Official mountain biking thread

13678242:loopie said:
I'm not sure what your experience level is some of this might be useless but here's a few tips:

Line Choice: Spend a little time walking the course and watching other people go through rock gardens and corners. You can make or lose a huge amount of time by taking the right or wrong line choice in a rock garden.

Corners are all about maximizing exit speed...you want to think: "Do I want to exit inside or out to set up best for what's after?" Brake before entering a corner not during.

Really it's all about having fun, which is super easy to do at a DH race, but my point is line choice is a subtle thing but adds up greatly over the entirety of a race run.

Thanks dude, I appreciate it! I've been dabbling in DH/freeriding my whole life, but never got super into it until this year. I'm pumped!
 
13678282:ThaLorax said:
Is it ghetto tubeless or are they UST tires? I run my tubelesd tires at 25psi and have never had a problem. Only problem I've run into is not changing the fluid so it dries out and becomes ineffective in plugging holes.

If I remember right, you're a pretty small dude though, right? So your tire pressure should be on the low side? If the guy is folding his tires and burping on turns he either needs to run a stiffer more DH oriented casing, or up the tire pressure, right?
 
13678304:californiagrown said:
If I remember right, you're a pretty small dude though, right? So your tire pressure should be on the low side? If the guy is folding his tires and burping on turns he either needs to run a stiffer more DH oriented casing, or up the tire pressure, right?

Ya, I'm a featherweight. However, if he's running tubeless while using tires and rims designed for tubes, that could be part or all of the issue too. 27lbs should be fine for most riders riding tubeless.... unless you're a big dude. I've ridden mine down to 18psi riding hard corners and jumps and haven't burped mine.
 
13662275:Bagels said:
Thoughts? Anybody gonna commit to a 1x12?


Here are my honest thoughts:

1x10 killed the front derailleur.

1x11 perfected the 1x setup with a much higher/lower range.

1x12 is flat out dumb. If a 42t out back isn't enough for you to climb pretty much anything, you need to train to harder.
 
WA people, I think I might be headed to Leavenworth this week. I'll be with non-biking friends so I'll probably just do one ride.

What ride should it be?
 
13678429:ShredAZ said:
Here are my honest thoughts:

1x10 killed the front derailleur.

1x11 perfected the 1x setup with a much higher/lower range.

1x12 is flat out dumb. If a 42t out back isn't enough for you to climb pretty much anything, you need to train to harder.

Ugh. It's not for the easier granny gear. It's to help even out an make smaller the gear ratios from smallest to largest. A 2x10 drivetrain has more gears to pick from to suit the terrain. It's top and bottom gear are likely pretty similar to my 1x setup, but it has a ton of gears on the middle. That is what the 1x12 drive train does well- allow you to more perfectly match you gear to terrain to optimize your efficiency.
 
13679766:Sklar said:
WA people, I think I might be headed to Leavenworth this week. I'll be with non-biking friends so I'll probably just do one ride.

What ride should it be?

If you can only do one ride then I would recommend hitting up Xanadu for sure. Great tech ridgeline up top leading into flowy single track. Really great mix of everything and killer views.

One of my favorite trails in Washington for sure.
 
826207.jpeg

13679836:tac0.slayer said:
If you can only do one ride then I would recommend hitting up Xanadu for sure. Great tech ridgeline up top leading into flowy single track. Really great mix of everything and killer views.

One of my favorite trails in Washington for sure.

Blurry pic for reference
 
13679836:tac0.slayer said:
If you can only do one ride then I would recommend hitting up Xanadu for sure. Great tech ridgeline up top leading into flowy single track. Really great mix of everything and killer views.

One of my favorite trails in Washington for sure.

How gnarly are the tech parts?
 
13679796:californiagrown said:
Ugh. It's not for the easier granny gear. It's to help even out an make smaller the gear ratios from smallest to largest.

Nah pal, it is just extra gears. 11 speed is a smaller top cog and additional granny gear. 12 speed is another additional granny gear. Jumps between gears are the same.
 
Does anyone know where the road biking thread went? Searched for it and needed some advice but couldn't find. I'd love to mountain bike but I live in Michigan...not exactly know for our mountain biking but we have a lot of great roads. I'm trying to get into road biking and don't even know where to start.
 
13679889:Lonely said:
Does anyone know where the road biking thread went? Searched for it and needed some advice but couldn't find. I'd love to mountain bike but I live in Michigan...not exactly know for our mountain biking but we have a lot of great roads. I'm trying to get into road biking and don't even know where to start.

Copper Harbor on the UP has some pretty fantastic mountain biking.
 
I can't wait to get home and go back to work so i can get a new bike...been looking at 2012-2013 150mm carbon bikes and there are some good deals to be had on pinkbike. I've never had a carbon frame so any specific things to look for when buying?
 
There are some woods near my house where we ride around, the trails are crap though. We were thinking of bringing some shovels and rakes and fixing it up. Some questions:

1. How do you build small kickers?

2. How do you build a berm?

3. How do you carry tools with your bike about a mile through town?
 
13679796:californiagrown said:
Ugh. It's not for the easier granny gear. It's to help even out an make smaller the gear ratios from smallest to largest. A 2x10 drivetrain has more gears to pick from to suit the terrain. It's top and bottom gear are likely pretty similar to my 1x setup, but it has a ton of gears on the middle. That is what the 1x12 drive train does well- allow you to more perfectly match you gear to terrain to optimize your efficiency.

I understand the physics behind it. I'm arguing against tangible benefit. Will you actually notice a significant improvement in efficiency from a 1x11 or a 1x10? Maybe - but nothing a little extra standing & digging couldn't cure already.

The last 2-3 years, we've been bombarded with new "standards" - some beneficial, most just noise.

It's the consumer preference that dictates their relevance. If an extra cog out back increases your fun on the trails, than power to ya! I'm just arguing you don't need it...And don't let SRAM's blase marketing convince you otherwise.
 
13680269:ShredAZ said:
I understand the physics behind it. I'm arguing against tangible benefit. Will you actually notice a significant improvement in efficiency from a 1x11 or a 1x10? Maybe - but nothing a little extra standing & digging couldn't cure already.

The last 2-3 years, we've been bombarded with new "standards" - some beneficial, most just noise.

It's the consumer preference that dictates their relevance. If an extra cog out back increases your fun on the trails, than power to ya! I'm just arguing you don't need it...And don't let SRAM's blase marketing convince you otherwise.

For XC and endoro racing folks I'm sure it makes a difference being able to optimize their gear ratios. For me, personally I need 4 gears max haha. A logging road granny gear, a jump trail gear so I don't spin out, and two medium gears for the downhill.
 
Just picked up a EVOL air sleeve for my Float X. So pumped! Anyone have any experience with those? I'm finding the factory float to be woefully inadequate. Picking up a set volume reducers as well. I wish there was a cheap data acquisition program out there, I would love to see my stress/strain graph as I make changes to the suspension.

Slowly getting the suspension all dialed in on this beast.

826300.jpeg
 
13679838:Sklar said:
How gnarly are the tech parts?

The ride line up top is pretty tech in some parts, including a killer section with a solid 200 foot granite slab ride. The rest is pretty flowy. I'd say it's not too bad for an intermediate to semi advanced all mountain rider though.

Also what kind of bike are you taking? That should probably factor into making a decicion.
 
13680297:loopie said:
Just picked up a EVOL air sleeve for my Float X. So pumped! Anyone have any experience with those? I'm finding the factory float to be woefully inadequate. Picking up a set volume reducers as well. I wish there was a cheap data acquisition program out there, I would love to see my stress/strain graph as I make changes to the suspension.

Slowly getting the suspension all dialed in on this beast.

View attachment 826300

Such a sick setup man
 
13680284:californiagrown said:
For XC and endoro racing folks I'm sure it makes a difference being able to optimize their gear ratios. For me, personally I need 4 gears max haha. A logging road granny gear, a jump trail gear so I don't spin out, and two medium gears for the downhill.

Love it!

My version's the 3 speed - standing, sitting, and walking.
 
13680254:mike759 said:
There are some woods near my house where we ride around, the trails are crap though. We were thinking of bringing some shovels and rakes and fixing it up. Some questions:

1. How do you build small kickers?

2. How do you build a berm?

3. How do you carry tools with your bike about a mile through town?

...
 
13680254:mike759 said:
There are some woods near my house where we ride around, the trails are crap though. We were thinking of bringing some shovels and rakes and fixing it up. Some questions:

1. How do you build small kickers?

2. How do you build a berm?

3. How do you carry tools with your bike about a mile through town?

13680916:mike759 said:

1) find a landing, throw a bunch of dirt in a pile. Find the area you want for a lip, make sure you have the speed, throw a bunch of dirt in a pile. Shap the landing zone and lip to your liking.

2) find an area where your trail turns. Dig the inside of it down further than the outside. Make sure it is downhill and grades towards the exit of the turn where the trail flattens to allow water to drain downhill.

3) you drive your shovels and metal rates to the dig and leave them there. Hide them so they do not get stolen. Or just ride with them over your shoulders.

It's gonna be a lot more work than you are expecting FYI. Also, there are YouTube videos.
 
13680933:californiagrown said:
1) find a landing, throw a bunch of dirt in a pile. Find the area you want for a lip, make sure you have the speed, throw a bunch of dirt in a pile. Shap the landing zone and lip to your liking.

2) find an area where your trail turns. Dig the inside of it down further than the outside. Make sure it is downhill and grades towards the exit of the turn where the trail flattens to allow water to drain downhill.

3) you drive your shovels and metal rates to the dig and leave them there. Hide them so they do not get stolen. Or just ride with them over your shoulders.

It's gonna be a lot more work than you are expecting FYI. Also, there are YouTube videos.

Also don't put features on other people's trails. If you want to build kickers and berms, build your own damn trails. Only do maintenance of other's trails.
 
13680934:californiagrown said:
Also don't put features on other people's trails. If you want to build kickers and berms, build your own damn trails. Only do maintenance of other's trails.

There is already a berm, but its almost gone, the trails are in bad shape, and there are some of what resembles kickers still there, so it's really just maintenance. Also thanks for the advice.
 
13680978:mike759 said:
There is already a berm, but its almost gone, the trails are in bad shape, and there are some of what resembles kickers still there, so it's really just maintenance. Also thanks for the advice.

Also, don't get lazy and put any rocks or logs in your jumps if you want them to last more than a few months.
 
Hey guys, I've posted on pinkbike but havent gotten much input. This thread is WAY more active. Anyway, I'm looking to really get into mountain biking.

I've always built and ridden my own dirt jumps back home, and currently own a fully rigid DJ bike. But now living in CO, the Boulder area, I'm looking to get into some real biking.

I've ridden some trail bikes, and rented DH bikes at aspen/Key before, and really looking to get myself a solid long travel trail bike. Something snappy that I could pedal efficiently and whip down some good downhill single track stuff.

I'm honestly a huge noob to the tech side of bikes as far as suspension goes, but am very handy/DYI and love to learn about something new.

If anyone could make some (affordable, college kid here) bike suggestions, I'd appreciate it!

Otherwise, videos/links/etc are solid too.

Take it easy NS
 
I need some new pedals and probably shoes for my bike, and was thinking about going clipless. I ride trails but also like to spend time at trestle bike park. Anyone with experience riding clipless in a park have any input if I should stay flats or switch it up? My concern would be that I only have 150mm of travel which, in the burlier rock gardens, or if you case a jump it is quite a bit harder to ride it out without all the extra travel of a FR or DH bike so being able to drop your foot quickly would be a nice thing.
 
13681587:J_Berg said:
Hey guys, I've posted on pinkbike but havent gotten much input. This thread is WAY more active. Anyway, I'm looking to really get into mountain biking.

I've always built and ridden my own dirt jumps back home, and currently own a fully rigid DJ bike. But now living in CO, the Boulder area, I'm looking to get into some real biking.

I've ridden some trail bikes, and rented DH bikes at aspen/Key before, and really looking to get myself a solid long travel trail bike. Something snappy that I could pedal efficiently and whip down some good downhill single track stuff.

I'm honestly a huge noob to the tech side of bikes as far as suspension goes, but am very handy/DYI and love to learn about something new.

If anyone could make some (affordable, college kid here) bike suggestions, I'd appreciate it!

Otherwise, videos/links/etc are solid too.

Take it easy NS

Budget? I would definitely check out pinkbike classifieds and whatever regional listings you have. Sounds like you need something around 140-150mm travel, look for something more recent with more playful, modern geometry, dropper post, single ring up front, etc.
 
13681587:J_Berg said:
Hey guys, I've posted on pinkbike but havent gotten much input. This thread is WAY more active. Anyway, I'm looking to really get into mountain biking.

I've always built and ridden my own dirt jumps back home, and currently own a fully rigid DJ bike. But now living in CO, the Boulder area, I'm looking to get into some real biking.

I've ridden some trail bikes, and rented DH bikes at aspen/Key before, and really looking to get myself a solid long travel trail bike. Something snappy that I could pedal efficiently and whip down some good downhill single track stuff.

I'm honestly a huge noob to the tech side of bikes as far as suspension goes, but am very handy/DYI and love to learn about something new.

If anyone could make some (affordable, college kid here) bike suggestions, I'd appreciate it!

Otherwise, videos/links/etc are solid too.

Take it easy NS

How tall are you? What's your budget? Do you already have a helmet, shoes, shorts+liner, hydration pack, tire levers, minipump, and multitool?
 
13681604:willifast said:
I need some new pedals and probably shoes for my bike, and was thinking about going clipless. I ride trails but also like to spend time at trestle bike park. Anyone with experience riding clipless in a park have any input if I should stay flats or switch it up? My concern would be that I only have 150mm of travel which, in the burlier rock gardens, or if you case a jump it is quite a bit harder to ride it out without all the extra travel of a FR or DH bike so being able to drop your foot quickly would be a nice thing.

I don't have much experience riding a bike park, but got a clipless/shoe combo last year to try it out. The shoes I got are 5.10's and honestly, after a few rides on clipless, I went back to regular platform pedals and with the 5.10's, it's amazing. I was always a little skeptical about the grippiness of 5.10's, but it's kind of ridiculous.
 
13681614:californiagrown said:
How tall are you? What's your budget? Do you already have a helmet, shoes, shorts+liner, hydration pack, tire levers, minipump, and multitool?

About 6'4, helmet, good shorts, pack, and tools. Deciding between pedal type still b/c that will decide shoes obviously
 
13681614:californiagrown said:
How tall are you? What's your budget? Do you already have a helmet, shoes, shorts+liner, hydration pack, tire levers, minipump, and multitool?

Double post, but budget would probably be around 1500. So basically something used.
 
13681626:J_Berg said:
Double post, but budget would probably be around 1500. So basically something used.

I'd try and grab a closeout stumpjumper comp 29er from last year from a shop, or maybe an enduro 29er from a few years ago used. At your height, a 29er isn't a disadvantage really. A long travel 29er is kinda the quiver killer bike for taller people.
 
13681640:californiagrown said:
I'd try and grab a closeout stumpjumper comp 29er from last year from a shop, or maybe an enduro 29er from a few years ago used. At your height, a 29er isn't a disadvantage really. A long travel 29er is kinda the quiver killer bike for taller people.

Okay, I've never ridden a 29er, I have ridden a 275, santa cruz nomad it was. I liked it a lot. Pros and cons of the next wheel size up?

Thanks for your input btw
 
13681645:J_Berg said:
Okay, I've never ridden a 29er, I have ridden a 275, santa cruz nomad it was. I liked it a lot. Pros and cons of the next wheel size up?

Thanks for your input btw

Added rollover ability increasing the forgiveness of the bike, with none of the downsides of additional travel. Much faster in a straight line, and has increased traction in corners.

Downsides- a bit gangly in really tight flat switchbacks, and slow tight trails, wheels tend to flex a bit more which isnt neccesarily a bad thing, and getting shit from folks for riding wagon wheels.

Unless you are comfy on another wheelsize right now, you likely will only notice the added rollover a big wheel provides.
 
13681620:saskskier said:
I don't have much experience riding a bike park, but got a clipless/shoe combo last year to try it out. The shoes I got are 5.10's and honestly, after a few rides on clipless, I went back to regular platform pedals and with the 5.10's, it's amazing. I was always a little skeptical about the grippiness of 5.10's, but it's kind of ridiculous.

May have misunderstood this post but are you riding clipless shoes with flat pedals? If so is there a cover or something to put over the cleats? Want to try clipless riding since I already have the pedals but I don't want to spend money on shoes I might not end up using if I don't like being clipped in so if I could use the same shoes with flats it would be perfect.
 
13681969:Mar-O said:
May have misunderstood this post but are you riding clipless shoes with flat pedals? If so is there a cover or something to put over the cleats? Want to try clipless riding since I already have the pedals but I don't want to spend money on shoes I might not end up using if I don't like being clipped in so if I could use the same shoes with flats it would be perfect.

Ha ha. Sorry about that. I've got 5.10 Maltese Falcon's and have taken the cleats off for now while I'm still deciding whether to stick with flat or clipless.

10926_400207_1302200194.jpg
 
13681971:saskskier said:
Ha ha. Sorry about that. I've got 5.10 Maltese Falcon's and have taken the cleats off for now while I'm still deciding whether to stick with flat or clipless.

10926_400207_1302200194.jpg

Thanks, read somewhere that the soles on clipless shoes would be to stiff or something to work well with flat pedal riding, may have to try and find a pair of 5.10s if thats not the case! just sucks that there is no where to try them on where I live.
 
13682096:mike759 said:
what's better to ride with vans or running sneakers?

Vans. Something with a flat bottom that will spread well over the entire pedal surface to engage the pins well.
 
Dt Swiss EX 471 vs. Stan's Flow Ex vs. WTB Frequency team i25s

Anyone have recommendations on the above rims? I'm building a wheel set on DT Swiss 350 hubs (54 T engagement, oh baby). I have been using Flows the past two seasons with no complaints, but maybe looking to switch things up.

I love DT Swiss but I can get WTB 45% off. I'm about 180 lbs with gear on and an aggressive rider (racer).
 
13684405:Slush said:
Vans, the waffle bottoms will be really helpful keeps control with the pins

Vans are better than running shoes, but the get torn up real quick and offer zero protection depending on where/how you ride.

Start on vans, but if the guy actually likes biking and wants to do it a bunch, a lair of five ten flats or clips are a good investment.
 
13684392:loopie said:
Dt Swiss EX 471 vs. Stan's Flow Ex vs. WTB Frequency team i25s

Anyone have recommendations on the above rims? I'm building a wheel set on DT Swiss 350 hubs (54 T engagement, oh baby). I have been using Flows the past two seasons with no complaints, but maybe looking to switch things up.

I love DT Swiss but I can get WTB 45% off. I'm about 180 lbs with gear on and an aggressive rider (racer).

I've got Stan's Flow Ex on DT Swiss 340's and have absolutely no complaints. I'm about 100lbs heavier than you and they've been holding up great (albeit I'm probably not as aggressive as you. Still getting back into the swing of things and figuring out what it's like to ride real trails).
 
13684617:californiagrown said:
Vans are better than running shoes, but the get torn up real quick and offer zero protection depending on where/how you ride.

Start on vans, but if the guy actually likes biking and wants to do it a bunch, a lair of five ten flats or clips are a good investment.

I have a pair of five ten flats and they are fantastic.
 
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