PTex question

melt it into the gouge with a lighter, over fill the gouge, let it cool, then scrape it off with a razor blade. /thread
 
this if you want to pay for it.

if not do a candle rather than a lighter. The butane in the lighter will make the ptex look super black--good for black bases, but if you're trying to keep it the color stick you have use a candle
 
a propane torch. lighter will be hard to get it hot enough, but it can be done. you will get the best bond with a torch.
 
you will get a better bond if you use a propane torch or something else capable of heating the ptex up substantially.

but you can just use a regular lighter and it will work just fine.

light the tip of the ptex candle with the lighter and hold it just above the gash you are trying to fill, try to keep the flame as blue as possible and just keep making passes over the gash dripping ptex in as you go, eventually it will fill up over the gash, then just scrape the exdess off and youre good.
 
unless the edge on your metal scraper is properly sharp i would reccomend using a razor blade/stanley knife as you are more likely to rip it out with a blunt scraper, rather than take off the excess. heating up the base with your waxing iron around the gash is good as the ptex will be less likely to crack when it cools and small amount of thermal expansion on the base will give a better grip once it all cools down.I would also reccomend shaping your gash to give it a bit of an overhang on the edges of it, it will hold the ptext better. also roughening up the suface inside the gash with a couple of lines with your razors blade will improve hold.

 
I was taught to put epoxy in the hole first and let it set up to give the ptex something better to adhere to.
 
Soldering iron with pure ptex strips, not drip candles.

On core shots I just use epoxy now, without a top layer of ptex.
 
I just use a little metal spoon that attaches to the end of a blow torch and melt it in like I was waxing my skis.
 
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