Official mountain biking thread

[division.bell]

Haha you are one finicky guy if you think the nomad is sluggish anywhere haha.

On the otger hand maybe I'm just a bumpkin when it comes to bikes.

All I know was the nomad was better every where than my 2011 stumpy haha. A lot better.

To be fair, I did ride the Nomad on some pretty uninspiring terrain regardless of what bike I was on.

It still wouldn't be my choice for some of the more traditional and tight/twisty single track we have out here. If I only rode Tiger or Tokul or Galbraith, it would be a no brainer, but I do climb a lot and prefer something more nimble and efficient for such days.

 

[onenerdykid]

Ahhhh Schladming hero dirt... so much better than normal bike park kitty litter.

 

[californiagrown]

To be fair, I did ride the Nomad on some pretty uninspiring terrain regardless of what bike I was on.

It still wouldn't be my choice for some of the more traditional and tight/twisty single track we have out here. If I only rode Tiger or Tokul or Galbraith, it would be a no brainer, but I do climb a lot and prefer something more nimble and efficient for such days.

That's the big reason I never went to a demo day at duthie. There is like 2 20 yard sections in the entire park that mimic something I normally ride- which isn't even very rowdy haha.

Outhouse at tokul west is the funnest trail I've ever ridden. Its perfect for me right now. A bike that can excel there as its sweet spot but also be taken on shuttle laps at exit 38 or bham and also for a quick ride at big Finn is what I'm after.

It might have to do with tires too. The nomad had nearly new high roller 2s and felt like it was on rails compared to my bike.

 

[loopie]

Got a question about a rear derailuer. I'm running a shimano zee and can get it to shift through all the gears fine. When in the largest cog (easiest gear) and I back pedal quickly the chain immediately drops down half the cogs. The actual derailuer isn't moving but the chain just drops and this only happens when I back pedal (works fine pedaling forward).

Any thoughts how to fix this?

 

[onenerdykid]

Got a question about a rear derailuer. I'm running a shimano zee and can get it to shift through all the gears fine. When in the largest cog (easiest gear) and I back pedal quickly the chain immediately drops down half the cogs. The actual derailuer isn't moving but the chain just drops and this only happens when I back pedal (works fine pedaling forward).

Any thoughts how to fix this?

what is your front chainring setup? Single, double, or triple? And if it is not single, what ring is this happening in?

 

[loopie]

what is your front chainring setup? Single, double, or triple? And if it is not single, what ring is this happening in?

single ring up front. It's a 30T Race Face narrow wide. The rear cassette is a Shimano 10 sp (11-36T), if that helps

 

[onenerdykid]

single ring up front. It's a 30T Race Face narrow wide. The rear cassette is a Shimano 10 sp (11-36T), if that helps

Without seeing a picture of what you are describing, it sounds like your rear derailleur limit screws might be out of whack. There are 2 screws on your derailleur that set the maximum the derailleur can travel, one for the bottom of the cassette and one for the top. If the one that sets the bottom (smallest cog) is too aggressive, it can pull your chain down.

When your chain is on the smallest cog, the derailleur pulley should be directly under the cog, not further from it. Perhaps check a youtube video on adjusting a Shimano rear derailleur and see if yours are at least set properly. This could be what is causing it.

 

[loopie]

Without seeing a picture of what you are describing, it sounds like your rear derailleur limit screws might be out of whack. There are 2 screws on your derailleur that set the maximum the derailleur can travel, one for the bottom of the cassette and one for the top. If the one that sets the bottom (smallest cog) is too aggressive, it can pull your chain down.

When your chain is on the smallest cog, the derailleur pulley should be directly under the cog, not further from it. Perhaps check a youtube video on adjusting a Shimano rear derailleur and see if yours are at least set properly. This could be what is causing it.

Yes I think you are right something to do with the limits. Just not totally sure. Releasing the cable tension and manually running through the gears the limits appear to be set correctly. Everything about the shifting works just back pedaling in the easiest gear it drops.

IDK you have to back pedal faster than I ever would actually riding to get the chain to drop so it's not too big of a deal. Just annoying it's not working as intended.

Thanks for the help.

 

[californiagrown]

Yes I think you are right something to do with the limits. Just not totally sure. Releasing the cable tension and manually running through the gears the limits appear to be set correctly. Everything about the shifting works just back pedaling in the easiest gear it drops.

IDK you have to back pedal faster than I ever would actually riding to get the chain to drop so it's not too big of a deal. Just annoying it's not working as intended.

Thanks for the help.

Why are you back pedaling?

 

[LC.]

Any thoughts how to fix this?

Run extra B-tension.

 

[division.bell]

If the one that sets the bottom (smallest cog) is too aggressive, it can pull your chain down.

When your chain is on the smallest cog, the derailleur pulley should be directly under the cog, not further from it.

He was talking about being in the lowest gear (largest cassette cog) and having it drop a gear when backpedaling. That would be the Low limit screw being too aggressive. Right idea though.

Getting back to the limit adjustments, this is a simplified breakdown from Shimano's tech documents about the pulley/cog alignments for the proper low and high limit adjustments.

 

[loopie]

Why are you back pedaling?

I'm back pedaling on the bike mechanic stand. Just something I noticed. Not too big of a deal but still means something ain't right with the mech.

He was talking about being in the lowest gear (largest cassette cog) and having it drop a gear when backpedaling. That would be the Low limit screw being too aggressive. Right idea though.

Getting back to the limit adjustments, this is a simplified breakdown from Shimano's tech documents about the pulley/cog alignments for the proper low and high limit adjustments.

I was looking for this exact picture for a while today! Thank you. The Zee user manual sucks balls.

 

[loopie]

Also another dumb question. Are cable tension and H/L limits independent adjustments? Should I only make limit adjustments with cable tension released or does it not matter?

For the life of me I can't figure out which direction of the barrel adjuster on the rear shifter creates more tension. Counter clock wise or clock wise?

I'm super bad at this kind of stuff. Can you tell?

 

[division.bell]

Also another dumb question. Are cable tension and H/L limits independent adjustments? Should I only make limit adjustments with cable tension released or does it not matter?

For the life of me I can't figure out which direction of the barrel adjuster on the rear shifter creates more tension. Counter clock wise or clock wise?

I'm super bad at this kind of stuff. Can you tell?

Limit adjustments are independent of tension adjustments. You can set the limits without a cable attached to your derailleur.

Barrel adjusters typically screw in towards the derailleur or shifter clockwise. That is "righty tighty". Tightening the barrel adjuster all of the way to the right will release tension on the cable. This is true because loosening, or extending the barrel adjuster with counter clockwise turns pulls on the cable and adds tension.

Does that help at all?

 

[kirbstopper]

Also another dumb question. Are cable tension and H/L limits independent adjustments? Should I only make limit adjustments with cable tension released or does it not matter?

For the life of me I can't figure out which direction of the barrel adjuster on the rear shifter creates more tension. Counter clock wise or clock wise?

I'm super bad at this kind of stuff. Can you tell?

Set your high gear(smallest cog) limit screw first without cable tension. Your derailleur should sit naturally in your highest gear without the cable attached with the correct limit screw setting. WInd your barrel adjust all the way in(you are tightening the knob to the right) except for a few clicks. Set your cable tension. Shift up to the lowest gear(largest cogs). Set your last limit screw. Then make sure you have the correct amount of b-tension. To do this make sure the upper jockey wheel of your derailleur cage is not resting on the largest cog and has enough clearance. Then fine tune your shifting with barrel adjust.

 

[kirbstopper]

Yes I think you are right something to do with the limits. Just not totally sure. Releasing the cable tension and manually running through the gears the limits appear to be set correctly. Everything about the shifting works just back pedaling in the easiest gear it drops.

IDK you have to back pedal faster than I ever would actually riding to get the chain to drop so it's not too big of a deal. Just annoying it's not working as intended.

Thanks for the help.

Also depending on how you set your chainrings up on your cranks, the chain line could be off. You may need to space your bb cups differently if you have a threaded bb. Or you can get longer chainring bolts and spacers and run your n/w ring spaced inward to create a straighter chain line for press fit bb's.

 

[onenerdykid]

He was talking about being in the lowest gear (largest cassette cog) and having it drop a gear when backpedaling. That would be the Low limit screw being too aggressive. Right idea though.

Getting back to the limit adjustments, this is a simplified breakdown from Shimano's tech documents about the pulley/cog alignments for the proper low and high limit adjustments.

Yeah, I was simply telling him what to look for to see if it is adjusted correctly, like your picture shows.

 

[ThaLorax]

THis weekend was the Demo weekend here at Snowmass. A lot of the bikes I wanted to ride were gone the whole time, but I got to ride the Transition Scout, Transition Patrol and the Yeti SB-5c. All were super fun bikes in their own ways. THe Patrol was a stable as fuck enduro/downhill slayer and both the Scout and the SB5c were trail destroyers. THe SB-5c was one of the fastest bikes I've ever ridden and corners like a bat out of hell.

 

[Sklar]

I was too hungover to deal with slippery roots and rocks at Tiger today. The rain should help though.

 

[~Gotama~]

Surprise surprise. I've spent the last 3 hours installing my new Zee derailleur, and I cannot figure out how to shift it into the lowest gear (biggest sprocket). The B tension is as tight as it goes, and the low gear limit is as loose as it goes. A problem I'm noticing is that the little flat piece of metal at the bottom of the jockey wheel assembly starts rubbing the chain in second to lowest gear, and then bites hard if I try to shift to the lowest gear.

It is also consistently skipping the 4th gear, although the other 8 shift smoothly. I'm assuming that if I get it worked out so that it can shift onto the largest sprocket, the missed 4th gear will resolve itself. Any advice?

 

[byubound]

Finished watching unreal, such a good movie. The brown pow bit was filthy. Acting was pretty awful, but what can you expect from mountain bikers. 8/10

Heading to duthie to ride my bicycle.

 

[~Gotama~]

This. 11-36 has only barely worked with my Zee in two different frames. I have to run extra B-tension for it to work in the 11t cog. I'm going to run it into the ground then either get the same again or XT 11 speed next summer, depending on cash available.

So let me get this straight. At first everything worked for you accept for the the smallest cog (hardest gear)? Because for me, my small cog was the first thing I got working properly, and its the big one (36t) that doesn't seem to want to go.

 

[Blake.P]

whoops. walked into the shop to get yet another tube (4 pinch flats this month is getting old), walked out with 2 new continental trail king 2.4 tires (was running 2.25 before) on a full tubeless setup, along with new cables and housings. definitely worth it

 

[LC.]

So let me get this straight. At first everything worked for you accept for the the smallest cog (hardest gear)? Because for me, my small cog was the first thing I got working properly, and its the big one (36t) that doesn't seem to want to go.

It all worked fine but if the b-tension was set exactly right for the biggest cog then the chain was a too slack in the smallest sprocket. Running extra b-tension gave a little tension in the smallest cog.

I switched to a new chain on my new frame last week and took a link out of my chain so that everything is a little tighter and I don't have to run extra b-tension any more. If I bottom out in the largest sprocket I'll do some damage so I just have to be careful of that now.

Check that you're bolting the derailleur onto your frame correctly. I've seen that done wrong, which puts the whole thing at the wrong angle. Hard to explain, look up some pictures and/or ask someone experienced.

 

[~Gotama~]

Check that you're bolting the derailleur onto your frame correctly. I've seen that done wrong, which puts the whole thing at the wrong angle. QUOTE]

I've never felt so incompetent. Thank you.

 

[LC.]

I've never felt so incompetent. Thank you.

Wait, that was it? Haha, don't worry about it. I put mine back on wrong last week but realised when the chain was way slacker than it used to be!

Correct:

Incorrect:

 

[~Gotama~]

Wait, that was it? Haha, don't worry about it. I put mine back on wrong last week but realised when the chain was way slacker than it used to be!

Correct:

Incorrect:

That was it. I had to go to work this morning so I didn't have time to setup it up beyond fixing the way it was screwed in there. As soon as I googled it and saw pictures like the first one, I was so relieved and pissed off at the same time.

 

[LC.]

At least you know everything there is to know about setting up a Zee mech now!

Hopefully you didn't cut your chain too short while it was bolted on wrong. Check your cage position in the biggest cog with your shock bottomed-out (take the air out to check).

 

[little_boo]

Just got this new beaut, holy fucking awesome.

 

[QuantumMechanic]

Picked up a new DH rig today. Can't wait to get out and ride it this weekend!

 

[Tinga]

Just got this new beaut, holy fucking awesome.

rebranding womens bikes. so hot right now.

 

[ThaLorax]

rebranding womens bikes. so hot right now.

Hahaha, the Yeti SB-5c I mentioned riding above was actually the "Betti" version, AKA it the only difference was marginally lighter wheels, the megenta paint color, and a women's' specific seat. They didn't have my size in the "men's" version, so I just pointed to the Betti and said, "yes you do. Lemme ride that".

 

[ReetsAdeets]

I recently purchased a 2013 Giant Glory frame without a shock that I'm going to build up with parts from my Devinci Ollie that has a broken frame. Anybody know if you can get different diameter pivot bolts for the lower pivot (the one that goes through the lower eyelet of the shock)? The current bolt is about 15mm in diameter, and I had a shock with the correct eye to eye and stroke length that I thought would work but the eyelet in the shock is too small in diameter to fit on the lower pivot bolt, even with the shims removed, so I am looking into different shocks and mounting hardware.

 

[FuckAllOfYou]

Picked up a new DH rig today. Can't wait to get out and ride it this weekend!

View attachment 777248

was the previous owner climbing on this thing or something?

 

[QuantumMechanic]

was the previous owner climbing on this thing or something?

Haha he was a taller guy but I'm not sure why he had the seat so far up. Definitely not the height I'll be riding at

 

[ThaLorax]

Picked up a new DH rig today. Can't wait to get out and ride it this weekend!

You live in Junction? Holler if you ever wanna ride that steed in Snowmass. Also, cut that damn seat wayyy down.

 

[QuantumMechanic]

You live in Junction? Holler if you ever wanna ride that steed in Snowmass. Also, cut that damn seat wayyy down.

Word on both accounts. That may be where I'm going this weekend but still not sure yet

 

[division.bell]

Any of you Seattle riders getting out for any riding tomorrow?

And finally, one picture of my 2016 Stumpy 29er.

 

[byubound]

Any of you Seattle riders getting out for any riding tomorrow?

And finally, one picture of my 2016 Stumpy 29er.

I'll probably ride tiger, duthie, or the ridge.

 

[JuliusJ]

Any of you Seattle riders getting out for any riding tomorrow?

And finally, one picture of my 2016 Stumpy 29er.

Dang, nice. Why'd you put a longer stem on it though?

 

[division.bell]

Dang, nice. Why'd you put a longer stem on it though?

It's the stock stem. The only thing I've changed so far was swapping the xl sip grips for the standard diameter sip grips.

 

[JuliusJ]

It's the stock stem. The only thing I've changed so far was swapping the xl sip grips for the standard diameter sip grips.

Oh, maybe just the picture then, sorry! That bike is sexy though

 

[division.bell]

Oh, maybe just the picture then, sorry! That bike is sexy though

No worries, it does look long in that picture...that what she said? If it wasn't one of the lightest stems on the market, I would definitely swap it out.

More trailside sexiness...

 

[byubound]

No worries, it does look long in that picture...that what she said? If it wasn't one of the lightest stems on the market, I would definitely swap it out.

More trailside sexiness...

How often do you actually use that swat cage thing? Seems pretty cool in concept.

 

[Brocka_Flocka]

I'm going 1x11. Any tips and or recommendations for a chain ring? Size, brand. ect? BTW im running some x7 cranks at the moment.

 

[byubound]

I'm going 1x11. Any tips and or recommendations for a chain ring? Size, brand. ect? BTW im running some x7 cranks at the moment.

I am currently running a blackspire snaggletooth. 32 tooth. Sheds mud really well, have yet to drop a chain. The 32 is lacking a little in the high end, but I suck at climbing and figured it was worth it for the gained low end range. Its not like you are usually pedaling when you're hauling either. 11 speed also gives you a smaller cog in the rear, so you won't loose as much high speed as I did.

 

[ShredAZ]

I am currently running a blackspire snaggletooth. 32 tooth. Sheds mud really well, have yet to drop a chain. The 32 is lacking a little in the high end, but I suck at climbing and figured it was worth it for the gained low end range. Its not like you are usually pedaling when you're hauling either. 11 speed also gives you a smaller cog in the rear, so you won't loose as much high speed as I did.

What's the appeal of the 11 speed?

You're really not gaining that much by jumping up an extra cog.

Your lowest will still probably be 36 (unless you go up on, wolftooth, etc.) and your highest will be 11 - same range as a 10 speed.

You will get one extra midrange gear for a helluva lot more expense...

 

[byubound]

What's the appeal of the 11 speed?

You're really not gaining that much by jumping up an extra cog.

Your lowest will still probably be 36 (unless you go up on, wolftooth, etc.) and your highest will be 11 - same range as a 10 speed.

You will get one extra midrange gear for a helluva lot more expense...

11 speed cassettes have a 42 tooth top gear, which is the same as a oneup etc. On the sram systems with the xd driver, you also gain a 10 tooth gear, which you cant get on a normal cassette body. Basically you gain more high and low range and get closer to matching that of a 2x10 system. The 11 speed system is also optimized for a single ring front, while a 10 speed derailleur is designed to also account for a front mech. This makes it shift a little smoother. Is it worth it? Personally, I don't think it is yet. However, it is not just gaining an extra midrange gear.

 

[ShredAZ]

11 speed cassettes have a 42 tooth top gear, which is the same as a oneup etc. On the sram systems with the xd driver, you also gain a 10 tooth gear, which you cant get on a normal cassette body. Basically you gain more high and low range and get closer to matching that of a 2x10 system. The 11 speed system is also optimized for a single ring front, while a 10 speed derailleur is designed to also account for a front mech. This makes it shift a little smoother. Is it worth it? Personally, I don't think it is yet. However, it is not just gaining an extra midrange gear.

You can also get a 10-42 10 speed cassette!

The typical 11 speed cassettes are still 11-32/11-36 unless you're willing to shell out an arm and a leg.

You don't have too many affordable options for rear mech/shifter either.

I think the tech is cool, and maybe it will catch on once it's become more affordable.

For the time being, I, like yourself, can't warrant the expense. There hasn't been much that my 1x10 couldn't conquer (11/36 w/ 32 front). Just makes you a stronger rider!

Now if you were comparing a 9 speed to an 11 speed, the gains are huge. 10 to 11, I just don't see it.

 

[byubound]

You can also get a 10-42 10 speed cassette!

The typical 11 speed cassettes are still 11-32/11-36 unless you're willing to shell out an arm and a leg.

You don't have too many affordable options for rear mech/shifter either.

I think the tech is cool, and maybe it will catch on once it's become more affordable.

For the time being, I, like yourself, can't warrant the expense. There hasn't been much that my 1x10 couldn't conquer (11/36 w/ 32 front). Just makes you a stronger rider!

Now if you were comparing a 9 speed to an 11 speed, the gains are huge. 10 to 11, I just don't see it.

I am 90% sure you cannot get a stock 10spd cassette with a 10 tooth rear cog. You can get to 42 teeth, but only with a wide range mod like oneup.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/cassettes/mtb-cassettes?f=4294963609

Here is every 11 speed cassette chain reaction offers. Every Sram one goes down to 10 tooth (only possible with xd driver), and all of them go up to at least 40 tooth, stock. Not sure what made you think that a typical 11 spd is exactly the same as a stock 10 spd.