Magnus edges?

Shoey-Ski

Active member
Sup ns, long story short I got an edge crack on my On3p magnus yesterday after riding them for ~15days, I've never had edge cracks on any of my previous skis because I always detune my skis and take care of my edges, so this is pretty strange, since the skis have such thick edges, is there anything else I can do to prevent more from occurring ? They are already detained but I'm open to suggestions
 
topic:Shoey-Ski said:
Sup ns, long story short I got an edge crack on my On3p magnus yesterday after riding them for ~15days, I've never had edge cracks on any of my previous skis because I always detune my skis and take care of my edges, so this is pretty strange, since the skis have such thick edges, is there anything else I can do to prevent more from occurring ? They are already detained but I'm open to suggestions

I Had two edge cracks on my filthys with in 15 days of riding them. They lasted about 25 days of skiing total. My kartels have been used for three years and they only have 1 edge crack. just keep your eyes on it and try and keep it on the foot that slides in back on rails. The inside edge of your lead foot gets worn down the most
 
its a little late now for my tip but i belt sand then file then gummy stone underfoot before using them, then file and gummy again after the first time to stop them from being burred and that "squished" effect. and again if they need it after a couple more days till they are nice and buttery. i find it helps them last way better and even though they are more dull they remain more square and stopped from being actually rounded or compacted which i believe leads to edge cracks.

then i just sharpen them once my edges are to dull and i want them crisp for jumping and repeat the process, its obviously easier working at a ski shop but i only have 2 minor edge cracks after about 75 days, and im really hard on my skis.

to your point that you never had edge cracks before, its most likely you have gotten better and started hitting bigger features with harder impacts and going faster which will obviously be harder on your skis
 
Think edge cracks and ripping out is kind of a luck of the draw thing. My filthy riches lasted about 15 days without an edge crack and then for some time before i ended up cutting the edge out because it started ripping out down the whole ski. I religiously took a gummy stone to them after every day of riding to get rid of burs. Now my sidewall is blowing out. My line skis which everyone says are the least durable skis held up just as well if not better and i treated them like shit and had a lot more days on them.
 
Just some tips on edges.

1) Detune with a file. Heavily. If all you are doing in gummi-ing, you are not detuning enough. When we detune team skis, we heavily detune the ski +/- the mounting mark about 20cm in each direction. We first do a 45 degree angle, then blend the edge with 30 degree and 60 degree passes, with some round over passes to make everything as rounded as possible.

95% of the people that tell me they detune their skis and then send us a photo of an edge crack have not detuned nearly enough. A gummi is not sufficient.

2) The enemy of edge cracks is water. Cracks are one thing. Not sealing cracks is another. I've got employees on year 4+ on the same park skis they got when they interned here and still going strong.

Cracks are primarily impact related, not wear related, so they can happen day 1. Metal to thinner metal, regardless of how you cut it, is a losing battle long term and eventually cracks will form.

If you get edge cracks, seal them with a bit of two part epoxy and a c-clamp. Keep the water out. Edges pulling out in mass occur when water gets in the cracks and freezes, expands, melts, freezes, expands, melts, over and over and over. Keep the water out and the skis will last. That is true of any ski. If you get an edge crack and leave it, you're just letting your investment breakdown.

3) At minimum, swap your skis. In about 3/4 of the edge complaints we get, 3 edges are 100% good to go. 1 edge is blown. Why? Sliding same direction and not swapping skis. I'm not here to tell people to slide both ways. I cannot dictate skill, though sliding both ways helps a lot. At the very least, swap your skis to double the life of your edges. Sliding both ways will increase it even further.

Lastly, on our skis. If you have edge damage, we fix it for free to the best of our ability. Send the skis to us, we fix them for free, and return them. I think it is obviously best that people have the knowledge to maintain their own skis, but in the case they get past that point, we're happy to fix them and get your skis back to you.

Hope that helps.
 
13800807:iggyskier said:
Just some tips on edges.

1) Detune with a file. Heavily. If all you are doing in gummi-ing, you are not detuning enough. When we detune team skis, we heavily detune the ski +/- the mounting mark about 20cm in each direction. We first do a 45 degree angle, then blend the edge with 30 degree and 60 degree passes, with some round over passes to make everything as rounded as possible.

95% of the people that tell me they detune their skis and then send us a photo of an edge crack have not detuned nearly enough. A gummi is not sufficient.

2) The enemy of edge cracks is water. Cracks are one thing. Not sealing cracks is another. I've got employees on year 4+ on the same park skis they got when they interned here and still going strong.

Cracks are primarily impact related, not wear related, so they can happen day 1. Metal to thinner metal, regardless of how you cut it, is a losing battle long term and eventually cracks will form.

If you get edge cracks, seal them with a bit of two part epoxy and a c-clamp. Keep the water out. Edges pulling out in mass occur when water gets in the cracks and freezes, expands, melts, freezes, expands, melts, over and over and over. Keep the water out and the skis will last. That is true of any ski. If you get an edge crack and leave it, you're just letting your investment breakdown.

3) At minimum, swap your skis. In about 3/4 of the edge complaints we get, 3 edges are 100% good to go. 1 edge is blown. Why? Sliding same direction and not swapping skis. I'm not here to tell people to slide both ways. I cannot dictate skill, though sliding both ways helps a lot. At the very least, swap your skis to double the life of your edges. Sliding both ways will increase it even further.

Lastly, on our skis. If you have edge damage, we fix it for free to the best of our ability. Send the skis to us, we fix them for free, and return them. I think it is obviously best that people have the knowledge to maintain their own skis, but in the case they get past that point, we're happy to fix them and get your skis back to you.

Hope that helps.

Just got my second edge crack on Sunday :( I had my shop detune them when they were mounted, and I also followed up with a gummy stone, I always get rid of burrs on the edges with a gummy stone too, i guess I'll just have to invest in a metal file and do them more heavily , also thank you for the tip on the epoxy!
 
13800383:M.M said:
its a little late now for my tip but i belt sand then file then gummy stone underfoot before using them, then file and gummy again after the first time to stop them from being burred and that "squished" effect. and again if they need it after a couple more days till they are nice and buttery. i find it helps them last way better and even though they are more dull they remain more square and stopped from being actually rounded or compacted which i believe leads to edge cracks.

then i just sharpen them once my edges are to dull and i want them crisp for jumping and repeat the process, its obviously easier working at a ski shop but i only have 2 minor edge cracks after about 75 days, and im really hard on my skis.

to your point that you never had edge cracks before, its most likely you have gotten better and started hitting bigger features with harder impacts and going faster which will obviously be harder on your skis

Complete waste of your edges to belt than file than gummy stone then basically do it again. You could litterary just gummy a bit and naturally ski off the rest
 
13800807:iggyskier said:
Just some tips on edges.

If you get edge cracks, seal them with a bit of two part epoxy and a c-clamp. Keep the water out. Edges pulling out in mass occur when water gets in the cracks and freezes, expands, melts, freezes, expands, melts, over and over and over. Keep the water out and the skis will last. That is true of any ski. If you get an edge crack and leave it, you're just letting your investment breakdown.

How do you seal an edge crack with epoxy? This is a bit confusing to me as there is more or less no space between a cracked edge before it starts to pull out. Where does the epoxy go?
 
Your going to get edge cracks no matter what, and it doesn’t matter unless the edge starts coming out. Minor Edge cracks shouldn’t affect your skiing
 
13874731:Crispy. said:
How do you seal an edge crack with epoxy? This is a bit confusing to me as there is more or less no space between a cracked edge before it starts to pull out. Where does the epoxy go?

If it's just an edge crack and nothing has moved you will likely need like 1 drop of epoxy.
 
13874731:Crispy. said:
How do you seal an edge crack with epoxy? This is a bit confusing to me as there is more or less no space between a cracked edge before it starts to pull out. Where does the epoxy go?

In my experience if there is space between the edge and the crack you can lightly pry it open and get epoxy farther into the ski. Using a hair dryer on the epoxy will make it have a more of a watery consistency. Then just clamp the skis between two pieces of woof. If its just a hair line crack your gonna have to ski it more until the edge starts to separate farther from the ski.
 
13800807:iggyskier said:
When we detune team skis, we heavily detune the ski +/- the mounting mark about 20cm in each direction.

Do you do anything special beyond that 40cm range around the mounting mark? Or just gummi stone everything else?
 
13876225:s-hand said:
Do you do anything special beyond that 40cm range around the mounting mark? Or just gummi stone everything else?

So our skis are already detuned from tip/tail to contact point and also gummied tip to tail after...so you are set on our skis. These are done with actual production setups with motor-driven grinding wheels. Generally, though, it is the areas you are actually hitting rails that you are worrying about. As long as the rest of the ski is properly detuned and gummied for normally skiing, you are set.

Generally, as a company, we all prefer skis with more detuned/gummied edges.

I did take some photos of some customer skis I have been fixing that I will post up soon for those with questions.
 
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