druppin_jibs
Member
Had a screw pull out, what should I put in the old holes to keep the screws in better. Also already tried glue, maybe I should try more glue and use epoxy too? Worked well for most of the holes but one hole didn’t work
Remounting in old holes
- Thread starter druppin_jibs
- Start date
CatdickBojangles
Active member
Epoxy and a little shredded steel wool.
Chunderface
Active member
Put one of those one things in there.
FaunaSkis
Member
If it’s a pull out rather than a back out of the screw, the threads are likely stripped on the hole, which is why you’re not getting a good grip.
You’ll need to (get a reputable shop to) re-drill them for inserts, either cheap plastic ones or more expensive metal ones (like Binding Freedom inserts). They’re typically fixed in with resin.
plastic ones you usually use the original binding screws, metal ones you’ll need machine screws and loctite.
You’ll need to (get a reputable shop to) re-drill them for inserts, either cheap plastic ones or more expensive metal ones (like Binding Freedom inserts). They’re typically fixed in with resin.
plastic ones you usually use the original binding screws, metal ones you’ll need machine screws and loctite.
druppin_jibs
Member
14314547:FaunaSkis said:
Could you send me to a guide or website for more info. Would like to diy this one
FaunaSkis
Member
From Tognar on the plastic inserts:
Stripped binding holes happen, when you encounter one deal with it ASAP. If the hole is not too enlarged you can cut up some steel wool and mix it into a batch of epoxy, insert the mix into the hole and reinstall the screw. This is a pretty bomber fix for hole that isn't too far gone. For tougher cases its best to use an insert. These plastic inserts are a relatively easy fix for a stripped binding screw hole, they're less expensive than a helicoil kit and don't require any special tools to install.
A word of caution: these inserts should be used on one hole, maybe two on Nordic skis, per binding. They aren't intended as an alternative to the Binding Freedom System. The pull out resistance of these inserts is rated at 240Kp, so they're strong, but not strong enough to secure a binding on their own.
Used in 8mm holes.
Will work with Alpine or Nordic binding screws
Pull out resistance is 240Kp.
These inserts are sold individually.
8mm drill bit not included.
Installation:
You'll need an 8mm (5/16") drill bit and a hammer.
Use the 8mm bit to enlarge the damaged hole. Be sure to mark the depth (about 9mm is good) on the drill bit to avoid drilling through the ski, or better yet pick up an adjustable depth bit).
Tap the insert in and reinstall the screw. If the insert sits a bit above the base after installation simply file it off or use a razor blade to cut it flush
Stripped binding holes happen, when you encounter one deal with it ASAP. If the hole is not too enlarged you can cut up some steel wool and mix it into a batch of epoxy, insert the mix into the hole and reinstall the screw. This is a pretty bomber fix for hole that isn't too far gone. For tougher cases its best to use an insert. These plastic inserts are a relatively easy fix for a stripped binding screw hole, they're less expensive than a helicoil kit and don't require any special tools to install.
A word of caution: these inserts should be used on one hole, maybe two on Nordic skis, per binding. They aren't intended as an alternative to the Binding Freedom System. The pull out resistance of these inserts is rated at 240Kp, so they're strong, but not strong enough to secure a binding on their own.
Used in 8mm holes.
Will work with Alpine or Nordic binding screws
Pull out resistance is 240Kp.
These inserts are sold individually.
8mm drill bit not included.
Installation:
You'll need an 8mm (5/16") drill bit and a hammer.
Use the 8mm bit to enlarge the damaged hole. Be sure to mark the depth (about 9mm is good) on the drill bit to avoid drilling through the ski, or better yet pick up an adjustable depth bit).
Tap the insert in and reinstall the screw. If the insert sits a bit above the base after installation simply file it off or use a razor blade to cut it flush
BradFiAusNzCoCa
Active member
What does the shredded steel wool do? Allow better grip on the core or?
14314568:FaunaSkis said:
14314655:animator said:
FaunaSkis
Member
14314801:BradFiAusNzCoCa said:
It works as a strong filler material for the epoxy and almost acts as an extension of the screw thread, giving something solid in the gel of the epoxy to dig in and key with the ski materials around the stripped hole.
you could also use glass or carbon fibres to go in the epoxy but they're not easily got from the hardware store and are janky to handle. Fibreglass itch is pretty uncomfortable.
STEEZUS_CHRI5T
Active member
Relocate the bindings half an inch or so and redrill. My old suspects pulled out so many times there wasn’t a place for the bindings after 2 years
druppin_jibs
Member
14314882:FaunaSkis said:
Looks like I’m in luck. I have plenty of fiber glass around the house for car body work. I’ll fill those holes up partially with a layer of fiberglass, then probably redrill, then put the screws back in. Now all I need are some griffon toe pieces
abar.
Active member
I tried the fiberglass thing and it didn't work that well (it wouldn't screw tight, it just spun and pulled the fiberglass out like a grain elevator), I just used a shit ton of epoxy since I was planning on getting new skis soonish and it worked for the 3 months it needed to.
I bought ten of those plastic inserts from tognar for 5 bucks to just have laying around and would use them in the future
I bought ten of those plastic inserts from tognar for 5 bucks to just have laying around and would use them in the future
druppin_jibs
Member
14316668:abar. said:
have any pics of the fiberglass? what fiberglass did you use? how much? I bet if I put lots of fiberglass in the hole, added the glue, then added the binding plus screw- the screw would squish the fiberglass in the shape of the screw and create a tight fit between the side of the hole, the fiberglass, and the screw. Then in addition to this added friction, the screw would also be epoxied in. Thoughts?
abar.
Active member
14317067:druppin_jibs said:
That would probably work ok, but I have no idea what the actual retention strength would be and I wouldn't want to rely on that long term. What I did was based on something I read online and it didn't work the way it was supposed to so I don't know if you should repeat it, but I just bought some of that woven fiberglass cloth you find in hardware stores, cut it into small strips, mixed it up with a little bit of epoxy, and shoved it in the whole. I then screwed the screw in as far as I could before it started spinning, and then I let the epoxy set for a day or two. What was supposed to happen is I could then tighten the screw some more as the fiberglass-epoxy mixture would have solidified into a threaded hole. This did not happen, it just kept spinning. I tried to add some more and do it again but it never worked (I also tried totally filling the hole with a sawdust-epoxy mixture and re-drilling it, wasn't strong enough for the threads to hold), so eventually I just shoved in a bunch of the stuff along with some wood shavings, filled it with as much epoxy as I could, and put the screw in. This held fine for the 3 months until I got new skis, but I wouldn't want to do it on more than one hole or for much longer than that. The other issue with it other than being worried about pullouts is that since I couldn't actually screw it all the way down to tighten it, there was a decent little gap between the binding and the ski where that screw was supposed to pull it down which was a bit sketchy. A few months after this I was shopping on tognar for a proper binding mounting drill bit and I bought some plastic inserts as well so I would be covered for this in the future.
TLDR: You probably shouldn't trust a bunch of epoxy and filler to make a blown out hole usable long term, but it could work for a few months if you are planning on getting new skis or bindings or something. Best to either get a real insert designed for that purpose or just remount in a different place.
STEEZUS_CHRI5T
Active member
Seriously just bring them into a shop and have them drill new holes. They do it all the time. /thread
