Ski Help (Core Shot)

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It's right under my heel. I was thinking Ptex, But I don't know how it will hold up.

I just need it to last 1/2 a season
 
P-tex is the way to go..just ask for it at your local shop, shouldn't be expensive at all.

Im sure theres some fancy way if doing it but i just light the wick on fire with a lighter and drip it over the hole. Should last a while
 
I came to this thread thinking i was going to see a 10 inch long super big core shot....lol

Ya, ptex with work. Make sure u clean the whole before u put the ptex on. U can use a citric based solution to clean it out and from there just cut out extra snaglys of orignal ptex.then put ptex in....make sure u wate like 24 hours before u scrape the exses stuff of or it could comprimise the bond..

 
P tex boy, do it by your own, not hard at all, just warm up the bases with an iron or a lighter, after a few minutes you are good to go, light the ptex, let it burn til its dripping... wait some time and warm the bases again drop some more ptex if you want, let it cold for some time and then with your metal scrapper, scrap out the remaining ptex. Now you are good to go, thats how I do it and it works perfectly, people probably do it all different.
 
ptex outta fix that up, it bonds better to metal i think the spot that ur core shot is in actually worked in your favor so you should be good monies but don't quote me on that (but i'm pretty sure thats what the tec at my work told me)
 
Ptex doesn't bond to wood or metal, whoever your tech is needs to find a new job. Base weld if you want it done right! Sg
 
got a similar looking core shot - just trying to repair at the moment. I cleaned it out well with citrus base cleaner, roughed up the metal edge and core with a bit of sandpaper...repeated the cleaning (also with warm soapy water)...and dry well..

..Then i used some epoxy (some Araldite slow cure stuff) on the inside edge and core to act as foundation for the p-tex to bond to. try not to ovefill with epoxy, think you only need it to just cover the surfaces. Let that set for 24hours, scrape off any excess on the edges etc with a metal scraper. Going to rough up the epoxy surface, clean out once more then apply the p-tex.

I think the best way to go is base weld, but i'm hoping that it might work for a while. I have been told it may well just fall out, but i'll see how it holds up
 
personally i'd just say fuck the ptex and epoxy that baby, wildly exaggerated you're gonna end up with 1cm² of epoxy on your base instead of ptex ... you're not going to notice the difference and the end result will be much stronger .....

then, if you're really into base repairs and want to get tricky you could always take a dremel tool and remove a thin layer of the epoxy and fill that up with ptex ... on the other hand ptex repairs along an edge are never so clean, at least not without a ptex gun ...

i'd just go for full epoxy or if it wasn't my call i'd suggest to go to a skishop and have them fix it ....
 
I took a smaller but similar shot skiing rocks at Alta a couple weeks ago. PTexd it, let it settle, applied a little more to make sure it filled correctly, and it came out great.
 
Personally I'd get that patched or base-welded (if your shop will do welds).

Ptex will fill it for a while but being where it is I reckon it would pop out pretty fast.

Just make sure you do something with it, if you keep skiing it like that you'll get water in the core and then your skis will turn to paper mache.
 
i've been trying em for years now and the real shots, not just scracthes, never come out 100% clean with candles ....

what am i doing wrong ?

i've tried the layering approach and all but never quite achieved succes ...
 
P tex hole and over edge a lil, get super sharp razor blade... And it will look just as clean as p-tex gun. Half the time at work i opt to use ptex stick over the gun.
 
^^what do ya mean by over edging? overfill the hole so the edge is also covered in ptex, then scrape it off ?

and you fill in layers? or all at once ?
 
Over filling the hole so the edge is covered in ptex, I fill in layers if its all the way to the core. and texture the layer..

So p tex first layer, then with a razor blade cut an X pattern into the ptex once its set.. this helps the 2nd layer bond better to the first layer.

(something I learnt from tiling that i found worked for ski tuning haha)

And by using the razorblade instead of a metal scraper to remove the excess reduces chance of the ptex cracking, Then makes smooth by base filing near the edge (place tissue paper under the file on the base so you are only removing the petex/damaged area. That's how I was taught to do it. And that was from Didier Cuche's technician so must be right haha.
 
i always removed excess ptex with a panzer file but yeah, that might be a bit too rough, gonna give the old razor a try next time! gilette quattro fusion ftw! ;)

and the texturing of the ptex is also a cool idea, thanks !
 
I can't even afford to shave my face with such a thing let alone my ski HAHA

I know you probably know but just to make sure a razor blade like this...

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i know ;)

although i'm kinda tempted to give it a try with one of my old quattro blades, just for shits and giggles :)
 
in reply to your PM, I take a razor blade and remove any excess stuff from around the hole, then take a little bit of sand paper to make the rim a bit more corse. Drop a little bit of epoxy in in the hole, then ptex over that. Then it's just a matter of getting the base clean and flat again, which is just more time consuming then anything. I life to use a metal scraper here, but you might find use for the razor blade again. Go about it slowly and you will get it perfect sooner or later.
 
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