P-Texing

nsnski240

nsnski240

Active member
I got some big divits in my ski when i ran over a damn rock. I Usually just hold a lighter under the ptex until it's on fire, then drip it in the hole. Is there some special trick to this so i don't fuck my new skis?

hardcore lousiana fanboat shit

'fuck! there's a damn boulder on the slope'
 
ya like i always get this like black burnt shit into mine and i heard that thats not good. but i dont know the correct way to do it

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“When you sit back and you look out and your on top of a peak you realize that there’s no worries in life and its all about happiness right then�- C.R. Johnson

“For me it’s the kind of fun that I like to have, it’s going skiing in these big mountains and having the opportunities to get into these places we get to go.�- Seth Morrison
 
well buddy, it sounds like you already fucked your new skis by skiing over rocks. i dont know why, but i have a stick of black ptex, and a stick of clear, the clear never seems to cure properly, or doesnt stick in right. or i jsut never do it properly with hte clear and always do it properly with the black. i dunno, maybe its just a strange coincidence

Whats the difference between a screwdriver and Bill Clinton?

A screwdriver turns in screws, and bill clinton screws interns.
 
Let it light for a little bit, rotating it so it doesnt goop all on one end. Once it gets nice and hot and starts to drop hold it literally like a milimeter from your base and let the ptex flow in a constant stream, sweep it back and forth a few times. Scrape and repeat untill its completly flat, depending on the depth of the gouge you should only need to do it a few times.

We pay our debt sometimes.
 
how do you keep from getting the black chunks of burned stuff in your ptex?

my level of radness... it just can't... be quantified.
 
try to keep the flame blue by holding the flaming p-tex close to your base... if its orange that means its too hot and burns faster, so it might not cure properly. I only use black p-tex now but my clear stuff did have black chunks.

 
There are a few things you can do to help the P-tex job stay...

-once the p-tex is lit, keep the flame blue, yellow flame is bad, keep it under control by dabbing it on some aluminum foil

- use a torch lighter or a cheap home depot torch to light it if you can, keeps the p-tex cleaner

-clean and rub sandpaper in the divet first to help it bond better

-put in a lot, and then file it back to the level of the base. A Bastard file is a good file to use.

It probably won't stay too long with your first tries, it takes practice. If they are new, nice skis, you might be better off getting it profesionally fixed. I got my technique down on my rock skis...

 
yeah, if you're using clear, keep a butane torch on it while you're dripping it into the base, that way it wont oxidize and get the black crap in it.

You gotta want that cow bell.

-CCR-

IAN
 
the 'burning black stuff' is p-tex, and it is sold in sticks for fixing bases. Be sure to not let it burn yellow/red, because the p-tex burns less efficiently at lower temps, which makes the dripping p-tex charred, which is not fast on snow. If the skis are new and you are not experienced, give the skis to a shop for a base grind and tune, because it is good to have some wax on there for the season anyway. If you have any friends that race, they can help you out with this stuff.

*NORTHEAST CULT*

check out Stept...

 
it sticks better if you heat the base first with an iron. like not too hot, just warm like it would be from waxing.

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watch out I have BADD
 
What about those there new-fangled ski-shop thingys they got around? I reckon they might be able to help you out. Buy 'em a 6-pack and yer good to go partner!

-TAK, PPPhD

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''Independence is for the very few; it is a privilege of the strong. And whoever attempts it even with the best right but without inner constraint proves that he is probably not only strong, but also daring to the point of recklessness. He enters into a labyrinth, he multiplies a thousandfold the dangers which life brings with it in any case, not the least of which is that no one can see how and where he loses his way, becomes lonely, and is torn piecemeal by some minotaur of conscience. Supposing one like that comes to grief, this happens so far from the comprehension of men that they neither feel it nor sympathize. And he cannot go back any longer. Nor can he go back to the pity of men.'' -my buddy, Fred

''The possibility of physical and mental breakdown is now very real. No sympathy for the Devil, keep that in mind. Buy the ticket, take the ride.'' -Raoul Duke, and his good friend, Mr.Jim Bean
 
yeah, have the shop do it. if you have a flat bit of metal, use it to press the ptex into the hole, it bonds better. the burnt bits may be from the wick of the candle, but i dont knwo if there even is a wick in ptex candles.

binding destruction count: 3 so far this season, one pair of lines and two pairs of rossis: what will be next?
 
get a p-tex extruder from a race store online like reliable racing or something, the p-tex that they use in a shop has epoxy in it which makes it stick much better and u don't get the black shit from the lighter

 
i used the 'continuous flow' tatic and the scotch brite, 2 coats, i'm going up tonight so we'll see how it works

hardcore lousiana fanboat shit

'fuck! there's a damn boulder on the slope'
 
the ice and snow can damage the core, or if it gets wet, it can expand the wood and cause a delam

Whats the difference between a screwdriver and Bill Clinton?

A screwdriver turns in screws, and bill clinton screws interns.
 
matches and lighters are bad for clear petex.....use a propane or even better butane TORCH to heat up the petex, it will be much hotter and you wont have the black shit on it, then it should cure fine

 
if the damage goes to the core then go to a shop and get a real base weld. if it's a deep gouge going to the core of the ski then p-tex dripped in WILL crack and fall out.

but if you are a cheapass then you can try putting in a very thin layer of epoxy in on the base, let that dry, score it up with a razor blade then drip in p-tex and scrape. That will hold better than p-tex alone.

also, p-tex does NOT stick to metal.

 
base weld base weld base weld ha

'Has you ever had an abortion? Surely you should try something before you say it is bad. Because I was very anti-Burger King, but then I went there and I had the flame grilled, ain't it, and you know it was like amazing.'-Ali G

'the devil only exists beacuse of your belief in him, same goes for that other guy'

- Sage Francis

 
you're definatly gonna want to do it in layers. somebody already said that i think, but do one layer, let it dry, then another and so on until you're level or just above level with your base. then scrap it level, that can get pretty tuff so try to be as clean as possible...if you don't do it in layers it will crack and fall out within a few days.

 
the wax company holmenkol makes something that is essentially p-tex but they call it something else...it works way better than p-tex and you don't get burnt crap
 
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