Official mountain biking thread

13087933:.MASSHOLE. said:
^Sweet looking bike.


I imagine many of you have seen this video, but I have a vizsla and she used to do this in her younger years (12 now) with my dad.

that dog is awesome. iv done this with my golden and she has actually surprised me by how fast she can get going haha
 
13087935:.FRY. said:
I'm going to high land tomorrow. what trails would you guys suggest?

All of them. Highland is the shit and is the smoothest bike park in your area compared to attatash and sunday river.

Rode downhill all day and started to step up in riding. Having difficulty with this off axis hairpin turn with roots the size of Marlyn Monroe's thighs throughout the whole corner.
 
13086184:B-runge said:
Why would you want a fatbike?

For my personal situation I see so much opportunity for one in the winter. If my buddies are busy and can't go skiing I'll take the fatbike for a rip. If the city has done a shit job of snow removal and cleanup, I don't mind because everything is now relevant mountain bike terrain. I also pack on the pounds in the winter as skiing is currently my only 'excercise' and a fatbike would be an amazing way to keep the fat off. It's a great way to keep the legs spinning through winter as well, so you're still in condition come the summer riding season.

So there's that and about 5000 other reasons I can think of when it comes to your question.
 
13092614:Homo_Habilis said:
http://reno.craigslist.org/bik/4611692792.html

So I've been looking at bikes for awhile and this popped on craigslist today. Its the Giant Yukon FX, anyone know anything about it? The reviews i read made it sound like a more entry level bike due to the componets being a little low grade?

there is a certain build quality that certain bike should be at to ride the terrain they appear to be built for. the Yukon is not up to snuff. it looks like it could be a decent trail bike but it's just not. the suntour front and rear shocks are the cheapest shocks and are really only meant for "leisure xc" only. I would shy away especially at $500 the bike itself brand new is like $800
 
13087933:.MASSHOLE. said:
^Sweet looking bike.


I imagine many of you have seen this video, but I have a vizsla and she used to do this in her younger years (12 now) with my dad.

That dog scrubs like a boss
 
13092968:Homo_Habilis said:
thanks for the feedback. Im very green in the world of mountain biking so i appreciate the help. i was starting to lean away from it after reading up on it

If that's what you're looking at and you're new to mountain biking, save up some more and find a used Giant Trance. Like from 2006-2010. You should be able to find a Trance for those years for around $1,000. Especially the older ones with 4" of travel. I had one of the older ones with 4" of travel. Such a fun, playful bike that climbed like a beast. Or get a solid hardtail bike.
 
13092995:ThaLorax said:
If that's what you're looking at and you're new to mountain biking, save up some more and find a used Giant Trance. Like from 2006-2010. You should be able to find a Trance for those years for around $1,000. Especially the older ones with 4" of travel. I had one of the older ones with 4" of travel. Such a fun, playful bike that climbed like a beast. Or get a solid hardtail bike.

I should have listened to you when you posted this same thing for me like 4 years ago, haha. The bike I got that that point just broke from schralping it too much on non-xc trails. Now I'm super into mountain biking and know that I want a bike with 160 or 170 of travel that I can pedal uphill and abuse on the down.
 
13093276:B-runge said:
I should have listened to you when you posted this same thing for me like 4 years ago, haha. The bike I got that that point just broke from schralping it too much on non-xc trails. Now I'm super into mountain biking and know that I want a bike with 160 or 170 of travel that I can pedal uphill and abuse on the down.

Hey, it got you into the sport though right?
 
Fuck, slash 8, or remedy 9?

Has anyone here rode the slash?

Is it do able for climbing? I have no access to lifts
 
13093501:-MK- said:
Fuck, slash 8, or remedy 9?

Has anyone here rode the slash?

Is it do able for climbing? I have no access to lifts

My friend has the slash and fucking loves it. Climbs really well for how big it is.
 
13093501:-MK- said:
Fuck, slash 8, or remedy 9?

Has anyone here rode the slash?

Is it do able for climbing? I have no access to lifts

for what kind of riding? ultimately both can cover pretty much the same ground, you just have to decide if you are looking for more down (slash) or up (remedy).
 
13093908:*cgski* said:
anyone bike around/ in Bozeman? Headed out there for school, looking to do some riding for sure.

Tons of biking. Big sky has a bike park as well as a couple of xc trails. The xc trails go into moonlight as well.

I know bozeman has some trails just not sure on the detail on them. I primaraly ride a dh and when i do ride a xc i ride it like a dh. Not the best peadler.
 
How much would a decent (used) bike cost? I've been riding my shitty specialized hardrock for like 8 years and it needs so much work, I think it's better to just replace and upgrade instead of trying to keep it alive. Plus I want to get back into mountain biking and want to do it right with decent gear

Is sub 1000 fine for a decent used bike or am I looking at 1000 minimum? Also build one or buy a complete?
 
13094386:Blake.P said:
How much would a decent (used) bike cost? I've been riding my shitty specialized hardrock for like 8 years and it needs so much work, I think it's better to just replace and upgrade instead of trying to keep it alive. Plus I want to get back into mountain biking and want to do it right with decent gear

Is sub 1000 fine for a decent used bike or am I looking at 1000 minimum? Also build one or buy a complete?

buy complete, build would cost upwards of 3k pretty easily. id say you can get a very solid mountain bike for between 1k-1500. depends if you want full suspension or not.
 
13094386:Blake.P said:
How much would a decent (used) bike cost? I've been riding my shitty specialized hardrock for like 8 years and it needs so much work, I think it's better to just replace and upgrade instead of trying to keep it alive. Plus I want to get back into mountain biking and want to do it right with decent gear

Is sub 1000 fine for a decent used bike or am I looking at 1000 minimum? Also build one or buy a complete?

What's your skill level? What type of riding will you be doing? Do you want full suspension or a hardtail? How often will you be riding?
 
13094507:Backyard.Skier said:
Joyride today!

stoked.

I can't wait. I'm heading down to get my spot soon. I have been watching practice over th last few days and can confirm you are going to see some epic riding if practice is anything to go by. Watch for antony, rheeder an tommy g. They have been throwin down in practice.
 
The Greg Watts fall yesterday was gnarly. Glad he was able to throw the double thumbs up for the crowd while being carted off.
 
13094567:ThaLorax said:
What's your skill level? What type of riding will you be doing? Do you want full suspension or a hardtail? How often will you be riding?

I'm not great at mountain biking anymore, mostly because I haven't gone in a long time (managed to go a few times this summer but haven't gone in a few years before that. However I used to be decent (jumps up to 15', drops up to about 8' or so). However, I'm sure it will come back to me decently fast if I go more and I am ridiculously comfortable on my bike. I'm going to be in colorado next summer so I'll have a ton more opportunities to go.

Mostly trail riding and some smaller jumps and drops, but mostly just looking for a good all around bike. Full suspension is a must, I'm tired of my hard tail and am good on it
 
13094597:Blake.P said:
I'm not great at mountain biking anymore, mostly because I haven't gone in a long time (managed to go a few times this summer but haven't gone in a few years before that. However I used to be decent (jumps up to 15', drops up to about 8' or so). However, I'm sure it will come back to me decently fast if I go more and I am ridiculously comfortable on my bike. I'm going to be in colorado next summer so I'll have a ton more opportunities to go.

Mostly trail riding and some smaller jumps and drops, but mostly just looking for a good all around bike. Full suspension is a must, I'm tired of my hard tail and am good on it

Keep your eye on Colorado craigslist, and you definitely could find a bike on pinkbike for that, its just buying used online is iffy.
 
13094597:Blake.P said:
I'm not great at mountain biking anymore, mostly because I haven't gone in a long time (managed to go a few times this summer but haven't gone in a few years before that. However I used to be decent (jumps up to 15', drops up to about 8' or so). However, I'm sure it will come back to me decently fast if I go more and I am ridiculously comfortable on my bike. I'm going to be in colorado next summer so I'll have a ton more opportunities to go.

Mostly trail riding and some smaller jumps and drops, but mostly just looking for a good all around bike. Full suspension is a must, I'm tired of my hard tail and am good on it

Save up $1500 and peruse both craigslist and pinkbike's "all mountain/xc" section. As long as you're not having an issue like me where most smalls are still to big for me, you'll find something good at that price range.
 
Did some work to the bike today to get it into solid riding shape. Swapped the stock grips for some ESI foamys, removed the big chainring so it's now a 2x10 setup with a bashguard which should help make some of the huge logs out my way easier to clear, new SRAM chain to replace the old one, and then some new Bontrager XR3's in a 2.20 to replace the balding stock tires. Gave the frame a nice wash and wax to.

I think I've only posted a stock photo before, so here it is after tonight, just took a real shitty picture at the shop. Lighting is WAY off, so it kind of looks like a big black silhouette.

723695.jpeg
 
Anyone know how to get stripped bolts out? Removed front brake, however the bolts for the disc have seized and are being stubborn
 
13095078:*N_Wist* said:
Anyone know how to get stripped bolts out? Removed front brake, however the bolts for the disc have seized and are being stubborn

How bad are they stripped? Is the proper sized allen key spinning to the point where you can't apply any good kind of pressure to it?

If the heads are completely toast you may need to try to force a larger key in there, or some kind of torx bit. If not, you might have to try grinding a slot in the head with a thin cutoff wheel, then use a big assed straight blade screw driver. And if that doesn't fly, then you'll probably have to grind the heads clean off (do that carefully) then use vice-grips to grab the portions of protruding thread to wheel the bolts out.

To help loosen the bolts I'd try to get some WD-40 or another penetrating oil onto the bolts overnight, being careful not to spray it onto the braking surface of your disk. Then when it comes time take a heat gun to the bolt area on the disk, don't get it screaming hot, but you want it somewhat warm. Then try to loosen them off.

If anyone has some better advice though, I'd definitely take theirs. Aha, mine might be leaning heavily towards a 'desperate times call for desperate measure' approach of doing things.
 
I biked at Deer Valley for the first time today. It was awesome.


inb4 you guys tell me I suck, I don't care, it was my second time ever downhill mountain biking (fourth if riding up then back down a few kilometers without lifts counts, but that was just one short run each of the two times so whatever).
 
13095083:NinetyFour said:
How bad are they stripped? Is the proper sized allen key spinning to the point where you can't apply any good kind of pressure to it?

If the heads are completely toast you may need to try to force a larger key in there, or some kind of torx bit. If not, you might have to try grinding a slot in the head with a thin cutoff wheel, then use a big assed straight blade screw driver. And if that doesn't fly, then you'll probably have to grind the heads clean off (do that carefully) then use vice-grips to grab the portions of protruding thread to wheel the bolts out.

To help loosen the bolts I'd try to get some WD-40 or another penetrating oil onto the bolts overnight, being careful not to spray it onto the braking surface of your disk. Then when it comes time take a heat gun to the bolt area on the disk, don't get it screaming hot, but you want it somewhat warm. Then try to loosen them off.

Pretty good advice actually. I'm across the country right now, but will try that when I get home. They're actually philips head screws which are a pain in the ass. I'm probably going to attempt the small cut off wheel option
 
13095078:*N_Wist* said:
Anyone know how to get stripped bolts out? Removed front brake, however the bolts for the disc have seized and are being stubborn

13095626:*N_Wist* said:
Pretty good advice actually. I'm across the country right now, but will try that when I get home. They're actually philips head screws which are a pain in the ass. I'm probably going to attempt the small cut off wheel option

Just to confirm, the screws holding the disc brake rotor to your front hub are seized, and have a phillips head? I've never seen phillips head screws on front hubs; allen and torx yes, but not phillips.

I'd try penetrating oil and let that soak, keeping it way from the rotor, and any other brake parts for certain. I wouldn't personally use a cutoff wheel, or try to cut the heads off the bolts as options, but that's just me. I've had good luck using a flathead screwdriver or different sized allen wrench in combination with a rubber mallet to get enough traction to remove screws in the past.

After exhausting all options with hand tools my worst case scenario would be to drill out the screw head, or to run to the local hardware store to purchase a screw and bit extractor set, but in my experience rather than creating threads to allow the tool to extract the screw, they just chew through the bolt head and you end up drilling through the screw head anyways. I recently went through this exact process when removing the stuck bolts that had been rusted in place for several years on my ski rack. I stripped the first bolt on the first attempt with the correct sized allen wrench. Drilling the bolts out only took 5 minutes for all 4 bolts after I stopped fucking around with the extractor set.
 
I've never seen Philips heads on a rotor either. Dealing with Philips hardware at my day job though, we use valve grinding compound on the end of a fresh screwdriver bit to really grip the screw. The compound is like a greasy gritty mix and it helps a lot, definitely want to avoid getting it on the braking surface of your rotor though.

Other then that try wedging some other bits in there like Division.Bell suggested. And if that fails, drilling the heads is probably better than grinding; it will get you to the same end result, just in a more precise and safe manner.
 
13095697:division.bell said:
Just to confirm, the screws holding the disc brake rotor to your front hub are seized, and have a phillips head? I've never seen phillips head screws on front hubs; allen and torx yes, but not phillips.

I'd try penetrating oil and let that soak, keeping it way from the rotor, and any other brake parts for certain. I wouldn't personally use a cutoff wheel, or try to cut the heads off the bolts as options, but that's just me. I've had good luck using a flathead screwdriver or different sized allen wrench in combination with a rubber mallet to get enough traction to remove screws in the past.

After exhausting all options with hand tools my worst case scenario would be to drill out the screw head, or to run to the local hardware store to purchase a screw and bit extractor set, but in my experience rather than creating threads to allow the tool to extract the screw, they just chew through the bolt head and you end up drilling through the screw head anyways. I recently went through this exact process when removing the stuck bolts that had been rusted in place for several years on my ski rack. I stripped the first bolt on the first attempt with the correct sized allen wrench. Drilling the bolts out only took 5 minutes for all 4 bolts after I stopped fucking around with the extractor set.

13095727:NinetyFour said:
I've never seen Philips heads on a rotor either. Dealing with Philips hardware at my day job though, we use valve grinding compound on the end of a fresh screwdriver bit to really grip the screw. The compound is like a greasy gritty mix and it helps a lot, definitely want to avoid getting it on the braking surface of your rotor though.

Other then that try wedging some other bits in there like Division.Bell suggested. And if that fails, drilling the heads is probably better than grinding; it will get you to the same end result, just in a more precise and safe manner.

Ya its strange, I've never seen it either, but it came from the factory that way. I should also explain that this is on my DJ bike so the whole front brake is gone, completely off the bike. Just the rotor remains. +K for the solid advice though.
 
13095742:*N_Wist* said:
Ya its strange, I've never seen it either, but it came from the factory that way. I should also explain that this is on my DJ bike so the whole front brake is gone, completely off the bike. Just the rotor remains. +K for the solid advice though.

Once you get the current screws out, go find a higher quality replacement at your local hardware shop with a normal bolt head (allen or torx). Just in case you ever decide to run a front brake, or if you decide to sell your front brake/wheel/bike or whatever, it's good to have the correct bolts laying around.

Good luck to however you manage to get the screws out.
 
got worked at the enduro race over the weekend. nice bruise on my forehead, arms, back, legs and everywhere else. I guess hauling ass into foreign rock gardens isnt the best race strategy.

10418858_10152657866557139_3959328498814542869_n.jpg
 
I've only made it out twice this year, I don't own a MTB so the only times I get to ride XC are when I come home. Hopefully going to get my own bike next spring.

10383971_10152692916326214_8329773796391317061_n.jpg


This was before we missed a crucial cutback, having to ride a 5-6km section of very technical XC in the dark sucks. Our group would forget something as simple as lights.
 
724216.jpeg

My baby, looking to eventually upgrade to a bit more burly of a bike but can handle xc and enough freeriding. Recently got a dropper and it is a fucking game changer haha.
 
13086157:NinetyFour said:
Good to know. Hopefully the X1 setup rides just as nicely, as it is equipped on this bad mofo:

2015-trek-farley-8-fat-bike-1-600x450.jpg


HEAVILY considering ordering one. That bike goes above and beyond what I'm looking for in a fatbike and I've got the funds for one...

So I heavily laid out my wallet and ordered a Farley 8. I rode last years model in a 17.5" frame and it was a pretty nice ride, quicker handling than Surly's Pug and Moonlander, Norco's Bigfoot, and Charge's Cooker Maxi. I wish I could have had the chance to ride a Salsa Beargrease or Specialized Fatboy, but there weren't any locally.

I had also considered building something, but by the time I get a frame and a Bluto fork I'm nearing 1/2 the price of a pre-built. Still needing a drive train, wheels, tires, brakes, and a cockpit setup on top of that would land me way above what I want to spend.

It should be here in a month... So two because I bought something from the bike industry. As long as it's here for when the ground gets too slick for the Cobia, then I'll be happy.
 
Just moved out to Park City Utah and would love to go shred with some people. Just checked out the trailside bike park yesterday and bobsled in Salt Lake a few days ago, both super awesome trails. Definitely need some practice and some people to shred with. Anyone have any recommendations of other trails to check out, currently I'm living in my truck so I have some free time to go ride.
 
Brought my hardtail single speed out to college with me. Kinda regret not bringing full suspension, but this baby rips.

tumblr_naximoKqOI1qdtuxco1_1280.jpg
 
13107328:immas said:
Brought my hardtail single speed out to college with me. Kinda regret not bringing full suspension, but this baby rips.

tumblr_naximoKqOI1qdtuxco1_1280.jpg

Short frame, massive seatpost. Pardon my ignorance, but why?
 
13107372:*CUMMINGS* said:
Short frame, massive seatpost. Pardon my ignorance, but why?

It's stuck at the moment. I tried to pull it out to cut the post down, but it jammed almost out and now I can't fix it. Ha.
 
13107375:immas said:
It's stuck at the moment. I tried to pull it out to cut the post down, but it jammed almost out and now I can't fix it. Ha.

My hardtail is like that (except it's not stuck). Fun on the downhill, but sucks uphill with that short frame.
 
13107425:ThaLorax said:
My hardtail is like that (except it's not stuck). Fun on the downhill, but sucks uphill with that short frame.

Yeah, I usual ride with it long for the downhill but it's currently a bit too high for my likes.
 
immas, if your frame is steel a trick i heard to remove the seat post is to heat the seat tube up. because the metals expand at different rates. never tried it though so proceed at your own risk.
 
13107427:immas said:
Yeah, I usual ride with it long for the downhill but it's currently a bit too high for my likes.

Take it to a shop. Riding with the seat too high is really bad for your kneez and makes the downhill suck.
 
My bike is currently in a box, taking it on a plane today. Anyone ever done this? I'm kind of worried I mean I've seen what they do to luggage so I hope my rotors show up not bent in half.
 
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