Heat Molding?

So I just got a new pair of full tilts, and I want to heat mold them, can anyone help me out with how to? I don't want to ruin my liners doing something stupid. Please helpppp lol
 
Unless you know you have problems just break them in naturally; they'll last longer.
 
Op this is why we have gear talk. You won't get these responses there for the future. In terms of home methods there are a few but with intuitions I would say take them to a shop. You will want toe caps when you mold and I would hope you have footbeds for the boots too. There are a few techniques the shop can use to fit the liner better. You could always just wear them in but then there is no real point havin a nice mouldable liner. And in terms of them wearing out faster if you mould them yes they will but only by about 3-5 days the same time it takes to bed them in so don't worry about that. So overall take your boots off to a good fitter and have them do the work for you.
 
Full Tilts are really meant for 'heat moulding' per se.. The liners are to an extent, though with regards to the shell its not a simple as putting it in the over. Im not sure about your local shop but Ive worked in one the past few seasons and our policy is not to do any shell stretches (heat gun and hydraulic piston) unless they have been ski'd in for at least a couple of days. Once you stretch the shell theres no going back and if you ask them to stretch a particular part without having ski'd them you can end up making too much space which isnt what you want.
 
Fuck heat molding. The two pairs of boots I've had heat molded, weren't fucking ideal. Then the one pair I picked up for like $200 at the Boulder ski deals tent sale that didn't get heat molded-- ended up being my favorite ones. I paid like almost $600 for some new FT's last year cause I was fed up with having days ruined cause of shin bang so I thought I'd give them a try. They fit great and felt really comfortable. Then I had them heat molded with toe caps and all.

I went skiing for like 3 hours maybe and I couldn't bare it and just got drunk while my friends kept skiing. Hopefully they break in better, I just haven't gotten around to wearing them around the house all day. I still use those $200 salmons to this day
 
13139782:CoreyTrevor said:
Fuck heat molding. The two pairs of boots I've had heat molded, weren't fucking ideal. Then the one pair I picked up for like $200 at the Boulder ski deals tent sale that didn't get heat molded-- ended up being my favorite ones. I paid like almost $600 for some new FT's last year cause I was fed up with having days ruined cause of shin bang so I thought I'd give them a try. They fit great and felt really comfortable. Then I had them heat molded with toe caps and all.

I went skiing for like 3 hours maybe and I couldn't bare it and just got drunk while my friends kept skiing. Hopefully they break in better, I just haven't gotten around to wearing them around the house all day. I still use those $200 salmons to this day

Heat moulding won't make a boot not fit, a bald fitted boot will. Honestly if you were fitted, you got footbeds and your havin fit issues take them back to the shop which fitte them. They should hopefully work on them for you.
 
13139779:powabunga said:
Full Tilts are really meant for 'heat moulding' per se.. The liners are to an extent, though with regards to the shell its not a simple as putting it in the over. Im not sure about your local shop but Ive worked in one the past few seasons and our policy is not to do any shell stretches (heat gun and hydraulic piston) unless they have been ski'd in for at least a couple of days. Once you stretch the shell theres no going back and if you ask them to stretch a particular part without having ski'd them you can end up making too much space which isnt what you want.

Just wants to correct a couple f point here for others reading the thread. Stretching should only be done once there is a custom footbed made. It's fine to stretch before skiing. When you shell check that identifies the tight spots. I often starch before a customer even try's a boot on as it's easy to know where will require stretching. An in terms if no going back that is incorrect. The shell plastic has a memory so even if it has been stretched if the shell is reheated it will shrink back to almost the original shape. This is somthing I correct quite often. I often get customers who have had a boot stretched when really they just need realigning wit footbeds. Get the footbed right and quite often I remove the old stretch. But yeah just wanted to give you and others reading a little more info.
 
13139679:Boax said:
Unless you know you have problems just break them in naturally; they'll last longer.

I just torch them for 15 seconds. Get a bottle of pam, start spraying, light the stream on fire then spray the shit out of your boots for 15 seconds. The oil actually helps so they mold more easily. Seriously. Lubrication.
 
The shop you bought them from should have done it for you on the spot.

THIS IS ANOTHER REASON WHY YOU DON'T BUY BOOTS ONLINE
 
13139917:dozerr said:

The problem with this method is it onl warms the foam from the inside. There will not be sufficient heat to warm all the foam. The outer layer of foam moulds to the shell when done correctly to give a very good interaction between shell and liner. So you could try this method but really if you have got some decent liners and boots don t skimp and get them done righ in the shop.
 
Ok listen I'm not putting my boots in a damn oven.... or microwave. has anyone heard of the rice method? I know of it, just not the details. I've heard it works the best.
 
13140598:Babyback_jibs said:
Ok listen I'm not putting my boots in a damn oven.... or microwave. has anyone heard of the rice method? I know of it, just not the details. I've heard it works the best.

Someone posted a video of th rice method above but as I explained it won't fully mould the liners. You really will be best off just taking them to a shop. Do you have any footbeds yet? If not then it worth going to a shop any way to find out what level of surport you will require I the boots to get a good fit. You have hot some good custom fit boots take advantage of what boot fitters can offer to really make the boots work for you.
 
13140603:tomPietrowski said:
Someone posted a video of th rice method above but as I explained it won't fully mould the liners. You really will be best off just taking them to a shop. Do you have any footbeds yet? If not then it worth going to a shop any way to find out what level of surport you will require I the boots to get a good fit. You have hot some good custom fit boots take advantage of what boot fitters can offer to really make the boots work for you.

DONT DO THE RICE METHOD. It's stupid. If you are really that desperate to heat mold your boots and you can't get to a shop pull the liner out, remove footbed. put a hair dryer in there on high for about 7-10 minutes. Put it all back together. Put foot in and lock it down. This will work 1000x better than the microwave and Rice method.
 
13139782:CoreyTrevor said:
Fuck heat molding. The two pairs of boots I've had heat molded, weren't fucking ideal. Then the one pair I picked up for like $200 at the Boulder ski deals tent sale that didn't get heat molded-- ended up being my favorite ones. I paid like almost $600 for some new FT's last year cause I was fed up with having days ruined cause of shin bang so I thought I'd give them a try. They fit great and felt really comfortable. Then I had them heat molded with toe caps and all.

I went skiing for like 3 hours maybe and I couldn't bare it and just got drunk while my friends kept skiing. Hopefully they break in better, I just haven't gotten around to wearing them around the house all day. I still use those $200 salmons to this day

The only reason you get shin bang is for two reasons:

1. You are riding backseat and landing back seat a lot.

2. Your boots don't fit. Shinbang is mostly caused by having boots that are to big and it probably has nothing to do with the heat molding unless it was done really badly.

3 hours isn't nearly enough time to break in a boot. Whenever I get a new boots they're tight as shit and often they hurt for the first few days of skiing but after a couple days the liner has compacted out and they're a lot more comfortable.

You should do a shell check with your new FT's (and probably your Salomons) to actually make sure they are the right size. Take out the liner put your foot into the shell and slide your foot forward so your toes just barely touch the front of the boot. Measure the distance from your heel to the back of the boot. If you have more than 3cm the boots are to big and this is most likely why you are getting shin bang. If they are not to big are the space between the back of the boot to the heel is 1-2cm then just tough it out for a few days and let the liner compact. Also make sure you have custom footbeds they really do make a massive difference and reduce shin bang hugely.
 
HOLY SHT NEWSCHOOLERS overheatig me rn I think I'll just wear them to school and soccer and hike in them and go to chipotle in the so when it finally snows in freaking pa they'll be hot and heavy and molded as fuck #ThankyouAbyways
 
13141109:Babyback_jibs said:
HOLY SHT NEWSCHOOLERS overheatig me rn I think I'll just wear them to school and soccer and hike in them and go to chipotle in the so when it finally snows in freaking pa they'll be hot and heavy and molded as fuck #ThankyouAbyways

NOW YOU KNOW
 
Most shops will heat mold for free if you bought from them. Not sure about if you didn't. I went to one shop to get my boots molded after my friend just bought a pair their and they wanted to charge me $25. I walked right out of there.
 
13284565:daOyster said:
Most shops will heat mold for free if you bought from them. Not sure about if you didn't. I went to one shop to get my boots molded after my friend just bought a pair their and they wanted to charge me $25. I walked right out of there.

If you did not buy the boot from the shop expect $40-50. shops can charge what ever they like if you did not buy the boots from them. But from a shop and all the fitting you will need will be free.
 
Back
Top