Hellbent core shot

imarookie

imarookie

Member
whats up guys...so i was skiing at snowbird today, and i think i might have hit a couple rocks or logs or something....but anyways i am pretty sure i have a core shot on my base and i was wondering what to do about it hahah. can i just get a candle of p-tex and melt it on there? here are some pictures hopefully this works. anyways thanks for the help +karma
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rough it up a bit and layer in some P-TEX. if that fails which it most likely will after a week of riding you might want to try epoxy first with a crosshatch pattern then ptex over it as it usually holds the ptex a lot better. If you dont want to mess with it take it to a legit shop and they'll baseweld it for you. but that costs money, haha.
personally i would put down a thin layer of epoxy just where the core is exposed and put little x marks in it before its completely cured then layer ptex over that. i have had the best success with that method.
 
Is this what you would consider the "crosshatch method" or whatever..

just wonderin for the future.
 
Go to a ski shop, and they will cut out a semi-circle of base from the edge out, and replace it will another semi circle of base. It's easy I have done it before working in ski shops.
 
^This..

Its not just about the dark part, there are cracks around it in your base material, that is weakend due to the impact.. a shop can cut out the whole area and replace it.. best thing to do..
 
be sure to whittle the tip of the p-Tex down to a point and let it burn for a few seconds before putting it in the core shot it will help stay in better.

good luck

how's snowbird by the way?
 
fact of the matter is for you to take it to a shop and get it base welded (cut out a small piece of base and replace it with a single piece of ptex) will take a good bit of work and probably cost about 30-40 bucks at least. If you know someone at the shop or its a private shop you might be able to get it done for a 6er. never hurts to ask, but i do love having friends that work in ski shops.
once again, its a pretty small shot. personally i would epoxy it then ptex it solely based on the fact that it would be free for me to do and will probably last around 15-20 days before needing touched up. if you ski somewhere that hitting rocks happens somewhat frequently this is the quickest and cheapest fix for small dings like these.
 
Snowbird was sick! There was about 6 inches of new snow but there are still some rocks exposed. They opened up little cloud though so a lot of the mountain is open now. So in reply to the last post.... I've p-texed some stuff before but how exactly would you recommend epoxying it and ptexing it? what brands do you recommend etc? anything would be useful. thanks man
 
any general slow setting 2 part liquid epoxy should be fine. you can just get it at a hardware store. what you want to do is put a thin layer over the exposed core. this seals the core of the ski so even if the ptex falls out the core doesnt get exposed to any snow/water. as the epoxy begins to set up take a razor and kind of cross hatch the surface to roughen it up to give the ptex something to hold onto. after the epoxy completely cures you can then drip in the ptex. (i use the black toko) i found that using a butane torch to light the candle really cuts down on any carbon forming which may weaken the fill. put the ptex in using layers letting each "coat" solidify untill it is still warm and goey but not liquid and definitely not entirely solid before putting on another coat. if you put it all in at once it will crack up and fall out much quicker. build up the ptex untill its above the base of the ski then with the last layer take a steel scraper and press it into the ski. if you layered the ptex waiting just enough time in between each layer the bottom will still be soft and goey and pushing it in really helps it hold. then just scrape off the excess with a really sharp lexan scraper or steel scraper, brush it, buff it, wax, and ski.
the biggest part to getting a good ptex fill is layering it while its in that goey stage. dont let it cool all the way but dont let it just pool up in a big puddle.
 
ive been using marine epoxy for years. ensure the ski is fully dry when you put the epoxy on and let it set for 24 hours. works like a dream and costs way less than a ski shop.
 
hey sorry for the dumb bump, but i was wondering if any of you knew if p-tex was poisonous. i was ptexing tonight in my apartment, and i noticed that it had a lot of fumes. i have always ptexed outside so i wasnt sure if it was a problem or not. anybody know?
 
it is melting plastic so if you were doing it in a closet or somethign then i might be worried. If not just open a window and you'll be all good
 
i have done so much worse to my park skis. like 6 inch long core shots. i just take an exacto-knife and cut off all little bits hanging off so it is one smooth cut, i sand it down so the edges of the gourge are smooth, along with the core, and just drip p-tex into the hole. it occasionally needs to be touched up, but it works fine

for deeper holes, make sure to do the p-tex in levels, but put it on before the previous is completely hardened. drip it in to fill it a little bit, let it cool a little bit so it is solid/not molten, and drip more in. it takes a bit more time but it works better and lasts longer
 
The biggest problem I've had doing it myself is that its pretty likely to fall out. Then you redo it, and then it falls out, then you redo it, and falls out again and then you say fuck this i'm tired of fixing this same core shot 15 times and ski with fucked up skis for the rest of the year. so don't do that.
 
hahaha yeah ive done several repair jobs on it myself, but it would fall out eventually. i took some epoxy and dripped it in there, let it sit for a bit, and i have filled it a couple times with ptex. sometimes it stays for a decent amount of time, but youre right it has fallen out alot and i have skied on it with just a gaping hole for hte last couple days. i think i am oging to try and cut the epoxy a little bit so the ptex will grab better.
 
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