Proper Boot Fittings

NH_LiNe

Active member
Alright so last time I bought boots they told me my big toe should just barely hit the end of my boot so when you get into the knees bent skiing position your toe wont hit any more and you will have a little room. So is this correct? Im going to get new boots soon and I may have to get a half size bigger... witch means remounting bindings but anyways how should they fit my feet, like the people told me? I really need them to fit perfect because i cant stand shin bang anymore

Member of the, 'lets help Sam loose some weight so he can possibly get a girl Club'

 
come on now people

Member of the, 'lets help Sam loose some weight so he can possibly get a girl Club'

 
yes, this is true. Otherwise, the boot will be too loose in general, and will cause pain. When you try the boots on, make sure you lean forwards in skiing position before you buckle up so you can feel where your foot is going to shift to while you're skiing (this will get your toes as far back as possible).

-Sara

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skihood.com
 
sounds good, anyone else?

Member of the, 'lets help Sam loose some weight so he can possibly get a girl Club'

 
what they say is right...tighter it is, more control you have. I have 2 pair of boots, Salomon Pro model and Salomon course, my course is a 28, and my pro model is a 29.5.

i take my course one if i want a lot of control, for skiercross or stuff like that...either, i cant stand the fact of being tight, and i take the 29.5

anyways, if you can afford it, buy a Comformable liner..i have it and its the best..completely fit your feet..

Drink 1 BASE a day, Keep the doctor away.

Baseconcept.com

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Go for a tighter fitting boot. As far as my experiances go, a tighter boot will not only give you more controll, but will eliminate shin bang and toe bang. if your foot has no room to move in the boot, it will not slam into shit. also look into a custom footbed if ya have the cash. A custom footbed will effectively make your foot shorter, buy giving your arch more support, which allows you to get in a smaller boot. I wear a size 12 Vans street shoe, 2 seasons ago i made the mistake of riding salomon x waves in a 29.5. i had so many problems with shin bang in these boots. now im in a nordica beast in a 28.0 and still feel i could go for a smaller boot.

You more then likely wont have to remount your skis if your just going up a half size. The is NO differace between most even and half size boots, with the exception of the footbed. If you dont believe me look at the sole lenght of any even boot (ex. 28.0) and then look at that same boot in its half size (28.5) you will see no differance. and most of the time the differance between full sizes is only rougly 10mm's so you prolly wont have to remount.

Questions??? throw them up, i know a pretty good amount about boots, and if i dont know the answer, i work with the best bootfitters in the country.

 
I agree, you should get your boots a little smaller, becuz the liner wears out after a while even if it's a custom heat fit liner. And becuz your foot is touching all areas of the inside, there's no room for it to move back and forth. For example, a friend of mine had Rossi Free X boots, and after 20 days of skiing, they were a whole size too big.

It also depends on how seriously you take this. If you're not using them enough to get used to the tighter fit, it's not worth it. If you're just doing this recreationaly everyonce in a while, then get a snug fit for comfort.

 
If you get your boots from a shop, make them back it up if you get anything like a custom footbed. If you have any pains or problems with the boot, take it back to them and bitch. I had far too much pain in my feet/shins this past season for me ever to buy boots without some kind of guarantee.

OH yea, dont buy lange either :D

 
Yes your boots should be firm fitting. But the amount of 'firmness' depends on what type of skier you are and waht type of skiing you prefer.

1. choose the right brand. Is your forfoot wide then atomic, medium, salomon, narrow lange (and of course there are all the other brands).

2. shell fit first. Take the liner out, put your foot in with your heel at the back, going into ski stance (not too far forward just the perfect center) get someone else (if you do it yourself when you bend over it will change your stance) to put their fingers between the back of your calf and the back of the boot. A squashed finger is competitors race fit, 1 finger is someone that wants a lot of quick response, two fingers is for the cruisers.

3. put the liner back in, stamp your heel into the back of the boot (especially langes b/c they have a tight heel fit). Strecth into the boots, adjust your fore/aft then feel where your toes are. There should be 2-3mm from the front if you are an advanced skier.

4. YOU MUST GET FOOTBEDS. For the extra cost this will make a huge difference. Many westerners have pronated feet (usually only slightly but it makes a big difference when your are skiing and relying on small movements), and most people need some arch support. There are different kinds of footbeds but it's important that you get a boot fitter that knows a little bio-mechanics to do it properly. They should also grind down the sides to make it fit in the boot properly.

You may also need other adjustments ie heel grips, lifters or blow outs in certain places. Don't look for the cheap deal, look for a good boot fitter. So many people out there sell boots with no clue what they are doing. Your boot transfers your movements to the ski so it is more crucial than edges (and I'm an aussie that normally skis ice, so that's a big call).

 
My shop does a fit and performance guarantee. If you ski it and it totally is not working for you, bring it back and we will get you into something that does, no questions asked. Custom footbeds too... Always a plus!

May the seed of your loins be fruitful in the belly of a lamb...
 
thanks for all the help people, also how many of you people get your bindings checked every year should i because they dont seem to be releasing well, maybe i just havent crashed hard enough yet but you guys seem to no your shit so i figure i should get all the info i can out of ya

Member of the, 'lets help Sam loose some weight so he can possibly get a girl Club'

 
its a good thing to do, it only costs like 10 bucks and only takes 5 minutes, just think if your bindings are bad, and you break a leg or something, you will be wishing that you spent that 10 bucks and took that 5 minutes at the begining of each season.

 
What bindings do you have? What is your DIN (and weight, height and level)? Have you checked the forward pressure? Is your friction plate still intact? Dirt in the rollers?

 
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