Preperation for urban rails?

S

SunburntSquad

Member
weow first snow last night, gonna hit up some urban for the first time this week hopefully.

what should i do to prep for the rail?

how exactly should the lip be built, and where?

i hear to file down bumpy parts on the rail and have sandpaper, is this good?

what material am i looking for especially(aluminium, steel, paint over steel, no paint,) i don't know!?should i wax the rail, everyone seems to make sarcastic comments about this and i still do not understand?

thanks!
 
speed is the most important thing, the more speed the better

build the lip how ever you want it and where ever you want it, but be warned that if you make a down rail a ride on and film it, you will get made fun of

bring water for the lip so it can freeze and harden it

get enough speed

don't pussy out

if you fall, grab for the rail, it is better than landing on concrete stairs

did i mention get enough speed
 
-don't wax the rail, that's just silly-don't build a big ass lip cause thats ghey

-salt is good for building and speed

-clean up when you leave
 
Usually if I find a really nice rail to hit, I run around it masturbating and I jizz all over it to make it extra slippery.
 
If you're good enough to hit urban, you're good enough not to need a ride on. I've never understood why people hit urban with huge kickers or full ride-ons. If you really need a kicker that big, you're not good enough to be hitting urban.
 
Or you're just learning and want to try? I don't get why kids who aren't comfortable without a ride on can't make one without being made fun of, let them do their thing until they're ready for a smaller kicker.
 
So true. You have gotta start somewhere. I don't see the problem with big jumps onto urban rails. The main thing is to not get hurt so you can ski again the next day.
 
I'd day to start by a mellow rail, the first urban I've hit was a 2kink and it was a bit stupid, and also don't have expectations if you've never hit the rail,
 
if you're good enough to be hitting urban, you should have a decent jump onto the rail. it just adds difficulty and shows skill
 
1- show up to spot

2- build lip

3- salt lip

4- hook up the spots

5- shred it

6 ????????

7- profit IE banging hot babes
 
I dont mean to threadjack buut... Im looking into doing some urban this year, how do you know if the rail is aluminium or steel?
 
prepping: clear the stairs and put a thin layer of snow on your landing and in run. in the spring it may be necessary to salt your inrun. you can always add more snow to the landing if you've got a hard impact.

jump: never build your jump more than half of the height of the rail. i've found that any higher is just unnecessary, as half the height of the rail allows you to add enough pop if it's a flatter rail, and allows you to slowly shave it down to a smaller, flatter jump for steeper rails if you find it necessary. in the winter with cold dry snow, build your jump first and use copious amounts of water to get it solid. in the spring time, build it closer to the start of hitting it and salt the piss out of it. when i first started hitting urban we built big jumps too, and the only advantage is a mental thing. just don't be a pussy because it looks gay.

speed: if you're using a drop in, place it 6-10 back from the start of your jump. when building a snow drop in, try to ice it in layers and use shitloads of water to make sure it doesn't crumble (snow drop ins are going to be shorter, those are the ones you place around 6' back from the jump). if you're using a bungee, set it up so that you're letting go of the bungee 6-10' back from the jump as well. speed is your friend when you're hitting urban, because you can always slow down if necessary, but if you don't have enough speed to start with you either can't hit it or it looks like shit.

rails: dont hit aluminum, unless you can land lightly like a ninja. steel vs. painted steel, doesn't matter as the paint will chip off your first few times hitting it. if you're catching on the paint, use your ski edges like a file and chip all of the paint off manually. if you're sliding something concrete, which i would suggest only doing when it's pretty cold out, pour whater over it to ice it first.

skis: DULL YOUR EDGES UNDERFOOT FIRST. if you don't it will end in pain and agony.

most importantly, remember that hitting urban is not fun. it is countless hours of agony and defeat in exchange for 30 seconds or so of triumph and celebration. but man, those 30 seconds are sweet sometimes. if you're having fun, then you aren't trying hard enough tricks.
 
This is pretty good, the only part i dont agree with is the last section. I do think that urbans are time consuming and can be painful, however they can be very fun. It is also very rewarding when you get the shot you want, that probably adds to it.

Just to add to this thread:

Bare minimum supplies:

- A culligan bottle of water. The more water you have the better. You will use this to freeze the jump and in run once you have shaped everything. Tip: dont pack the jump until at least 5-10min after pouring water on it or the wet snow will just stick to your shovel. (those big bottles that go on water dispenser things)

- As many shovels as people you are shave the session with. Its a waste when somebody is just sitting around while everybody shovels for an hour or more to build your setup.

- A generator. We try as often as possible to find power sources where we are filming but more often than not, we end up using to much power and the breaker cuts out. Its best to be prepared for that situation so that you dont just need to pack up when you loose power. 3500w genies are generally powerful enough for a solid lighting setup. bring lots of gas too. a 5 hour session isnt uncommon.

- 20ft bungie/ drop in ramp. Each has their own advantages. 10ft bungies suck dick and tend to launch way to fast. Bring lots of extra rope too because you never know where you might have to tie the bungee too.

- Lights. We generally use 3 stands of 2 500w construction lights. They are cheap and the replacement bulbs aren't expensive either. You will break bulbs. If you can afford nice lights, do so.

You should maintain your setup as you session as well. By working on the jump and taking time to add more water and make it stronger or fill in ruts it will eliminate any large amounts of downtime you will have when your jump collapses.

Don't turn your lights on until you are absolutely ready to session. you dont want to attract any unnecessary attention before you start hitting the feature.

If the police show up, DONT GET IN THEIR FACES. This is key. Some cops are just assholes and will be pissed right away but this doesnt mean that you should do the same. Just be understanding and if they ask you to leave and clean up the JUST DO IT. Generally you will deal with security guards, who are much less stoked, and other citizen heroes that believe its their responsibility to protect what ever rail you are hitting. Same goes for them. Be understanding and dont talk back to them because that wont get you anywhere. You might be mad but just be the bigger person.

Have a lookout for cars if your landing goes onto a road. A lot of rails run onto sidewalks and you will slide onto the road so just make sure you have somebody looking out.

When it comes to setting up your lights, generally try and have two pointing at the feature in the direction that you will be filming and one from the back providing backfill. That is quite general but is a good formula to get well lit shots. Also, dont just light the rail or what ever your hitting and not the landing. too many people just disappear into the darkness after they land. As viewers we want to see what happened after they landed as well.

If you can, bring two cameras. this will allow you to get two angles as well as have a backup if one craps out. Also, bring lots of batteries and turn your camera off when you arent recording something. You want to save that power as long as possible.

Hope this helps, just sorta paraphrased from another post.
 
your setup should look just like this:
camriley.jpg
 
yeah you are unless your park has no rails set up street style, which is rare.

I come from a very small park, the first rail I ever hit was a down-rail set up street-style because that was the only rail we had at the time, and the lip was about 1/3 the height of the rail.

12 year old me didn't say "this rail is too hard, I'm going to go build an urban ride-on instead."
 
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