Guide On: How to Buy Ski Boots

lyndon

lyndon

Active member
From the responses of my last two boot threads, its apparent you wanted it as a sticky. Now, just because I such a nice guy, I have made a final copy with pictures describing the process as best as I can. My apologies for making so many of these threads, but I feel its necessary for everyone to know how to properly buy boots in the absence of a professional fitter.

Over the past few weeks or so, I have noticed many threads on boots. "Which boots should I get?", "ZOMGZZZ new SPK's?", How do the Lange FR 120's feel?" and so forth.

I don’t really know how to say this, but we cant possibly recommend you a boot on the internet- however, you can assess and recommend your own boot. This may be a lot of writing, but, hopefully I cover everything. If anyone else has anything to add, please do so.

For a proper fit, you have to try on many different models and styles of boots. The SPK has a completely different fit than a Lange FR 120, as does a Krypton and a Scratch. You must try boots on to see what fits the shape of your foot. Your foot has many dimensions that have to be taken into account when trying them on, including length, width, height, and overall shape.

Keep in mind, if you’re a park skier, you may want to look into more park specific boots. Yet, you don’t NEED a park boot for park. Simon Dumont was riding some rec. boots for quite some time. THE FIT, FLEX, AND CLOSEUR SYSTEM ARE MORE IMPORTANT THAN WHAT THE BOOT IS DESCRIBED TO DO

When getting a boot fit, try to shop when there is no one else around. That will ensure the fitter's undivided attention is focused on you. Hey, even boot fitters get distracted sometimes too!

Some things to watch out for at a boot fitter are variant. If the fitter asks your shoe, you may want to leave. Your shoe size has nothing to do with boots.

If the fitter isn’t asking you about your skiing, you may want to leave. He/she needs to know what type of skiing you will be doing to effectively recommend a boot.

If you, for ANY reason feel that the fitter isn’t doing their job the best they can, don’t hesitate to leave. Your not being rude, your just looking for the best boot possible.

However, some people don’t have access to a boot fitter. If you CAN'T, here are some things to try.

Getting Started

1. Look at your foot, and get an idea of the shape.

For example, here is my foot. I have a moderately wide middle, narrow heel, and moderately wide toe area. So, I need a moderately wide boot.

picture007ge1.jpg


People with wider feet may have better luck with brands such as, but not limited to: Salomon, Rossignol, and Nordica.

People with narrower feet may have better luck with brands such as, but not limited to: Dalbello, Lange, and Atomic.

(note: different models have different fits. This is just a VERY general guideline.)

2. Fit

Socks

When trying on the boots at the shop, be sure to wear ski socks. Athletic sock, ankle socks, and dress socks are very different. If you don’t have a pair of ski socks, you should really consider in investing in a pair. I use BURTON snowboard socks, just so you know.

http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/1637/picture009jr4.jpg /img]

Do your own [b]Shell Fit[/b]. Remove the liner from the boot, and put your foot into the empty shell. Push your foot forward until your toes hit the end on the toe box. You should have about 1", to 1 1/2" between the back of your heel and the shell. If this is the case, the shell is generally the right size for you.

The boot should feel snug. Remember, that all boots will pack out, sometimes after a few runs. You can gain up to 1 cm or so in room after this occurs.

Remove the liner carefully. You can rip them if there is sharp plastic, or something of the sort in the boot.

[img]http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/92/picture013qd9.jpg

Here is my shell fit. I have exactly 1 inch.

picture014sq9.jpg


Never go by the manufactures sizing, or your shoe size. Simply use these as guidelines. A 27.5 Salomon Foil and a 27.5 Salomon SPK are different sizes. If I know you’re a size 9.5, I’m going to try on the 27.5, bust to see. Its not like, “There’s a 27.5, I’m buying it!”

picture010rn6.jpg


DON’T BUY YOUR BOOTS TOO BIG. THIS CAN CAUSE INJURY, AND RUIN YOUR FUN ON THE SLOPES!!

3. Put the boot on, with the liner in, and buckle it up. Get a feel for it by flexing it forward. Keep in mind the boot is going to feel substantially stiffere when your out riding in the cold. If you feel pressure points, you probably don’t want that specific boot.

picture003ni6.jpg


Some boots have a lot of adjustability. I’ve moved the instep buckle of my foils to the back position. This helps to keep my narrow heel locked into the heel cup, but pulling it downwards and back, much like a snowboard binding, or a Dalbello Krypton boot.

picture005mm1.jpg


4. Take your time!

Take your time! Take your time! Take your time! I can’t stress this enough! Patience is crucial in buying good fitting boots.

Buying boots isn’t an impulse purchase like a cute handbag or a trashy mini-skirt! A good analogy is dating. Your almost never marry your first girlfriend, and the same with boots. You need to go out with as many girls(boots) as you can, and then marry(purchase) the one that you love(fits) you best. There are plenty of great boots out there, so try on many, and you will find the perfect one!

Another way to improve your experience is to go shopping for boots alone. If your going with a friend/parent, your opinions can actually be swayed by their own. Also, try to leave the look of the boot out of your final decision. Its great to have a good looking boot, but if you are buying more for the looks, you will sacrifice comfort and performance.

Look for boots over the summer. This way, you wont feel any rush to buy them, and, in doing so, may come across another boot, or a better deal later on.

5. Price

Don't let the price of the boot intimidate you. Often, the more you spend, the better quality you are getting. Think of boots as an investment in your skiing, and your comfort on the hill. If you see boots that aren’t in your budget, try to get a deal on them, or buy the boots first, and buy your skis/bindings later. Your cant put a price on comfort! I paid 400$ for my Foils after the final fitting, and I couldn’t be happier with my purchase. I was only planning on spending 200$, but, I’m very glad I spent the extra money.

6. Comfort?

Too comfortable can be a problem. Too many folks look for boots that feel cozy, like a well-worn pair of bedroom slippers. The biggest mistake you can make is buying too big. Boots should fit snugly—like a firm handshake. But, when you ski as little as three runs, the boot will pack out. And, remember, you’re dealing with new, stiff pieces of foam, plastic and leather. It takes a while to break those materials in. If they feel a bit tight in the shop, keep them on for fifteen minutes and let them set into your foot.

7. Cuff

Never buy a boot without cuff adjustment. Practically every boot nowadays does, but just keep that in mind. Macro-Adjust buckles, power-straps, canting, and other cuff and tongue adjustability is great, but not something to be played around with, especially canting.

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8. Type of skier?

Think about what kind of skiing you plan to do. Typically, a park skier will want a boot more flexy and forgiving. Someone charging in the backcountry will want a stiffer, more responsive boot.

Flex Guide

These are only a guideline, remember, its all personal preference.

All companies flex indexes are different, and your personal preference varies, but here it goes.

Park- 70-85

All Mtn.- 80-95

BC- 90-110

Charging- 105-120

9. Shape of the boot.

When looking at boots, look for one that traces the same shape as you calf. People with a smaller calf will need a different shape than people with a wider calf. Some boots have adjustments that can be made to increase and decrease volume in this area. It is important that this is not too tight-you may loose circulation and have cold feet, yet it is important it is not too loose- the dreaded shin bang!

10. Final "Steps"

Be sure to try on BOTH boots. Your left foot may be different from your right foot, so be sure to try on both. I cant stress enough to TAKE YOUR TIME. Sit in the shop for 45 minutes with the boots on. I’m sure they wont care, unless the owner secretly hates you.

Liner

Be sure to wear your new boots around after you buy them to break them in. Some models have a heat-moldable liner. This allows for a more custom fit. A heat mold can be done at your shop. They heat the liner, then you put your boot on, buckle it tight, and just sit, and walk around for about 45 minutes.

For some boots that are higher quality, you can swap out various liners. I know you can do this with some Dalbello boots, switching out the stock liner for an ID liner. I can always get another Salomon liner from a boot using the same mold, but I’m content with mine.

picture001ea2.jpg


You can also invest in custom footbeds and orthotics. These are all fine tweaks you can do to improve the fit of your boots.

If you have any other questions, feel free to PM me and I'll try to help out as much as I can!

 
two things to add to this:

1. custom footbeds. if you're looking into any sort of decent performance boot and your feet are done growing, look into custom footbeds. let me put it this way. say the foil boot fits you pretty well. in that case, so does the x wave 8. in most cases, you'd be better off spending less on the x wave 8 and using the money you saved on a custom footbed than getting the foil boot with no custom footbed. a good footbed will fully support your foot and keep everything in place, which means your foot is more comfortable in the boot, the boot performs better because there are less voids in the boot, and ultimately, you ski better because of this.

2. summer is not necessarily the best time to buy boots. if you find something on a super killer deal, then yeah, go for it. but during the summer, you've been in flip flops or barefoot for a few months, which makes your feet gnarly. by october or november, once you've been back in normal shoes, sneakers, whatever for a while, your feet have recovered from the abuse of having absolutely no arch support while wearing sandals or being barefoot. this means that if a boot fits your foot in the summer, it might not fit quite as comfortably during the winter. generally its not a huge difference for most people, but it could make the boot you thought was perfect in august a bit of a pain come december.
 
Excellent guide. A+++ I'm buying new boots this season and will look forward to getting a good boot because of your guide. Thanks.

-aaron
 
i bought rossignol salto boots last year, and they're way too loose now, i have to max out all of the buckles and they're still not that tight

i race in them, but it feels like they're never forward enough

can i get custom footbeds/powerstrap to help?
 
A higher footbed may help, or even a new liner. Sounds like you bought them too big, and it became worse when the liner packed out.
 
Canting is the adjustment of a boot inwards or outwards. Lets say you have knock-knees, they adjust the canting so your standing flat on your skis. (Looking straight on at their shin) Insead of you boots being like this "|", they can adjust it sideways to be like this "/" or like this "\".

If i were you, I wouldnt mess around with it. Its something a pro-boot fitter needs to tackle.
 
I think I've had bad fitting boots for the last 2 years. I have a really narrow foot and I'm the old 2003 salomon 1080 boots. My feet have grown a little and when i do the shell test i have maybe half an inch to an inch of room. So I think my boots are too high volume and too short. When I crank the buckles all the way, its still sort of roomy.
 
Here's my addition:

1. Custom footbeds: these prevent your foot from pronating inwards and giving you a pain on your inside ankle bone. You don't wear orthotics? Doesn't matter. Shoes and ski boots are completely different. A properly constructed footbed will improve energy transfer from your foot to the boot making your turns much more efficient not to mention these will "lock" you in place in your boots giving you a superb fit!

2. Boot Flex: for park skiers, the type of fit and flex of the boot is really a matter of personal preference. I know the author of this thread recomended a flexible boot for park skiing but if you look at the big boys they're mainly rocking modified race boots. Lange, Atomic, Salomon, Dalbello and Technica all make excellent boots for park skiers with rubberized boot boards and built in booster straps to help absorb impact.

3. BOOSTER STRAP: fuck if you're doing any type of high end skiing whether it be park, racing or all mountain shredding, you'll be forever gratefull that you invested in these. Booster Straps replace the original power strap on your boots and give you something a little more forgiving that will absorb impact and keep the tongue of your boot right up against your shin helping to prevent shinbang.

4. Socks: I know the author was singing Burton's praises for their socks but I'm going to say "stay away from snowboard socks". The padding and fit are different from snowboard socks to ski socks because of where the pressure is distributed on the foot. For me, because I use a stiff freeride/race boot (Atomic X-130 or Lange Freeride 120) there is very little room in my boots for a sock. Because of this I use either a Ski-D or Talon sock for DeFeet. These are great because they have very minimal material but still keep you warm and comfy.

5. Shop Selection: definately one of the most important decisions you can make. I know most people here want that "core" shop or inexpensive place which is fine for your skis (hell, buy the skis online for all I care) but your boots you'll want to go somewhere highly reputable. This will more than likely mean going to a race shop. These guys know their shit! They've undoubted seen some of the ugliest feet out there and made them comfortable in boots.

That about does it for me!! Happy boot hunting!

 
Very true.

However,I did have a set of booster straps, adn they werent too much use. I couldnt replace my powerstraps on my Foils, so I just put them over the original power straps. Maybe thats why they didnt help too much?
 
that's exactly why the boosters didn't do anything for you. while replacing the power strap on salomon boots requires a little more work than say a lange boot, it is definately possible. by putting the straps over the originals, all you really did was maybe added tension to your calf.

when properly installed the booster will also help you rebound out of your turns. this is why most racers at the higher levels are using booster straps. im not sure about freeskiers because of the baggy clothing but i wouldn't doubt it

 
I didnt notice any allen key holes in the back of the cuff, or by the calf area. It has plugs. Maybe, the screws are under the plugs?
 
on the 1080 boot the powerstrap is held in place by a rivet that will need to be ground out. then a hole is put into the booster strap and new hardware in installed to keep the strap in place.

from my memory only race boots come with easily removeable hardware like that because this kind of work is extremely routine on race boots. some of the extremely high end freeride boots now have removeable hardware but that's essentially because they are simply modified race boots.

my best advice would be to take it to a shop and get bootfitter to install them for you. it honestly takes 15min or less if they know what they're doing so it shuldn't cost you more than $10

 
it doesnt cost a cent. The fitting process is so you buy the boot from the store your getting fitted at. Its customer service, not a product.
 
is there some sort of recommendation to go with whole sizes instead of half sizes since it's the same shell, but with more liner material? i thought i have heard that before.
 
Well, a higher footbed is what makes the difference between a 27 and 27.5, so I guess that would be correct.

I've never heard that, but it sounds right to me.

But in the end, get what fits, not what you think you should get. Go with fit.
 
pretty good guide id like to add a few things

the socks, dont use thick snowboard socks, thinner ski socks will allow you to have a better fit and actually keep your feet warmer.

1 1/2 inches of room behind your foot in the shell is also way to much room, it should be under an inch. When your foot is in the boot with the liner and your flexing your toes should just be touching the front of the boot.

walking around your house in your boots isnt a bad idea, but it wont help much. skiing is gonna but a much different stress on your foot.
 
LIES! I prefer a thicker sock. I like the added cushion. Its all preference for the socks, but I agree with most of the rest.
 
the difference between a 27 and a 27.5 will be the size of the liner. the liner in a 27 will 27 but the shell will be 27.5 (depending on the brand of course). the liner will simply stretch out eventually

 
What are some reputable skishops known for proper fitting? Would REI work....any places in MN or Denver that are truly above rest for boot fitting? I was in BigSky figuring I would find a good boot fitter but was really let down...
 
if you're looking for a good bootfitter in a ski town there's two sure fire ways to find a good one

1) ask a local! these guys know best as they'll hopefully point you in the direction of their fitter.

2) look for a shop that carries a lot of racing product! stores that are huge on racing are also huge on bootfitting. these guys will make your boots comfortable and if you're willing to pay for it, make your stance a lot more efficient.

hope that helps

 
This man knows what he's talking about! estabilished race-shops may not be too good for the newschool side of skiing, but thier expertise in this area is excellent!
 
One question...

What if your flat footed(no arch) and already have custom soles that you use in your shoes. Is it alright to put them into the boot or get the liner custom shaped?
 
^ drew do not put shoe orthotics into ski boots. Normally the shoe is longer than the ski boot so it will not fit properly. Also, a ski orthotic is not meant for changing a stride it is meant for stablizing a foot.

This leads to another point. Get orthotics made by a ski shop not a walking orthotic place. They do not know how skiing works and from my experience do not fit people well. Surefoot orthotics are real orthotics. Your parents can claim them on their medical (free), and when you out grow them you get new ones FREE. Custom cork superfeet are great if they are made correctly. make sure the person is experienced and they put your foot into "sub-talor neutral" while there is weight on your foot.

Good thread. Just a few more things to add.

Thread creator, your boots are too big. You said you have a moderately wide foot with a narrow heel. You purchased a very wide boot with a wide heel. You can see this in the fact that you have your buckles completely maxed out in that one photo. This means that there is so much excess room inside the shell that you have to flatten the boot to give you security. The buckles on your instep should barely change the shape of the boot (barely buckled down) to hold your foot in place. Try a narrower boot, with a narrower heel and a lower instep.

1.5 inches behind the heel in a shell check is too big. I would never go above 1 inch in a recreational fit. As a general rule (depends on your finger size lets say adult male), high performance fit > tight one finger fit to loose one finger fit. recreational fit > tight 2 finger fit to 2 fingers with breathing room.

With the upper 2 buckles and strap done up, in a relaxed stance, you should be able to feel the sock or your toe lightly brushing the front. when you flex into the boot, your toe should pull back.

If your boots fit too big you have to cinch the buckles down too much. This changes the shape of the shell (watch it when you tighten it) and creates pressure points as well as cutting off the blood flow to your toes (brrrr!). You will have to flex and strain your foot a lot to control your boot giving you lots of foots cramps and bad ski days. Your foot should be relaxed and you should have complete control.

When looking at flexes of boots, DO NOT GO BY THE FLEX INDEX! Not only is each company completely different. But models withing each company are completely different. SPK and FOIL are both 85...yeah right.

Do not stress about cuff adjsutment. One company put it on as an accessory and now everyone one does it to seem jsut as good. The reason someone would do a cuff alignment is because they are knock kneed or bow legged. The first way to solve this problem is getting orthotics. This will put your foot into the neutral position and correct the majority of this misalignment. If AFTER skiing you feel that it is harder to turn one way or get on a certain edge look at getting your canting done, by getting a sole grind. It is an expensive process, but only needs to be done if it is really a problem. So it will be worth the $. With a sole grind, the boot fitter will measure the angle that your legs lean when you stand. Do not trust them if they do this by only looking! Then taking a measurement will tell them what angle to grind into the bottom of your boots. This will lean your WHOLE leg into the correct position. They will have to make the din (toe and heel piece) on your boots correct after this process.

Socks are NOT preference. When buying socks for a snug fitting pair of boots, the thinnest is the best. You want to fit the boot to your foot, not your foot and a big wooly sock. A big sock and a tight boot will choke your foot. Smartwool has some really nice thin socks. Wear wool. It will keep your foot warm even when it is thin and wet. Wool also does not bunch up, resisting blisters. Only wear 1 pair of socks. 2 creates friction. Padded shins are a nice addition that doesnt affect fit.

Boosters are the shit. If you find them too soft, try a stiffer one, or when a traditional strap over top of it, but leave the traditional strap a little looser. This will stop the flex of the booster after a certain point.

When you put on your boots, do up the top 2 buckles and the power strap first, let your foot settle into the boot, flex it a few times and then do up the bottom buckles. This allows your foot to settle into the back of the boot (when yo uput them on your foot slides to the front).

Depending on the person, here are some things that can make your day better. try putting the power strap at the highest point on the tongue that it can go. Or try putting it under the plastic shell so it wraps snugly around the liner. Most boots have little cuts on the side of the plastic that allow you to do this. It is normal to have to unbuckle at least some buckles while you ride the chairlift. You can't keep your foot tightly gripped all day without cutting off some blood. Riding park isnt so strenous on your foot so you may not notice that.

Happy skiing

 
Wish I would have known all this last year! Not knowing what the hell i was doing and having a fitter that didnt really give a fuck, i pretty much threw away $450 on some dalbello kryptons. Also, I now have some permenant deformities on my feet that i will eventually have to get surgery on. I know ur probably saying "why the hell did u let it get that far?" well, when ur in colorado for a week competing in the open and that is your ONLY option because u thought everything would be fine, u ski untill u literally CANT ski anymore. shit, i couldnt even walk! After having an experience like that, I will never rush the process of buying the right boot again. Seriously, TAKE YOUR TIME! No matter how long it takes me this year, I will find the right boot. By the way, anyone want to buy some dalbello krypton 29.5s?
 
another thing that shops can do for you is to set the boot outside in the snow for a while, so you actually know how they fit and flex when cold. that makes a huge difference. also the flex of the boots changes a lot on the weight of the rider. this is a very good guide, but you can't stress enough that you need to try on the boot rather than only reading the reviews.
 
On Buckling for a 4 buckle boot:

First clip the lower of the top two buckles but do not clamp it down. Then flex forward into the boot. Now clamp down the buckle, then clamp the top buckle down as far as you can, now go back to the first buckle and tighten it. then back to the top and work your way down through all four buckles, all this time you should be flexing the boot forward. now tighten down the power/booster strap.
 
My addition.

All ski boots change year in and year out too.

Lange boots for example used to be wider and all, now they are medium last(width) at the most.

My nordica beast 10's from 2006 fit me perfect, but I try on the new ones and they feel all different. Sure, you might think "well, you're other ones are conformed to your foot now, so duhh" but no, they feel waay too wide in the midsection and dont grip my foot as well as when i first tried on the 2006 model.

The superchargers fit me funny too... so I dont know.

Still, at least they both fit me better than fucking Dalbellos...
 
These are only a guideline, remember, its all personal preference.

All companies flex indexes are different, and your personal preference varies, but here it goes.

thats some weirf flex

should be more like

Park- 100ish

All Mtn.- 110/20ish

BC- 120/30ish

Charging- 130 at least
 
you obviously don't know what you're talking about with regards to flex recomendations.

so you would recomend that an agressive park skier weighing 200 lbs and 6 feet tall be on a boot with a flex of 100? no! on the same note you don't put someone that's 5'6 150lbs in a boot with 130 flex unless they're racing world cup downhill.

flex is about preference, ability, agressiveness, weight and height!

 
Completely incorrect. Flex goes entirely by preference, weight, and ability. Like was said, you woont give a guy my size a 100 flex for park. 80 is more than suffice. Same as you wouldnt give a 200lb guy an 80 flex for park, he MAY like a stiffer boot. I like a softer boot.

There is a reason that I made this thread, because I have a pretty damn good idea as to what I'm talking about, and there is a reason you didnt-you obviously dont have the slightest clue of what you just said.
 
doooooope, i will deffinatly be using this guide this year when i get boots............i knew there was a reason that i come on this site!
 
So, i live in Wisconsin so there aren't really any good bootfitters around and last season i bought some Foils and after skiing on them for the season they weren't very comfortable. I'm going to play around with the boot a little bit and just try to get it set up right for this season. One thing i was wondering is if its possible to do the custom footbed at home.. cuz im really not sure if the place i bought them even knows that they have a custom footbed...
 
Sick thread. I wish I had know this type of thing back in '01 when I bought boots off the internet... That was the worst idea EVER.
 
^^ yeah its a tad big on me not much but definitly a little bit... i wish i had the money to just get new boots but im gonna try and make these go for this season.
 
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