Official mountain biking thread

13853088:mmccarthy81 said:
Someone help me out, I’ve ridden lift access at vail, beaver creek, and whiteface. Two days on a DH bike and on an all mountain one. I like the way DH bikes ride way better but may not be close enough to lift access trails next year in college for a DH bike to be worth it. I’m trying to find an enduro that excels at downhill and off drops but can still do a little climbing when necessary. If someone can point me in the right direction or tell me what to look for in a bike (I’ll prob be getting one used on pinkbike or something) that’d be awesome. Thanks to anyone willing to give some bike advice

Oh man, there's sooooo many bikes that fit the description of what you're looking for. Keep an eye on pinkbike, like you said. You can even create a search and save it on there so you can bo back to that exact search and narrow it down by what you're looking for. That's where I've pretty much every bike I've owned. That said, I'm now super biased towards my Ibis Mojo HD, so you should get one of those.
 
13853024:ThaLorax said:
Thanks, I'll look into that wide hook in the 2nd pic. I got Amazon to give me a refund and I'm keeping them, so I can use the broken one (ironically) for long term storage and the one that didn't come broken for storing one of my spare wheels i guess? How did you drill the hole for the hook to screw in? Does it come with a mounting kit?

No mounting kit. I bought the woodscrew versions so essentially they are self-tapping wood screws, but are much easier to mount into a stud with a smaller pilot hole. I have mounted them just using brute force with no issues, but I would recommend using a drill with a bit that has a smaller diameter than the screw shaft to make life much, much easier. It's not rocket science and doesn't need to be exact, any drill bit with a smaller diameter shaft than the screw itself will make your life way easier. Especially if you are going through drywall and stud like I was.

They are dirt cheap too. Highly recommended.
 
13853136:division.bell said:
No mounting kit. I bought the woodscrew versions so essentially they are self-tapping wood screws, but are much easier to mount into a stud with a smaller pilot hole. I have mounted them just using brute force with no issues, but I would recommend using a drill with a bit that has a smaller diameter than the screw shaft to make life much, much easier. It's not rocket science and doesn't need to be exact, any drill bit with a smaller diameter shaft than the screw itself will make your life way easier. Especially if you are going through drywall and stud like I was.

They are dirt cheap too. Highly recommended.

Appreciate the response. I shall do this.
 
13853115:PBraunstein said:
When I moved out to Utah, I quickly realized that the lack of bike parks and gnarly, full send terrain (at least in the salt lake area) did not require the need for a dh bike. Most good dh trails around here, you need to pedal to get to, so i sold my dh bike and bought a giant reign 1. The reign would fall right in the category that you're looking for, as well as a plethora of other bikes. I would just look for a 160-170 travel bike with a more dh leaning geo (ie. the reign, capra, meta v4.2). All ive done to my reign is shorten the stem, throw on dh bars and get rid of the god awful schwables that came stock and replaced them with some butchers (2.6 in the front, 2.4 in the rear) and I pretty much feel like I'm on a dh bike

Thanks, I’ve looked at capras actually but needed to hear from someone that bikes like that are actually capable on some decently intense downhill. Also just noticed you said mountain creek before and I’d be riding there when I’m home in the summers. I live like 40 minutes away so I ski there on south every week.
 
13853149:mmccarthy81 said:
Thanks, I’ve looked at capras actually but needed to hear from someone that bikes like that are actually capable on some decently intense downhill. Also just noticed you said mountain creek before and I’d be riding there when I’m home in the summers. I live like 40 minutes away so I ski there on south every week.

Intense Recluse
 
13853135:ThaLorax said:
Oh man, there's sooooo many bikes that fit the description of what you're looking for. Keep an eye on pinkbike, like you said. You can even create a search and save it on there so you can bo back to that exact search and narrow it down by what you're looking for. That's where I've pretty much every bike I've owned. That said, I'm now super biased towards my Ibis Mojo HD, so you should get one of those.

Just googled it, that bikes hot
 
13853088:mmccarthy81 said:
Someone help me out, I’ve ridden lift access at vail, beaver creek, and whiteface. Two days on a DH bike and on an all mountain one. I like the way DH bikes ride way better but may not be close enough to lift access trails next year in college for a DH bike to be worth it. I’m trying to find an enduro that excels at downhill and off drops but can still do a little climbing when necessary. If someone can point me in the right direction or tell me what to look for in a bike (I’ll prob be getting one used on pinkbike or something) that’d be awesome. Thanks to anyone willing to give some bike advice

I'm gonna recommend the Norco Aurum c7.3 it actually pedals really well
 
13853162:mmccarthy81 said:
Just googled it, that bikes hot

I've ridden lift access DH in both Colorado and Austria with it. It climbs like a goat and flows DH like water. If you want a bowling ball on the DH, that's what DH bikes are for.
 
13853175:ThaLorax said:
I've ridden lift access DH in both Colorado and Austria with it. It climbs like a goat and flows DH like water. If you want a bowling ball on the DH, that's what DH bikes are for.

If I could afford two bikes I’d have a DH but I need something that can actually pedal sometimes. TBH though I wouldn’t mind killing my legs a little bit more for an enduro that seriously kicks ass going downhill
 
13853188:ThaLorax said:
You'll be more than fine on nearly any 150-160mm "enduro" frame.

Yeah I’m probably being too nervous ab it bc the enduro bike rental I used once was probably trash and made me skeptical about them
 
13853189:mmccarthy81 said:
Wait are you serious?

Seriously, if youre not going for long cross country rides it's great. It is probably the best downhill bike I've been on when it comes to pedaling. It will be a little heavier than an enduro/all mountain, but it is definitely worth it on the downhill
 
13853229:sickski said:
Seriously, if youre not going for long cross country rides it's great. It is probably the best downhill bike I've been on when it comes to pedaling. It will be a little heavier than an enduro/all mountain, but it is definitely worth it on the downhill

Where do you typically ride? I love downhill bikes but need something that can function without a chair lift
 
13853231:mmccarthy81 said:
Where do you typically ride? I love downhill bikes but need something that can function without a chair lift

I live at Winter Park Colorado, I ride the bike park (trestle) and I also ride the local trails.
 
13853192:mmccarthy81 said:
Yeah I’m probably being too nervous ab it bc the enduro bike rental I used once was probably trash and made me skeptical about them

Don't listen to that guy saying the Aurum will be a good trail bike. The gains on the downhill do not outweigh the pains of the uphill. Get a 150-165mm frame. I wish I wasn't a size small or XS. There's so many rad bikes for sale in that category in Medium and Large on Pinkbike.

Speaking of that, if anybody knows of someone 5'5" or shorter who is looking for a mtn bike, I'm selling my Turner 5 Spot.
 
13853272:ThaLorax said:
Don't listen to that guy saying the Aurum will be a good trail bike. The gains on the downhill do not outweigh the pains of the uphill. Get a 150-165mm frame. I wish I wasn't a size small or XS. There's so many rad bikes for sale in that category in Medium and Large on Pinkbike.

Speaking of that, if anybody knows of someone 5'5" or shorter who is looking for a mtn bike, I'm selling my Turner 5 Spot.

Yeah I'm gonna look for a 160-165mm frame with a decent head angle and some fat tires. Thanks for the help
 
13853149:mmccarthy81 said:
Thanks, I’ve looked at capras actually but needed to hear from someone that bikes like that are actually capable on some decently intense downhill. Also just noticed you said mountain creek before and I’d be riding there when I’m home in the summers. I live like 40 minutes away so I ski there on south every week.

If you havent yet riden a bike at Mountain Creek, I highly suggest doing everything in your power to do so. That place is a diamond in the rough, and biking is basically the only thing there worth anyone times. This coming from someone who slapped dirt and taught dh lessons for the past 3 seasons there (and I was building rails for them in the winter), but Creek is where i cut my teeth on a bike, as well as a plethora of other really fast dudes on a bikes (Aaron Chase, Richie Rude, George Ryan etc).
 
13853363:PBraunstein said:
If you havent yet riden a bike at Mountain Creek, I highly suggest doing everything in your power to do so. That place is a diamond in the rough, and biking is basically the only thing there worth anyone times. This coming from someone who slapped dirt and taught dh lessons for the past 3 seasons there (and I was building rails for them in the winter), but Creek is where i cut my teeth on a bike, as well as a plethora of other really fast dudes on a bikes (Aaron Chase, Richie Rude, George Ryan etc).

If I don't get a bike before the bike park closes there I already planned on renting and going the last weekend or two with my friend who BMX's anyway. I talked to some dudes in a Burlington bike shop about how I'd be riding at Creek when I was looking at bikes over the summer and they all said I was lucky to live close to it. I was surprised they knew about it and that they said how nice their bike park was so I've actually been itching to go.
 
Thinking about buying a second hand Commencal supreme dh v4 race from their website. Does anyone know the difference between the race and the essential version? Website says both frames are "NEC + ULTRA XTRM (Aluminium 7005 Triple Butted)." Commencal confuses me
 
Has anyoone here rode the commencal furious and if you have did you go with the boxxer or fox suspension. I'm pretty set on this bike and but can't make up my mind about whether or not fox is worth the extra money
 
My one question, how might one be able to have enough money to both Mountain Bike AND Ski, AND Travel to Mtn Bike and Ski? I can only afford to ski as of right now, but even I work for resort to get free season pass and passes to other resorts. I don't just have the few grand laying around to get a reliable Mtn Bike. Do you get the money from your parents, or what's the deal on that? I don't want to hurt any feelings just wondering why I always have to demo a mtn bike when there has to be a secret way to be able to get a brand new bike with new parts every year or so.
 
13875034:aideey10 said:
Has anyoone here rode the commencal furious and if you have did you go with the boxxer or fox suspension. I'm pretty set on this bike and but can't make up my mind about whether or not fox is worth the extra money
just depends on how stiff you want your fork to be. For instance, if you ride moto you’ll love it. If you’re newer to downhilling or just can’t tell the difference (not everyone can) a boxxer will treat you plenty well and keep it lighter.
 
13875155:Segsxi said:
My one question, how might one be able to have enough money to both Mountain Bike AND Ski, AND Travel to Mtn Bike and Ski? I can only afford to ski as of right now, but even I work for resort to get free season pass and passes to other resorts. I don't just have the few grand laying around to get a reliable Mtn Bike. Do you get the money from your parents, or what's the deal on that? I don't want to hurt any feelings just wondering why I always have to demo a mtn bike when there has to be a secret way to be able to get a brand new bike with new parts every year or so.

I bought skis two years ago and have saved about $2500 in the past 4 months working for a bike and am still in high school so am not paying bills. It’s easy for me to save because I don’t have to pay for my living expenses but not gonna lie if I don’t get a bike this year while I’m still living free, I won’t be able to afford one for a while haha
 
13875178:mmccarthy81 said:
I bought skis two years ago and have saved about $2500 in the past 4 months working for a bike and am still in high school so am not paying bills. It’s easy for me to save because I don’t have to pay for my living expenses but not gonna lie if I don’t get a bike this year while I’m still living free, I won’t be able to afford one for a while haha

I did the same thing this summer and bought a 2018 RM Altitude to rip park AND trail- and I know that I wont have a new bike for AWHILE
 
13875155:Segsxi said:
My one question, how might one be able to have enough money to both Mountain Bike AND Ski, AND Travel to Mtn Bike and Ski? I can only afford to ski as of right now, but even I work for resort to get free season pass and passes to other resorts. I don't just have the few grand laying around to get a reliable Mtn Bike. Do you get the money from your parents, or what's the deal on that? I don't want to hurt any feelings just wondering why I always have to demo a mtn bike when there has to be a secret way to be able to get a brand new bike with new parts every year or so.

I'm building up a new bike right now. Bikes are a bit easier to do than skis because there are so many parts. Spend $50 here, $100 there and wait for sales or watch Pinkbike buy/sell or Craigslist.

For example, I picked up GX 1x11 groupset for $200, but already had cranks, so sold the ones that came with the groupset. $100 for 1x11. Local shop had a moving sale so got a Chromag bar and Maxxis DHF/DHR tires for 50% off. Got a Hope Pro Evo 2 rear hub for the price of a 6-pack and a rebuild kit.

There are always deals to be had if look and your patient.
 
13875034:aideey10 said:
Has anyoone here rode the commencal furious and if you have did you go with the boxxer or fox suspension. I'm pretty set on this bike and but can't make up my mind about whether or not fox is worth the extra money

Def worth the extra money imo.. nothing quite feels like a fox40 and the fox float in the rear is great too... The furious looks like a great bike for a great deal
 
Just put another Lyrik RCT3 and a VIVID Air RC2 on my Winer. Thing is so so so plush. Full smash mode 29er.

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All the snow around here melted.. so I almost bumped this thread last night. Decided I’d stay positive, but looks like someone else bumped it anyways..

what should i upgrade on my bike? I’m on an intense Recluse right now, foundation build.
 
13889176:.lencon said:
All the snow around here melted.. so I almost bumped this thread last night. Decided I’d stay positive, but looks like someone else bumped it anyways..

what should i upgrade on my bike? I’m on an intense Recluse right now, foundation build.

I rode a DVO edition Recluse in the Grand Enduro this season, what a fun bike! If your rocking a bone stock foundation build the first thing I'd do is a new bar and stem combo. Bump the width up to 780mm(ish) ish and a 35 mm stem. New grips always make me feel faster too. I like the ergon ge1's. These upgrades will pimp your ride, they are just about the cheapest you can do to your bike, and will definitely help with its handling performance.

If you have the money, a bigger ticket item I would look into upgrading are those Shimano brakes. I honestly hate Shimano components (saint groupset excluded) and their brakes are the worst of it for me. They have ZERO modulation and even less stopping power when you really need it. I'm running Sram CODE R's on my Evil Wreckoning build and they modulate like hummingbird wings, stop on a dime, and are easy to maintain.
 
13889207:search4freshies said:
I rode a DVO edition Recluse in the Grand Enduro this season, what a fun bike! If your rocking a bone stock foundation build the first thing I'd do is a new bar and stem combo. Bump the width up to 780mm(ish) ish and a 35 mm stem. New grips always make me feel faster too. I like the ergon ge1's. These upgrades will pimp your ride, they are just about the cheapest you can do to your bike, and will definitely help with its handling performance.

If you have the money, a bigger ticket item I would look into upgrading are those Shimano brakes. I honestly hate Shimano components (saint groupset excluded) and their brakes are the worst of it for me. They have ZERO modulation and even less stopping power when you really need it. I'm running Sram CODE R's on my Evil Wreckoning build and they modulate like hummingbird wings, stop on a dime, and are easy to maintain.

I have new grips on em. I have sensus grips for now, will probably stick with sensus but need a thicker grip. I have the Lite which are pretty thin.

i probably need to pedals too, I like flats, but want something good that won’t break the bank.

idk if I want a wider bar.. I feel like it’s already pretty stable, while nimble as well. It’s already a lot wider than my last bike, and wider than most of my homies bikes as well.

i would not mind changing the brakes tho
 
13889211:.lencon said:
I have new grips on em. I have sensus grips for now, will probably stick with sensus but need a thicker grip. I have the Lite which are pretty thin.

If your cool with a non-locking grip the ESI extra chunkies are super nice, and more durable than I ever imagined
.lencon said:
i probably need to pedals too, I like flats, but want something good that won’t break the bank.

oneup components offers the best budget flat pedal Ive ever seen. Its a nylon compsite and costs about $50. If you have the extra money and aren't worried about beating them up buy the aluminum ones for $125.

.lencon said:
idk if I want a wider bar.. I feel like it’s already pretty stable, while nimble as well. It’s already a lot wider than my last bike, and wider than most of my homies bikes as well.

I guess I can understand that, as long as its whats best for you. I run a 785 mm with a 35 mm rise & 40 mm stem, even on my 120mm trail bike. If Im running a race that has stages with tight trees I'll go down to a 765 with a 55 mm stem, but I always love the responsiveness when i go back to wide bar/short stem.

.lencon said:
i would not mind changing the brakes tho

DO IT!!!! Goin' fast is just about worthless if you cant slow down when you need to and end up OTB.

One final upgrade that everyone will have to do by the end of the season, if they ride enough, is tires. Im a huge fan of maxxis and I run a DHF/DHR combo down here in Colorado.
 
13889216:search4freshies said:
If your cool with a non-locking grip the ESI extra chunkies are super nice, and more durable than I ever imagined

oneup components offers the best budget flat pedal Ive ever seen. Its a nylon compsite and costs about $50. If you have the extra money and aren't worried about beating them up buy the aluminum ones for $125.

I guess I can understand that, as long as its whats best for you. I run a 785 mm with a 35 mm rise & 40 mm stem, even on my 120mm trail bike. If Im running a race that has stages with tight trees I'll go down to a 765 with a 55 mm stem, but I always love the responsiveness when i go back to wide bar/short stem.

DO IT!!!! Goin' fast is just about worthless if you cant slow down when you need to and end up OTB.

One final upgrade that everyone will have to do by the end of the season, if they ride enough, is tires. Im a huge fan of maxxis and I run a DHF/DHR combo down here in Colorado.

I’ll probably stick with the $50 pedals. Cause I’m also thinking of getting some clipless pedals and shoes.. with no snow and since I’m taking a spinning class (lol), I might do a race or two in May/June. Just cross country/trail races, no pure DH.

and yeah honestly, I’m not sure how wide my bar even is, but it’s a bit cumbersome in tight trees, but could be wider in open trails/down hill, so it’s a good “quiver of one” bar, and bike for that matter. One of the only bikes I would do a cross country race on one day then hit a 30 foot jump the next haha.

ill have to look into those brakes for sure, and I totally agree, no point in going fast if you can’t stop when ya need to.

im on maxxis tires right now. I don’t think I need new ones just yet. I got my bike in July last year, but only rode it 1 time a week since I was super busy with work.. up until September/October, then I started riding 2-3 times a week. But I haven’t been on my bike since November.
 
Riding a shitty old Trek Fuel right now which is fine for Florida trails but looking to upgrade because I'll be living in CO this summer. Really don't know all that much about bikes but I'd like to spend around 1000-1200 on something used obviously but not a total piece of shit. Not planning on doing any intense downhill at all, mostly XC type stuff, limited jumping cause I'm pretty injury prone lol and I'm mostly trying to get into biking for the workout aspect. Been looking around on pinkbike but I don't really know what to be looking for as far as components and whatnot that'll be the best bang for my limited budget. Any suggestions on brands/models/general things to look for in buying a used bike?
 
13892216:DayMan said:
Riding a shitty old Trek Fuel right now which is fine for Florida trails but looking to upgrade because I'll be living in CO this summer. Really don't know all that much about bikes but I'd like to spend around 1000-1200 on something used obviously but not a total piece of shit. Not planning on doing any intense downhill at all, mostly XC type stuff, limited jumping cause I'm pretty injury prone lol and I'm mostly trying to get into biking for the workout aspect. Been looking around on pinkbike but I don't really know what to be looking for as far as components and whatnot that'll be the best bang for my limited budget. Any suggestions on brands/models/general things to look for in buying a used bike?

Off topic question: what part of Colorado?

On topic: just because I love bikes I'm gonna shop for you
 
13892229:wpski said:
Off topic question: what part of Colorado?

On topic: just because I love bikes I'm gonna shop for you

Family friend hooked it up with an internship with Vail Resorts (fuck Vail) so I’ll either be in Broomfield at their corporate office or maybe somewhere in summit.

Thanks dude!
 
13892229:wpski said:
Off topic question: what part of Colorado?

On topic: just because I love bikes I'm gonna shop for you

Would you like to find me a solid bike for some lift access downhill that can still pedal for the resorts and trails around Salt Lake City used for $2500 or less. Or suggest me a few enduro bikes with over 160mm of travel in the frame and fork? I really need some direction because I’m afraid of enduro bikes since I’ve only ridden DH on 200mm suspension DH bikes. I’d just get a DH but feel like it would be a waste to get something I can’t pedal.
 
13892606:mmccarthy81 said:
Would you like to find me a solid bike for some lift access downhill that can still pedal for the resorts and trails around Salt Lake City used for $2500 or less. Or suggest me a few enduro bikes with over 160mm of travel in the frame and fork? I really need some direction because I’m afraid of enduro bikes since I’ve only ridden DH on 200mm suspension DH bikes. I’d just get a DH but feel like it would be a waste to get something I can’t pedal.

Yeah man I'll take a look
 
13892606:mmccarthy81 said:
Would you like to find me a solid bike for some lift access downhill that can still pedal for the resorts and trails around Salt Lake City used for $2500 or less. Or suggest me a few enduro bikes with over 160mm of travel in the frame and fork? I really need some direction because I’m afraid of enduro bikes since I’ve only ridden DH on 200mm suspension DH bikes. I’d just get a DH but feel like it would be a waste to get something I can’t pedal.

Giant reign sounds right up your ally, things a beast but you can still pedal it. Honestly I think the transition patrol would be the best for you, but almost impossible to find for under 2500. I'm still going to look what's for sale for you too.

**This post was edited on Feb 15th 2018 at 11:08:28pm
 
13892711:wpski said:
Giant reign sounds right up your ally, things a beast but you can still pedal it. Honestly I think the transition patrol would be the best for you, but almost impossible to find for under 2500. I'm still going to look what's for sale for you too.

**This post was edited on Feb 15th 2018 at 11:08:28pm

I don’t live in salt lake but am going to u of u next year. I currently live in New Jersey so I can’t buy any local pickup only listings near salt lake. I’m going to check those bikes out though, thanks for the recommendations.
 
13892606:mmccarthy81 said:
Would you like to find me a solid bike for some lift access downhill that can still pedal for the resorts and trails around Salt Lake City used for $2500 or less. Or suggest me a few enduro bikes with over 160mm of travel in the frame and fork? I really need some direction because I’m afraid of enduro bikes since I’ve only ridden DH on 200mm suspension DH bikes. I’d just get a DH but feel like it would be a waste to get something I can’t pedal.

Here you go. Brand new, 170mm/170mm, starting at $2500. Frame that's super upgrade-able as you go through parts.
https://us.yt-industries.com/shopware.php?sViewport=detail&sArticle=1944&sCategory=260
 
13892606:mmccarthy81 said:
Would you like to find me a solid bike for some lift access downhill that can still pedal for the resorts and trails around Salt Lake City used for $2500 or less. Or suggest me a few enduro bikes with over 160mm of travel in the frame and fork? I really need some direction because I’m afraid of enduro bikes since I’ve only ridden DH on 200mm suspension DH bikes. I’d just get a DH but feel like it would be a waste to get something I can’t pedal.

I’d look into a Intense Recluse or Tracer.

I might even swap my Recluse for a Tracer, but I’m not sure if I wanna have a bike that’s slightly more downhill than uphill.
 
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