Official mountain biking thread

[tomPietrowski]

Yeah man, thanks! I'm really stoked on it. I had an Evil Undead but am selling the frame because I wanted something with a similar geometry and that could make the switch to 650b down the road.

What kind of bar do you have, and does it have a generous clamping area? If it does you could just slide the bar over a 1cm to get that offset you are looking for, rather than cut it down.

The only thing that might be weird (which I have no idea about, just a thought) is that you might find your turns in corners to be different for left and right turns. But, if your biomechanics dictate this set up then it might very well help you out to do it.

well I did some playing yesterday. I got a cheap 800mm bar and tried various positions for the grips. I found in the end going wider did help with the injured arm in terms of hand grip but it did fatigue my shoulder a lot more then normal. I also tried various right hand positions and I do think even will be best. I'm going to go ride today more an test more. I think 780-775 will be best but I tree any way to measure whatwould be ideal?

 

[onenerdykid]

well I did some playing yesterday. I got a cheap 800mm bar and tried various positions for the grips. I found in the end going wider did help with the injured arm in terms of hand grip but it did fatigue my shoulder a lot more then normal. I also tried various right hand positions and I do think even will be best. I'm going to go ride today more an test more. I think 780-775 will be best but I tree any way to measure whatwould be ideal?

The theory behind wide bars is similar to doing a push up- when you are in a corner or blasting through rough stuff, you are going to have more support and bike control with a wider grip location (much like doing a push up is easier with your hands further apart than closer together).

The ideal width is relative to how wide your shoulders are, and if you take a look at some of the detailed bike checks from world cup DHers you see that some of the smaller, narrower shouldered dudes run a ~760mm bar and some of the taller, broader dudes run ~800mm bars.

In general, I would argue that for enduro/freeride/downhill you should have something wider than shoulder width, as this will put your upper body in a stronger position to attack corners and rough sections of trail. If you have an 800mm bar, you can easily experiment with what strikes a balance between a wide/strong position & comfortable given your old man shoulder

 

[tomPietrowski]

The theory behind wide bars is similar to doing a push up- when you are in a corner or blasting through rough stuff, you are going to have more support and bike control with a wider grip location (much like doing a push up is easier with your hands further apart than closer together).

The ideal width is relative to how wide your shoulders are, and if you take a look at some of the detailed bike checks from world cup DHers you see that some of the smaller, narrower shouldered dudes run a ~760mm bar and some of the taller, broader dudes run ~800mm bars.

In general, I would argue that for enduro/freeride/downhill you should have something wider than shoulder width, as this will put your upper body in a stronger position to attack corners and rough sections of trail. If you have an 800mm bar, you can easily experiment with what strikes a balance between a wide/strong position & comfortable given your old man shoulder

Haha yeah I had read that shoulder width is a good starting point, but all the guides I found online used like 650mm bars so I was not sure how it translated.

I like the feel of the 800mm width but it's massive for the trails I'm riding. I actually dont actually want to go too wide if I can help it as some of the trails here get tight fast so if I can find a happy balance that would be good.

I did did like how it opened the cheat up more though just need to fin a happy medium of good hand grip but no shoulder pain.

Ill go go throw my old body down some mountains today and see what works.

 

[onenerdykid]

^ you should also check out bars of the same width, but with different rises, upsweeps, and backsweeps.

Just like boot geometry, handlebar geometry can be a real killer or savior.

For me & my style of riding, 5 degrees of upsweep and 7 degrees of backsweep is perfect. But some prefer less upsweep (usually around 4) and more backsweep (usually around 9).

These 2 different combos feel super different and will also place your hands & shoulders in different areas. One might work better than the other for you.

 

[tomPietrowski]

^ you should also check out bars of the same width, but with different rises, upsweeps, and backsweeps.

Just like boot geometry, handlebar geometry can be a real killer or savior.

For me & my style of riding, 5 degrees of upsweep and 7 degrees of backsweep is perfect. But some prefer less upsweep (usually around 4) and more backsweep (usually around 9).

These 2 different combos feel super different and will also place your hands & shoulders in different areas. One might work better than the other for you.

Yeah that is somthing I found too. The chromag fubar I had did have more back sweep and I wonder if that was part of the issue with grip. Perhaps I needed a straighter hold. I don't like the lack of rise on this bar though so I will probably change again once I have found a width I like.

 

[onenerdykid]

Yeah that is somthing I found too. The chromag fubar I had did have more back sweep and I wonder if that was part of the issue with grip. Perhaps I needed a straighter hold. I don't like the lack of rise on this bar though so I will probably change again once I have found a width I like.

You should look to the Renthal Fatbar (made in both aluminum and carbon, same geometry). One degree straighter and comes in a bunch of rise options. I have the alu version on my dh bike and the carbon version on my enduro bike. I'd like to try the carbon version on my dh bike and see if it actually feels damper as claimed, which might also help you.

Also check out grips from Ergon. I haven't used them yet, but I have friends that swear by them. Think of them as footbeds for your hands

 

[tomPietrowski]

You should look to the Renthal Fatbar (made in both aluminum and carbon, same geometry). One degree straighter and comes in a bunch of rise options. I have the alu version on my dh bike and the carbon version on my enduro bike. I'd like to try the carbon version on my dh bike and see if it actually feels damper as claimed, which might also help you.

Also check out grips from Ergon. I haven't used them yet, but I have friends that swear by them. Think of them as footbeds for your hands

Yeah I have been looking at the fatbar. Someone was selling one here for $30 but i missed it.

So the carbon is supposed to be damper then the aluminium? I would go for that if its the case.

I have seen those ergon grips and I did consider them. Currently I have those sram single clamp foam grips. I like that they are soft and damp and also being single clamp lets me get my hand really far out. They suck in the wet though.

Right i should go actually ride

 

[onenerdykid]

Yeah I have been looking at the fatbar. Someone was selling one here for $30 but i missed it.

So the carbon is supposed to be damper then the aluminium? I would go for that if its the case.

I have seen those ergon grips and I did consider them. Currently I have those sram single clamp foam grips. I like that they are soft and damp and also being single clamp lets me get my hand really far out. They suck in the wet though.

Right i should go actually ride

Go ride! But when you come back, peep these:

More info on Ergon:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/ergon-ge1-review-2015.html

Renthal Fatbar Carbon (specifically their talk about "bar feel"):
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/first-look-renthal-fatbar-carbon-2014.html

Spank Vibrocore bars might also be good for you:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/spank-spike-800-race-vibrocore-handlebar-review-2014.html

 

[tomPietrowski]

Go ride! But when you come back, peep these:

More info on Ergon:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/ergon-ge1-review-2015.html

Renthal Fatbar Carbon (specifically their talk about "bar feel"):
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/first-look-renthal-fatbar-carbon-2014.html

Spank Vibrocore bars might also be good for you:
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/spank-spike-800-race-vibrocore-handlebar-review-2014.html

Well today's ride was pretty interesting.

The bar I was using today was 800mm but 5degrees up and 5 back, so pretty much straight. The chromag I had was 5 up and 8 back.

I found i really liked the wider hand position, especially climbing but the bar being so straight have me real issues reachin the levers. It forced my fore arm way to straight and I had to adjust the levers in to reach. Even then it sucke over the course of a longer dh.

So I think I have decided I like wider but I need more backsweep.

The renthal looks good. It's not quite as much back as the fubar but it's the same as the boobar I use last season whic seemed to work.

I do like the sound of the carbon too but it's so expensive. Not sure I can justify that. But I was lookin on cr an the nukeproof bars seem like an ok option. They have 6 up and 9 back which potentially could be awsome for my old man arms but I can't try one without ordering. They are only like $35 though an as much as I want a damper bar I am pretty skint. I wish I could go demo bars I never realized it makes such a difference.

If any one is interested the trail I rode today (howler)was awesome and sucked all at once. The dh is sweet 9-10min of steep alpine style riding before dropping into the trees but the way up sucks so bad. It is always said to be one of the worst rides up in whistler but I had forgotten. It took me 1hour 6min wit only 3 mins rest time. It never stops goin up and at some points it 33% up. I rode it as it's a potential for the ews but I hope to god it's not in there haha.

 

[division.bell]

mine should be here Friday

Confirmed.

The stoke is through the roof, tomorrow can't come soon enough.

 

[Carl_the_Llama]

It looks like I might have the chance to snag a Norco Range through my local bikepark, as they are doing an end of season sellout soon... An experience/info/thoughts on buying through a bikepark? Or on the bike itself? It would be the alu 7.2 pike version. I think for around 1500/1800 from what I understand... Thanks guys!

 

[~Gotama~]

Alright, I figured out that the Zee derailleur is a bad idea, because its for minimal pedaling. who knew. So my UPDATED idea of what to put on my Cannondale F5 goes something like this:

Shimano Deore Shadow+ 10 speed

Shimano SLX RapidFire shifter

Raceface 104mm 32T chainring, single

Shimano XT chain

Obviously I'm no biking expert so hopefully someone can tell me if this looks any good or not.

 

[onenerdykid]

Alright, I figured out that the Zee derailleur is a bad idea, because its for minimal pedaling. who knew. So my UPDATED idea of what to put on my Cannondale F5 goes something like this:

Shimano Deore Shadow+ 10 speed

Shimano SLX RapidFire shifter

Raceface 104mm 32T chainring, single

Shimano XT chain

Obviously I'm no biking expert so hopefully someone can tell me if this looks any good or not.

I've never heard that the Zee dereailleur is for minimal pedaling... DH derailleurs undergo tons of pedaling so I'm not sure I understand that statement.

I wouldn't say a Zee is the best match for your bike or gruppo (as you've listed) but as long as it is the right length for the cassette range you have, you should be totally fine. If you end up going with the Deore, it will still be a well functioning derailleur though.

 

[~Gotama~]

I've never heard that the Zee dereailleur is for minimal pedaling... DH derailleurs undergo tons of pedaling so I'm not sure I understand that statement.

I wouldn't say a Zee is the best match for your bike or gruppo (as you've listed) but as long as it is the right length for the cassette range you have, you should be totally fine. If you end up going with the Deore, it will still be a well functioning derailleur though.

"Minimal pedaling" is a misstatement; I mean the Zee's intended use is for bikes that aren't designed for climbing. I don't really know about the mechanics of how a bike works or why the Zee is designed for that purpose and not normal XC riding. What I know is that I keep busting my jockey wheels, and the Zee sits a lot higher off the ground than most derailleurs I've seen, which seems like a good thing. The other thing I know is that every components company makes most of their derailleurs with long, low hanging jockey wheels, so there must be a reason for that. I just don't know what it is.

 

[saskskier]

"Minimal pedaling" is a misstatement; I mean the Zee's intended use is for bikes that aren't designed for climbing. I don't really know about the mechanics of how a bike works or why the Zee is designed for that purpose and not normal XC riding. What I know is that I keep busting my jockey wheels, and the Zee sits a lot higher off the ground than most derailleurs I've seen, which seems like a good thing. The other thing I know is that every components company makes most of their derailleurs with long, low hanging jockey wheels, so there must be a reason for that. I just don't know what it is.

The reason it has such a short cage is so it doesn't get bashed on rocks and stuff while riding rough terrain, be it downhill, ferried, all mountain or wherever the heck you are. The Zee derailleur (and rest of the Zee groupo) can be used uphill just as well as downhill, the biggest sacrifice likely being weight. I know of lots of people who use Zee stuff for all mountain/enduro style riding (which definitely includes a ton of climbing) without any complaints.

 

[~Gotama~]

The reason it has such a short cage is so it doesn't get bashed on rocks and stuff while riding rough terrain, be it downhill, ferried, all mountain or wherever the heck you are. The Zee derailleur (and rest of the Zee groupo) can be used uphill just as well as downhill, the biggest sacrifice likely being weight. I know of lots of people who use Zee stuff for all mountain/enduro style riding (which definitely includes a ton of climbing) without any complaints.

Okay cool. So if my main concern is not getting my shit bashed when I fall off skinnies, I should get the Zee rather than the long caged Deore, right?

 

[GANDALF]

threw together some clips from some Bellingham trails

[video]https://www.newschoolers.com/watch/776307.0/PNW-Downhill-biking?c=6&o=10&t=6#Plsbdx1OJMxgM6b3.97[/video]

 

[LC.]

Okay cool. So if my main concern is not getting my shit bashed when I fall off skinnies, I should get the Zee rather than the long caged Deore, right?

Zee for 11-36. XT medium cage if you insist on one of those big cog extensions. Don't overthink it.

I have a Zee, I ride up an down. I hit it on stuff occasionally. It has been flawless for three years on two different bikes. Just don't get the Zee shifter.

 

[UphillIce]

...the Zee sits a lot higher off the ground than most derailleurs I've seen, which seems like a good thing. The other thing I know is that every components company makes most of their derailleurs with long, low hanging jockey wheels, so there must be a reason for that. I just don't know what it is.

The reason it has such a short cage is so it doesn't get bashed on rocks and stuff while riding rough terrain

Short cages are good for exactly what saskskier says: staying out of the way. Longer cages are necessary when you want to have a wider range on your cassette. If your derailleur is going to take up a lot of chain. When you're running a three ring set up in the front (or two with big spacing) and a wide cassette in the back to get granny gears and a decent top end, your derailleur is going to have to take up a lot of chain at times so you need a medium or long cage model. Downhill bikes don't need granny gears, so they don't need as widely spaced casettes and can use shorter more compact derailleurs.

The Zee has a chainwrap capacity (basically how much chain it can take up) of 25 teeth. A long cage XT derailleur can take up 43t.

 

[division.bell]

I hear it's possible to even run 42t cogs on short cage mechs.

While possible, the drivetrain does not run ideally/smoothly when running a short cage derailleur with a 40/42 tooth cassette.

Not worth the hassles if you are going to run a 40t+ cassette range in my opinion. Get a derailleur that is intended for the range in use and call it good.

 

[LC.]

While possible, the drivetrain does not run ideally/smoothly when running a short cage derailleur with a 40/42 tooth cassette.

This. 11-36 has only barely worked with my Zee in two different frames. I have to run extra B-tension for it to work in the 11t cog. I'm going to run it into the ground then either get the same again or XT 11 speed next summer, depending on cash available.

 

[~Gotama~]

My cassette is 11-36, so I think there shouldn't be a problem in that regard.

 

[division.bell]

My cassette is 11-36, so I think there shouldn't be a problem in that regard.

Re-read the post directly above your last one. He's running into issues with a 11-36 and a short cage.

Why not just pick up a SRAM X7 type 2 rear derailleur that mates with your existing shifter?

In my experiences the SRAM clutches are way smoother than Shimano's and don't affect the feel of the shifter (stiffens the lever throw) like the Shimano rear derailleurs do when the clutch is engaged.

 

[daannnnieel]

I have the 6" Kashima 36 on my Turner 5 Spot and a 7" Rockshox Solo Air on Giant Faith. I like them both a lot. The 36 is going to be lighter, but the Solo might possibly maybe be the slightest bit more plush and have a smoother bottom end to its travel. I really like both though. I will say the thru-axle release system on both annoy the snit out of me. The fox always needs lube and its easy to forget to lock the sinches down, while the simpler rockshox one always has the lever flopping around when I ride rocky terrain (which is nearly always since its my DH bike).

Just my 2 cents.

I think fox has solved this issue on newer models. I have a 2013 36 TALAS

i have the non-kashima 36 van i believe, 2011 or 2012. i know i can send them to fox and just get the kashima coated stanchions. might look into this again...

 

[ShredAZ]

"Minimal pedaling" is a misstatement; I mean the Zee's intended use is for bikes that aren't designed for climbing. I don't really know about the mechanics of how a bike works or why the Zee is designed for that purpose and not normal XC riding. What I know is that I keep busting my jockey wheels, and the Zee sits a lot higher off the ground than most derailleurs I've seen, which seems like a good thing. The other thing I know is that every components company makes most of their derailleurs with long, low hanging jockey wheels, so there must be a reason for that. I just don't know what it is.

False sir!

I've been riding a Zee on my 1x10 setup for almost a year and it's been the best upgrade to date.

I ride an HT out here in the AZ desert. All I do it pedal and climb...no problem!

Make sure you get the right version for your application.

There's DH and FR. If you' have I think over a 28t rear casette, you need the FR.

The short cage + clutch is a freaking dream. Silent operation and crisp shifting.

 

[ShredAZ]

My cassette is 11-36, so I think there shouldn't be a problem in that regard.

And note, my setup is 11-36 XT cassette with a 32 NW RaceFace chain ring.

We're pretty much running the same thing.

 

[GANDALF]

Rode for a couple hours today after I got done filming At Stevens pass. Pretty sweet! Sooooo dry tho. Sandpit. I fell off the side of the first step up on PBR and tumbled into a tree and tweaked my bad knee. So that's dumb

 

[MacMahoooon]

This is what it looks like after lapping fresh cut trails at a mountain bike festival. The Process is gonna need a lot of love after this weekend

 

[division.bell]

If any of you 26" guys are looking for a frame, fork, wheels, or even complete bike, let me know. Now that my 16 Stumpy is built I will likely be selling or parting out my Knolly Endorphin in the very near future.

Hit me up for details on what's available if anyone is interested.

 

[theabortionator]

If anyone is in upstate NY
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Oak-Mountain-Terrain-Park/226304827506379?ref=aymt_homepage_panel

My friend Eli has been killing it the last few years building trails up there. Another friend Sam has been putting a lot of time in more recently as well as others. They've fundraised to get excavators at times, supplies, etc, and almost all the work on the trails was hand work by volunteers.

Unfortunately they're only open on sundays but there's 6 trails that are finished now I think. Some pretty solid lines.

I don't think it's to pricey, and it's lift accessed obviously.

Eli testing his trails

Still hitting his trails in the winter

Sorry for scroll bombin.

Had to share

 

[californiagrown]

If any of you 26" guys are looking for a frame, fork, wheels, or even complete bike, let me know. Now that my 16 Stumpy is built I will likely be selling or parting out my Knolly Endorphin in the very near future.

Hit me up for details on what's available if anyone is interested.

How much for a rear wheel? I might be interested if I can't get a new bike before my own rear wheel totally dissolves haha.

Bike porn of said bike would help...

 

[loopie]

This is what it looks like after lapping fresh cut trails at a mountain bike festival. The Process is gonna need a lot of love after this weekend

View attachment 776438

let some air out of your fork yo! Only using ~70% travel.

I luv dat bike, have the same one in green

 

[byubound]

How much for a rear wheel? I might be interested if I can't get a new bike before my own rear wheel totally dissolves haha.

Bike porn of said bike would help...

Axle size? I have a qr one that you can have for like 25 bucks. Pretty much invincible, but kinda heavy.

 

[division.bell]

How much for a rear wheel? I might be interested if I can't get a new bike before my own rear wheel totally dissolves haha.

Bike porn of said bike would help...

Well I'd prefer to sell the wheels as a pair so I don't get stuck with just a front. But they're Chris King hubs (15mm front and 12x142mm rear, both in pewter) mounted to Stan's Flow rims.

Should be plenty of pics of that bike in this thread or check my profile I may have some there. I will post some though once I get back to my computer.

I do have some inexpensive Mavic rims mounted to Shimano hubs too. QR front and rear axles if that's what your bike needs.

How bout upgrading that Stumpy with a Pike...?

 

[californiagrown]

Well I'd prefer to sell the wheels as a pair so I don't get stuck with just a front. But they're Chris King hubs (15mm front and 12x142mm rear, both in pewter) mounted to Stan's Flow rims.

Should be plenty of pics of that bike in this thread or check my profile I may have some there. I will post some though once I get back to my computer.

I do have some inexpensive Mavic rims mounted to Shimano hubs too. QR front and rear axles if that's what your bike needs.

How bout upgrading that Stumpy with a Pike...?

How bout upgrading this stumpy to a new stumpy

Im going to get either a Process 153, Reign, or some variation of a stumpy/enduro by the end of august most likely. My current stumpy is frankly beat to shit so i might just keep it as a backup bike, and having an extra 26" rear wouldnt suck.

Lemme see how this iteration of spoke replacement goes and ill get back to you about those wheels haha (yes i know the definition of insanity).

 

[division.bell]

How bout upgrading this stumpy to a new stumpy

Im going to get either a Process 153, Reign, or some variation of a stumpy/enduro by the end of august most likely. My current stumpy is frankly beat to shit so i might just keep it as a backup bike, and having an extra 26" rear wouldnt suck.

Lemme see how this iteration of spoke replacement goes and ill get back to you about those wheels haha (yes i know the definition of insanity).

The new Stumpy is amazing...just had to say it again. Got mine out for its first ride today and it was a fucking blast. There are some good deals out there right now as we move towards the 16 models though too.

I was thinking that I do have an overbuilt and burly 26" wheel set that's sitting around too. It's the SUV wheel set from Sun Ringle. I've never had any issues with spokes breaking, wheels going out of true, etc. Its also a front and rear QR wheel set, but I'd be willing to part with just the rear or both wheels if you're interested.

 

[californiagrown]

The new Stumpy is amazing...just had to say it again. Got mine out for its first ride today and it was a fucking blast. There are some good deals out there right now as we move towards the 16 models though too.

I was thinking that I do have an overbuilt and burly 26" wheel set that's sitting around too. It's the SUV wheel set from Sun Ringle. I've never had any issues with spokes breaking, wheels going out of true, etc. Its also a front and rear QR wheel set, but I'd be willing to part with just the rear or both wheels if you're interested.

Well, going for a ride at tiger tomorrow with a coworker who races DH so following him around should put a hurting on my wheels. If i happen to blow em up, ill be giving you a PM haha!

 

[division.bell]

Well, going for a ride at tiger tomorrow with a coworker who races DH so following him around should put a hurting on my wheels. If i happen to blow em up, ill be giving you a PM haha!

What time are you heading out to Tiger tomorrow? I was wondering if the recent rain would have helped out the blown out shit on Fully Rigid and Joyride a bit. Didn't seem to be much rain last night, but better than nothing as it did help out in portions of the trails I rode today. Still waiting for enough rain to get Tokul back open though...

 

[MacMahoooon]

let some air out of your fork yo! Only using ~70% travel.

I luv dat bike, have the same one in green

That lap only used 70% travel on the smooth flow trail. On the more tech stuff its perfectly tuned for full stroke.

 

[FuckAllOfYou]

What time are you heading out to Tiger tomorrow? I was wondering if the recent rain would have helped out the blown out shit on Fully Rigid and Joyride a bit. Didn't seem to be much rain last night, but better than nothing as it did help out in portions of the trails I rode today. Still waiting for enough rain to get Tokul back open though...

only in the PNW do you have to wait FOR rain to open a trail.

was at Mammoth for nationals, got to rip some of their trails (besides the course)... good shit out there. never ridden so much moon dust and sand though

 

[division.bell]

only in the PNW do you have to wait FOR rain to open a trail.

was at Mammoth for nationals, got to rip some of their trails (besides the course)... good shit out there. never ridden so much moon dust and sand though

The fire danger this dry summer has had so far has limited access to certain areas. That trail system is on a private working forest so their rules stand. Been closed since the end of June with not enough rain in the forecast to be optimistic of a reopening anytime soon.

I've made deeper turns on my bike this summer in the sand and moon dust than I did on my skis this past "winter".

 

[Sklar]

http://www.tetongravity.com/video/b...segment#ooid=RsYjRldjqFLkgJR2hn_FSPdpIZN-HniX

 

[rtl32]

[video]https://www.newschoolers.com/watch/776745.0/vid-avi[/video]

watch me get reaallllly loose on summer "dirt". No rain for like a week here so everything's super dry and free



drop off I built earlier today, legs are 36 inches long and it will be put on a slope so it will be more drop than jump! The landing drops down really fast because it's really steep so I'm hoping to put it before the slope falls away, making lip to landing about 8 or 9 feet.

sorry about the snapchat stuff.. forgot to take a different picture

 

[loopie]

My ride



Riding my ride

[video]https://www.newschoolers.com/watch/776858.0/Ride[/video]

 

[division.bell]

^ love that color on the Kona.

I'll post up my new bike when we hit the next page.

 

[californiagrown]

tiger is good and fixing to be even better this weekend. there are some rather large holes that have developed though, so stay on point haha.

Rode a too small nomad on OTG though and it was freakishly fast and easy to hold a line. I dont know if i can go back to a non-super bike haha.

 

[division.bell]

Rode a too small nomad on OTG though and it was freakishly fast and easy to hold a line. I dont know if i can go back to a non-super bike haha.

Those new Nomads are awesome bikes. I'm seriously considering one of those or a 2016 Enduro once I sell my Knolly. That is if I don't get pressured into getting a DH bike.

 

[californiagrown]

Those new Nomads are awesome bikes. I'm seriously considering one of those or a 2016 Enduro once I sell my Knolly. That is if I don't get pressured into getting a DH bike.

It was good getting on one, because ive been worried that these enduro super bikes werent very playful, but instead were more point and charge. the nomad is apparently very point and charge but i had absolutely no problem throwing it around and playfully popping off stuff.

makes me very willing to drop a chunk of change on one of these.

 

[division.bell]

It was good getting on one, because ive been worried that these enduro super bikes werent very playful, but instead were more point and charge. the nomad is apparently very point and charge but i had absolutely no problem throwing it around and playfully popping off stuff.

makes me very willing to drop a chunk of change on one of these.

The Nomad for sure gets sluggish at slow speeds/mellow terrain, but a quick look at the geometry tells you why. Once the speeds pick up, that bike comes alive though. Much like the big boy skis on the winter side of things.

The higher end 2016 Enduros will get the new Ohlin's shock in place of the Cane Creek Inline, which like all of Cane Creek's DB Air shocks have been one second away from failure. This should be a huge upgrade for that already awesome bike.

So many good bikes out there these days, decisions can be hard to make, but incredibly difficult to fuck up entirely.

 

[californiagrown]

The Nomad for sure gets sluggish at slow speeds/mellow terrain, but a quick look at the geometry tells you why. Once the speeds pick up, that bike comes alive though. Much like the big boy skis on the winter side of things.

The higher end 2016 Enduros will get the new Ohlin's shock in place of the Cane Creek Inline, which like all of Cane Creek's DB Air shocks have been one second away from failure. This should be a huge upgrade for that already awesome bike.

So many good bikes out there these days, decisions can be hard to make, but incredibly difficult to fuck up entirely.

Haha you are one finicky guy if you think the nomad is sluggish anywhere haha.

On the otger hand maybe I'm just a bumpkin when it comes to bikes.

All I know was the nomad was better every where than my 2011 stumpy haha. A lot better.