it looks better after compressor handles it.
You're basically looking for an importing program that lets you choose the export settings (similar to when you're exporting from AE), google a little bit for a couple of minutes and you'll find something. I think there's even a plugin for AE that does this.
I did a little bit of researching and I found out people use Quicktime Pro to do this process, hope this helps
Apple's Compressor is my favourite choice, it's basically a program that imports footage from your SD card to your computer using some crazy smooth settings, I even use it for importing 24fps 1080p from my SD to my laptop just because it looks better after compressor handles it.
You're basically looking for an importing program that lets you choose the export settings (similar to when you're exporting from AE), google a little bit for a couple of minutes and you'll find something. I think there's even a plugin for AE that does this.
I did a little bit of researching and I found out people use Quicktime Pro to do this process, hope this helps
NMMedia
Member
The main things are:-Frames per second the camera records in
-Good contrast between the subject being slowed down and the background
-Steady camera
-Make sure when you import your footage you import it at whatever frame rate you filmed in DONT let it conform it to 30fps
-NEVER slow a clip down to more than 24fps (this is about as slow as you can go before it starts to look choppy) ideally I never slow it down below 30fps (so if you are filming in 60fps you can slow to 50% etc)
-If you want to break the above rule you can use a program like Twixtor to build extra artificial frames to make super slow motion smooth (this is where contrast between subject and background matters so Twixtor doesn't derp out and build wacky extra frames where it blends subject and background)
-Good contrast between the subject being slowed down and the background
-Steady camera
-Make sure when you import your footage you import it at whatever frame rate you filmed in DONT let it conform it to 30fps
-NEVER slow a clip down to more than 24fps (this is about as slow as you can go before it starts to look choppy) ideally I never slow it down below 30fps (so if you are filming in 60fps you can slow to 50% etc)
-If you want to break the above rule you can use a program like Twixtor to build extra artificial frames to make super slow motion smooth (this is where contrast between subject and background matters so Twixtor doesn't derp out and build wacky extra frames where it blends subject and background)